Hi!

I've had a battery leak on my MPU board a while ago. I went through the whole board with vinegar, then cleaned it with distilled water. I bought a remote battery holder and soldered it on the board without removing the old one (as seen in many YouTube tutorial videos).

This solved the problem of my TOTAN killing the power to the playfield, mechanics and DMD after a while of playing temporarily. Now the game runs fine too. Back then with the battery leak, after the game would die and I would have to turn it off and on again it would restore factory settings and clear highscores and settings.

Now, whenever I turn the game on (after it's off normally, without any "game death") it resets back to factory settings (number of balls, free play, etc.) but keeps the highscores. I have never encountered anything like this.

Any suggestions?

4.76V from the remote holder.

I noticed that diagonstic LEDs 501, 203 are flashing, diagonistic LED 201 is off. I couldn't find what these indicate in the manual. Any help?

Ooooh ok ok ok discard 501, it's meant to flash.

Ok, crap, that's the correct LED signs from what I know... Any ideas?

Some other guy told me it's most likely a CMOS RAM issue, but could be other things. He said to measure the voltage on the 28th pin of the RAM chip. Is that the U8 IC on the MPU? Can someone quickly explain how to do it (locate pin 28 and how to get the multimeter on - I mean, one "stick" on the 28th pin and the other ... ?)?

Well it never really reset in the sense that it went on and off again. The machine would continue to hum and the translite lighting would still be on, only the DMD, PF GI and mechanisms went dead.

Pin 28 on the CMOS measured 4.75V, so I think it's alright. Just a while ago I booted up and it booted up to my settings. Problem just seemed to go away. Perhaps my TOTAN was putting on a delayed April Fools?

Thanks for the help anyway!

Replaced the 16 rectifier diodes, there's still a problem, but it's different.

After I soldered the new diodes on, I played a game with the translite off. The machine did it's act (GI off, DMD off, only humming), but it was different this time since it actually restarted ("factory settings restored" etc.) without flipping me having to flip the switch.

I was also able to see the diagnostic LEDs. 201 came on (no CPU board activity). Should I just buy a new MPU board then? The battery leak might have killed something, despite my best efforts to clean it.

Oh, and the test point Zero Cross (I have no idea what the hell that is) gives <5V, is that okay or not?

Checked the diodes on the power driver board and they were fine.

HOWEVER!!!!... now that we're talking LEDs. I noticed one odd thing when I got the game, I mean I passed it off as an LED problem since naturally they can go bad - the middle LED (they're numbered funny, I'm not sure which number it is, but it's the middle one) is VERY dim, like it's almost off. Is that indicative of anything? Diag LED dimness.