(Topic ID: 120548)

Bringing TZ Back From the Dead (restoration)

By seshpilot

9 years ago


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  • 60 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by PM_Jeremy
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There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
13
#1 9 years ago

I remember when the Twilight Zone pinball machine came out. It looked so cool brand new at my local Aladdin's Castle (Sandburg Mall in Galesburg, IL). I was around 13 or 14 and not a great pinball player. As such, I remember walking away after several games feeling like it was kind of boring. The Addams Family pin that sat right next to it certainly felt much more accessible.

Fast forward 21 years...

After having owned 10 pinball machines (including Addams Family--which I sold after only 4 months of ownership), I tried TZ again at PAPA 2014....

Mind blown. This game is incredible! How did I miss this?! I've got to pick one of these up!!

The only problem: TZ typically sells for what I consider a lot of money, which I didn't feel comfortable spending (part of the reason why I sold my TAF so quickly).

After much searching (around 12 months), I finally found a reimport from Italy that, while quite beat up and desperately needing some TLC, was within my price range (albeit just barely). This forum post will serve as my running documentation of bringing this particular Twilight Zone back from the dead.

1st, a caveat: I'm not HEP. I don't claim to be able to do the level of restorations that Chris does. Most of my non-pinball friends think the level of detail I spend working on my games is ridiculous; Pinsiders may very well be disappointed with that level. By all means, offer suggestions here (as I really love learning) but know that a) I'm not an expert, and b) I have limited pinball funds.

I absolutely love restoring both arcade video games and pinball machines, and feel like for each one I do, I get a little better.

#2 9 years ago

A quick once over of the game revealed a number of things:
1-the playfield was trashed. Definitely needed a replacement
2-the DMD wasn't fully working
3-the game played terrible, with many solenoids barely working
4-the cab looked pretty awful. Definitely needs a redo
5-the coin door needed to be replaced with a US one
6-all the parts were in fact there, including the ceramic Powerball
7-ramps, translite, and plastics seemed good
8-needed a new lockdown bar, both translite and playfield glass, a new speaker panel
9-this would be the biggest of my restores yet (though Whirlwind was probably quite close)

A few pics:
Bringing her home!!
IMG_1175.JPGIMG_1175.JPG

Right side (fade present, but not horrible)
IMG_1179.JPGIMG_1179.JPG

Left side (fade horrible)
IMG_1181.JPGIMG_1181.JPG

Here's how bad the fade is (notice the red circle where a bolt covers):
IMG_1221.JPGIMG_1221.JPG

IMG_1180.JPGIMG_1180.JPG

Notice the 2 wear spots (flippers and kickout hole). While I could probably cover up the flipper wear, that kickout hole wear is nasty. Playfield has to be replaced.
IMG_1182.JPGIMG_1182.JPG

#3 9 years ago

Off to start the work. First, I labelled all the backbox wires and then removed the circuit boards:
IMG_1211.JPGIMG_1211.JPG

Next, the backbox comes off:
IMG_1212.JPGIMG_1212.JPG

Then, the playfield comes out:
IMG_1213.JPGIMG_1213.JPG

Man, just looking at all the stuff on this playfield makes me realize the scope of this job. It's going to take me some time, which is okay because I need a winter project!

#4 9 years ago

Next, was sanding the inside of the cabinet. Here's a mid-point shot of the work:
IMG_1223.JPGIMG_1223.JPG

Then came the part I was fearing the most: removing the existing decals. To do the work, I researched both the sanding method as well as the heat gun method. Heat gun worked great for me. I bought a cheap Wagner heat gun from Lowe's ($25 total) which worked great. Removed the decals in about 5 hours total over the course of 2 days. The glue comes off pretty easy with soaking the wood with Goo Gone and using the heat gun/scraper method.

Next, I sanded down the cab with 60 grit using a random orbital sander. Then I filled in any chunks, gouges, or holes with Wood Filler. Finally, I hit it again with a 60 grit, then 120 grit.

Wiped down everything with a wet rag and a tack cloth to pick up any loose sawdust.

Tonight, I'm frustrated. I needed to spray paint the edges of the cab for the decals (you want to cut off just a touch on the edges so it doesn't peel back, and it's good to have black underneath). Unfortunately, I used a spray paint that I really hated. It dripped and doesn't look nearly like what I wanted. ARGH!!!

I'm going to let it dry tonight, take a break (I've been working on this thing all day), and sand down the drips in the morning. I'll take a look and see what I think after that. I might have to do it all over again, but I really want this to be right. I'm well aware that the more time you spend prepping the wood, the better the decals look when applied. I want a FLAT surface.
IMG_1239.JPGIMG_1239.JPGIMG_1240.JPGIMG_1240.JPG

EDIT: Having stopped to think, I probably should have just sprayed a side at a time with it flat. That would have stopped any drips. Still, the paint I bought is crap. I'll re-evaluate in the morning when I'm not so frustrated.

#5 9 years ago

Tonight I checked the paint. It's actually going to work. It's still not dry yet due to the cold but once it is, I'll sand one more time and move forward. Tonight I was able to do some board repair and put in a new battery compartment (lithium only).image.jpgimage.jpg

#6 9 years ago

Great thread! Paint may be crap, but cold temps will really make it hard for you no matter what paint you use. Do you have a way to even temporarily heat the garage? That will help too.

Keep up the good work! It's so much work, but so worth it!

#7 9 years ago

Starting your project a little late for winter

I like Painters Touch Semigloss Black on cabinets. Blends super well with original.

#8 9 years ago

Wow - your flying through it! Can't wait to see your final pics. Mind saying how much you picked it up for?

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Do you have a way to even temporarily heat the garage?

Yep! Just put a heater in there. Good call though. Going to move everything inside once the cab is finished (saw dust, glue fumes, spray paint flecks, etc).

#10 9 years ago

Looking for a "good shape" wide body lockdown bar. Cheapest I've found is $100 for new.

#11 9 years ago

Tonight, I sanded down the cab again and painted with good black paint. Looks and feels perfect now! Cab is ready for reassembly and decals. I also polished all metal pieces for the inside of the cab.
image.jpgimage.jpg

In other news, I fixed the sling bumpers on my Whirlwind (the plunger was mushroomed and needed replaced). Also happened to find a complete set of used plastics for WW that I'm going to sell here on Pinside to help finance this TZ restore!

#12 9 years ago

ouch, looks like it needs abit of TLC

#13 9 years ago

Nice going so far. Are you doing the decals dry?

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Nice going so far. Are you doing the decals dry?

Was planning on it. Doing just like "tattyadams" on YouTube instructs. Seems like he gets good results.

Buying a hand-picked Mirco playfield, new "next gen" decals, and brand new WPC coin door from fellow Pinsider "devlman" tomorrow!

#15 9 years ago

My first experience with TZ was also with an TAF next to it although I liked TZ better at the time. I like TAF more now but TZ still has that special feel. Resto looks good so far. It's always cool to see a neglected classic get needed attention.

#16 9 years ago

Keep up the good work! As a proud owner of a player condition TZ, I'm a avid follower! So dreamy

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Was planning on it. Doing just like "tattyadams" on YouTube instructs. Seems like he gets good results.
Buying a hand-picked Mirco playfield, new "next gen" decals, and brand new WPC coin door from fellow Pinsider "devlman" tomorrow!

I did the decals wet on mine and would not have done it any other way. The actual decal application was the most stressful part of the whole restoration process. But then again, I had never done it before.

#18 9 years ago

Selling my BOP to pay for the rest of the parts for TZ. Sad, but TZ is grail-level for me, and BOP is not. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-bride-of-pinbot-the-machine-indianapolis

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Was planning on it. Doing just like "tattyadams" on YouTube instructs. Seems like he gets good results.
Buying a hand-picked Mirco playfield, new "next gen" decals, and brand new WPC coin door from fellow Pinsider "devlman" tomorrow!

what are "next gen" decals then?

#20 9 years ago
Quoted from PinBiohazard:

what are "next gen" decals then?

Yes... I still don't know either.

#21 9 years ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

I bought a cheap Wagner heat gun from Lowe's ($25 total) which worked great. Removed the decals in about 5 hours

I remember those days. I hated removing decals .

#22 9 years ago

Lots of info out there on what "next gen" decals are. Still not screen printed but long story short: better vinyl (yes this makes a HUGE difference) and better print quality. I bought the Mr. Pinball ones similar to those on eBay.

#23 9 years ago

Installed the new decals last night with my beautiful bride (no, not Pinbot's wife, she's gone. My real wife)! Looks AMAZING.

Here's some pics of the backbox:
IMG_1316.JPGIMG_1316.JPGIMG_1318.JPGIMG_1318.JPGIMG_1319.JPGIMG_1319.JPGIMG_1320.JPGIMG_1320.JPG

#24 9 years ago

And a few of the cabinet:
IMG_1324.JPGIMG_1324.JPGIMG_1323.JPGIMG_1323.JPGIMG_1322.JPGIMG_1322.JPGIMG_1328.JPGIMG_1328.JPG

#25 9 years ago

Okay, for the record here's a fantastic YouTube video on how to remove and install decals. I've done 4 games now, and after watching this, I've gotten much better results!

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#26 9 years ago

Why do you paint the cabinet edges black ?

#27 9 years ago

Because you have to cut the decal back a few millimeters so that it doesn't catch and peel away when someone inevitably touches it. I've done this 4x now and cutting away the edges is the best method for a clean, sharp, and lasting look.

#28 9 years ago

Look what came in the mail!
IMG_1354.JPGIMG_1354.JPGIMG_1356.JPGIMG_1356.JPGIMG_1355.JPGIMG_1355.JPGIMG_1366.JPGIMG_1366.JPG

Looks absolutely beautiful! Thank you devlman. These are the most recent Mirco repros and were hand-selected at the Chicago Pinball Show.

#29 9 years ago

Also installed a new coin door. Slow but steady progress happening...
IMG_1370.JPGIMG_1370.JPG

#30 9 years ago

Did you get any grain raising on the wood putting on the decals? Looks great thus far

#31 9 years ago

Your Mirco playfields are definately better than mine! Mine are the ones where Santa and everything are pink, and the ceramic clear that I paid extra for is wavey in spots!

#32 9 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

Did you get any grain raising on the wood putting on the decals? Looks great thus far

I didn't. I am really proud of the work we did on these decals. I feel I've finally learned how to do this!

Quoted from johnwartjr:

Your Mirco playfields are definately better than mine! Mine are the ones where Santa and everything are pink, and the ceramic clear that I paid extra for is wavey in spots!

Thanks John. The original Mirco playfields were definitely not great. The quality control there has been WAY too lack (for instance, the FH playfields being too short, or how most of the shooter lanes are not accurately measured). That said, this is one fine playfield, and I'm grateful for it.

#33 9 years ago

Tonight was cleaning the wiring harness and backbox board. Installed wiring harness. Not a ton of fun, but progress...IMG_1385.JPGIMG_1385.JPGIMG_1386.JPGIMG_1386.JPG

#34 9 years ago

Interesting .. Is that the game's original cabinet?

I noticed your transformer board is different than mine. I didn't realize they changed during production.

#35 9 years ago

Wonderful thread and great work on the pin. Albeit I don't think you know how a "dead" pin looks like though, this one isn't that bad

Quick question - did you get an original playfield or is it a repro? Know any shops selling playfields?

#36 9 years ago

Awesome, keep it up! Question:

What is your thinking going for a early/proto playfield instead of a production one (assuming your game is a production model)? How does it impact value and desirability on a restored machine?

#37 9 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Wonderful thread and great work on the pin. Albeit I don't think you know how a "dead" pin looks like though, this one isn't that bad
Quick question - did you get an original playfield or is it a repro? Know any shops selling playfields?

If you were to have come over and played how awful the game played, you might have thought it was dead too. The replacement playfields are Mircos. You can find them on PlanetaryPinball.com, or go to a trade show and handpick one out yourself!

Quoted from Plumonium:

Awesome, keep it up! Question:
What is your thinking going for a early/proto playfield instead of a production one (assuming your game is a production model)? How does it impact value and desirability on a restored machine?

Well, being as I bought this apart of a deal from a fellow Pinsider, I didn't have a choice. This playfield has the 3 magnets drilled already which honestly, I could care less about. That said, I've got to do it now as there's a hole in the pf! From what I've seen, it does add a little bit to the overall value and desirability for the reseller, but the most important things are always going to be a) condition of cabinet, b) condition of playfield, c) hacks in the backbox, etc... Good luck!

#38 9 years ago

Looking great, man! Yeah, the pf is a real winner and I'm glad it's going to good use. If you need some 3rd magnet parts I should still have them .

#39 9 years ago
Quoted from devlman:

Looking great, man! Yeah, the pf is a real winner and I'm glad it's going to good use. If you need some 3rd magnet parts I should still have them .

I might take you up on that. Honestly I didn't really want to install the 3rd magnet but don't have a choice with this playfield!

#40 9 years ago

Image from last night (head back on and wires sans playfield):
image.jpgimage.jpg

#41 9 years ago

It's 2:48am. Tonight I started tearing the backside of the playfield apart. Did not think it would take 4.5 hours but well...image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

I'm going to bed now......

#42 9 years ago

I hope you remember where everything goes and took some pictures too.
It's easier to have a new playfield besides and put everything straight on.

I don't want to be negative, but the whole cost of the purchase, import from EU and restoration may cost you more than just buying a restored TZ in US. I hope you really enjoy restoring it

#43 9 years ago
Quoted from ALY:

I hope you remember where everything goes and took some pictures too.
It's easier to have a new playfield besides and put everything straight on.
I don't want to be negative, but the whole cost of the purchase, import from EU and restoration may cost you more than just buying a restored TZ in US. I hope you really enjoy restoring it

I did and this isn't my first rodeo. Also, this game will be 4x nicer than any non-restored US version and still costs me significantly less. Just gotta get hands dirty....and breathe in some toxic vapors when melting off the decals.

#44 9 years ago

Starting to put back the harness...
image.jpgimage.jpg
image.jpgimage.jpg

...and done!
image.jpgimage.jpg

#45 8 years ago

Got all the pieces torn off the old playfield and have loaded the new one into the cabinet...
Image.jpgImage.jpg

#46 8 years ago

just wondering did u clean the harness wires? cause would kinda be silly todo all this work and skip that, throw it in the bath and scrub her clean....

#47 8 years ago

Harnesses have been cleaned.

#48 8 years ago

looking good!

#49 8 years ago

yeah, even a clean "looking" harness will amaze you once you soak it in super clean and rinse it.
I have the same project going on currently, too!
TZ is my desert island pin and this is my 3rd one.

#50 8 years ago

Awesome to hear dgoett! Post some pics.

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