(Topic ID: 267345)

Bringing back to life an Eight Ball Deluxe

By matiou

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 84 days ago by ranman2001
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There are 192 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 4.
11
#1 4 years ago

So.... I bought this Eight Ball Deluxe pinball few months ago... Or at least what was left of it! The price was low. Very low. Some could find it was not low enough when looking at the machine... But come on, it's an EBD! and I always wanted an EBD...

I took care of 3 or 4 project machines in the past, but I never started with a machine in such a bad shape. It spent the last 15 years in a warehouse where water was dripping on its glass, slowly rolling into the lock bar, and getting out through one the front corners, along one of the legs. It obviously caused some pretty bad damage to the cabinet. The MPU is corroded like crazy, there is no backglass and the lamp board got deformed by humidity. The playfield is heavily used, but not water damaged.

Pic01 (resized).jpgPic01 (resized).jpg

Pic02 (resized).jpgPic02 (resized).jpg

I decided to take the challenge to bring this machine back to life. My approach won't be to "restore" it, but only to get it to a "playable" state (at least for now)... To qualify for this, the cabinet needs to be solid and clean, the machine needs to work and to look and smell good enough to be moved from the garage to the house This is likely going to take me months... The hard part will be to do all this without spending money like crazy, I would like to *try* not to spend $3,000 to end up with a $1,200 pin!

Even before starting working on it, I already bought some things (who never did that?). I found from a fellow pinsider an used backglass... Not in perfect shape, but will be OK for this machine.

If everything goes well, one day I may install a hardtop and stencil the cabinet. But this may be months from now (years?). As I said, my first focus will be to just... make it play!

Things purchased so far:
- Birch plywood 2ft x 4ft 3/4
- Plywood 2ft x 2ft 1/4
- 2x2 pine wood for corners
- Used backglass (Pinside)
- New black legs (Pinball Life)
- Leg bolts
- Leg levelers
- Metal bracket (Home Depot)
- Wide leg brackets (Pinball Life)
- Bally sticket for coin door (Pbresource)
- Misc metal screws (Home Depot)

#2 4 years ago

What a fun challenge! You've certainly got your work cut out for you on this one. I'm curious as to how you'll attack the cabinet repair....looking forward to seeing progress. Good luck!

#3 4 years ago

Holy cow! Does the lock down mechanism actually move? I can probably donate a used Lamp panel board for your back box if you pay shipping.

I bought a Bally Star Trek for parts a while ago. It was sitting under an open car port in Pennsylvania for a long time. Granted it wasn't as bad as this but all of the back glass art just fell odd in chunks into the cabinet. I cleaned up some connectors and it was playing in no time. So you never know!

#4 4 years ago

Start putting out ads on pinside for the items you need. Check Craigslist and facebook too (there are tons of pinball guys in houston, austin, and san antonio). Legs and playfield glass should be easy to acquire locally. I have recently seen some of the boards for it on ebay. If the houston expo comes back in November, you should be able to source a ton of items there.
Go to the "trade your plastics" forum on here if you need any, or you could always buy them new.

Your PF will be the toughest thing (if you are planning on improving it, that is). Your best bet is probably to just touch it up or have someone do it for you ( dc2010 may be interested, and he is in the san antonio area)

#5 4 years ago

Hell yes!
Love EBD, I would take this project on in a heartbeat.

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Holy cow! Does the lock down mechanism actually move?

Yes it does! Once I drilled the door's lock I managed to pull the lever and release the lockbar, of course it needed a bit of force. I was positively surprised to see that the inside was not "that" bad. The manual was even there, in a relatively good shape! Sadly, there was only one quarter in the coin box

Pic03 (resized).jpgPic03 (resized).jpgpic04 (resized).jpgpic04 (resized).jpg
#7 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I can probably donate a used Lamp panel board for your back box if you pay shipping.

That would be awesome! Mine is falling apart... Thanks!

#8 4 years ago

We sold a restored ebd for 5500 a few years back. New pf and cabinet stencils. Great game.

On your game i would pull the harness. Clean and repin all of the connectors.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

Yes it does! Once I drilled the door's lock I managed to pull the lever and release the lockbar, of course it needed a bit of force. I was positively surprised to see that the inside was not "that" bad. The manual was even there, in a relatively good shape! Sadly, there was only one quarter in the coin box [quoted image][quoted image]

I'm concerned about all of those inline fuse connectors, looks like tied into the GI's?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I'm concerned about all of those inline fuse connectors, looks like tied into the GI's?

I was surprised by these as well... it looks like there is one inline fuse per solenoid, see picture below... to protect the circuits when solenoids get stuck ?

Pic05 (resized).jpgPic05 (resized).jpg
#11 4 years ago

Not sure that cabinet is even salvageable. Might be easier to find a donor cabinet to use as a the base?

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

So.... I bought this Eight Ball Deluxe pinball few months ago... Or at least what was left of it! The price was low. Very low. Some could find it was not low enough when looking at the machine... But come on, it's an EBD! and I always wanted an EBD...
I took care of 3 or 4 project machines in the past, but I never started with a machine in such a bad shape. It spent the last 15 years in a warehouse where water was dripping on its glass, slowly rolling into the lock bar, and getting out through one the front corners, along one of the legs. It obviously caused some pretty bad damage to the cabinet. The MPU is corroded like crazy, there is no backglass and the lamp board got deformed by humidity. The playfield is heavily used, but not water damaged.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I decided to take the challenge to bring this machine back to life. My approach won't be to "restore" it, but only to get it to a "playable" state (at least for now)... To qualify for this, the cabinet needs to be solid and clean, the machine needs to work and to look and smell good enough to be moved from the garage to the house This is likely going to take me months... The hard part will be to do all this without spending money like crazy, I would like to *try* not to spend $3,000 to end up with a $1,200 pin!
Even before starting working on it, I already bought some things (who never did that?). I found from a fellow pinsider an used backglass... Not in perfect shape, but will be OK for this machine.
If everything goes well, one day I may install a hardtop and stencil the cabinet. But this may be months from now (years?). As I said, my first focus will be to just... make it play!

If you are looking to replace the apron, one just came up on pinside.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/95297

#13 4 years ago

EBD is my favorite pin in my game room. If I were you, I'd jump on getting a hardtop for it before they are all gone. Good luck. Will be following this.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

If you are looking to replace the apron, one just came up on pinside.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/95297

Thanks for thinking of me! Appreciated! However, it looks like it's an used apron on which was put a large sticker. I could do this on mine, it's not too damaged by rust. I would have bought it if it was a silkscreened one.

#15 4 years ago

The now empty lower cabinet... in all its glory
Pic06 (resized).jpgPic06 (resized).jpg

Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

Not sure that cabinet is even salvageable. Might be easier to find a donor cabinet to use as a the base?

You may be right.... One of the leg is definitely going to be hard to bolt on But I have to see the positive side of things... The other 3 corners are pretty strong!

For sure the front of the cabinet is dead, it won't be able to hold a coin door anymore... and the corner of the right side is gone too... but not much to lose trying to fix this (except my time!)

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

The now empty lower cabinet... in all its glory
[quoted image]

You may be right.... One of the leg is definitely going to be hard to bolt on But I have to see the positive side of things... The other 3 corners are pretty strong!
For sure the front of the cabinet is dead, it won't be able to hold a coin door anymore... and the corner of the right side is gone too... but not much to lose trying to fix this (except my time!)

Should be interesting

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

The now empty lower cabinet... in all its glory
[quoted image]

You may be right.... One of the leg is definitely going to be hard to bolt on But I have to see the positive side of things... The other 3 corners are pretty strong!
For sure the front of the cabinet is dead, it won't be able to hold a coin door anymore... and the corner of the right side is gone too... but not much to lose trying to fix this (except my time!)

Think i would definitely look for a donor cabinet. For as much work as that one will need, you'd be much better off with a different cabinet IMO

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Think i would definitely look for a donor cabinet. For as much work as that one will need, you'd be much better off with a different cabinet IMO

I'm going to do both... fix this cabinet... to be able to assemble the game and make progress on the whole machine. won't be pretty but will work and won't cost much.

In parallel, I'll look for a donor base cabinet. When I find one, I will take my time to prep, stencil and so on... To make a nice machine, without rushing things.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

I'm going to do both... fix this cabinet... to be able to assemble the game and make progress on the whole machine. won't be pretty but will work and won't cost much.
In parallel, I'll look for a donor base cabinet. When I find one, I will take my time to prep, stencil and so on... To make a nice machine, without rushing things.

Well good luck on your resto, it's a title well worth the time and money you put into IMO. Still love mine, and i'm on my 2nd EBD

#20 4 years ago

Now all the rotten wood is gone...
Pic07 (resized).jpgPic07 (resized).jpg
I need to build a full front panel and a piece of the side... and of course replace the bottom plank.

#21 4 years ago

Using a router pattern bit, I built a piece of plywood replicating exactly the missing part.
Pic08 (resized).jpgPic08 (resized).jpg

#22 4 years ago

I also cut a rectangle of plywood for the front panel...
Pic09 (resized).jpgPic09 (resized).jpg
Now I need to make all this tight and solid. It's going to be a mix of miter joints, pocket holes, strong wood glue and some reinforcement brackets... to be continued....

#23 4 years ago

Subscribed!

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

I also cut a rectangle of plywood for the front panel...
[quoted image]
Now I need to make all this tight and solid. It's going to be a mix of miter joints, pocket holes, strong wood glue and some reinforcement brackets... to be continued....

Do you have access to a table saw? You will need to cut miters for the corners. The right corner can be a standard 45 degree on each board since you are making new. But the left is going to be tricky because that one is a locking miter joint. You can still make it fit but you will have to make a notch on the new board to allow it to mate with the original side and then miter the new piece but only miter half way through. I attach a pic to help explain it better. Basically it's a standard 45 degree miter with a notch cut out of it.

It will be easier to cut the opening for the coin door and shooter rod before installing the front board. I would wait until it's assembled before drilling the coin door trim holes. You probably should mount the door trim on the pack and use the trim as templates for the new holes. With a table saw you can cut 2 x 2 poplar stock to made the corner braces(cleats) for the front corners and leg brackets. Use old pieces as templates. A biscuit joiner and wood glue would be ideal to mate the new right side to the original. Blend together with Bondo. As you probably noticed there weren't many nails holding the front of the cab together. Most of the cab strength comes from gluing the corner cleats at the corners. When I redo/restore a cab I reinforce the corners with thin stainless steel decking screws. 2 at the lower corners that will be hidden the legs and one near the top under the side rail.

The wood in the pics is a piece I had made at a local wood shop for a EBD rear panel. This is what needs to be done because of the way the Bally cabinet was made.

P5030096 (resized).JPGP5030096 (resized).JPGP5030098 (resized).JPGP5030098 (resized).JPGP5030099 (resized).JPGP5030099 (resized).JPG
#25 4 years ago

I wanted to add, if you don't have another Bally cabinet around, you can use the rear panel to get the best measurement for the front width since the original was so rotted.

#26 4 years ago

Thanks Lovef2k for all the information! Unfortunately no table saw here... But I have a circular saw which can do 45 degree angles, and a router... Should be good enough for the job.

I'm planning to do miter joints for both sides, I never tried this before, so I bought a miter router bit few weeks ago to try it out.
Pic10 (resized).pngPic10 (resized).png

To make things easier, I improvised a really simple custom router table (thanks youtube!):
IMG_20200405_114414 (resized).jpgIMG_20200405_114414 (resized).jpg

And I made some miter joints using scrap wood... It took a bit of time to adjust, but once set up, it worked great:
IMG_20200405_114940 (resized).jpgIMG_20200405_114940 (resized).jpg

Finally, once satisfied with the trial joints, I routed my new EBD plywood pieces:
IMG_20200405_155912 (resized).jpgIMG_20200405_155912 (resized).jpg

#27 4 years ago

And... I'm working on the coin door integration!

Pic14 (resized).jpgPic14 (resized).jpg
#28 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

And... I'm working on the coin door integration![quoted image]

Nice work! I see you have been planning ahead. I never thought of a router bit but looks more like the factory cut.

Don't forget the top groove for the glass channel and the hole for the carriage bolt.

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Don't forget the top groove for the glass channel

I forgot about this one! I guess I need to buy another router bit... a slot cutter. Or do you know any other clean way to drill such a slot ?

#30 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

I forgot about this one! I guess I need to buy another router bit... a slot cutter. Or do you know any other clean way to drill such a slot ?

Slot cutter bit. 3/32 I believe. ½ inch or more deep.
Or take the cheap way out by cutting the bottom of the glass channel flush. The side rail and glass should hold all in place since it's only 6 or 8 inches long?

#31 4 years ago

Drilling "pocket holes" to attach the two parts of plywood together...
Pic16 (resized).jpgPic16 (resized).jpg

Prepared to glue and screw in the 2 pieces...
Pic17 (resized).jpgPic17 (resized).jpg

Using my awesome router table to build the inside corners of the cabinet...
Pic18 (resized).jpgPic18 (resized).jpg

Here are the corners and other inside wooden parts. I modified a bit the original set up... and planned to add a custom metal bracket and some wide leg brackets... all this to tie everything together and reinforce the location where my cabinet is a bit weaker than normal (the side with the assembled plywood)
Pic19 (resized).jpgPic19 (resized).jpg

This cabinet will be on its 4 feet this week-end!

#32 4 years ago

This is one of the coolest repair jobs I have seen! Did you make some spreaders to hold the rest of the cabinet together while it's in this state?

Making it work.

#33 4 years ago

Assembling stuff at night... I like this picture

Pic20 (resized).jpgPic20 (resized).jpg
#34 4 years ago
Quoted from Waderade812:

This is one of the coolest repair jobs I have seen!

I like a lot your "looking old but playing fast" EBD playfield! I'm applying the same spirit to this cabinet

Quoted from Waderade812:

Did you make some spreaders to hold the rest of the cabinet together while it's in this state?

Yes! horizontal braces to hold sides in place. You can see one in the pic I just posted.

#35 4 years ago

I updated the first post with everything I purchased for this repair so far... And will update on a regular basis.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bringing-back-to-life-an-eight-ball-deluxe#post-5618590

#36 4 years ago

Drilling leg holes with a custom fixture, to make sure they are at 45 degrees, and spaced correctly.
pic21 (resized).jpgpic21 (resized).jpg

And finally... ready to be up on its legs:
pic22 (resized).jpgpic22 (resized).jpg

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

Drilling leg holes with a custom fixture, to make sure they are at 45 degrees, and spaced correctly.
[quoted image]
And finally... ready to be up on its legs:
[quoted image]

Damn impressive!

12
#38 4 years ago

Still a bit ugly and in need of a big clean up but solid!
Pic23 (resized).jpgPic23 (resized).jpg
Pic24 (resized).jpgPic24 (resized).jpg

#39 4 years ago

Wow....that's really nice work! And fast, too! I can't believe you fix that area so quickly and so well. Rest of the job oughta be a piece of cake.

#40 4 years ago

That is a great job on that cabinet, most people would have just trashed it. FYI, I have just ordered one of the miter router bits you used as I have a backbox I have to rebuild.

#41 4 years ago

Thank you @dasvis, @mathazar, @uphamj! Still a long road before I can hear "quit talking and start chalking"

Quoted from uphamj:

FYI, I have just ordered one of the miter router bits you used as I have a backbox I have to rebuild.

Cool! Some pieces of advice: Practice a lot on scrap wood before you do it on your final plywood. You can practice with any wood, but do it at least once with the same plywood, to get the "feel" of your wood going through the router bit (very different depending on the type of wood). Height and horizontal depth of the router bit have to be very precisely adjusted to get the 2 sides of the join to match well. If you don't have a template (I did not), use trial and error. Once you find the position that works, route a piece of wood you'll keep as a fixture to later reproduce the same exact position.

#42 4 years ago

Let's take a pause and leave the wood working aside for a little bit... Let's talk about backbox electronics...

First the MPU:
Well... not much to see here, we can move on right away I guess if you want to explain to someone the damage battery corrosion can do, this is a good picture!
Pic25 (resized).jpgPic25 (resized).jpg

Then the lamp driver:
Mmmm... this one got reworked in many spots... we'll see how it goes.
Pic26 (resized).jpgPic26 (resized).jpg

The solenoid driver:
Not that bad but... why are some transistors missing ??
Pic27 (resized).jpgPic27 (resized).jpg

Aux lamp driver:
Ok-ish... it looks like someone added a big ground connector... anyone familiar with such a mod ?
Pic29 (resized).jpgPic29 (resized).jpg

And the most important one (because hard to replace)... The Squawk and Talk!
I have big hopes for this one... And it looks good. I ordered already the replacement capacitor kit. Someone did a weird parallel capacitor hack.
Pic28 (resized).jpgPic28 (resized).jpg

#43 4 years ago

I knew from day one that my MPU was not usable.
I'm planning to go with a LISY35 from @bontango. This is a little project on its own! We'll see how it goes.

#44 4 years ago

Quick Sunday night update...

This week-end I emptied the backbox and inventoried all its parts.
It is not perfect.. but in better shape than the lower cabinet... and... filthy!
Pic30 (resized).jpgPic30 (resized).jpg
Some planking and damages on one side...
Pic31 (resized).jpgPic31 (resized).jpg
The lamp board is the worse, completely water damaged at the bottom...
Pic32 (resized).jpgPic32 (resized).jpg
The harness got the dishwasher treatment... it recovered its colors! and Ican touch it without getting my hands dirty and greasy!
Pic33 (resized).jpgPic33 (resized).jpg
And finally... Sunday night activity... Shotgun replacement of the Squawk and Talk capacitors... hoping it makes it work!

Pic34 (resized).jpgPic34 (resized).jpg
#45 4 years ago
Quoted from matiou:

The harness got the dishwasher treatment

What was your cleaning ingredient?

#46 4 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

What was your cleaning ingredient?

Regular detergent... read more here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-playfield-harnesses-vids-guide

#47 4 years ago

The lamp panel is due in tomorrow. I guess you you started the game to know that the S&T isn't working or is just assumed not working?

#48 4 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The lamp panel is due in tomorrow. I guess you you started the game to know that the S&T isn't working or is just assumed not working?

I "bench tested" it... unfortunately the capacitor replacement did not help... I still get a locked on led I'm not really surprised, but I had ordered the capacitors, so I guess I had to install them

Thanks again for the lamp panel! And I ordered new light baffles, as suggested.

#49 4 years ago

Look what I got in the mail today! Thank you SO much Lovef2k !
Pic35 (resized).jpgPic35 (resized).jpg
A bit of sanding and a light coat of white paint will make it like new!

#50 4 years ago

Good karma, @lovef2k! Keep those EBD's alive!!! Just laid down my new EBD hardtop this afternoon. Dremel trimming/adjustment starts tonight, should be starting to rebuild the playfield with new and cleaned bits this weekend. Perhaps will get to the cabinet interior freshening up next weekend!

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