Holy cow! Does the lock down mechanism actually move? I can probably donate a used Lamp panel board for your back box if you pay shipping.

I bought a Bally Star Trek for parts a while ago. It was sitting under an open car port in Pennsylvania for a long time. Granted it wasn't as bad as this but all of the back glass art just fell odd in chunks into the cabinet. I cleaned up some connectors and it was playing in no time. So you never know!

I'm concerned about all of those inline fuse connectors, looks like tied into the GI's?

Do you have access to a table saw? You will need to cut miters for the corners. The right corner can be a standard 45 degree on each board since you are making new. But the left is going to be tricky because that one is a locking miter joint. You can still make it fit but you will have to make a notch on the new board to allow it to mate with the original side and then miter the new piece but only miter half way through. I attach a pic to help explain it better. Basically it's a standard 45 degree miter with a notch cut out of it.

It will be easier to cut the opening for the coin door and shooter rod before installing the front board. I would wait until it's assembled before drilling the coin door trim holes. You probably should mount the door trim on the pack and use the trim as templates for the new holes. With a table saw you can cut 2 x 2 poplar stock to made the corner braces(cleats) for the front corners and leg brackets. Use old pieces as templates. A biscuit joiner and wood glue would be ideal to mate the new right side to the original. Blend together with Bondo. As you probably noticed there weren't many nails holding the front of the cab together. Most of the cab strength comes from gluing the corner cleats at the corners. When I redo/restore a cab I reinforce the corners with thin stainless steel decking screws. 2 at the lower corners that will be hidden the legs and one near the top under the side rail.

The wood in the pics is a piece I had made at a local wood shop for a EBD rear panel. This is what needs to be done because of the way the Bally cabinet was made.

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I wanted to add, if you don't have another Bally cabinet around, you can use the rear panel to get the best measurement for the front width since the original was so rotted.

Nice work! I see you have been planning ahead. I never thought of a router bit but looks more like the factory cut.

Don't forget the top groove for the glass channel and the hole for the carriage bolt.

Slot cutter bit. 3/32 I believe. ½ inch or more deep.
Or take the cheap way out by cutting the bottom of the glass channel flush. The side rail and glass should hold all in place since it's only 6 or 8 inches long?

The lamp panel is due in tomorrow. I guess you you started the game to know that the S&T isn't working or is just assumed not working?

Good ol' UPS comes thru again! I would get new trace wire for the lamps and use the old board as a guide to install.

Also check pinwiki for the s&t issues. They may have a trouble shooting guide for that board and what the boot flashes represent.

Jeff from Pinball Pimp will most likely make a partial stencil set just for the front.

Painting the cab can be a pain. I have had mixed results with different paints going on plywood. In the future I'm going to try using a primer sealer before paint.

I still don't see a hole for the shooter

Yup!

b\\

Haha yes. Not to break b*lls, but it would have been much easier to do before the assembly and paint. But you are doing great work and you had one heck of a challenge when you started, I think most would have sourced another cab and transferred the parts over.

Now you can see how bad the original panel was sheesh!

Did you reflow the header pins? Might help.

That's not wear by the pistols, that's straight up damage. Sucks when people do that. I had a Seawitch once that had similar damage.
The correct screw for the flipper mounts is a #8 X 1/2 hex head screw. The same as the drop target banks, slings etc.

FYI, some things under the pf have a smaller screw such as the saucer eject and some switch mounting brackets. That should be a #6 x 7/16 hex head.

If you need screws lmk.

And yes, September was a blur for me as well.

You must have some killer dish soap!

I like Evaporust.

Ahh I missed the steel wool you posted.

It's fairly common to see stripped screws or holes on the sling shot main body for the coil stops. I'm pretty sure Marco has replacement mounts for these.

Please explain the coil noise...humming, buzzing, chatteringm machine gunning??

Pretty cool. Can you give me some deets on this Lisy board please? I see you have the optional sound card. So does the speaker wire go directly to it? Their website and ordering process was confusing for me. I didn't see any pricing. I did see one version has IC's labeled displays, solenoid/lamps and switches. Why, is this board running everything or just as the MPU? I'm also curious about the sound and speech reproduction, does it sound original? Does it have separate volume for speech and sound as original S&T? How long did it take to receive? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to see if it's worth it.