(Topic ID: 291724)

Bringing back a 1963 Big Deal

By Peruman

3 years ago


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  • 36 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Boatcat
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

I’m going to document the process of bringing back a 1963 Big Deal that was part of a “shed find”. When I got the game home, it was filthy and had a mice nest right at the top of the playfield, covering the arch. Luckily none of the artwork at the top of the playfield got damaged.

Upon setup, the game turned on and started a game but scoring and lights were all not working. All the steppers in the game were seized. As were the scoring reels. After resetting everything by hand, I was able to sort of play a game.

At that point, the tear down and cleanup started.

Below are photos of the game from when I first set it up in the shop.

Alberto

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#2 3 years ago

Lots of nice gals on that playfield....love those 1960s Williams. Looks pretty clean inside, what are your plans for the cabinet?

Do you have an intact lock bar? I had the caps on Heat Wave rechromed.

#3 3 years ago

Nice. That has to be one the earliest pins with drop targets I would think.

#4 3 years ago

I got lucky that the mice stayed mostly on top of the playfield. There is some rust on all the mechs, that will be cleaned.

The lock bar has not been cleaned yet. The end caps could use being rechromed but I’m not sure how I will take them off. They are riveted in place. Any tricks?

Alberto

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#5 3 years ago

I looked up info on IPDB and it did not mention the history of the drop targets. It would be cool if it was one of the first. The drops all work, but the artwork is shot.

I’m going to try and recreate it. I’ve sent a few PMs to Pinsiders that own Big Deal, hoping to get a photo of the decals.

Alberto

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#6 3 years ago

Check the parts manual it may have the artwork in there. I know the Heat Wave target is shown.

My caps must have had the rivets ground off, then a threaded insert was used to attach.

They are pot metal and got beat up pretty badly. At least yours are intact.

The bar is stainless and can be sanded and polished.

See here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-chroming-lockdown-bar-end-caps

#7 3 years ago

dr_nybble

Found the targets on the Williams parts catalog! Another Pinsider sent me the link. Now I can recreate them. Thank you!

I’m not sure about the cabinet yet. Overall it’s not in bad shape, except for the front around the coin door. I’ll see how it looks after a good cleaning. At most, I’ll patch and airbrush the green and orange parts.

I’ll get to the cabinet once I sort out all the rusty bits. The coin door is a tetanus shot waiting to happen.

Alberto

#8 3 years ago

Looking forward to watching your progress.
You have to drill out the rivets. After chroming, reattach with JB weld.

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#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Mikala:

Looking forward to watching your progress.
You have to drill out the rivets. After chroming, reattach with JB weld.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mikala

That looks really good! You only had the end caps re-chromed, correct?

Did you use a local vendor or send them out?

Regards

Alberto

#10 3 years ago

You can sand and polish the bar, it is stainless

#11 3 years ago

Boy you jogged my Memory! I dont remember the playfield, but I sure do remember the clown!

Played this in around 1965-66, and havent seen it since!
Far Rockaway Boardwalk!

Looking forward to your work!

#12 3 years ago

Some progress tonight. Removed the ball returns mechanism, shooting rod, lifter, and coin door. Starting to soak everything in Evaporust. Not sure how much I’ll be able to do with the door, it’s quite pitted. Most of the metal pieces on this game have some rust that will need to be sorted out.

Alberto

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#13 3 years ago

I’ve seen pictures of folks that got good results with the silver hammertone paint on those doors. I’d re-evaluate after the evaporust.

Nice progress so far!

Dave

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

Mikala
That looks really good! You only had the end caps re-chromed, correct?
Did you use a local vendor or send them out?
Regards
Alberto

Correct, I only chromed the end caps. The bar was sanded and polished. Ron Woodard did the work for me, but unfortunately he closed his business down.

That coin door could possibly be saved. Soak it in Evapo and start sanding, you may be surprised how it comes out.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

I looked up info on IPDB and it did not mention the history of the drop targets. It would be cool if it was one of the first. The drops all work, but the artwork is shot.

I think the first drop target of this type is Vagabond, Williams, October of 1962. Big Deal is February of 1963, so yes, it is definitely one of the first ones.

#16 3 years ago

While the coin door and ball return parts soak in Evaporust, I started working on cleaning all the seized up steppers. First was the Advance unit. That one would not move at all. It was just gummed up with grease and carbon dust. All components were taken apart and cleaned with Simple Green. The disc with all the metal contacts was polished with alcohol and a green Scotch Guard. The coils were cleaned and the coil sleeves replaced (some are metal, some are nylon) and all switches were cleaned.

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#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

While the coin door and ball return parts soak in Evaporust, I started working on cleaning all the seized up steppers. First was the Advance unit. That one would not move at all. It was just gummed up with grease and carbon dust. All components were taken apart and cleaned with Simple Green. The disc with all the metal contacts was polished with alcohol and a green Scotch Guard. The coils were cleaned and the coil sleeves replaced (some are metal, some are nylon) and all switches were cleaned.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like new!
Nice work.

Dave

#18 3 years ago

Pulled the playfield and the power board off so I could finish cleaning the cabinet of all the mouse poop.

I’ll work on the power board next, clean that up, make sure all switches work, and replace the power cord. Going to add a proper grounded power cord and add an on/off switch.

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#19 3 years ago

More progress on the Big Deal. The new power cord and power switch are installed. A buddy 3D printed a white “igloo” to protect the exposed switch.

The power board is back in the cabinet. Waiting for ground braid to be delivered so I can finish the work on installing the new power cord.

A number of the coin door and ball return pieces are out of Evaporust and shined. They will be installed eventually.

Work has begun on the playfield. The flippers are out and will be rebuilt. Both coils need to be replaced. The four dead bumpers are out and cleaned. The pop bumpers are next.

Alberto

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#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

I looked up info on IPDB and it did not mention the history of the drop targets. It would be cool if it was one of the first.

Hi, I was surfing today and saw your post. On the IPDB, I hesitate to appear definitive on game "firsts" when so many older games have not yet been "seen" or "discovered". In the case of drop targets, most folks today are understandably only familiar with the type of target that your game has, first seen in Williams 1963 "Vagabond" So, I'll make a note in that listing to direct people to earlier versions of this target. In this way, sometimes there is no specific "write-up" on a feature, but you have to go exploring. Two way to explore on the IPDB is to use the Advanced Search to search for "drop.target" in the Notable Features box (minus the quotes, but include the period between words to lock it in as a phrase) and also see what we have to say in the Glossary for that term.

Drop targets have been seen as early as 1936.

Thank you.

#21 3 years ago

All the pops are off and cleaned. Waiting for some replacement parts from PBR so I can rebuild them all

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1 week later
#22 3 years ago

Going has been slow but the following are now finished:

* Power cord has been replaced and the ground braid has been run to all four legs, coin door, and lock bar.
* All the coin door and lock bar parts are rust free and back in place. I did not polish the coin door as it’s heavily pitted. I might do something later, but for now it’s good.
* Ball lift mechanism is also rust free, no longer seized, and polished.

Next step is to clean the playfield. The top arch was a rusty mess due to a mouse nest. That is now soaking in Evaporust.

Alberto

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#23 3 years ago

Playfield cleaned up well. I’m not going to touch this one up as it’s in good shape. Next is a couple coats of wax and then start to re-populate it.

Alberto

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#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

More progress on the Big Deal. The new power cord and power switch are installed. A buddy 3D printed a white “igloo” to protect the exposed switch.
The power board is back in the cabinet. Waiting for ground braid to be delivered so I can finish the work on installing the new power cord.
A number of the coin door and ball return pieces are out of Evaporust and shined. They will be installed eventually.
Work has begun on the playfield. The flippers are out and will be rebuilt. Both coils need to be replaced. The four dead bumpers are out and cleaned. The pop bumpers are next.
Alberto[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I’d be interested in knowing how you chose to add the power switch. I’ve got a full house and a Tic Tac Toe that I’d like to modify.

Thanks
Dave

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:

I’d be interested in knowing how you chose to add the power switch. I’ve got a full house and a Tic Tac Toe that I’d like to modify.
Thanks
Dave

Dave

Once I power up the machine without issues, I will post the procedure, schematic, and photos.

Alberto

#26 3 years ago

Starting to look like a pinball again! New power cord and switch worked. Still a lot of work to do.

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#27 3 years ago

Dave,

Adding the switch did work. It’s a simple switch, just there to kill power to the machine without having to unplug it.

If you look at the schematic below, just to the left of the plug symbol is a wire callout for A60, that’s where the new switch is connected.

On the first photo you can see where the Ground from the plug connects to the transformer case then you can see the ground braid going to the legs, coin door, and lock bar. You can also see the neutral from the plug going to the low-side of the transformer.

The hot side of the transformer is spliced to another wire which is then run along the wire harness (the white zipties keep it in place) to the power switch. I had to use a Forsner bit to make the appropriate size hole to fit the switch. I cut a small piece of Lexan to a square to mount the switch to. The little white igloo covers the switch since the contacts on it are exposed. The wire coming out the other end of the switch then runs to where the old cord’s “hot” connection went to.

I hope this helps

Alberto

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#28 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

Dave,
Adding the switch did work. It’s a simple switch, just there to kill power to the machine without having to unplug it.
If you look at the schematic below, just to the left of the plug symbol is a wire callout for A60, that’s where the new switch is connected.
On the first photo you can see where the Ground from the plug connects to the transformer case then you can see the ground braid going to the legs, coin door, and lock bar. You can also see the neutral from the plug going to the low-side of the transformer.
The hot side of the transformer is spliced to another wire which is then run along the wire harness (the white zipties keep it in place) to the power switch. I had to use a Forsner bit to make the appropriate size hole to fit the switch. I cut a small piece of Lexan to a square to mount the switch to. The little white igloo covers the switch since the contacts on it are exposed. The wire coming out the other end of the switch then runs to where the old cord’s “hot” connection went to.
I hope this helps
Alberto
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work! Thank you!

Dave

#29 3 years ago

Playfield is almost put back together. The top arch needs to be sanded off and repainted. And I’m in the process of redrawing the drop target decals to get them re-printed.

Save a couple lights that are not workin and the Special lighting up but not awarding,
this game is almost back.

Alberto

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#30 3 years ago

After scanning into the computer, my daughter recreated the artwork for the drop targets. The final version has the darker green. Now I need to bring this to local print shop go have the decals made.

The game is fully working. All mechanical and electrical issues are sorted out. All that is left is stabilizing the backglass and re-creating the drop targets. The issue with the Special not awarding was in the Replay Unit. One of the switches was gapped too wide.

Alberto

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#31 3 years ago

First test print on what will become the drop target decal. Needs to be re-sized but I like the look of it.

The old ones have seen better days.

Alberto

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#32 3 years ago

This Big Deal is flipping again. Only missing the drop targets and getting the ends of the lock bar re-chromed. I need to make room in the shop for a new project so it’s going out to the game room.

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3 months later
#33 2 years ago

The repro decals for the drop targets are in. Could have sized them a little bigger, but they came out nice. They are made of automotive vynil for durability

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#34 2 years ago

One last one with the decals installed

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1 year later
#35 1 year ago

Very impressive restoration, including the target decal. Nice work!

#36 1 year ago

Nice job following the restoration process. This game warrants a re-screened glass and would be the perfect "Finishing Touch" to a restoration well done! Ron Webb shows he has them in stock. I know it's an expense, but I guarantee adding a new backglass, (matching the quality of this restoration), will broaden your smile.

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