You should be very proud of this one. All your plastics look to be in better than average shape, the playfields are dirty but i bet it will be a diamond in the rough. Nice you have all the original green display filters also, they can be hard to find. I always find it to be a much more rewarding process when you take a game from that condition back to shiny and new. Cant wait to see how it polishes up.

I have the marco one and the fit and color seem perfect but i would think the cpr would be just as good

I think you mentioned before that you had basic solder skills. Board repair on the older gottlieb stuff is not that bad as the older components tend to be larger and the connectors not so dense. Get yourself a decent solder sucker and some solder wick and you will be fine. I dont plan to let my hh go so i did not really consider the original board verses replacement as far as collector value goes. I honestly dont know what it would do to value, if it were me buying i would pay more for a game with new boards, but maybe somebody else can offer more insight.

As far as the post screws go it is important which go where. The machine screw trype go in the holes that have t-nuts in the under side and ths wood screws go in the ones that are jus wood. Also your secret passage plastic is broken. I dont mean that in a critical way just so you know it should be one peice and a bit bigger on the right side where some is missing. Looking great so far!!

Unfortunately i dont have any advice on the wax. I use a different wax. For PF dirt i use rubbing alchohol on a magic eraser. Now you need to use extreme caution with this not to rub too hard or for too long but it can also really help with levelling some of the planking you have just above the plexy window.

In my opimion 1k was a decent price. My HH PF's were in a touch better condition but very similar. Magic eraser and alchohol got out all my dirt and planking but i went into it knowing i would need to re seal it. In my case i also had heavy wear and i was not sure what route to go down for that part of the repair but i didnt have much to lose if anything went wrong with the magic eraser. I have opted to go with an overlay and then seal it but most people frown on that approach. I think the important part is to do what ever you will be happy with. I wont recommend a wax as i am not really sure what i have liked best, but defenitely avoid anything water based as others have said.

If you have the drive and skills to repair and mod your existing PB boards then that will be the most cost effective method and they should be bullet proof too. For me when i factored in the component and shipping costs to repair and mod my existing PB boards as well as my time to do it, it just didnt seem worth it. I used a new PB board for the VUK mod and it works mint.

I would replace all the fuses anyway, sometimes its hard to read the value and you want to ensure the correct values are used.

If your boards are all working and you dont want any of the features you gain with pascals boards like multiball, ball save, 5 high score names, coil locked on protection, then I would just use what you have. If one board dies in the future in a way you cant fix and dont want to send out for repair then buy pascal board at that time.

Well that makes it simple then. Do your best to fix up original boards and buy Pascal board as last resort. As Pascal suggested you can indeed turn off the extra features in the software, im not positive anout all of them but most of them. If it comes to it you could always download the manual and it has all features listed.

Too bad you had the corrosion but I'm sure you will be very happy with the Pascal boards. This also gives you many technology upgrades and is the start point if you decide to do some mods, I know you don't want to now but you never know what the future holds PF's look much better, you could do some black touch-up around some of the inserts that would be pretty easy and really improve the look. I am attaching some images that can be used for printing water slide decals to cover the wear areas if you are so inclined. Not saying you should do it, just wanted to provide the option if you are interested. It does increase the work as you would then need to protect the decals with a clear coat or other alternative but that would also preserve the game for many years to come. Keep up the good work!!

HH-Attic_Stairs_Final.jpg

HH-Main_PB_Final.jpg

LowerPBFinal.jpg

Basement_Left_copy_Yellow.jpg

Basement_Middle.jpg

Basement_Right_Copy.jpg

They go very close to each other, see photo below.

20150727_161702.jpg

Sorry i should have descibed it better. To the left of the double bonus wording on the pf u see a larger looking post with rubber ring on it. That is it.

Oh sorry i thought u were talking about the other post in that picture. I will poke around tomorrow and see if i can find it. I also have the manual that i think lists the plastic parts. Come to think of it have u looked in the manual, i think i saw u have one.

Looking great! Before u use the flippers make sure the end of limit switches on al 8 flippers are dialed in and clean(replace if its in the budget as poor contact can weaken the flipper strength considerably). Seems trivial but an incoreclty configured switch will kill a coil in minutes and quickly tunr a smile upside down. Otherwise once the caps are replaced the rest should just be logical troubleshooting, but maybe everything will just work perfect now. Finger x for you, super excited to see it coming back together.

I would replace both along with the bridge rectifiers. For the small cost it will ensure you are trouble free from voltage issues.

The higher voltage on the caps wont be a problem but the loose connection should be resolved with a shorter screw or washer so the connection is tight. Your missing segments are most likely a bad connection on the score displays themselves. I would remove each connector and inspect/clean with alchohol. You can also check with a dmm to ensure you have continuity between the wire side of the connector and the trace on the pcb it should be connected to to be sure its not a connection issue. On mine i had one bad connection on display one and it took out segments on display 1,3 and 4. The balls message means the game cant find the ball in the trough. Check the switch for the trough in the switch test. Good luck, u are so close now, im pulling for you!

David,

The coil you are after is an A-5195 as seen in the game specific parts for the HH on the PBR Site A-5195.png
It is important you use this coil as there is a very soft kick from it and you would not want it firing out of that hole any faster. As for the sound issue I don't recall changing any settings on my Pascal board to enable sounds as they were all enabled by default. You could try poking around in the menu but I would guess the problem is more likely in the connectors from the sound board to the Pascal board. I have read posts from others having similar issues to yours and the fix was cleaning/replacing the connectors on the cable that joins them. Hope this helps!!

Looks like you have done all you can for the display, just break down and order another one. If you have any interest in upgrading to 7 digit displays I know Jim from Boston Pinball has made a 7-Digit display that plugs into the standard harness for the 6-digit and then Pascal has likely already got the code to work with them. Then you could get LED 7-digit displays without any wiring upgrades. I have yet to order these as I sunk a fair bit into my HH already but I will eventually do it.
Ok onto the coil issue. First thing to check is that you have 24VDC on the Red/Yellow/Yellow wire of the coil. I'm assuming you do as it sounds like the trap door and up kicker are working, they all share Fuse F14 on the main PF. Given you have a brand new Pascal board that leaves the Q1 2N5875 transistor mounted on the bottom of the main PF right beside the coil as the main culprit. For many of the System 80 Games they used under PF mounted transistors for the high current stuff like kicker coils so they could use low current transistors on the driver board that are normally used for controlled lighting to run much larger loads like coils.
Transistor and Coil1.png
In the image above you can see the transistor and coil in question. The Yellow/Purple/Purple wire runs directly from the coil to the Transistor beside it. The transistors job is to close the connection between ground and the Yellow/Purple/Purple wire when it receives the control signal on the Brown/Orange/Orange wire.
Transistor and Coil2.png
Before assuming the Transistor is bad we should check the green wire connecting to its case is in fact a solid connection to ground using your multi meter. If that tests good then you should follow this excerpt from Clays guides to confirm the transistor is bad.

It is best to isolate the 2N5875 from the driver board. This can be done easily by removing the connectors from the driver board to the playfield (or remove the one lead from the transistor that connects to the driver board, see two steps below). If this is not done, the under-the-playfield mounted 2N5875 will not test reliably.
Put the red lead on the metal case of the transistor, and put the black lead on each leg one at a time. If the transistor is installed in the game, a reading of .5 for each leg should be seen. If the transistor is not installed, .5 for one leg, and nothing for the other should be seen The values can be from .4 to .6; anything else and the transistor is bad.
It's always best to check the wiring on the playfield mounted transistors too. I've seen them mis-installed by previous repair people. With the transistor front facing left, pins right, long part of transistor up, the farthest pin from you (base, white/red/red wire with pull up resistor) is always connected to the driver board. The nearest pin to you (emitter) connects to the NON-banded diode side of the coil. The case (collector) gets the green ground.
Important Note: if the pre-driver MPS-U45 transistor on the driver board for the 2N5875 is bad, the 2N5875 could test as bad (even though it is not)! Again if the under-the-playfield 2N5875 is isolated from the driver board, this will not be an issue.
Now put the black lead of the DMM on the BASE of the playfield mounted transistor (this is the transistor lead with TWO wires connected). Put the red lead on either the metal transistor case (collector), or the emitter (the other leg). A reading of .4 to .6 should be seen. Change the red lead to the other transistor terminal, and again .4 to .6 should be seen.

I suspect you will confirm the state of the 2N5875 is bad, PB Resource sells them for $5.10 each and its an easy replacement.

I would say pascal is correct. With the pf in the raised position there will be three banks of relays in the lowed right corner of the underside of the pf. Relay Q should be on (closed) during play and relay T should be off (open) during play. Each relay coil drives a bank of normally open and closs mino switches. Maybe the contacts of one of the mini switches burned when the coil locked on.

I will have to dig up the schematic to give specific advice on what wire color does what. Basically each relay has a plastic bracket with slots in it that attaches to the moving part of the relay. There is then a stack of mini switches that screw into the bracket. One blade of each switch slips thru the plastic part of the actuator (to keep it electrically isolated), in that way as the relay opens and closes it opens and closes the mini switches. Each switch stack can be taken apart individually and each switch can be replaced individually in each stack. Dont lose the screws as theh are not as easy to replace as most in the game are. A visual inspection of the contacts of each switch should reveal an obvious visual indication if there is one burned. Pb resource stocks the switches and theh are cheap. I will lool up the wire colors and post back what voltage you should have and where.

That white residue looks like corrosion but hard to say for sure with that puc being a bit blurry. I use 99% alchohol from any pharmacy to clean the switches. Clean and adjust all of them while u are at it. I would guess a fuse on the pb not getting power but am away from my game and manual at the moment. Will try to get u some details on wiring this evening.

So happy to hear all is working. Those two look awesome together. Game room really looks great! Im sure you will have many hours of fun with them.