Check your fuse clips. Press down hard on the installed fuses and if they Y out the clips then there is your problem. EVERY DE game I have ever seen has bad fuse clips. Known weak spot.
Tighten the Bridge thats loose on the BB too. It needs to be tight to dissipate heat

The BR 's you ordered are perfect. I use them all the time to replace the lowly factory stuff. Check your connectors too. PS,CPU etc..

Well, I think you really need to measure the voltages on the power supply to determine the cause of the reset. At the top of the power supply are some test points. I would be interested in knowing if 12 volts or 5 volts is a problem. If it is a 5 volt issue, then I would replace the C2 capacitor (100uf 25 volt electrolytic). If 12 volt issue, then you may have burnt pins on CN1, fuse clip problem with F1 or F2 or even the bridge rectifier is going out.

So you need to measure the voltages as it is the starting point to know where to look.
If 12 volts is ok, then the bridge rectifier is not the problem.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Power_Supply_Issues

No problem. 1kv is just a higher rated part than the 600v part you have coming in the mail.
I would not just randomly replace them. As I mentioned in the post above, determine where your problem is.
They are very difficult to remove without damaging the pads and traces.

Yes, it is good to check to see if there is a broken diode on the coil, but also use your ohmmeter to see what the coil ohms are. You can compare the ohms of all the flipper coils to see if there is a big difference in the resistance.

But regardless of what you find, replace the C2 (100 uf 25 volt capacitor) as this one holds the 5volts stable, but if it leaks or just fails, you will have random resets.

ok fuse clips are fine then go on to check connectors and header pins particularly on the power supply and also check power test points. If its low or too much ac ripple it will reset.

3501 is only 100v and the 3506 is a 600v BR much better. Bridges are like caps in that a higher voltage value is fine.

It was reflowed I bet and not replaced.
You need to check the little caps c2 and c3 on the power supply as well. EVERY de power supply I have seen has both of these caps leaking or bad.
Particularly the little cap by the bridge...If its bad game will reset due to low 5 volts under load.

also you can replace the coil diodes anyways. They have had a tough life and they are very cheap. Also under- fusing is fine. No harm done as fuse will blow sooner.
Just DO NOT over fuse. Makes the fuse useless and damage or fire can result.

check the solders on the pins too and look for tarnished or burnt ones as well as cold solders/dark rings or lack of solder.

Lamp matrix lights get power from the BB mounted Bridge. Check the fuses there and also check the bridge as well which is easy to do with dmm on diode setting. Pinwiki has the process or I can walk you through it.

CN1 is bad and needs the whole molex header replaced. 12 pin male board mounted unit as well as the female pins on the connector side. Thats the power in for the entire power supply and it needs to be perfect.
Very common for that to be burned
You found the problem and thats at least half the battle.

I have had great success solder sucking all 12 pins out with a temp controlled solder station and solder sucker and then it just falls off the board after the last pin is done. If it does not come easy that way......add more solder to all pins and solder suck again and it should fall right off.

If the lamp matrix fuse is blown its bridge is usually bad and with it being loose on the BB its gotten really hot during its life and could use to be replaced.
Do not forget to add the conducting compound before attaching the new bridge to the BB. Heat is their enemy. And if the screw strips in the hole add bamboo skewers with glue or tooth picks with glue to take up the slop and reattach it firmly.
Good luck! I am sure you will be playing in no time.