Some time ago I heard about the design problem in a large number of Williams games. The problem is about missing the fuses in the 18V (controlled lamps) and 34V (solenoids) circuits before the bridge rectifiers. Because of the missing fuses things can go very wrong with these games. When a short occurs in a bridge rectifier there is a possibility of burning wires from the transformer to the bridge rectifiers. In worst case scenario even the transformer goes up in smoke. In the best case the main fuse blows and turns the machine off. To remedy this problem simply placing fuses in the circuit before the bridge rectifiers is advised. A very doable solution. Another problem could be the very large capacitor in the 18V circuit. The life expectancy of 10 to 15 years is already long past for all machines. Now isn’t that much of a problem for the controlled lamps, but the electronics might object. When your controlled lamps burn less bright there might also be a problem with the bridge rectifier. All these problems can be fixed by using my brand new Bridge Board.
Brug Bord 01 klein.jpg
On this new board are the bridge rectifiers, capacitor replacements and the newly added fuses. These components can continue to serve you for another 10 to 15 years and replacements are easily available. Simple screw connections, no soldering skills needed. The bridge rectifiers are on the back side of the board and are also used for mounting the board in the back box. This way the bridge rectifiers have the best cooling thru the metal back plate in the back box of the machine. If you want you can also mount the bridge rectifiers on the front of the board, but an extra cooling body is advised and the use of mounting spacers. Additionally this new board also has 2 leds for checking if the exit power is present.
Brug Bord 02 klein.jpg
You can use this board in ALL games from Williams System 3 up to System 11A. Data East used a lot of technology from Williams. So you can also use this new Bridge Board for Data East games as well. Even the first 4 games from Sega too.

I do have to mention that Williams solved this fuse problem from System 11B. From this series Williams used an Aux. Power board which has the fuses added. Data East solved this missing fuse problem from their 3rd game (Time Machine).

Despite of the solved problem in Data East games, you can still use the new Bridge Board to replace the large expensive capacitor. The big advantage is that you also replace the old bridge rectifiers and the fuse holders all with one new board.

The price for this Bridge Board would be 30 euro ($41) plus shipping. Shipping to countries within the EU would be 15 euro ($20). Shipping to the USA would be 25 euro ($35). Combined shipping is advised to keep the shipping costs low. If you have any questions about this board or its connections, please send e-mail me at inkochnito @ kpnplanet . nl or inkochnito @ gmail . com.
Brug Bord 04 klein.jpg

Here are a few images of some games and the situation in which you can use the Bridge Board.
Please take notice of the components placed in the red circle.
BB-3.jpg

BB-6.jpg

BB-8.jpg
In Data East Guns n' Roses.
BB_DE_GNR.jpg
Data East Torpedo Alley
BB_DE_Torpedo.jpg
Sega Maverick, please notice the second large capacitor for the large DMD.
This one can also be replaced with a Bridge Board.
So for Sega you would need two boards.
BB_Sega_Mav.jpg

As we speak I am working out an agreement with Todd from Big Daddy's Enterprises.
He is willing to be distributor for the USA.
More to come.....

Sure, this is the prototype board in my F-14 Tomcat.
I will take some more shots when I do my Laser Cue and Data East Checkpoint.
Tomcat_Proto_1.jpg
Tomcat_Proto_2.jpg
Tomcat_Proto_3.jpg

I've updated my website with step by step instructions.
I did both my Laser Cue and Checkpoint.
Just take a look on my website and click on de Bridge Board.

10 boards are on their way to Big Daddy's Enterprises.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

The Bridge Board is now available at Big Daddy's Enterprises!
For only $49 each.
Please go and order a Bridge Board from Todd, great guy!
http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

Image please!

I would have turned the board one quarter counter clockwise.
Then the wires wouldn't be pressed against the side of the cabinet.
And you can see the controll LED's more easely.
Okee, you would need to drill 2 new holes, but it would be a better fit of the board.

Nice job!

The next batch is on its way to Big Daddy's Enterprises.
For only $49 each.
Please go and order a Bridge Board from Todd, great guy!
http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

European customers can order directly with me.
I'm selling the boards for 30 euro plus shipping (approx.13 euro within the euro zone).
37 euro binnen Nederland inclusief verzending.

Please protect your game before it goes up in smoke!

www.inkochnito.nl
Click on the Bridge Board image for more info.

Please tell your friends to add this board to your game.
It make things a lot safer.

Bridge Boards are still available....

Big Daddy has just received a next batch of boards.
Get them at http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/
Any questions, just ask.

Peter

I isn't really nessesary, but it wouldn't hurt.
My recommendation would be, if in the original situation compound has been used, use it again.
But then again, it would not hurt to use it anyway.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Thanks for the images Marco.
I was looking for images to clearify my making the board.
Really, an image says more than a thousand words...
Can I use these images on my Bridge Board website?

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

It been a long time now.
Time to update this posting a bit.

I discovered there are some warnings due to Data East games.
In some Data East games a motor is used.
This motor runs on the 26Vac power taken from the bridge rectifier for the coils (white-red wires).
Usually these extra two wires are connected to a 2-pin connector.
When you remove the unneeded fuses for the bridge rectifiers, this motor will be left unfused.
I recommend to reuse one fuse holder for the motor connector.
Use a 2.5 Amp. fuse for the motor.
It depends a bit on the type of motor used.

The following games use extra motors:
Batman (Batbar motor),
Jurassic Park (T-Rex motor),
Maverick (Paddle Wheel motor),
Phantom of the Opera (Organ motor),
Rocky & Bullwinkle (Saw motor),
Star Trek 25th anniversary (Swinging Target & Transporter Special effect motor),
Star Wars (Death Star, R2D2, Bar Target motor),
Tales from the Crypt (up/down motor),
The Who’s Tommy (The Mirror motor).

Maybe someone with any of these games can tune in and measure the current each game motor is using.
Then we can put the right fuse value with each game.

The connected Bridge Board should look like this:

Data_East_aansluitingen (resized).jpg

I will contact Marco and ask why he didn't asked me to send him a shipment...
If you want to buy 10 (or more) board, send me an email and we will work something out.

Peter

Yes, both games need this.
You can look on my website in the supported games list:
http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/Supported_games_list.htm

Peter

Thanks you very much for your kind words!
See, now I'm blushing....

Peter

A shipment of 20 Bridge Boards are on their way to Marco Specialties.
He forgot to order a new batch due to attending so many shows.

Yes, but shipping to the USA is expansive.
Please do this in a email or PM.

Can you post an image of the big cap and surrounding area?
The manual clearly shows 2 bridge rectifiers (and the big cap).
The power supply being replaced shouldn't change that.
From the looks of the Rottendog board it is a drop-in replacement for the power supply only, not the bridge rectifiers.

Knowing and understanding what the Bridge Boards are for helps a lot.
Piece of cake if you know what you are doing.

In the first picture you are holding the connector that needs to go to the Power Supply board.
All ground wires (Black) in a 6-pin connector.

The second picture you are holding the supply connector that needs to go to the Power Supply board.
The gray and gray-white wires are for the 5V supply, blue is the 34V and the purple is the 18V wire.
The white wires are 90VAC for the displays +100V and -100V.

You are looking at the wroung connectors.
Follow the wires connecting to the bridge rectifiers (third picture).
All leads goto one 12-pin connector.
That's the connector you need to find.

Here is a marked version of your bridge rectifiers.
On my website http://www.inkochnito.nl is a step-by-step guide how to connect the Bridge Board.
Just click on the Bridge Board image and choice the language you like.
If you still have questions, just ask....

Peter
Williams_Bridges (resized).jpg

Can you show a bigger view/picture please?
There is no way to tell where the wires from the big cap are going to....
I think the two pegs on the right are supposed to have the bridge rectifiers.
Atleast the image on the ipdb says so.

I can see the original rectifiers in this image.
I've marked them with the red arrows.
The yellow arrow points at the connector for both rectifiers and the big cap.
That's the connector you work from.
At the black arrow you can see the ground wire from the big cap going to the flipper power board.
Simply cut them at the big cap and reconnect both black wires to one of the ground connection points on the Bridge Board connectors.
Just follow the step-by-step instruction for a game like Laser Cue:
http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/laser_cue.htm
It has the same type of setup.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

SpaceShuttle4 (resized).jpg

Problems with the flippers are a result of bad End Of Stroke (EOS) switches.
Make sure they open when the flipper is up and are gapped correctly.
A new power supply doesn't fix that.

It is not nessesary to double up on the wires.
Just keep them original, unless specified by an amendment.
The Bridge Board has extra connections (just in case), but not all are used.
The only thing I would add is an extra ground wire to the metal plate of the back box.

Connection instructions are also on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl (click on the Bridge Board image).

Peter

No, you need to use a GND (black) connection at any connectors on the right side.
It does not matter if it is on the orange side or the purple side, they are all the same.

Bridge_Board_connections (resized).jpg

Yes, can't go wroung.
Here is the pdf file with more explanation.

Inkochnito_Bridge_Board.pdf

You may want to add two more fuses for the 5V (gray) wires.
I've seen one recently with burned gray wires.
In later games those fuses are factory.

Peter

5V_fuses (resized).jpg

I would suggest to take away the High Voltage paper.
It works as an isolator for the heat.
It can also burn when it gets hot enough....

Big Daddy Enterprises has them too.
Allthough he may be out of boards soon.....
Restocking goes slow because of veeeerrrrrryyyy slow postal service.
Customs slow things down too.
Last time it took a package 2.5 months to get from Europe to the USA.

No.
Swords of Fury is a System 11B and has an Aux. Power Board, which has the bridge rectifiers and fuses, on board.
No need for the Bridge Board.

Yes, the fuse on the side of the backbox is for the rectifier and BIG capacitor (controled lamps).
On the Aux. board is the fuse for the solenoids (among others).

I had to move the G.I. fuse board a bit to the left to create some space to put the Bridge Board where I wanted it.
http://home.kpn.nl/inkochnito/FirePower.htm
Maybe your wires are cut a bit shorter than usual.
Your image is a bit up close.
It hard to see if there is a better place to put the board.

The wires between the rectifiers should not be a problem.
The rectifiers do not get that hot.
You can also twist the board 180 degrees, so the input connectors are on the right insted of left.
The output wires go to the 12-pin connector, which does not have a fixed bunble of wires and can be left hanging or attached to something with tiewraps.

Your led's may be a bit brighter because of the new capacitors in the 18V supply line.
The old cap may have been on it's way out....

4x5A block isn't always possible.
On my Blackout I did 2x5A (back box split in 2x 19 lamps), 1x2A (coin door), 1x 10A (playfield).
Look in the Blackout posting...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blackout-club-fans-welcome/page/11#post-5281329

It's looking good.

If I can give you one more advice, split the G.I. into 4 strings.
I've done this on my Blackout too.
A single fuse of 20A?
It is safer and more secure to use 4 lower values.
In my Blackout I split the insert panel G.I. into 2 parts of 19 or 20 lamps.
Playfield G.I. is the third and the cabinet G.I. (coin door) the fourth.
Here is a link to the posting.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blackout-club-fans-welcome/page/11#post-5277371
Just connect one yellow wire at a time and you will see what it does (playfield, insert, coin door).

Peter

Yes, I did.
One wire (yellow) from the transformer goes to the fuses.
The four other (thiner) yellow wires go to the other side of the fuses.

The 34-36VDC is top voltage.
26Vac x 1.4 (root2) = 36Vdc.
As there is no capacitor after the rectifier, so you are measuring an average voltage of 30Vdc.
The voltage you found is good.