(Topic ID: 85304)

Bridge Board available for Williams games

By Inkochnito

10 years ago


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  • 125 posts
  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Mitch
  • Topic is favorited by 55 Pinsiders

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    There are 125 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
    #101 3 years ago

    I am beginning to lose faith in Williams as a manufacturer. I mounted mine today and it did great but I *really* had to cram it in there. Mine's a Firepower and it had the "orange and blue" colored 34 VDC wires, but also my blue 14 VAC lines were *slightly* different colored blues from each other. In fact one of my blue 14 VAC lines is the same share of blue as the blue 34 VDC line. Kinda scared the hell out of me.

    Anyway -

    PXL_20201004_010312252 (resized).jpgPXL_20201004_010312252 (resized).jpg

    I really had to cram it in there and had to put the blue and red wires *behind* the board essentially between the rectifiers. Is this okay? Should I figure something else out?

    Also I noticed the LED's are just a little brighter after replacing this - is this a result of the new bridges? Because if it is, wow.

    #102 3 years ago

    I had to move the G.I. fuse board a bit to the left to create some space to put the Bridge Board where I wanted it.
    http://home.kpn.nl/inkochnito/FirePower.htm
    Maybe your wires are cut a bit shorter than usual.
    Your image is a bit up close.
    It hard to see if there is a better place to put the board.

    The wires between the rectifiers should not be a problem.
    The rectifiers do not get that hot.
    You can also twist the board 180 degrees, so the input connectors are on the right insted of left.
    The output wires go to the 12-pin connector, which does not have a fixed bunble of wires and can be left hanging or attached to something with tiewraps.

    Your led's may be a bit brighter because of the new capacitors in the 18V supply line.
    The old cap may have been on it's way out....

    #103 3 years ago

    Oh I tried flipping the board 180 degrees, believe me. *This* was the long way to do it. I suppose I could have put them on the right inside wall of the backbox.

    I used your guide and moved the fuses over to the left as far as I could without interfering with the harness. I mean if the red and blue wires are fine between the bridges I'm good with it.

    It is a wonderful board, I literally have no idea what it does except make my game safer and a little more bulletproof. I have another one to install in a Pinbot soon. Thank you for your awesome contributions to our hobby.

    1 year later
    #105 2 years ago

    Bump... This is still of benefit to Williams SS owners and shouldn't dry up.

    #106 2 years ago
    Quoted from clodpole:

    Bump... This is still of benefit to Williams SS owners and shouldn't dry up.

    YUP! Love this board and I used it in baywatch too.

    #107 2 years ago

    I got one going in Flash soon.

    It'll free up space to try something Ken Layton suggested - splitting the 20A GI fuse circuit into a 4X5A block, for simpler lighting diagnostics.

    #108 2 years ago
    Quoted from clodpole:

    I got one going in Flash soon.
    It'll free up space to try something Ken Layton suggested - splitting the 20A GI fuse circuit into a 4X5A block, for simpler lighting diagnostics.

    4x5A block isn't always possible.
    On my Blackout I did 2x5A (back box split in 2x 19 lamps), 1x2A (coin door), 1x 10A (playfield).
    Look in the Blackout posting...
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blackout-club-fans-welcome/page/11#post-5281329

    #109 2 years ago

    Thanks - I'll study it.

    1 month later
    #110 2 years ago

    OK... I finally got around to installing the bridge board in my Flash. I guess it's my "Ken Layton Memorial" install, as he was the one who suggested I use the board instead of just replacing the filter capacitor. Unfortunately, he's not around to share in the joy of completing the task.

    Anyway, it looks right to me, but I haven't quite screwed up my courage to turn the machine on. Any comments?

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    #111 2 years ago

    go on page 2 and there aa handful of pics and it looks like you have it wired right

    start here and work down.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bridge-board-available-for-williams-games/page/2#post-4664700

    #112 2 years ago

    Thanks - that was my method. How's yours doing?

    #113 2 years ago
    Quoted from clodpole:

    Thanks - that was my method. How's yours doing?

    Oh man, I’ve sold all the games but I had them in
    Baywatch
    Black Knight
    F14

    Love these boards!
    F14 went to my friend though so I can still play it

    #114 2 years ago

    Our local assn. had a repair party to which a guy brought an F14. "What's the problem?" we asked. He plugged it in and the siren came on and stayed on! Wow!

    #115 2 years ago

    If I finish a project in the evening, I don't test it 'til the next morning - that way, if it doesn't work I don't lose sleep trying to figure out what's wrong. So... I powered up the Flash this morning and it looks and plays fine.

    The board is well made and installs neatly; thanks Peter Koch!

    #116 2 years ago
    Quoted from clodpole:

    OK... I finally got around to installing the bridge board in my Flash. I guess it's my "Ken Layton Memorial" install, as he was the one who suggested I use the board instead of just replacing the filter capacitor. Unfortunately, he's not around to share in the joy of completing the task.
    Anyway, it looks right to me, but I haven't quite screwed up my courage to turn the machine on. Any comments?
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    It's looking good.

    If I can give you one more advice, split the G.I. into 4 strings.
    I've done this on my Blackout too.
    A single fuse of 20A?
    It is safer and more secure to use 4 lower values.
    In my Blackout I split the insert panel G.I. into 2 parts of 19 or 20 lamps.
    Playfield G.I. is the third and the cabinet G.I. (coin door) the fourth.
    Here is a link to the posting.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blackout-club-fans-welcome/page/11#post-5277371
    Just connect one yellow wire at a time and you will see what it does (playfield, insert, coin door).

    Peter

    #117 2 years ago
    Quoted from Inkochnito:

    It's looking good.
    If I can give you one more advice, split the G.I. into 4 strings.
    I've done this on my Blackout too.

    Thanks, Peter. I bought the stuff to split the lighting fuses, but I'm going to wait a bit. I'm not "professional grade" at pinball repair and hold myself to one change at a time. If something goes wrong, I don't have so many places to look for the reason.

    I appreciate your attention, and your nice bridge board!

    Greg

    p.s. Did you solder one wire across the bottom tabs of the 4 fuse holders in your Firepower photo?

    #118 2 years ago
    Quoted from clodpole:

    Did you solder one wire across the bottom tabs of the 4 fuse holders in your Firepower photo?

    Yes, I did.
    One wire (yellow) from the transformer goes to the fuses.
    The four other (thiner) yellow wires go to the other side of the fuses.

    #119 2 years ago

    OK, thanks.

    3 months later
    #120 2 years ago

    I just installed this in my Space Shuttle yesterday and noticed that I'm not getting 34VDC for the solenoids; I'm getting ~30VDC on the orange wires All the other voltages are Ok. The machine works perfectly, but is this a cause for concern? Is that normal? I know Cheddar installed one of these in a Space Shuttle, maybe you could post your voltages? I will go through and post all of mine later tonight.

    #121 2 years ago

    My space shuttle is long gone. I'd expect 30vDC is acceptable. Are you noticing a loss of coil strength?

    #122 2 years ago
    Quoted from interconnect:

    I just installed this in my Space Shuttle yesterday and noticed that I'm not getting 34VDC for the solenoids; I'm getting ~30VDC on the orange wires All the other voltages are Ok. The machine works perfectly, but is this a cause for concern? Is that normal?

    Yes, that's fine. Schematic is hard to read on my scan but it looks like it says 'unloaded' which means the voltage will vary a little bit. IIRC the solenoids all expect 28vdc so 30 is ok (except the flippers, which have the separate 50vdc supply)

    #123 2 years ago

    The 34-36VDC is top voltage.
    26Vac x 1.4 (root2) = 36Vdc.
    As there is no capacitor after the rectifier, so you are measuring an average voltage of 30Vdc.
    The voltage you found is good.

    #124 2 years ago

    My coils seems totally fine; they seem strong. Thanks everyone. Just wanted to check since it seemed low.

    I’m not sure how it’s an average voltage; I would expect to read a RMS voltage when dealing with AC since the meter is RMS, but I’ve never heard of an average voltage with DC. I’m curious as to why…

    Anyhow thanks for all the info!

    11 months later
    #125 1 year ago

    Still love these.

    Space shuttle I did today.

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    There are 125 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

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