(Topic ID: 85304)

Bridge Board available for Williams games

By Inkochnito

7 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 109 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by clodpole
  • Topic is favorited by 51 Pinsiders

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    There are 109 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
    #101 1 year ago

    I am beginning to lose faith in Williams as a manufacturer. I mounted mine today and it did great but I *really* had to cram it in there. Mine's a Firepower and it had the "orange and blue" colored 34 VDC wires, but also my blue 14 VAC lines were *slightly* different colored blues from each other. In fact one of my blue 14 VAC lines is the same share of blue as the blue 34 VDC line. Kinda scared the hell out of me.

    Anyway -

    PXL_20201004_010312252 (resized).jpg

    I really had to cram it in there and had to put the blue and red wires *behind* the board essentially between the rectifiers. Is this okay? Should I figure something else out?

    Also I noticed the LED's are just a little brighter after replacing this - is this a result of the new bridges? Because if it is, wow.

    #102 1 year ago

    I had to move the G.I. fuse board a bit to the left to create some space to put the Bridge Board where I wanted it.
    http://home.kpn.nl/inkochnito/FirePower.htm
    Maybe your wires are cut a bit shorter than usual.
    Your image is a bit up close.
    It hard to see if there is a better place to put the board.

    The wires between the rectifiers should not be a problem.
    The rectifiers do not get that hot.
    You can also twist the board 180 degrees, so the input connectors are on the right insted of left.
    The output wires go to the 12-pin connector, which does not have a fixed bunble of wires and can be left hanging or attached to something with tiewraps.

    Your led's may be a bit brighter because of the new capacitors in the 18V supply line.
    The old cap may have been on it's way out....

    #103 1 year ago

    Oh I tried flipping the board 180 degrees, believe me. *This* was the long way to do it. I suppose I could have put them on the right inside wall of the backbox.

    I used your guide and moved the fuses over to the left as far as I could without interfering with the harness. I mean if the red and blue wires are fine between the bridges I'm good with it.

    It is a wonderful board, I literally have no idea what it does except make my game safer and a little more bulletproof. I have another one to install in a Pinbot soon. Thank you for your awesome contributions to our hobby.

    1 year later
    #105 18 days ago

    Bump... This is still of benefit to Williams SS owners and shouldn't dry up.

    #106 17 days ago
    Quoted from clodpole:

    Bump... This is still of benefit to Williams SS owners and shouldn't dry up.

    YUP! Love this board and I used it in baywatch too.

    #107 16 days ago

    I got one going in Flash soon.

    It'll free up space to try something Ken Layton suggested - splitting the 20A GI fuse circuit into a 4X5A block, for simpler lighting diagnostics.

    #108 16 days ago
    Quoted from clodpole:

    I got one going in Flash soon.
    It'll free up space to try something Ken Layton suggested - splitting the 20A GI fuse circuit into a 4X5A block, for simpler lighting diagnostics.

    4x5A block isn't always possible.
    On my Blackout I did 2x5A (back box split in 2x 19 lamps), 1x2A (coin door), 1x 10A (playfield).
    Look in the Blackout posting...
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blackout-club-fans-welcome/page/11#post-5281329

    #109 16 days ago

    Thanks - I'll study it.

    There are 109 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

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