Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
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Great your restoring another older game. Stenciling the cab is a pain because the new stencils that are out there are made so that they fit EXACTLY on top of each other, They are nothing like the factory stencils that have a slight over lapping. I just did the coin door side of my HS and it turned out like crap, I had to cut up 2 of the three so they would register somewhat closely.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:New cabinet decals arrived today! Looks very good and will be a pleasure to add to the cab.
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NICE!!!!
Don't even think about a brush or roller. Rattle can primer is ok but when it comes to painting I would go a paint gun. If you don't want to spend the money for a one time cab paint ask a body shop how much to shoot it. It helps to have friends in a body shop. 
Yup, nothing like the feeling of doing it yourself but that surface has to be perfectly smooth for that decal.
Try where they sell automobile paint supplies, you can get it in rattle can, it aint cheap. I'd go semi or satin black.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yesterday i got some new bumper parts! Always like christmas when stuff like this arrives
So Ive been disassembling the old ones and started to rebuild new ones, however I did not get far because i need the parts that are in the tumbler but at least i got a small taste of what it will be like to put everything back together.
Still working on the playfield though as well as the cab, takes some time because i work a lot and then there is always the family to take care of. But anyway Im making progress which is good! Since its my first restore its actually kinda nice too to have some time to let things sink in when learning.bumperparts.jpg 199 KB
Look at all those nice new parts. Putting nice clean stuff back together is always fun. I take it you have rebuilt pops before.
Here's a question for you, does the bulb socket inside the body stand up straight or does it lean to one side? If it leans there's a looping trick you can do with the wire and socket to make it stand up straight....now if I could only find the thread. I think vid posted it.
My BoP will be coming sometime this week so I may be asking you for advise on how to fix something. I hope ya don't mind.
I can't imagine what I would be able to help with, I haven't even gotten mine yet or played it for that matter. 
I think I read a post where to clean the coils they took the old wrappers off and washed the coils in the dishwasher. Better find out if I was rite before you do it.
As long as you get a good reading using a DMM. I don't know what they should read, vid1900 would be the one to ask. Search for a thread called something like "cleaning and/or testing coils" and see what turns up.
Quoted from thetallman:Amazing thread to read, so impressed with the work you've done. Maybe I'll be brave enough to strip mine down some day, the mylar has lifted in some places and shows a bit of bubbling. A few years ago I bought a NOS ramp which is awaiting fitting too. Gulp.....
I have a set of new ramps that I'm starting to put on but you know how it goes, you have to take stuff off to put the new stuff on so as long as you have that stuff off my might as well clean it and take the stuff next to it off and clean it...and on and on and on. 
Just checked mine last night and they are bent also. It makes scense to me, they don't bind on the side of the cab then and gouge the wood.
Classic Playfields still has the Mini Bride plastic piece, that mini pf in the top right of the game. I just bought one, you should think about it also while they still have them. $54 shipped.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Thanks for the tip! I allready bought one from p4p in Norway as well as the helmet and egg crate platic. My helmet is broken around the screws, nothing that bad but as you say, why not while it's available!
Still need the ramps though but will do the cab and backbox warning text first. Will cost some so the ramps have to wait. We'll see if there are still any around later.
Good you have that one and helmet and egg crate. I have those and all the ramps and infact I'm replacing the ramps today and am cutting and splicing all the wires for the switches.
Quoted from mollyspub:Cpr has the face cubes. Guides are nice and clear..... Now if only someone will come out with repro plastics and a playfield !
They are temp. out of stock "waiting for more welding cement to assemble more" it says and wouldn't you know it, if I had waited and bought the faces at the same time as the mini pf I could have saved $5. 
WOW that's really ugly and right where the leg bolts on. That has to be fixed right for game stability reasons. I'd spend the money and take it to a professional cabinet restorer. I would for sure put those big aftermarket metal leg braces on.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yeah its not that good, i wonder if it was beer or that it just sat in like a cold garage or basement.. =)
Anyway im going to see what i can do about it myself. After sanding, glueing etc. it might be good to go. But if I wont succeed in fixing it i might concider building a replica. Ive got contacts in the wood business so I think it would be sort of an "easy" project with some help from the wood guys. There are no professional cabinet restorers around.
I will get cab protectors when its all done and even fit the newer style "leg bolt brackets" on the inside. The ones that are there now are the tiny ones.
Gonna start the repair job myself first and see how it goes.
Those big leg bolt brackets have holes for #6 screws, drill them out for #12, much better holding power, I did that with my HS.
Quoted from calvin12:the problem with the repros is wile they look great and play fine the holes are oversized so the balls don't sit in them stably. you get a googly eyed bride. the originals have the holes slightly undersided and bevel cut so the ball sits in them nicely.
Have you told CPR?
Quoted from vid1900:If you decide to not attempt a restore, here are brand new cabs for $250 that ship flat:
http://www.xtremepinball.com/
The guy that restored the EATPM that I bought from him bought the cab and bb from them and let me tell you those make your game MINT!! Your game will look and feel BETTER then new.
Quoted from vid1900:Forget look and feel, I dream about the smell of fresh plywood over the moldy, pissy, smokey old cab...
Well we can't forget about that now can we. That's just a given with a new cab. 
The reason I ask is because you will be having your own cab made and with the older games mirror blades don't work very well because there is not enough room on the sides so the pf scrapes the crap out of the blades. So with your cab you could get the blades, trace out the pattern of them on the sides and route out that area so the blades actually sit about a 16th of an inch back from being flush with the new cab sides. That way when you raise the pf you would miss the blades because they are indented in the sides of the cab.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:TomDK, yeah it's nice to have friends in different businesses. Luckily I have some who works with wood. It sure helps a lot since I don't have the right tools or skills. 200 Euro for a cab ain't expensive. I think mine will be about the same or slightly more but no big deal for a fresh coffin! (That sounded like an album name for some vampire band hehe, "the transylvanians- no big deal for a fresh coffin")
Enough with the bad jokes.....get back to work.
Quoted from BadBrad97:I may be ready for some clear coat tomorrow if my schedule works out. I see why some make the scans of the alleys with the half circles. Those things were a #^&%#$#!
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That looks sooooo nice and after the clear...WOW!!! How many coats?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Ok
Badbrad: guess you've done that before! Nice work. I'm not really looking forward to complete my PF but it needs to be done and I'm a little excited after all.
His pf gives ya something to shoot for doesn't it ringmaster. I hope yours turns out that nice.
Quoted from Linolium:To help position the flippers. Pop the pins about half way out, then tighten down the flippers using those pins as a guide to where the flippers rest. Once the flippers are tight, pound down the pins again.
I wouldn't do that if I were you, I did it that way one time and one time only on my Space Shuttle. When I pushed them up I splintered the pf around the holes upward. To adjust the flippers just insert a snug fitting nail from the top or bottom and use it as the stop. For me it was lesson learned the hard way.
Both you guys are making great progress. I can only sit and dream of doing that stuff to my games...no work shop to do it in or the time to do it.
Quoted from BadBrad97:Funny you would say that. I am living in an apartment temporarily while I sell my house (and workshop garage) BUT my girlfriend has a huge house and 2 car garage and just happened to go to Ohio until February. Let's just say if she saw how bad her garage looked right now she would have a cow.
I am just going to keep banging out the restores until she gets back....
Hope you can clean it up before she comes back. Or she might be you X gf.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:@ BadBrad97: Its insane, i mean who could ever possibly have found out about it on location back in the days? =)
Here is a little update that is a bit more on topic. Ive got some new coils (I know its not needed but the old ones were too dirty to fit my taste ) and I made some own wrappers for them. The old ones will end up in the spare parts bin. All metal parts tumbled and polished (anal I know...) yoke fibres and metals and springs replaced as well as the skirts and stuff. Almost a complete rebuild in other words. Personally i like the result so far. Lets hope everything else will get as good! Btw the cap was flame polished. Hard to take a good picture with the phone but i guess you can see something at least.The guy that I bought my EATPM from went through the game just like your doing and it looks better then a new game. He even sprang for a new cab and bb. It is BEAUTIFUL!!! So keep doing what your doing both of you, the world NEEDS the games your remaking. I am glued to this thread.
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The joints are very important, what kind will they be using and what wood will you be using for the bottom of the cab?
There are different kinds of joints ie tongue and groove and a slew of others. Don't forget to use the big aftermarket leg brackets for the inside and enlarge the 6 screw holes that mount them and use #12 screws not those tiny #6. Drilling the leg bolt holes in the cab should be interesting. Are the cab builders going to do those?
The stock joints are ok but they were done for mass produced cabs. If your guys could do tongue and groove joints they would NEVER come loose or apart. Don't even think about nails or screws to hold the joint, just a tongue and groove and glue.
Quoted from vid1900:This is the bit that creates the Lock Miter Joint like the original cabs:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_lockmiter.html
Once again the master speaks, thanks vid. Follow vids advice and you can't go wrong.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Just thought i would share this repaired flipper plate with you
One of the most fun things about disassembling stuff is to see what odd things you might find "under the hood".
It sure works but it would feel better to get a replacement plate.fliphack.jpg 76 KB
That looks fine clean it up, have it zink plated, along with the other parts and it's all good.
Quoted from kosmo:This is how the slingshots switches did look on my bop, before i replace them. Guess wich one is the new part
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WOW!!! they must work GREAT now.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:@highspeed1, thanks!
Mustangpaul, I think so too. I'll do some tests when I have the things set up.
Are you going to clear coat the cab and bb. 2 or 3 buffed out clear coats would make it look STUNNING.
Quoted from BadBrad97:Here is something I have always wanted to try.
I am going with the chrome hinges and lockdown bar and I wanted the chrome siderails but they are way too freaking expensive.
Since they are stainless, they should be able to be polished... so I did. Using a random orbital I went 80 grit, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and then rubbing compound. I didn't worry about the decals because they got peeled off right after.
They are much easier to polish on the cabinet.
beforeafter
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VERY nice.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Thats really a mirror finish you got there! Nice =) Something different. I think i will keep mine closer to the original finish but nice if you want to pimp the game!
I am slightly shifting towards adding leds in the game even though i said before I wanna keep the original style. But recently ive played some pins both with and with out leds and while seeing them next to each other it feels a bit "murky" with the original lights. Dont have to worry about it yet for sure but there might be leds for the bride
Merry christmas everyone by the way!
And the power use really drops with leds added. My StPro only uses 2.7 amps and JM uses only 2.6 in full game play.
Smart move with the bags. I wonder if it would help keep the bb cool by putting a quiet fan in there to circulate the air?
I wonder if the fan would make it to cool, not letting the game get up to operating temp....if that is such a thing.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:PinsideMike, hi there! Its not bad keeping the bride working, its just that we are crazy enough to do these restorations. Its not needed on a working game (even though its nice) but for me I found a bargain and had to fix it and one thing led to another =) Nice you like the thread!
@MustangPaul, Here is the picture of the back side of the backbox lamp board that i promised btw:backside.jpg 100 KB
That is VERY nice. Thanks.
I don't know for sure but putting in all leds in the game will reduce the power usage by about 60% so adding other led stuff probably won't bring up the usage to the level of usage having just the incandecent bulbs in it. If you don't have one already I strongly suggest you get a Kill-A-Watt meter. All pinball owners should have one.
Quoted from BadBrad97:100 + hours and I have finally finished with the restore. Played my first game last night.
I went a little different this time.
All clear star posts, mini posts and rubber posts.
Changed to purple pop bumper caps and LEDs
Black cabinet decals
Chrome legs, hinges, lockdown and siderails.
You are almost there TheRingMaster!!Close up 2.jpg 288 KB
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BEAUTIFUL!!!
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Looked on the pix of your bb badbrad and i noticed that the edges of it are smoother than on my JB and even bop. Did you apply putty or something to it to get rid of the wood texture?
Funny you should mention that, I did that to my Space Shuttle and High Speed and it looks great. It took ALOT of wood putty, sandable filler primer paint and sanding to get it to look good. When I thought I had it looking good for paint I sprayed it and a number of spots would show up where it wasn't prepped good enough so I had to sand all the paint off, prep those areas and try again. It took 2-3 try's before I got it to my satisfaction. Well worth the effort though.
Yes it was A LOT of work. It's winter so it might be dry enough so you can get away without the filter. Is it dry where you live? Where do you live anyway? You should put that up on your avatar.
The plywood they used for the bb was pretty cheap with lots of voids in the layers, the 2 I did were the same way. Glad you got a black you like, you made a good choice. Good luck with matching that purple.
Quoted from BadBrad97:Just make sure that you mount the plate with the leg bolts already bolted into the holes. Sometimes they don't line up correctly after the fact and then you have to take all the screws out. Real pain.
You did that?
Bummer...at least it was only one. Did you put the big #12 screws in? They REALLY give that plate some grip.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:It's a pretty good paint but not sure what enamel is other than its strong. Let's say it's not enamel =)
OK, if it's water based paint, cleans up with water it's latex and if it cleans up with solvent it's enamel or lacquer. Enamel is the best of the 3.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Ah, allright! =)
Well, then its latex paint by that definition but on the product page on the manufacturers website it says enamel so i dont know.
Here is what it says on the site (web based translation):
"Servalac Aqua Semi-Gloss ENAMEL
Servalac Aqua is a water-based lacquer paint for indoor woodwork, doors, furniture, etc. Servalac Aqua provides a hard non-yellowing finish and is available in three splendours: glossy, semi-gloss and matte. Servalac Aqua is also available as a primer. This prevents the bleeding from new wood and has very good adhesion to the substrate. Servalac Aqua-products contain no mineral spirits or other strong solvents."
At least it looks like a good paint for the cab and i think it will work.
A water based enamel? That's a new one on me. Looks like your all set.
Quoted from lordloss:Is this that leg brace?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144
Yup that's the one. Drill out the 8 holes for #12 screws before you install and your set, no need to drill bigger holes in the wood. Those legs will be rock solid then.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Ok, here is what the backbox looks like with the black paint, Its not completely dry in the pics but gives an idea of the results. Next up is the purple color. Some careful masking is needed and I will try masking tape and some frisket and see what works best. Soon time for the decals and the installation of the cleaned parts. Looking forward to staple the new ground braid into it, it will feel very good! =) By the way the carpenters have got the materials for the rest of the cab so I will pay them a visit as soon as I can to help getting it right. I can slowly start to see the light at the end of the road "only" the playfield painting and coating and cleaning and replacing parts left soon...
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Lookin good.
Oh it will be there don't worry about that. You just have to wait longer for the "thicker" parts of the "peel" to dry before sanding. That's why you use automotive type paint that you have to thin before you shoot. Thinning the paint helps it flow better once it's laid down before it starts to dry.
Ohhhh...new ramps...me LIKE. Did you get a new helmet too? I'm still trying to find the time to finish putting mine on.
Before I put my helmet on I'm going to put some mylar patches, 2-3 layers, on the back side of the screw holes which will help keep the plastic from cracking from the screws being tightened. May be even try putting a wide circle of epoxy around the screw holes. This may seem like overkill but if I'm going to be putting all the time and effort into replacing that thing I'm going to try something to make it last.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:I think its enough maybe some kind of fiberglass tape or something could work too.
I have started to assemble the backbox now. A few corner pieces and the ground strap. Need to replace the knocker coil then it's next in line. Pictures tomorrow!
Yup fiberglass tape too. Sound like you having a busy day.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Nice!
I know the feeling, i have still not decided if i am going to put the new mini pf in and use the old til its wasted and then have a brand new for replacement. You dont see the mini playfield that much so the one i cleaned up will work good. But I dont know, might just be stupid for home use =)
Your topic is turning out to be an All BoP topic, hope ya don't mind.
Quoted from awarner:I have been rebuilding my Bride as well. I have the playfield stripped of most parts and my Wife is going to take the pop-bumpers off for me today. It's a yellow hearted Diamond Plate playfield and there's some separation around the inserts, but I did some paint work with super glue filler and it's not as bad. The miniplayfield is nice so it's staying. Not big on LEDs but I have some to put in the big and small wheel inserts (6 of which are yellow on this playfield as well). I also have enough colored 555 bulbs to do it that way if I like it better. The cabinet art is nice but faded with a few scratches. It's still too nice to replace so I'm touching up with paint and markers (I prefer original when I can). It had black rubber and that is changing to white. I've also nixed the idea of blue star posts and I'm going with clear (all posts will be clear). It's also getting a Bride 2.0 kit when that comes out. Oh, and Python signed the translite for me so it's a permanent addition to the collection.
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Your really going to town on yours and your wife is helping. Nice.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:(No laying on the floor wrapped in decals yet )
Ohhh the picture that's running through my mind right now.
No acid damage on the CPU? Since your not going to play it take the batteries out now. My board has acid damage and hopefully it can be repaired. I contacted Coinop Cauldron but is there someone else I can contact about repair?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Ive heard there are new ones made recently but not sure how much im willing to spend on the game since its pretty common after all.
They were sold out right away and if someone that did buy one wants to sell it now I think he could 1k for it no problem. If you sent yours out to be repaired it would probably run between 600-900 but then it would have a clear coat that was a mirror finish and hard as nails.
Quoted from awarner:Rottondog replacement? Try Rob Anthony? Try it yourself? Personally, I'd go with Option 3 unless it was impossible.
No way I'd try it myself, 8 chips are effected and I have no idea of what the traces look like on the back. Plus there is some scorching on another chip. Best leave that kind of repair to guys who know what their doing.
Got the sound back on my HS so the next project was to make a clear plastic that goes over the top left out kick hole. The old one was broken and pretty foggy so I made the new one out of lexan. Old on right and new on left. Took about 2 hours to make using my scroll saw and lots of sanding. Looks and fits pretty good.
BoPplastic 1.JPG
Bopplastic 2.JPGQuoted from awarner:Homestly, just replace it with a Rottindog. New parts will always win out!
There rebuilt is $365. Have to think on that one.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Here are pictures of the flipper rebuilding. The manual says: "Use Loctite 242TM when reattaching screws to the Flipper Stop Assembly, the Solenoid Bracket, and the Flipper Bushing."
So I did just that and used what I found in the hardware store, a locking agent for threaded bolts. It can be removed later on if needed so we will see if it works.
Here are some pictures of the rebuilt left flipper assembly together with a before picture. Home made coil wrapper once again too =)
The rebuilt one with the locking agent..What it looked like before:
VERY nice. It's going to "flip" like new.
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Just make sure you wire it up rite when you put them in. Mine work good so don't need a rebuild right now.
Quoted from awarner:They are usually at most shows and they have awesome show specials. Something to think about...
Never been to a show.
Like a dummy I didn't take pictures when I tore mine apart because I thought it would only take a couple of days to do what I planned. WRONG. 
Now it's a real pain. Got any close-up pictures of the pf with no plastics on you could send me?
Quoted from awarner:OT: I hot waxed my BOP playfield last night. Probably will give it another go tonight then re-assembly begins! I played one ball on the game since I bought it so I'm excited that I'll be able to play it soon.
Hot waxed?
Quoted from awarner:I'm about to put my game back together - should I start my own thread or post it here?
Yes start you own "Assembly" thread with lots of pictures....I have to see how to put mine back together.
Quoted from BadBrad97:Don't worry. You can always put it back together. It's just the question of how many times you have to put it back together and take it apart before you get it right.
Sure, but knowing what's right is the hard part.
My new translite came today but I could really use the triangular plastic piece that's in front of the faces, mine is missing.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Anyone know if that jacketha user is some spam bot? FB link to buying wow gold... and bogus posts.. if not sorry if any insult caused!
when they post a link like that it's spam, no need for it.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:You mean the one under the metal ball guide from the face? The one that is under the lock when lit lamp cover?
And to answer your question about the picture, yeah it is from 4 or 5 scanned pieces stitched together. Pain in the a but good enough I guess hehe
Got your email thanks. Looks like a perfect stitch, nice work.
Quoted from BadBrad97:Looks like this one is going to be a keeper. Nice.
Thanks for the pictures Brad, finishing up putting her back together today. All new ramps with decals, new helmet and new trans light. She's lookin gooood.
That receiver looks great. I just sand blasted my receiver, coin box door and frame on HS and sprayed it with self etching primer, painted and sprayed about 3 coats of clear on them. You'll probably shoot me or throw up in your mouth but I did them in gold chrome.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Hi brad! Yes i think something will have to be done. Maybe eventually at least. The board has been waiting all winter in the workshop with one side sanded without any signs of rust/corrosion so maybe it's not that bad? The issue with clear on it is that it reduces conductivity (word?) and since the boards find their ground on the plate it must not cause a bad ground. It was discussed earlier in the thread I think. Long story short, I have not decided what to do yet =)
They only ground through the screws so clear it then just sand a small spot by each screw. You have to remember how dry the air is during the winter, in the warmer weather is when the humidity goes up.
Not sure about that but don't use the rattle can stuff, I've been told there's something in the formula that turns it yellow over time. Can't prove it but that's what I've been told. You have the spray gun so get some automotive clear. Not sure about prepping the metal.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yup, thats always a good idea!
A question,
At some point i was thinking I should replace the PF inserts too while im at it... but they seem hard to find. Do you guys think it would be enough to sand them slightly, level them and then call it good enough?
When I put alcohol on them they look pretty nice and the clear would have a similar effect i guess... some might be a bit faded but it i put leds in the game, maybe colored ones, it must look good anyway or what do you think?
The reasons I feel intimidated by replacing them is because 1, they are hard to find and 2 there is plenty of artwork on them that would need to be recreated if i replace them and that would cause trouble or take a lot of time.. .
Here is another update,
Got some screens for the cabinet warning texts and it will be very interesting to see the results!screen.jpg 76 KB
Now your talking about real high end resto. work with removing and replacing inserts. Look up vid1900's topic about playfield resto work, I've looked at some of it and it's way over my head. Make sure you do some test panels before you do your nice bb.
If the inserts are cupped not raised I would think the clear would go on better because when it self leveled it would fill in the cup. 
You do plan on more then one coat?
Quoted from BadBrad97:If the insert comes up higher than the playfield, you need to pop it out sand it flat and then put it back in.
and don't forget to rough up the sides to give the glue some bite.
Quoted from awarner:Are these Pinball Inc. ramps? If so, why are you worried about them breaking? As far as I know, there has never been a broken Pinball Inc. ramp in the 14 years that there have been Pinball Inc. ramps. James is a good friend of mine and I have worked his booth for him at various shows. They are made 2-3 times as thick as the originals. I actually have the first set he ever made going back into my BOP. They simply don't break.
Are they the only one to make ramps? I got both ramps new in the bag when I got my game but they do feel alot thicker then the originals. I guess you could say my game is "bullet proof" now.
Quoted from awarner:Yes, Pinball Inc. is the only manufacturer of reproduction BOP ramps that I'm aware of. It's possible that there are still some NOS WMS ramps still out there, but the nature of the plastic used back then would be that they would be prone to premature failure. As plastic ages, it dries out a bit (it's a chemical change actually, but this sums it up) and gets brittle. A new ramp will live a LOT longer for multiple reasons.
Are they the same kind of plastic just thicker.
Quoted from BadBrad97:I am just a scaredy cat with new ramps
Me too.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Here we go! I have started to assemble the new cabinet for testing purposes... to see if it fits or if it needs some adjustments. It came out pretty nice and only some minor things like the flipper button holes seem to be off by just a couple of mm's.
The plan is to make sure everything comes together smoothly and then its time for painting before gluing the thing back together. Interesting indeed! Sorry for the workshop looking like a warzone btw... some of my buddies decided they wanted to make more space so they tore down a storage room we had in the corner but they forgot to clean up what was inside
Anyway, here are the pictures:cab1.jpg 185 KB
cab2.jpg 230 KB
Oh that looks soooo nice. I can just smell that new wood. Wouldn't it be better to paint it once it's glued together?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Soon this project is not a restoration anymore but rather a pinball building project with some parts from my BOP
That's what I've been thinking as your project progresses.
Well when you use the big clamps to clamp it together you may mar the outside surface and where the clamps attach, the glue will be squeezed out where you can't wipe it off so you will have to sand and repaint. Just a thought.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yeah thats true... It might be better to do it when its assembled, that will also save some time masking the corners and other places where the glue shall attach.
Here are some more pics of the project:
Door fits like a glove in the new cab:Painted "flaps" for the ramps:
Federal sticker for the backbox plate:
New leg bolt brackets tested:
More to come!
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Man that is looking great. A new coin door makes the game look so fresh I see your going with the HD corner braces, good call but 2 suggestions, 1st, don't forget the wood wedges in the corners behind the braces and 2nd, drill out those 6 wimpy #6 screw holes for #12's, I did it to mine. I have a suggestion for the coin door opening, round over the edges of the opening, inside and outside, buy doing that there is less likelyhood of the wood splintering when installing or removing the door and the paint has a nice rounded edge to stick to not a sharp edge. Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great work.
Question, how is the bottom board attached?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:The wooden bottom board is an improved style made of hard wood instead of the softer thing that was used originally. It is attached the same way the original was, slits made in all the side boards (front, back and sides) and the bottom "just" slides in there. When the sides are in place there is no place for it to go. I dont know if the original was even glued in there or if it just sat there like that. Anyway it is kinda tricky to put the pieces together because they all lock each other in. So you need to assemble the back and the sides, then slide the bottom in and then slide the front on with the sides apart. When the front is in place together with the bottom you push the sides together to lock it up. This will require at least two persons when its getting glued together otherwise it has the potential of ending up in a mess
I see, very nice. When you dry assembled it did you check for squareness?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:super straight angles
Yes, I'm sure you know how to measure for that but just checking because you have alot going on with your project.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Allright! I think it will work pretty nicely but might need the adjustments you describe after it's been teared down and reassembled. Thanks! =)
I'm doing the sanding and filling of the cabinet now so any day the paint gun is gonna get back on duty!image-617.jpg 126 KB
I take it those hole splinters are on the outside of the cab. I did some priming today also. I sanded and primed the pf back board for HS. My new clear ramp will be here in a week or so so it is time to get the back board lookin good. How many coats of primer you gonna lay down?
Quoted from TheRingMaster:I asked this before in the thread but still wondering if someone has tested the Flipper Fidelity WPC89 kit in their bride? The reason i wonder is because Im not sure it would fit physically... there seem to be some doubts about that.
Here is the kit:
(It says WPC95 in the link, though the page is about the WPC89 kit which im planning to buy if it fits)
http://flipperfidelity.com/hardware/williams-bally-speaker-systems/williams-bally-complete-replacement-speaker-system-for-wpc95-machines-215.html
Just have to email them I guess.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:it gets kinda boring after a while when you want it done fast!
You have to quit sitting there watching the paint dry.
My Bride came with white flipper buttons, they were old and worn so I changed them over to red lit ones.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:So, it's that simple =) a red glowing start button would really add to the cab too I think!
Yes it would, let us know if you find a button like that, even a bigger button that would have the housing on the outside of the cab would work better I would think.
That is looking soooo good. That cab is going to be built like a tank. Your doing a fantastic job and having fun too.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Just need to pull it off before we can celebrate =)
I have faith in ya.
Well you can count on me that's for sure. Watching you do it REALLY makes me wish I had the time and the place to do what your doing. 
Hey shimoda, how ya been? I've taken real good care of the girl, cleaned it inside and out, Laseriffic topper, new tl, new red clear shooter rod, new glass, new legs and feet, new rubbers, all leds and some extra ones, I'm only missing the triangle plastic in front of the face box. You have it? Good luck in the hunt my friend.
Are you guys going to put the Stern leg stand offs on your games to prevent the decal wrinkle? My ST shows no sign of wrinkling.
Well thanks anyway, I'll just have to make my own. I have been running in the 40-50 mill. myself when a friend came over and bet us he could hit 1 billion within 1 hour so we took him up on it....56 min. later he call us over and sure enough he was at 1,020,200,000....we just handed him our money. Get the one that has the best pf but I'm sure you know that. I've been toying with the idea of redoing the cab and bb when my garage is finished inside but plans change. Post when ya get one.
Quoted from 85vett:PM sent
Got the pm thanks.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:I meant that if you want to go cheap style you can make some yourself =)
Thanks for the link btw, ill look into it and see what i will buy!
I don't know Andy...if I were you I'd go with the Stern style stand off's. They work great on my MetPro, STPro and new MustangPro.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:@paul, hehe, if there is a tiny bit of dust I won't care as long as it's not too disturbing =) did another layer today and will do the triangular support pieces tomorrow.
Sounds good, just as long as you won't be trying to glue it together over the paint. 
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Let's hope it will work and not fall apart after the first couple of games I play ^^
Yeah.
Are the support rails made of hard wood? They take A LOT of abuse. I'd do the same with the bottom board, very nice. Yup take your time on the gluing it will make or break the cab. Hope ya have enough pipe clamps for the gluing.
You should need 8 clamps and remember to keep checking for squareness and flatness as you clamp. Pictures too.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Allright! =) I will see what I can do. For squareness, do you mean 90 degree angles on the inside and so on, like in every corner?
Yup every corner. When you had it temporaraly together did you see how your pf sat in it?
Quoted from Ed209:Pro tip. Paint the start button hole black before applying decals.
Yup and sand the heck out of it so it's just as smooth as the rest of the cab. Makes cleaning much easier.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Also if I get wider ones they wont go in as deep as the smaller, I mean proportionally to their width... I am concidering it but it feels the smaller ones should do just as good.. convince me =)
Well with the #12's they are bigger around which, in my thinking gives the screw more of a "bite" into the wood. I got the 3/4in long #12's and used a washer to make sure it didn't pop out the outer side of the cab. On the back side of the HD leg braces is a pressed in round threaded nut, when I was screwing in a leg bolt that pressed in nut spun so I couldn't tighten the bolt anymore. Turned out to be a cross threaded bolt. I pounded the nut back down and it worked fine with a new bolt. It I had it to do over again I would take those plates over to my friend and have him put a few spot welds on the sides of those nuts to prevent them from spinning.
Oh man that is looking sooooo nice, super clean but with that nice new factory look......but better then the factory look of course. 
Did you get the new Stern style leg stand-offs for the legs? The cab decals will look beautiful forever with those on.
If your worried about the glue breaking just put 2 more screws in below the 2 on top, one on either side just above the break. It will be on there for good then and will never break and it will look good too.
Take your time buddy, Rome wasn't built in a day as the saying goes. Those HD leg braces with the welded nuts are going to make the pin a "rock".
The lit start button will really dress-up the cab front.
For a cab speaker look at partsexpress.com. I just received 8 for my games that could use new ones. Model # 294-2703. I think that's the number. Haven't installed them yet but they look pretty good from the description and price.
Also, get the new Stern style leg stand off's, you cab decals will look great years down the road.
Yes please post more pictures.
Are you going to get the new speaker panel plastic, I just ordered mine and are you going to get the new bg that just came out?
Quoted from TAB:Have sold my machine today.
So much hours of work in it. Not so perfect as yours.
...with tears in my eyes she's gone.
But junkyard want her place
Thanks again for your fabulous documention
200 points
Major bummer. How could you sell that beautiful girl?
Those leg braces look MINT and the black screws top it off. Did you order the Stern leg standoff's yet, they are a must with the new cab decals. My speaker panel came today and it looks great compared to the old original and the new bg will be here next week. The way the new start button sits higher then the old flush mount button will really save your new decals, people won't be reaching down and poking the decal looking for the start button. I may have to do that to mine. Keep up the great work Andy.
I tried taking pictures but the fine scratches and the dullness from years of cleaning just don't show up in a photo but you can really see it in person.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Speaking of the speaker panel, here are some pics of mine. Its not flawless but allright.. might look into getting a new one but if I dont find one im good with the old one:
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Tnuts.jpg 64 KB
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minipfbefaft.jpg 277 KB
Maybe you could try to flame polish it. Don't know how the ink on the back might react though.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:And, I have started some small assemblies here and there. Like the pinbot mini playfield. This is the original one after the restoration. I bought a new one too but I will use that one as a spare. I bought the rubbers over a year ago and of course one small post rubber was missing in the bag. Will be an easy fix though
And a before and after picture:
By the way, the top right rubber looks a bit sloppy... is it supposed to be like that or did I miss something?
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Tnuts.jpg 64 KB
minipfbefaft.jpg 277 KB
You really should put the new one on, with the amount of plays your game is going to see it will look perfect for your lifetime. I have the Comet Crystal Fan bulbs in mine and it's still dark back there I'm going to put their new red with the white bottom lights on mine. That will REALLY light that whole area and the mini pf.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:By the way, the top right rubber looks a bit sloppy... is it supposed to be like that or did I miss something?
Mines just like yours.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:If they are called T-nuts... not 100% sure but like 98%.
Yes T-nuts.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:The documentation... thanks, its half the fun!
and talking with people who have the same passion for the game that are thousands of miles away.
Quoted from kapsreiter:yes!
greetings from a new Bride in AUSTRIA
http://www.freaktech.at/website/Meine_Sammlug/Seiten/Bride_of_Pinbot.html
Cool, Austria. Welcome and VERY nice looking Bride.
Yup, that's the way to do it. I was a silk screen printer for a few years at a big screen shop. At the time I had the screen maker make me a small screen and I made some T-shirts and sold them. Your info is spot on.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:The results:
In my case I used too thick ink... so the H and E and some of the ; ' s of the text did not print. Dont panic if this happens! What I did was to wait like 24 hours (or as long that is needed for the paint to dry, again, do some tests before trying this at home!) and then aligned the frame (that was super cleaned) back on the printed text. I then took a tiny amount of ink to cover the missing text and did a "fill in print". Its not like 110% perfect but it looks pretty nice and will do. No one will ever inspect it that close in the dark on the back of the machine.
So, now the patents text is no longer missing!
Just need to add some new stickers now.Looks 110% to me.
patents3.jpg 126 KB
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Just one thing... hehe.. of course it is a lot better to do this back side print BEFORE glueing the cabinet together!
Mostly because its a lot more practical to repaint the backside when its a single piece of wood if you screw it but also because you dont have to flip the machine standing on the front vertically hehe.. maybe next time
Yup, live and learn.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:And BTW i bought the screen kit from pinside user merfeldma, thanks a lot!
Don't know if he still has them for sale but wanted to give him some cred!
Good to know.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:@lb1, thanks! =) I used a paint from the brand alcro. It's called servalac if I remember correctly (not sure it's available in outside of Europe though). And it's semi gloss. I did paint it with a paint gun and the paint is water based. It's the first time I've done it and it came out pretty nice. The color is an almost perfect match but I might have added a bit too much water or made the surfaces too fine. I would have liked the paint to stick better to the wood, it's absolutely alright but when drilling a hole or something it feels like it's a little easy to scrape it of with a sharp object. Next time I will try something more toxic just to see if there is any difference. Might just be me being over careful and having this feeling. Anyways, the paint works and I'm good with it but still a bit paranoid =)
Concerning the water slide decals, I do not know of anyone who tried them. Never heard of them actually. Sounds tricky to me but might be worth a try if you don't feel like messing with paint, thinner and a lot of towels.
Not to downplay your paint job Andy but I would have used an enamel, it's a lot tougher.
Don't you go screwing it up because your in a hurry. 
I don't want to read about all the crying. 
You can always come over and play mine to get a fix. 
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Hehe, dont worry.. I wont rush it.. If it was a little closer i wouldve came by, for now Ill have to play the video game version which is not exactly the same but at least something
Good man.
Now that it's all clean and new no reason to have it in the garage and it's getting colder out too. I can see the big diff. in all the pics. Keep up the great work.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Latest update:
When i was repairing the power driver board a long time ago I decided I would put some cooling paste (same thing as you use on the processor and heatsink when building a computer) under the heatsink on top of the two BRs. I made a mind note about it and to my surprise it was still there today when I took out the board from storage! So, below are some pics of what i did, not so interesting maybe but always something. First, undscrew the heatsink, two, clean up the old cooling paste (works with a tiny bit of denaturated alcohol) from the BRs and the heatsink, add some paste and screw the heatsink back.I am prepping the cabinet for the decals now that I have made sure the holes for the backbox hinges are in the right place. So any day there will be some pics of the finished cab!
paste.jpg 165 KB
That's a new one on me.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Also did this today, if its worth doing its worth over doing...
panel.jpg 185 KB
If you REALLY want to over do it paint the sides of the 4 holes white to reflect ALL the light and switch the bulbs to flex. NOW your over doing it.
The led comes out of the socket on 2 stiff wires about half an inch and can be bent to shine at any angle. Pinballbulbs and Comet both have them. You'll "get" how they work when you see them. ALL the light of the bulb goes where you point them.
Oh is that nice. Looks like it layed down really smooth because of the exceptional surface prep. 
Keep it goin.
Quoted from 85vett:Looks pretty good. If you still want a new one I stumbled across this last night when buying some transparent rubbers from them.
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/the-machine-bride-pinbot-display-cover-p-6572.html?language=english
That's a darn good price and the shipping probably won't kill ya Andy.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Dont forget to clean it after sanding or disaster will strike. A damp cloth will do and maybe a vacuum cleaner in combination with it.
A tack rag designed for woodworking dust removal works the best. Your girl is getting better looking every day.
From what I've read it's best to make the cutouts after it's all down. They always have some metal part that has an overhang to them, like a bolt head or the coin door frame.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:A mile stone has been reached today. All the decals are successfully in place on the cab!
Now it's time to put the top back on, some new speakers, repro stickers and labels and... the legs.. Oh wait I have not bought the protectors yet.. Even though Ive been reminded long ago. Well any day soon!
Time has come for looking into the playfield restoration. That will be a journey of its own. I'm planning to follow vid1900's guide for ultimate playfield restoration. Any tips and look outs are very welcome!
More to come soon!
GREAT. Put some pictures up when ya get the head on.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Did try that a few days ago but it seems the plastic is harder than for example ramps so it did not make much of a difference. And I did not want to push it in case I would ruin the panel. (It's the speaker/display panel that was discussed earlier in the thread in case someone wonders) So now we've got an answer to it. At least had to try =)
You over there can get a new one cheaper then I did, mine was $87 with free shipping so give it another try, a new one won't cost you as much if it gets messed up. I'm good at spending other peoples money aren't I.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yes it's intimidating but if I don't try I won't ever learn. Should be possible if you plan it carefully and take no short cuts. I've tested the airbrush and it works with the createx colors I bought so that's one step. Next is to sand and clean the PF, level out screw holes and things. I'm looking into ways of tackling the inserts now and also what clear to use, where to do it etc so I've got plenty to think about =)
I'll say you do.
Quoted from Curbfeeler:Don't be afraid to experiment with different products. I just restored a Pinbot which I documented on here. I used roll Frisket for some stuff, but I much preferred "Badger Foto Frisket Transfer Paper" in the blue package that you buy in sheets. I also used a ton of Tamiya Model Masking tape, and used that almost exclusively to mask the chest inserts. I liked the thinner stuff that will bend around curves. I was scared when I used it that it was going to leave a film and ruin my clear, but it didn't. Turned out great, in fact.
Since the pinball restore community is kind of small, I tend to look for results from other hobbies. When I was in doubt about using SprayMax 2k, I went to motorcycle forums. When I was in doubt about whether the Silohouette Cameo would make sufficient cuts for masking pinball airbrush material, I went to model railroad and helicopter forums. I'm always surprised how much of that kind of stuff transfers over from hobby to hobby.
Best of luck!
Dan
Great suggestions Dan.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Allright! Good to know =)
I wonder what to do with the inserts... most of them has a lot of artwork on them and not only the black text. I asked for suggestions here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-inserts-with-lots-of-art-bop
When you get the pf stripped sounds like you'll have to take a close-up picture of each and using PhotoShop rework it and then make a water slide of each one. Just a guess cuz I've never done it.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yep thats too bad, but I know one thing for sure and that is, that when I have almost assembled the whole thing the repros will become available. Just to give me the thrill of disassemble it again, order one and then assemble again
Should go twice as fast then.
Really plastic? I wonder how they will work, looks like your the tester for this part. Now toss those leg bolts and get the show quality ones from the Refinery...$38 a set.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Hehe.. trying to make me spend more money again?
Yup. I just bought 2 sets of them one for Avatar LE and one STPro which I put the candy blue legs on.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:cupped in convex style.
Cupped would mean that they are concave. Be very careful you don't take any wood out of the bottom of the insert hole or the insert won't sit flush and scuff up the sides of the insert when you glue them in. I'm on the edge of my chair watching this.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Yes, concave is cupped but what would it be called if it's convex? Couldn't find a word. Maybe just convex..
Domed is the word your looking for. I'm nervous for ya, the pf stuff can get pretty nuts real fast but you've done such a wonderful job so far I know you'll do a wonderful job on the pf.
Sounds like you should pop out all your inserts. It will REALLY turn out nice then. I know you'll be much happier then.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Oh, 8 more posts and then this old thread hits the 1000 posts mark! Need to celebrate that in some way when it happens
Lookin good. Now only 7.
Hey Andy half way through a game my right sling went dead but I still put up a score of 26 million. I checked the 2 leaf switches and both aren't getting power, crap.
Quoted from 85vett:Check to see if your right outlane, left stand up (5K) target and the outhole are working. They are all on that same string. It's possible the the power for that string went dead. If the others are working and it's just the sling give the diode a test.
OP - 3 post left
Thanks, that's the first thing I checked, to see if anything else had power out and everything else has power.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:its getting closer to the super critical step of clear..
Don't you mean the super critical step of painting THEN clearing? Keep up the great work.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:I am going to shoot a layer of clear before painting. It's possible to paint first then do the final layers of clear but the advantage of clearing first is that you can lock down bare wood fibers, get a smooth surface over inserts and other areas, see the dulled down paint better, attach decals that should have clear under them in combination with painting, and it's easier to correct mistakes if you can sand off paint and not damage the original paint since you have a protective layer under it. Also the risk of frisket lifting original paint is eliminated. At least according to vids guide. I think it all makes sense so will try it! Just need to think twice if there's anything I should fix before its forever locked down in the clear...
I see.
Hey Andy I just added Comets pop cap rings, red on top white on bottom and boy do they ever light up the pf around the pops and the upper mini pf above them. I actually see the ball in the space now. It looks GREAT. Thought you'd like to see how it looks if you want to do it. They are at max brightness right now, gonna play it for a while and see if I have to turn the brightness down a little.
IMGA0537.JPG
IMGA0538.JPG
IMGA0539.JPG
IMGA0543.JPG
IMGA0544.JPGThanks but the more I look at it the more I think the red jewel caps with red/white rings would look better, I might give that a try and I like they way I can see the stars on the pf by the pops. I left the red incandesents in the helmet to match the pop color and because I like the way they fade, with leds that would not happen.
Very red spotted. That's why I've been thinking of getting the jewel caps to help break-up that hot spotting. I have red jewel caps with red/white rings on other games and it really does help spread out the light.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:(Paul, he beat you to it but im sure you can find something else for me to buy.. ^^)
Not that expensive that's for sure. If you can handle PS I'm sure you can get a handle on this. I've never done any vectoring but I know you get great results. Have fun with it.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:(whats the word for those? plastic sticks with cotton on the ends..)
Cotton swab. They also make foam ones too. That stuff is most likely glue, I hope it wasn't the kind of glue that melts plastic.
Quoted from anubis2night:just thought I'd mention that if you guys ever need a hand vectoring some artwork and have the scanned art send it on over. I have illustrator and a Cintiq and I'd be happy to help out. (please note it would be helpful if the artwork scanned and sent over are actual sized, which shouldn;t have to be said but you wouldn't believe what is sent out at times lol...)
at any rate I'm happy to lend a hand guys
great thread btw
GREAT offer.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Found a very in depth guide on replacing the speakers here:
http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_wooden_display_panel_an.html
It covers bop too, must be the one and only time I e read something that applies to the same thing you're dealing with. Most often it's a similar item with some variations.
So far so good but I still need to know if I should remove the coil/filter for the tweeter. The FF speakers for the backbox seem to be "general purpose" and not tweeters or does not have tweeters in the middle of them so is it safe to abandon the choke filter coil? Also want to know if it would sound terrible if I put in the new ones without cutting out larger holes in the display panel. I'm afraid I will damage it.. The question about the spacer or no spacer for the bottom cab speaker also remains. Anyone an expert in this field?
Wish I could help but I know zip.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Always respected them but now it's more evident what work they put into all this. And anyone saying a repro PF is too expensive is wrong! =)
So.. not that many news on the project for a couple of weeks. I'm still waiting for the new inserts. The package with them has arrived but I have not been able to pick them up for various reasons. But hopefully I will the coming week then I will continue.
The speaker issue I have sorted out too. Flipper fidelity has some other sizes too and I will get two new ones for the backbox that will fit better so I don't need to cut in the original panel. Also I've confirmed that the choke/coil for the tweeter doesn't need to be there with the new speakers. It had no use unless you put in another tweeter as I understand it. More on this later, I will recap my findings when it's all done.
It's interesting times because when the speakers are in place it's time to Fire the game up for the first time since before the teardown! Hopefully the display and sound will work even though the PF is not hooked up. It will be pretty darn exciting!
Sounds good.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Sorry for keeping my good old followers waiting...
Don't worry about it. There is life outside of pinball.
Quoted from BadBrad97:You give up yet?
God I hope not. He's my hero.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Hi Brad and Paul! =)
Thinking of the project every day but the life outside of pinball is taking up too much time right now. I have not given up and I won't do it either! I will be back as soon as I can. The thing is I had to wait to pick up the new inserts I ordered cause I managed to lose my ID card so I could not retrieve the package So I started to tear down my HS a bit more and even "just happened" to pick up an ID4 as well.. and so I started to work on that, small things like cleaning up etc. I dont want to do a hasty job on the BOP PF and whats left of it will take some continous sessions of like 3 hours each time to wrap my head around it etc. So, my 30 minutes here and there wont do it. They fit better for cleaning up and tearing down the other games small steps at a time.
I have come to realize that this is where you end up when you get into pinball, a couple of projects going on at the same time till you go crazy. Im lucky because im armed with great patience and I am aware of the situation so I wont go crazy and give up.
Hang in there and Ill be back all of a sudden, and hopefully sooner than later!
/ Andy
Thanks for that Andy, we knew you didn't give up. Are you on Facebook? I put up a 3:30 vid of my Mustang start up, first time it's been started in 24 years. Man is it cool.
Quoted from mollyspub:I haven't started mine in 5 years...I don't feel so bad anymore!
Mine was in a heated shop all that time though. Where has yours been stored? Did you fog the cylinders? Heated storage I hope. It's the temp. changes that kill them.
Quoted from TheRingMaster:Paul, that's awesome! Really cool thing to experience after 24 years! Unfortunately I'm not on fb cause I think there's too much of it everywhere and ppl getting obsessed. But I know there are benefits too these days since everyone is using it so maybe I should fire my account back up.
Will post some bop updates as soon as possible
Just like with anything else Andy (ESPECIALLY pinball) ya gotta go easy on it or it'll take over your life. Look who's talking, me...Mister 16 pinball machines later.
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Saint Paul, MN
