(Topic ID: 128058)

Bride of Pinbot playfield cleaning confusion

By Morydees

4 years ago

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  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Morydees
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 4 years ago

Hey guys. I've done some searching on this and have a rough idea of what I can and can't do. That said, some posts are years old and there's some slight conflict so I just want to make sure there wasn't some new information I missed. Appreciate any input!

First off, I understand the System 11s are a bit risky when it comes to mylar removal and mine is in good enough shape (minor bubbling) that I have no plans to pull it. That said, there's some slight swirling/pitting I'd like to try to remove (see pic) in addition to some swirling on some ball paths and non-mylar areas. So here's my rough plan.

Mylar: Novus 2 + elbow grease in straight lines (no swirling motions) to remove light pitting/swirls. May not be a huge difference but shouldn't cloud it further where Novus 3 might (being more abrasive).

Non-mylar: Here's where I'm stuck. I've read Magic Eraser + alcohol works great but it also removes the clearcoat. And I also read "wax is no substitute for clearcoat". Being that I don't have the skills/time to a full re-clear, do I have any other options besides just leaving it? Perhaps something less abrasive than ME?

Finishing: 100% Carnauba wax (Kit brand, paste style) on both mylar/non-mylar playfield surfaces + toothbrush to clean out excess wax on the posts since I wont be removing everything first. Does that sound right?


#2 4 years ago

you need to be very careful with that ME. ME is abrasive and will not only remove the thin layer of Lacquer on the non-diamond plate finish, but will also remove paint from your PF. I would be very reluctant to use it beyond just a slight rubbing with it but not much or you could remove paint.

#3 4 years ago

Right, I've read that about the ME in various threads. My concern was more about removing the clearcoat though. Is that as big a concern as some made it out to be? Or is it possibly already gone on a 26 year old machine anyway?

If the CC is not a big deal, I would just go very, very slowly with the ME making sure to avoid any large cracks that may get worse and wax it after. This is for a home use machine by the way. Thanks!

#4 4 years ago

Does yours have a clear coat? My understanding is that only very few were done with diamond coat, the majority are with lacquer.

I would advise caution on the non mylard areas of the playfield. On my BoP, I clean it using Novus 2 but it still manages to lift some of the paint here an there, especially the black for some reason. My playfield is somewhat planked though so I think that's why the paint lifts easier than maybe a clean example.

#5 4 years ago

Oops, I just assumed there was some sort of coat on it from the factory. I'm not aware of any specifically added clearcoat or diamond-plate so maybe I'm just confusing machines from other threads. That's mainly why I wanted to ask first, just in case BoP was different somehow.

So if it's just lacquer and not extra coated (I'll check under the glass tonight), it sounds like some careful Novus 2 on the non-mylar is probably a safer choice than anything ME related. Is that right?

#6 4 years ago

You'd be able to tell if it were Diamond Plate as it's printed on the play field:


I use Novus 2 and have never tried anything else so I'm probably not the best person to ask. However like I said, even with Novus 2 I have paint lifting due to mine being (almost not visibly) planked.

#7 4 years ago

Thanks for the pic! I guess I don't have diamond-plate as I'm missing that logo. So it seems like Novus 2 for everything is the way to go, albeit with the possibility of some lifting.

The bottle I have is about a decade old so I'll grab a newer one and give it a shot on some inconspicuous corners first to see how it goes.

#8 4 years ago

Thanks everyone. The Novus 2 on the mylar worked pretty darn well as evidenced by the pic below. Right side is untouched and left side is one pass with the Novus. Unfortunately, it didn't seem to make much of a dent on the painted surfaces. It did lighten some of the dark smudges but you can still see much of the swirling. Then again, I didn't want to push too hard for fear of damaging the paint.

Thanks again.

#9 4 years ago

all of the games even old games have a clear coat, its was just clear lacquer before they "invented" diamondplate. ME can be used. but you need to be careful the clear lacquer wll be rubbed away, then the art, then the white layer to wood. If you have a DP field you'll ME away the diamondplate then the art then the white then the wood. The DP is just more resistant to being worn away then the old lacquer.

#10 4 years ago

Thanks pinballcollector, I figured there was something on there because I can see the slight shine in areas that aren't worn. Given how little luck I had with Novus in the trouble spots, I think I'll try the ME/alcohol approach in a spot that's not easily seen just to get a feel for it. If anything gets out of control, I'll just leave it be.

#11 4 years ago

Novus 2 is a very mild abrasive. It would take an awful lot of rubbing to cause damage. Magic erasers are pretty aggressive in comparison. Start with the Novus and only move onto the ME if you find an area that has heavy swirl marks. I think that you'll find the Novus is enough for the majority of issues.

#12 4 years ago

The lacquer williams used on the sys11 and even non DP WPC games typically turns yellow/ambers and you can definitely see the difference between the factory mylar covered part of the PF and where no mylar was applied. If you use too much effort with ME, you will remove the yellowed lacquer (that's why it will appear to be cleaning/brightening up but what you are doing is removing the layer of yellowed lacquer and next is paint and then the white undercoat on the PF.. Yikes..

#13 4 years ago

So...I will say be friggin careful. The last Bride I shopped had a nasty playfield and using ME I got out a lot of the dirt, but not all of it. And the discoloration...you may be able to ease it, but it won't go away.

But there is a very fine point between cleaning it and being too aggressive. And after you do ANY deep cleaning make sure you wax the heck out of the playfield to protect it. When you clean with anything abrasive, you will absolutely be removing a layer of color, even a thin one. So you need to protect the heck out of it.

#14 4 years ago

Thanks for all the advice guys. I did take it easy and decided to just stick with Novus where I could and things came out pretty good. Anything that might require ME isn't bad enough that I'm going to risk it just yet. Appreciate the confirmations!

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