Machine: Bride of Pinbot, The
Williams, 1991Hi. I'm new here and an admitted novice when it comes to troubleshooting and repair. I bought my first machine about 4 months ago and except for having to fix a few stuck gates, it has played flawlessly until now. Starting today, I can't get through a game without the whole field and flippers shutting down and the display reading "TESTING 50002 REV-5" It then resets as if the game has ended. Any suggestions?
That is what is shows when the game is booting up.
So discount any "diagnostic" switch stuff or other solutions - your game just seems to be resetting itself.
Your flipper is missing a capacitor, yes, but that shouldn't be resetting your game especially if it's not right when the flipper is pushed. Test your power and make sure your power supply is good. Has it been rebuilt?
Thanks. My text was lost in my previous post. I've experimented and the reboot seems to eventually be triggered by the right flipper. I don't have a meter handy, but I ran an extension cord to a different circuit in the house and that didn't make any difference. Can I pick up that capacitor at any electronics store?
It's not the flipper capacitor. You've got a low 5V on your game.
Game off, open the backbox and reseat J101, J102 and J114 on the power driver board. Reseat J210 (whatever the one is on the right side of the CPU).
Turn game on and play. If it works, it's just letting you know that you have a flaky connection. Eventually you'll have to replace them. If it still resets, then we go to the next level. But try this first as it's easy and cheap.
Thanks for the suggestion. I reseated those connection as suggested and it's still resetting. I'm pretty convinced the right flipper is triggering it. With the glass off I can bounce the ball offf everything and use the left flipper as long as I want without the machine resetting. Could the diode in the flipper coil be the culprit? The soldered connections are clean and solid. I'm wondering if the diode might have been exposed to shorting because the capacitor wasn't there.
Regardless of how you may think the diode failed, the problem would be the diode itself. (How it happened is a moot point)
To properly test a diode you need to remove one leg from the circuit (desolder it), and then test it on your meter's continuity test setting (looks like a diode schematic marking and sometimes a "sound"/sound beacon icon). Touch each side of the diode with a lead. (Both of different ends)
Regardless of the results, now flip them so they are touching each others' ends. (Swap leads in each hand)
If the diode is working properly, you should get a continuity reading on one side and not the other. If both or neither sides get a reading, replace the diode with a proper one.
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