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Quoted from jamesmc:Just joined the club. Really fun, unique game.
Very nice. Just needs a ColorDMD.
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Wait, what? Is that an option for Breakshot?
Sigma is not officially supported yet, so there is occasional flickering. You can see back on post #95 that I installed a LED Sigma ColorDMD in a friend's game and set it on yellow. I had to make my own power cable adapter.
I also put a LCD Sigma in my Pinball Magic.
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Ah, ok. I was thinking they did a fully colorized version of Breakshot, which would be pretty awesome.
Some day I will get a Color DMD.......someday.
Chris
Oh no. Not yet. You will see the news posted in this club once it has been colorized. You will not miss it when it happens.
Is it even in attract mode? It doesn't appear to be from the non lit inserts I see in the picture. If it is not, then you need to check 5 volts on the driver board.
If there is no 5 volts, then you test the traces of the big capacitors on the driver board. The feedthroughs usually get damaged because of the weight of the capacitors, being the size and how far they stick out from the board.
You can run wires on the backside of the board or do the solder stitch to fix the feedthrough.
Here is one thread showing how GOV got around the bad feedthroughs. I know there is another repair thread I helped with the exact same issue and I cannot locate it right now.
I have in the past, used solder wick in the feedthroughs by soldering the traces on the top and bottom side of the board so you really could not notice the repair. Running a wire is an option, but easily noticeable if once you turn over the board.
If you have LEDs in the pop bumpers, it will not matter there is thinner gage wire since LEDs draw less current. I have yet to hear of anyone having any issues with thinner gage wire with regular bulbs in any Capcom pin.
Reseat your ribbon cable between the MPU and the big driver board. I had to replace it on 2 Breakshots I worked on in the past.
Sounds like you need a new ribbon cable. Marco has them. I think the big black flat ferrite was being held by that, which looks like hot glue to me.
What is J9? I don't have a Breakshot here. I have a Pinball Magic and some boards are not the same.
Quoted from Gryszzz:Would that also affect my sound? Will get new ribbon cable asap.
I suspect also when your DMD is scrambled that the game was not in attract mode. Was it? If not, then the game was not booted up. No boot=no sound either.
Quoted from Gryszzz:After continuous reseatings, the game is playing though. Just no sound.
I need to do some testing to see if the ribbon cable might be related to no sound as well. Likely be this time tomorrow before I can get back with an answer if no one else has any other leads.
Quoted from Gryszzz:Dumb question....does Alltek make a power supply board that can go in this?
No and I do not think you need another power supply. Start with getting a new ribbon cable for sure.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RC00103-1
Looks like the main description is wrong on the webpage, but it is correct one stating 26 pin in the body of the ad. I'll email Marco about it.
Oops... I forgot that my Pinball Magic is out on loan. Might be a bit tough getting to my friends house to look into other possible sound issues. Was there something you touched earlier to make the sound come on?
Quoted from Gryszzz:Thanks Boat. Yes, it blinks. I ran the "reset sound board?" diagnostic and it said this:
How many times does the LED on the sound board blink, pause then repeats?
Quoted from beepnutz:So I have 1.5 and have noticed the sound bite for extra ball is missing, might be a few others missing, maybe I should get 1.3? Or is the problem in a sound rom? Anybody have any idea?
The v.B.1.5 appears you are running the beta version. Marco shows v1.3 as the latest game ROM and v1.1 sound ROMs.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/950?S_CAT1=ELEC
There should be printed labels on your sound ROMs so you should be able to tell what you currently have installed.
Quoted from erak:Hi. I'm wondering if anyone else has come across this?
I have 1.0.0 ROMs and the ferrite ring service bulletin is done.
I still sometimes get the odd "slam" on power up.
A quick power cycle and it's fine. And other times it boots right away.
Is this a old code issue. Or a problem somewhere else?
Suggestions?
Thanks, Eric.
That does not sound like a code issue.
Is your slam switch contacts too close on the coin door? I would spread the leaf switch out to be sure.
You can even go into the switch edge test and tap on the coin door to see if it registers and to see if any random switches register after a few minutes.
I service 2 Breakshots for my friends, which their games have v1.0 and never have experienced this issue at power up.
Put the game in switch edge test and let it set for 30 minutes and come back to see if it registered any random intermittent switches. I had to do this on my Pinball Magic to track down an intermittent issue I had in the game. Turned out I had intermittent connectors at J6, J7, J9 at the CPU board on the .100" wired connectors. I was able to wiggle the wires there and cause the issue more often.
Quoted from Jerickso77:Is there any trick to updating the roms or do you simply swap chips?
Just swap chips.
Send the boards for repair if you do not feel you can fix any current issues. I repaired 2 breakshots 4 years ago and they are still running good to this day. I don't see any day in the next 10 years that someone would not be able to repair a board, if needed. Why keep worry of something that may not even happen? Get the game running and enjoy playing it.
Quoted from Diospinball:Because, he said they shorted cos of something coming undone on my pinball machine.
I try my best to keep them up and running. But, what if something pops off again without me knowing and blows it. I'm just worried. And I still know nothing about pinball repair. I'm trying to learn, but I suck at it.
I will say it will rare such a thing as something just popping off will be the cause of a problem. Just keep reading Pinside and Pinwiki and you will keep learning to take care of issues you did not think you ever would have realized you could ever had.
Quoted from Diospinball:I'm going to get my friend to help me.
Hey, that is ok too. Some people need to see things in person to learn. Nothing wrong with that. We all learn in different ways and at different rates. Even just trying will be a benefit.
Quoted from Marvin:socket vs no socket
Easier to change U22 and U23 being they are in a socket.
Maybe send one or both sound boards off to http://coinopcauldron.com/brepairs.html ?
Sometimes prototype/sample boards have sockets installed to make it easy to change parts for in case they wanted to test out different vendor parts.
Do you know for sure if John Wart, Jr. does repair Capcom boards? He doesn't show on his website that he does and it doesn't seem like he is taking any other board repair at this time. http://thatpinballplace.com/repair/
v1.3 game ROM is the latest and it is on 2 EPROMS on the CPU board.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/EPROM1218
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/EPROM1219
Quoted from Gryszzz:It was pointed out to me that U24 running v 1.0.3 Is NOT the same as 1.3. So hopefully that solves this conundrum. Doh.
Hopefully my idiocracy will help someone in the future.
Game code v1.0.3 will show on the DMD when it boots up. V1.3 is only the labeling on the game ROM itself. I'm not sure of the sound ROMs as I don't have access to a Breakshot today, but will tomorrow.
FYI. Game ROM and sound ROM don't always have the same version numbers. Marco shows latest sound ROMs to be v1.1. Currently, I am just unsure if the sound version is reported on the DMD as v1.1 or as v1.0.1.
According to the manual, Breakshot should be using the A0021701 sound board. These untested board may or may not come with U24 installed. If you plan on ordering one, I would email the seller to find that out as the one in your current 2 boards likely is not the correct U24. http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/second-hand/boards/a0021701.html
Quoted from Gryszzz:Maniac, I already bought a tested, 2nd sound board from Boat. It works.
This board you bought has sound?
Quoted from Gryszzz:It had the blips and bongs, which my original board did not. Steve at Marco confirmed the U24v1.0.3 isn't gonna work with 1.1 sound roms. Now just trying to find U24v1.3 which apparently is unobtanium. Unless you burn yer own roms, which I don't. Might be the only option.
So it is still not a working board, just that it does more than the other at this time. Did Steve suggest this part number board should work in Breakshot?
Quoted from Riffbear:Im thinking of getting this game.. Only issue it has is the centre mech isn't working. (The steel round piece that goes up and down locks the balls etc) Is that an easy fix?
Thanks!
Inagree with LTG. Do not hesitate getting the game. At worse that feature may not work but at least the game is playable. Also Pinside is here to help.
One game I worked on only had a coil wire break off from a coul lug.
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:You're killing me Smalls!
Just added Pinball Magic. Now I think I must have this!!! Looks amazing!
Chris
Did you install one in Breakshot yet?
Quoted from Cinder143:Hi all, I have a Capcom Pinball Magic and the display driver board has gone bad. I am told the Breakshot driver borad part # A0015505 is compatible. Would anyone here have one they want to sell? Thanks
If you install a ColorDMD, no DMD power board is needed. Just sayin....
Quoted from yaksplat:So now my questions start...
Does anyone know where these can be sourced or what the part numbers are? Someone cranked down on the screws and there are all a mess.[quoted image]
So you find the number in the manual, an internet search should find who all carries them.
Good. If you looked that many times, I don't expect to be in there. I don't recall anyone ever asking either. I just did a general internet search for yellow lane guide, so doesn't seem possible to get a Capcom part. You probably could find one closest looking through them all. Seems like it may had been off the shelf part.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=yellow+lane+guide
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=yellow+lane+guide
Shopping by category for Breakshot shows Marco has some plastics.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/950?S_CAT1=PFLD
Usually 2 1/2 weeks is the earliest you could get parts from Australia.
Possible with the shipping part of it, the Australia plastics may or may not be cheaper than on the ones from here. http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/Breakshot_Page.html
Quoted from DCRand:Thanks and checked diodes visually. Also interesting that the actual slam switch doesn’t cause a slam tilt. Only switches 21, 53, and 61. How’s that for random. May not be able to work on it tonight. But will try again soon.
It is not just the diode you have to worry about. You have to make sure the white and green wires are going to the correct pins of the switch. If one switch is wired wrong or the diode is pointing the wrong direction, that is when it can cross over to other partial random column or row of switches.
Look over the one switch carefully that is not working.
Quoted from DCRand:Glad Vegas a blast. Agree that phof disappoints. Lots of potential, but.....
As for Breakshot. Checked closed switches against switch matrix in book. Definite pattern. Just not sure what it means. May be hard to see, but pencil dots show closed switches. And the don’t work on PF.[quoted image]
Just to be clear, which switch numbers are the ones not working?
So what I would do first is reseat the switch matrix wiring at the MPU to see if that helps. Many Capcom games I find I have to repin these connectors.
2019-10-20 00_49_28-Internet Pinball Machine Database_ Capcom 'Breakshot' Images (resized).png088365452374b3173ad2c32176c5b0d15f82a750.jpeg (resized).jpg
Now I can view the video in Firefox browser. Seems that was an Internet Explorer issue for me.
Looks like you have switch 70 -CNTR PocKeT right stuck closed and at times switch 64-R.top lane and 30 Tilt Bob are registering. Can you post a picture of the wiring to these switches? Seems one may be wired wrong to the diode. Switch 70 could just be permanently closed for some reason.
Quoted from DCRand:Thanks, may be a while before I get back to it. Family medical stuff. Will post progress when get back to it.
Wish your family well, so you can get back some more joy in your life.
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:If I go back to 1.3 you can have it if you want.
I vote for it to go to nerbflong so he can update the color ROM.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Success!! Joined the club on Tuesday but had to pick up a 7-day stretch at work to pay for it!
Just finally got to play the crap out of it today!!
Looks great in the new lineup and it’s just a gem.
This game is absolutely a keeper.
I’m probably gonna grab the Cliffy’s for this.
Any other recommendations for maintenance and such? I’ve never owned a modern game, let alone a capcom before.
I’ve been searching for pictures of the cash box and I’ve yet to find any. Did Capcom’s even come with one?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Congrats. ColorDMD looks great in this game! http://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-breakshot-pinball-machine/
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Glad you found this. I thought they were all translites?
Chris
You are confused with him having "backglass" in his post. He means the original factory translite artwork, not the alternative art that is now floating around.
Quoted from stvns78:Are there any 3rd party replacement boards for Breakshot, specifically the Power/Driver board? Mine keeps frying U19 and I have yet to figure it out.
Problem just putting another board it it, with the potential problem in your Playfield, it is likely to damage a replacement board too. I was already warning you about this on your repair thread. I had not yet looked at the schematic to see what potential you have going on.
Even sending out the board for repair will end up with the same result of the underlying issue is in the Playfield.
I highly suggest looking over every switch for one to be touching anything at all...coil, flasher, GI or insert lamp socket.
Quoted from Hammerhead:I have an odd center post issue, in that sometimes the pop up is delayed when the ball passes the opto.
There are two coils for this mech; one to pop the post up and one to release the post from the up position. What appears to be happening is that when the post up coil is supposed to fire the post release coil fires instead, as if it thinks the post is already up. Everything works as it should in test.
Anyone have an idea where to look to fix this? Otherwise the game plays great!
What code is in your game?
V1.3 is the latest version, so I think you should update it. Read me file on IPDB does not go into the details of the code changes.
It has been many years since I worked on a Breakshot with that issue, I don't recall if it was a hardware or software issue.
Quoted from Hammerhead:Updated to V1.3, no difference. If anything the post seems to pop up randomly at times.
That may have been what the game was doing that I worked on. Been too long. I don't have one close by for easy access.
I want to say there was a different issue in the game that was causing the post to act differently than what it should. An opto comes to mind. Can you put the game in switch edge test and let it sit for 30 minutes and see if anything pops up?
They will work. Transmitter optos would be only what I would suspect. If there is an opto in front of that center mechanism, I would change it first. I would only resolder the receiver opto, which rarely fail. That is starting to jog my mind as to what I had found.
I was meaning just let the game sit in switch edge test and walk away. Usually if any transmitter optos are weak they tend to pop up randomly in the switch edge test. Though, at times may only show in game play.
I know a lot of Bally Williams games I have are like how you describe.
Having said that, I think the back black piece might be adjusted down a bit to hold it tighter? Think I did that adjustment in the past on a different game.
Quoted from Hammerhead:On a side note does anyone know why there are two receivers for this o
Fair guess, someone in the past replaced a transmitter with a receiver not knowing any better.
You can tell by the color of the wires which should have the transmitter opto.
Quoted from Hammerhead:Another question - why do the connectors have five positions when the opto boards only need three?
Can you post a picture of this? Same with the other opto connectors in the game too?
I worked on my 2 friends Breakshots, but I only have a Pinball Magic to compare to.
Quoted from Hammerhead:Another question - has anyone ever replaced the post optos? if so what parts did they use? Are they interchangeable between other Capcom games?
Same transmitter and receiver optos from WPC games work in Capcom games, which you can get from Pinball Life.
I only change the optos themselves, never the whole boards.
Quoted from Hammerhead:Aargh, the opto issue continues.
- all optos register except the post optos
- there are no switch issues when using the troubleshooting in the game
- I see no light from the transmitter LED when using my phone
- the receiver does not register when flashing a bright light at it
- voltage across the transmitter pins is 3 VDC
- voltage across the receiver pins is 15 VDC
So....what did you do so far to fix the problem?
Quoted from Hammerhead:other working optos show 0 VDC at both the emitter and receiver
That is strange. Seems you should have 12v to working transmitter optos at least. Are you measuring across the transmitter opto itself? Maybe try using the ground braid wire in the bottom of the cabinet and then touch each side of the transmitter opto.
For the receiver optos, short across the 2 pins while it is in the switch test. At least this will tell you the wiring is good all the way to the CPU board.
Quoted from Hammerhead:- when the optos are out of the game but still in test mode they "see" each other when you wave them in front of each other, but once installed in the game they do not
Sounds like a weak transmitter opto. If you can hold them apart the same distance as they are mounted in the game and still does not register, then it needs to be replaced.
Transmitter optos are on all the time when the game is on and will burn out over time. This is why I just replace all transmitter optos.
Quoted from Hammerhead:Not sure that's it. If the receiver is installed and I insert the transmitter, the optos will register as I'm sliding the transmitter into place (as the optos see each other during installation) but once the transmitter is installed, they no longer register.
Replace it to find out. It fixed one Breakshot I had worked on
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