BREAKSHOT COLORDMD VIDEO PREVIEW!
ColorDMD is excited to announce its 89th title is Breakshot! Breakshot was colored by veteran developer Dave Timmer. Displays are shipping now from our site and through our distributors! http://www.colordmd.com
BREAKSHOT COLORDMD VIDEO PREVIEW!
ColorDMD is excited to announce its 89th title is Breakshot! Breakshot was colored by veteran developer Dave Timmer. Displays are shipping now from our site and through our distributors! http://www.colordmd.com
Quoted from Dmod:BREAKSHOT COLORDMD VIDEO PREVIEW!
ColorDMD is excited to announce its 89th title is Breakshot! Breakshot was colored by veteran developer Dave Timmer. Displays are shipping now from our site and through our distributors! http://www.colordmd.com
This looks amazing! This will likely be my very first colordmd. Thank-you so much for colorizing breakshot!
Quoted from Dmod:BREAKSHOT COLORDMD VIDEO PREVIEW!
ColorDMD is excited to announce its 89th title is Breakshot! Breakshot was colored by veteran developer Dave Timmer. Displays are shipping now from our site and through our distributors! http://www.colordmd.com
You're killing me Smalls!
Just added Pinball Magic. Now I think I must have this!!! Looks amazing!
Chris
I’m bringing my BS to SFGE in a few months, and will install a CDMD for the show. Just swapped the lower flipper mechs completely out for B/W, it was a huge pain in the ass but worth it, I think. This game is turning into a keeper for me, best bang-for-the-buck game I’ve owned since NASCAR, and I love the theme this time.
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:You're killing me Smalls!
Just added Pinball Magic. Now I think I must have this!!! Looks amazing!
Chris
Did you install one in Breakshot yet?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Did you install one in Breakshot yet?
No, have not gotten to ordering it yet.
Chris
Quoted from swampfire:I’m bringing my BS to SFGE in a few months, and will install a CDMD for the show. Just swapped the lower flipper mechs completely out for B/W, it was a huge pain in the ass but worth it, I think. This game is turning into a keeper for me, best bang-for-the-buck game I’ve owned since NASCAR, and I love the theme this time.
Why would you take it the Capcom mechs. They are better than the Williams ones
Quoted from Marvin:Why would you take it the Capcom mechs. They are better than the Williams ones
Ease of maintenance, but I mainly did it because I had a few stripped holes in the original and my hacks were failing.
Quoted from swampfire:Ease of maintenance, but I mainly did it because I had a few stripped holes in the original and my hacks were failing.
Ok that makes sense, I thought you were doing some misguided "upgrade". Capcom are the only flippers better than B/W ones
BS is one of the few games on my want list. I have not had time to read this complete post so if you would please tell me a few things.
1. What type flipper mech's are in the game? Capcom? Williams? Other?
2. I see Color DMD is a must. What other mods are recommended?
3. Is there any difficulty keeping the boards running with Capcom out of business and game quantities low?
4. What can I expect to pay for a game in very good to HUO condition?
5. Anything else I should know. I'm not in a hurry so I can pickup anything I need before I buy the game.
Thanks for any help you provide. Don B (fingersport)
Quoted from fingersport:BS is one of the few games on my want list. I have not had time to read this complete post so if you would please tell me a few things.
1. What type flipper mech's are in the game? Capcom? Williams? Other?
2. I see Color DMD is a must. What other mods are recommended?
3. Is there any difficulty keeping the boards running with Capcom out of business and game quantities low?
4. What can I expect to pay for a game in very good to HUO condition?
5. Anything else I should know. I'm not in a hurry so I can pickup anything I need before I buy the game.
Thanks for any help you provide. Don B (fingersport)
1. it come with capcom flippers, who know what someone did since then.
2. Color isn't a must, but its nice. No mods are needed or recommended on any game, its just crap that causes ball traps and looks like shit.
3. boards are boards, they can be fixed, but it will be hard to find a replacement
4. varies
5. play your games and enjoy them.
Thanks Marvin, now I will just have to keep my eyes open. My guess it will take 2 to 3 years to find one in nice condition.
Quoted from fingersport:Thanks Marvin, now I will just have to keep my eyes open. My guess it will take 2 to 3 years to find one in nice condition.
You might find a nice one sooner than that. Most breakshots seem to be in nice shape; its rarer to find one heavily worn. I'm not sure if they weren't on route much or what the reason for that is. Also, people seem to enjoy the game for a while, and then rotate it out of their lineup, if they have a smaller lineup. Not sure if that's due to shallower gameplay or what. I was casually looking for one, and found a very clean one for a nice price within a year of keeping an eye out. When I bought mine, I saw two others pop up for sale as well. So for a game that had a smaller production run, it still seems to pop up decently often.
Quoted from Marvin:there are only 1000 made and not all survive. But I've never seen one with any significant wear.
I have heard this stat more than once, but for such a relatively low production machine, I seem to see quite a few of them.
Mine was filthy when I got it. I pulled the mylar and the playfield looks like new.
Chris
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:I have heard this stat more than once, but for such a relatively low production machine, I seem to see quite a few of them.
Mine was filthy when I got it. I pulled the mylar and the playfield looks like new.
Chris
they are not that hard to find.
Anybody know where I can get a replacement original translite for BS? Also PSPA( has a decent amount of spare parts for Capcom games) shipping wasn't bad from Australia either.
Pinball spare parts Australia
On the boards comment, the power driver board is unique to breakshot and they are hard to find in good shape. Your best best is to budget a few hundred and get one from PSPA and send to your board guy for a refurb.
Hi
Having a problem with my BS. Once the ball is up past the post in super cue waiting to be knocked into hole, the machine will randomly drop the post and open a two ball game.
Any ideas?
Are you just starting ball o rama?
If not then check the opto connection. The vibration can shake it lose and then the post does weird things.
Quoted from Jerickso77:Are you just starting ball o rama?
If not then check the opto connection. The vibration can shake it lose and then the post does weird things.
It’s right after the first ball is locked behind post. Good call on opto, switches worked in test mode, I’ll go back into test and mess with them.
Just push on the connector. If it's loose it will probably still pass the test but weird things can still happen.
Quoted from TomDK:I am out of the club ... after several years with my beautifull Breakshot.
But I still have a nearly NOS playfield here. It is dimpled and drilled and was build in a machine. But for any reason it was removed after a very short period ... looks like new .... I removed thje mylar and will offer it with an extra layer clearcoat and a professional finish.
650 EURO plus shipping.
500 without extra coat and finish ....
Just rejoined the club, picked up this early winter project. Game has good bones. Hoping someone from the group can help me with a photo of the power board with all connectors attached and the location of the purple/orange wire that goes into the connector and where the ground is attached? I don’t have a schematic as of yet. Almost forgot, game is missing translite, does anyone have one for sale or have a good scan of an original I can have made. Not interested in the alternates out there at this point.
Thank you in advance.
295CC25F-F7B1-4BA6-8AAB-CBBD1C00B676 (resized).jpeg79461170-1F46-49A5-9E31-BD8B39FC1064 (resized).jpegCAA0E06C-46F3-4A0B-B330-F3EFC8D744E1 (resized).jpegf1460b5b5cbbec5578063d0d8a33c9133d2b6e21 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Lmjdad:Hoping someone from the group can help me with a photo of the power board with all connectors attached and the location of the purple/orange wire that goes into the connector and where the ground is attached?
Thank you IN_Pins for the detailed pictures. Game is up and running now. All that’s left is a shopout, some cabinet touchups, & pull the mylar because I can’t stand Mylar!
Hey everyone,
I was recently lucky enough to join the breakshot club. I’ve played a few games, and it’s quite fun. The pin had quite a long journey to get to my house though, and has developed a few things that need tweaked.
1) the right flipper won’t stay angled correctly, it tends to drop down after being played for a while. I repositioned it and tightened the Allen screw, but it slowly dropped again. Should I be doing more than just tightening the Allen screw? Or is something stripped?
2) the back box light won’t work. I put a new bulb in, but it still doesn’t light up. Any tips where to start?
Thanks!
F12FA1A8-DE9A-4438-BA13-A0B282A867D2 (resized).jpeg
Try changing the starter behind the fluorescent bulb, I purchased the one in the picture at Lowe’s for a couple of dollars and that did the trick. It unscrews out of the light frame. As for the flipper issue, pull the flipper and examine the flipper shaft, it may be completely worn and the set screw no longer holds it in place.
D563E1D8-340F-4E45-B300-1D3A3506B262 (resized).jpegQuoted from Lmjdad:Try changing the starter behind the fluorescent bulb, I purchased the one in the picture at Lowe’s for a couple of dollars and that did the trick. It unscrews out of the light frame. As for the flipper issue, pull the flipper and examine the flipper shaft, it may be completely worn and the set screw no longer holds it in place.[quoted image]
Thanks for the response.
I tried to find a replacement starter when I bought the bulb, but I live in a small town and wasn’t able to. I’ll order one online.
For the flipper shaft, with it being a straight cylinder, is there a way to tell if it’s too worn? Or another way to rig it tight?
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:Thanks for the response.
I tried to find a replacement starter when I bought the bulb, but I live in a small town and wasn’t able to. I’ll order one online.
For the flipper shaft, with it being a straight cylinder, is there a way to tell if it’s too worn? Or another way to rig it tight?
Try another from a different machine?
Quoted from yellowghost:Try another from a different machine?
It’s currently my only pin that uses the one long fluorescent bulb for lighting.
Tightening the Allen screws is your only option to attach the flipper to the flipper mechanism. Post a picture of the removed flipper for us to see. You may need a new flipper, the shaft could be indented to the point where the set screw can’t hold the shaft in the same position. Check the end of the set screw also.
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:It’s currently my only pin that uses the one long fluorescent bulb for lighting.
I meant the flipper paddle
Quoted from Lmjdad:Tightening the Allen screws is your only option to attach the flipper to the flipper mechanism. Post a picture of the removed flipper for us to see. You may need a new flipper, the shaft could be indented to the point where the set screw can’t hold the shaft in the same position. Check the end of the set screw also.
When I took the flipper out, I remember thinking the shaft looked ok, but I will pull it again and have another look. Thanks for the advice.
Quoted from yellowghost:I meant the flipper paddle
ah, that makes sense. my bad!
Small update.
I went digging through my old stash of arcade cabinet parts, and surprisingly found the right starter I needed. Swapped it in, and presto! it lights up now.
I tried tightening up the right flipper bat, as the pole looked ok. I got it a bit tighter than before, but I stupidly stripped the Allen bolt head a fair bit in doing so. I’ll see if it holds, and if it’s still not right, then I’ll look at sourcing new flipper parts for the right flipper.
Also, my pop bumpers are not working. I could’ve sworn they did before, but maybe I’m mistaken. That will be what I dive into next (and hopefully last lol).
Quoted from swampfire:The ColorDMD (LED version) looks great on BreakShot! I couldn’t resist the SFGE show special.[quoted image]
How much was the show special?
Has anyone tried moving their fluorescent light from the three lower standoffs (Above the driver board) to the upper ones? I had to because the standoffs on my game are stripped. A friend of mine who also owns a Breakshot has his light mounted in the same location and he says it looks better up top and doesn’t wash out the translite.
8C5728ED-C5A5-40CD-A784-5066FE9E1485 (resized).jpegFigured out why my right flipper was sagging and not staying tight. Here’s the bolt that was supposed to keep the flipper pole held tight. Is this common with capcom games? The pic is hard to see well, but the middle ridges on the bolt were either rubbed off or flattened down. Hopefully the new bolt fairs better.
This may be a fairly noobish question, but how do I get the coils to test fire in diagnostic/ test mode? I can get each coil to come up on the menu list, but I can’t seem to figure out what button to press to get each to test fire. I’m having trouble with 2 pop bumpers and my right outlane gate.
Quoted from sixtyfourbits:This may be a fairly noobish question, but how do I get the coils to test fire in diagnostic/ test mode? I can get each coil to come up on the menu list, but I can’t seem to figure out what button to press to get each to test fire. I’m having trouble with 2 pop bumpers and my right outlane gate.
High voltage is disabled when you open the coin door. Hold down the door interlock switch that is pressed when the coin door is closed. You also may be able to pull it out to have it stay powered. I can't remember on Capcom games.
Thanks for the responses guys!
I though I had tried holding down the interlock switch and then pressing start, but maybe (and most likely) not. I’ll try that again. I don’t think the problems are bad coil related, but I want to be able to for sure take that off the possibility list.
This breakshot was recently transported roughly 1300km (800 miles), and I believe it was trouble free before the drive, so any advice on what to check? I looked for loose wires under the playfield for those areas, but I’ll check again. I didnt see any loose connections in the backbox, but I didn’t reseat any connections either.
Thanks again for the advice and info.
I think I at least found the issue with each top outlane gate.
The left gate mechanism is missing the spring, so I need to fashion one similar to the one on the right.
The right gate shows this switch message:
5853E6C0-91C1-4164-A591-E20493022A0B (resized).jpeg
Is there a way to use the flipper buttons and start button to switch from off to nrm? Or is this showing that there is a problem I have to trace and not just a setting?
Also does anyone know what this message is referring too?
DFB2B0FB-D5F8-4D23-A456-1653B1B679DE (resized).jpeg
Sorry for all the questions, I’m just excited to get my new pin playing as it should.
I had a list of 8 things to fix on my breakshot, and I've got 6 of them done now. Not to bump this too impatiently soon, but if anyone has any answers/advice for the two pics posted above, I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
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