On my Breakshot, right under the tip of each lower flipper, is a small hole. I can't tell if the game was made this way or? Does your Breakshot have these holes? Thanks!

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Yes, most pins have these holes, they’re alignment holes. You put a toothpick in them and then rest the flipper on them and tighten them down. Then they will be properly aligned

lol. thanks. I looked on my other pins and they have them also...just never noticed them. The Breakshot's are a lot more visible.

Does anyone make plastic protectors for this pin?

I can’t tell you all how happy I am to be part of this club. I have missed out on quite a few examples over the years. I will post pics once I give her a good cleaning.

Yes!
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/LBC36ItmRkW-aVcxrZJVwg?catgoryid=23&name=Breakshot%20%7C%201996%20%7C%20Plastic%20Protectors

Congrats! I luv my Breakshot.

Here’s some quick pics, it’s in great shape but I will still break it down to polish the playfield and give her a complete shop job.
Harley D.

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Not that you'd ever need a protector, the clearcoat on these things is like kevlar.

That link was for plastic protectors. Not a playfield protector.

Anyone know where to get custom apron cards?

Can't remember where I got these, but these two I use on my Breakshot!

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Exactly what im looking for

Anyone add mirror blades to their Break shot?

Regarding rule card, don't the drops have to be completed in order to relight the kickback?

I’m pretty sure that’s what it says. Maybe I’m not understanding what you’re asking. I know the upper right drops are easy to sweep and they light the kickback. Not sure about the lower left.

I just checked my game:

Its original rule card says the same thing: "Completing drop targets awards outlane kicker" .. so the re-done card accurately reflects the original verbiage.

However, the actual rule in the game is different. The outlane kicker is only re-lit if the drops are dropped in sequence: front to back or back to front. If they are completed out of sequence, they'll reset but the kickback will not re-light. Looks like the original rule card wasn't fully correct.

I'd advise anyone remaking this card to edit that first rule: "Completing drop targets in sequence awards outlane kicker"

Howdy gang. Seems I left my legs at Troy's in IL. Just looked at Pinwiki and cannot find the correct size. Can anyone confirm correct leg size please?

I can measure mine when I get home.

Thanks Harley. Forgot I had the manual...derp.
Looks like they're standard 28.5.

Just pick one up?
You won’t regret it. Set this game up hard and unforgiving with wide outlines. It will make you violent. Shame, the finish on the original legs looks great and fits very well with the trim

Naw, I've had it for years. It's never had sound though. Need to get it set back up so I can pull the boards and send to Rob Anthony.
Fun game though!

This pin is so underrated. I just got brand new titans to put on.

Mine needed new legs when I got it. I put chrome ones on as per the flyer pic then noticed a lot of owners prefer black to match the door and rails better.

Excited to join the club! Picked up my Breakshot last week and I am loving it.

I am swapping the coin controls door for a traditional coin door and wondering if anyone can supply photos of where the wires for coin mechs and lamps go. Looked at the manual but my wiring color doesn’t seem to match up quite right.

Also looking for the pinning for the DBA hookup cable because the one on mine Is non traditional.

Thank you all!

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Created a thread here if anybody can help out, thanks! https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-a-dba-bill-acceptor-to-a-coin-control-door-capcom-breakshot#post-6804326

Sorry, I wanted to get pics for you but (and you may not believe this)..........I forgot that I don't have a Breakshot anymore

I had one for 17 years in the basement and now that my buddy took his games home it's not here anymore.

Sorry about that.

Hah no worries, looks like you better start looking to rejoin the club!

Just posting to sadly say I have left the club. Had to thin the herd, and while a tough decision, Breakshot lost. Already miss it. Will try to rejoin someday.

Sorted out the coin mechs and lamps now I just need a photo of the correct pinning for a bill acceptor (the harness that comes from the game)

Should be a nine pin female molex connector somewhere near the coin door.

Here's what mine looks like:

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Bump! Can anyone take a pic of this harness on their game?

I’ll try and remember to grab a photo from mine when I’m at that location next. I should be there tomorrow

Thank you!!

I bought my Breakshot about 15 years ago at an auction and have really enjoyed it.

Due to work and family distractions I didn't play it for several years and it sat in my basement. Well, I recently retired and now have some more times for my hobby!

I turned the machine on and it came up without issues. However, the rubber rings were dried out so I bought a new set online and installed them while cleaning the plastics and playfield. I then powered up the game and noticed I had a bunch of lamps out. I went through the diagnostic menu and it initially said I had 64 lamps out (I got the NRM Conn? flashing for them). As I went through the diagnostic a couple of times, some magically came back on and the number out reduced to 58. At this point, after being on for several minutes, the DMD suddenly went dead, so no more diagnostics.

The game plays fine, albeit without DMD. However, I can hear a very high pitch sound like a bird chirping coming from the backbox, not the speakers. Unfortunately, I do not have the key to the backbox so currently cannot open it.

Here are some questions I would be grateful to get some input on:

1. Can I get a key somewhere for the backbox? I am sure it is the original lock for the game and hasn't been replaced. Several years ago I had a locksmith come in to pick it and they left without being successful. I could always drill it out but if all these games had a common key (or one of very few keys), I would prefer to just open it normally. There is no number externally on the lock. I am attaching a picture of what it looks like.

2. Any ideas on what caused the DMD to go out? Is this likely the power supply board crapping out? Once I get in the backbox, I will check all the connectors. I assume nobody is selling replacement boards for this game and if it is just dried out caps, I can replace them myself.

3. Any ideas about the (very) high frequency whistling sound coming from the backbox (not the speakers)?

4. All of the playfield lamps near the slingshots and drains are out. This could just be coincidence or maybe not. These are just the GI lamps that are always on (#44 type). I think all the lamp boards are OK, as all have at least one lamp OK.

I'm attaching a scan of the original instruction card from back in its arcade days, in case anyone was looking for this.

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Tony

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Get a security torx bit and take the screws out of the plate holding the backbox lock in. Then you can remove the backbox lock.

Unplug the DMD. It is probably out gassed (failed) and the source of the high pitched whine you hear. Replace it with a color LCD from colordmd.com.

Thanks very much for your response! I am getting the security torx bit tomorrow and hopefully can get into the backbox.

The DMD was good one second, with no corner dimming or burn-in observed, and totally blacked out the next. Any way I can tell whether it's the display power supply or the DMD that's shot? I guess I can check the voltages on the output pins of the power supply.

I like the color DMDs but they are expensive and I'd prefer to keep the game original. I'll go down the color DMD route if the original DMD is shot.

Check out this thread on another pinsider troubleshooting his Breakshot DMD.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/capcom-breakshot-bad-dmd-display

Also look at page 106 in the manual for the DMD troubleshooting tips.

Thanks again for your help!

I got the backbox open and here is some new info:

1. The high frequency noise is coming from the display power supply board. There is also a burnt plastic smell when the game is powered on (similar to what is described in the post you linked above). Output voltages (J2) are all way off spec. They are measured (spec) as follows: P1: -50 (+68), P2: -4 (+12), P3: -5 (+5), P4: ground, P5: ground, P7: +10 (-98), P8: +12 (-110). The good news, I guess, is that they are all way under spec, rather than over. I don't know if this helps narrow down which components are bad.

2. LED2 on the CPU board (behind the DMD) is on. LED1 is flashing. I can't find any diagnostic codes for these LEDs in the manual or by googling. One of the LEDs on the sound board flashes as well but the machine has no sound problems.

3. I checked a few of the #44 bulbs in the lower playfield that do not light up and they tested good, so there is something going on other than the lamps being burned out.

4. All LEDs on the main power driver board are on.

5. Game plays fine. All sounds, optos, switches, solenoids seem to be functioning. Only issues are the DMD and some lamps.

I'm inclined to pull the display power supply and power drive boards and send them out for repair. Any ideas on this? I don't have another compatible game to test the DMD in.

Read here for a bit more info on display and lamp issues:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Capcom_Repair

I would send the boards out for repair.

I'm going to check out a breakshot next week. I've never played one but I've watched gameplay videos and it definitely looks like a game I would like. I'm a big fan of early solid state, single level games and my wife wants another DMD game so I figured this would be the best of both worlds. The game I'm looking at looks like it's in amazing shape by the pictures the seller sent. (Reputable guy that I've bought machines from before). Anything I need to know/look out for when I go to check out the game? Are any parts difficult to source since it was made by Capcom and only 1,000 were made?

I think the biggest thing is flipper parts. Capcom flipper parts are difficult or impossible to find so many people switch to Bally Williams style flipper brackets and mechs. Worth watching the TNT video of Breakshot on YouTube, they go over common issues with it.

I'll check out the video. Todd Tuckey is pretty entertaining, I like his videos, somehow I missed the one on this machine. Switching the flipper out works great for me, I bought the newer style williams flipper assemblies awhile ago for a different game to update the flippers to get that "snappier feel" but after switching out one assembly I didn't notice a difference so I switched back to the old assembly. I was actually thinking of selling the assemblies because I didn't know if I'd ever use them. I think a color dmd would be cool in this too.

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Mine will not boot up. Not sure if its the driver board, or CPU board. If it was almost any other machine, I could swap boards and narrow down the problem. I have only found one person who is willing to fix those CPU boards so keep that in mind. They seem to be really well built otherwise.

That's good to know, thanks. That's been the biggest worry for me, I figured that replacement boards would be hard to come by.

I've been reading up on pin wiki and found this:
"Breakshot uses several five lead solid state relays to drive the lamp matrix. So LED bulbs do not work properly. Incandescent bulbs work best on this machine".

So my question is, what exactly do the LEDs bulbs do if they're put in the machine and has anyone figured out a solution so LEDs can be used? It's not the end of the world if I can only use Incandescents in this machine. I have a crap ton laying around from all my other machines that I switched over to LEDs so I will be set for a while if that's the case.

You can use LEDs in the GI but they look bad in the controlled lights. You can also use an LED tube light in the backbox. Currently no fix (OCD Board) to use LEDs effectively in the controlled lights. Clive at Coin Op Cauldron is your guy if the boards need work.

I actually use LEDs in the controlled lighting and they don't look that bad to me. Of course, not as smooth as incandescent, but if you use a high quality non-ghosting LED, flickering is not that bad and only the most noticeable when the machine is in attract mode when the lamps are doing a lot of fade in and out. Gameplay doesn't bother me at all, but I know some people are more sensitive. Having said that, I would buy an OCD board in 2 seconds if it were ever to come available.

If you aren't looking to keep it stock, have you seen the ColorDMD for Breakshot? The LED version looked amazing on my table, and as an added bonus it doesn't require the DMD power driver board. The same driver board was toast on the Breakshot I had, replacing the popped cap was unfruitful, and looking into replacement showed I was halfway to the cost of a new ColorDMD upgrade that circumvented the issue.

Does anyone know of a suitable replacement for the slightshot plunger and link for this game? Both of mine are broken and not sure what parts would be most compatible since it seems some capcom parts aren't available.

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Are the links blue? If so I might have some at home if I recall correctly. I can check tonight, and if I do you can have them as I no longer have any Capcom games.

CHris

Yes they are blue and look like this. I would happily pay for shipping and send you a few bucks for your trouble!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/capcom-slingshot-assembly