(Topic ID: 110231)

Bram Stokers Dracula High Voltage Coils Out (fixed-maybe)

By nerdygrrl

9 years ago


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  • 30 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by nerdygrrl
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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BSD-ball-launch.jpg
#1 9 years ago

So my roommate and her BF played my BSD Saturday night while I was away. Sunday I went to fire it up and noticed it didn't do the little sequence of the ramp raising and the ball getting fired up, etc. I also noticed there was already a ball in the shooter lane that seemed to have been abandoned the night before. Sure enough I went to start a game and the ball launch would not work. I ran a coil test and coils 1-8 (high voltage) will not fire. I pull fuse 105 and test it, it's fine. Just to be safe I throw another fuse in and fire it up same deal.

When I power up I get the upper ramp up error. I also notice the coffin plunger gives a little grumbling sound when it engages. I can't tell if these are part of the problem or a result of the HV line being down.

Anyhoo, any suggestions? What aside form the fuse would cause the whole line to go down?

#2 9 years ago

Reference your manual and verify your status LEDs on the Power Driver Board are on.

Are any out?

#3 9 years ago

When I first power on the machine all the lights 1-7 are on, including led 3 high/low line voltage sensor which is typically off. When I press the start button it goes out.

#4 9 years ago

Your ramp issues probably wouldn't have anything to do with the HV line. But you will have to inspect the states of the ramp and make sure the switch is being actuated in the right positions. Some adjustment may be necessary.

If your HV fuse does not blow, but your HV/DMD goes out, the issue could be due to bad +5v on the display board or another logic-based DMD issue. Make sure your connectors on your DMD are good and that nothing is loose/wiggling.

#5 9 years ago

So when you turn it on it goes CLANG-CLANG-CLANG and tells you to check the error report?

If you press enter here, it should scroll all the problems it thinks it has across the screen.

What all does it report?

#6 9 years ago

thedefog, the dmd is fine. Just LED 3 on the driver board goes out when I hit start - according to the manual it should be out. I was just a little perplexed as it is lit upon powering and goes out when the start button is depressed. The ramps are the moveable ones (upper right and the entry ramp) and are powered by the HV coils

cody_chunn In the report, I get a bad drop target switch, left outline switch, magnet left switch, magnet right switch and bad upper right ramp up (I believe this is because right ramp down is part of the HV line)

HV Coils Are:
Shooter
Coffin Popper
Castle Popper
Right Ramp Down
Crypt Popper
Wire Ramp Ball Popper
Knocker
Shooting Ramp Entry

#7 9 years ago

Do you have a multimeter?

Start up a game and take the ball out of the shooter lane.

Gently raise the field and prop it on the kickstand (without tilting).

[edit] Pull out white coin door interlock or move lock arm out of tha way and fully close coin door. CAUTION high voltages are now present. Be careful!

Set meter to DC VOLTS (100 volt range) and stick the black lead under the silver braid running down the side of the cabinet. Place the red lead on the lugs of those coils that you can easily reach.

What do you see on the meter?

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from cody_chunn:

[edit] Pull out white coin door interlock or move lock arm out of tha way and fully close coin door. CAUTION high voltages are now present. Be careful!

No high power lockout switch on Drac, but agree otherwise. Side rails can also be used for ground.

Also check fuse F112 on the driver board. It supplies power to BR3, which supplies power to all the high power coils. 7 amp slow blow. If that one is blown, you won't have any high power coils.

#10 9 years ago

Note: Always check fuses with at least one end COMPLETELY away from the clip.

Thanks for the correction on the interlock.

#11 9 years ago

Thanks for all of the input guys.

I pulled Fuse 112 and it tested fine. For DC volts I am getting around 73V and the resistance seems to be ok. I checked BR3 and that tested fine as well.

Am I wrong to assume that the signal is being dropped? Clearly there is power, they're just not getting the signal to fire.

#12 9 years ago

Any thoughts or should I just send my driver out to be looked at/rebuilt?

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

should I just send my driver out to be looked at/rebuilt?

Not yet. Did you measure for power at the coils as cody suggested?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go fr Pinball Repair Info

#14 9 years ago

Yeah sorry the statement above was ambiguous on the coils for DC volts I am getting 73 volts with normal resistance.

#15 9 years ago

That's good.
Now, use the coil/transistor reference table in the front of the manual to identify the transistor that drives coil one. Since these are the high power coils, the transistor will be a big, beefy TIP-36.
Find it on the board.
Just above that will be a TIP-102 transistor, which is slightly smaller.

Game on.
Backbox open and accessible.
Game in attract mode.
Using a length of wire, attach one end of the wire to the backbox ground braid.
BRIEFLY touch he other end to the tab of the TIP-102. Important: don't touch the TIP-36.
Does the coil fire when you BRIEFLY touch the wire to its tab?

Report back.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

2 months later
#16 9 years ago

I finally had some time and sent the driver board off to get repaired. It came back, I fired up the machine and all was well for a day....I was trying to sort out a few switch errors and was playing around with it when I noticed the plunger misfiring and sticking in the "launch" position. At that point the launch button would not work and the HV line seemed dead again. I walked away to kick some puppies and when I came back and turned the machine on again all was working as it should be.

I still don't know what caused the initial failure two months ago-it just seemed to be cleared up by some reflows, but that could just be a coincidence. Maybe the two are not related. The only thought I have at this point is maybe a short in the launch button/plunger assembly. It's clearly an intermittent problem, but I can't figure out the trigger.

#17 9 years ago

I didn't want to post until I could log some hours on it and make sure the HV coil line would not go out again. When I traced everything back I noticed the coil wrapper on the ball launch was torn and the one lead wire was pulling from the PVC jacket. I rewrapped the coil with some tape and trimmed/reconnected the wire to the lug and so far so good. Now to sort out the rest of the mess.

1 week later
#18 9 years ago

All lies. After about fifty games the HV line went out again. The ball locked into the left gate, it kicked a new ball up into the shooter lane, the launch button lit, then went out and the entire HV line (coils 1-8) is down again. I disconnected the launch coil since that seemed to clear the issue up last time and no luck. The fuses are all fine. I am guessing this must be a short somewhere. Anyone have any ideas? This is really driving me crazy. Transistors, boards, coils, etc all good. Continuity throughout.

#19 9 years ago

As I remember, it is possible to install the coil in a way that one of the lugs can touch the metal parts of the bracket.
Be sure it is free from any metal when it moves inside it's bracket.

BSD-ball-launch.jpgBSD-ball-launch.jpg

#20 9 years ago

Thanks! When I disconnected the plunger coil this time nothing changed. The line was still out. I really felt like it was this coil. Now I am having my doubts. It's so frustrating.

#21 9 years ago

Sorry, I missed that the fuse is still OK.
Is the fuse tight in its holder, some fuses have smaller diameter.
Is wire in J106/J107 firmly in connector.
Is the 50 Volt wire from coil to coil stil OK

#22 9 years ago

Fuse is tight. Connectors are all good. By 50V wire are you referring to the positive? If so the coils are all in the 73VDC range. Resistance is within range too.

I really thought it was that plunger coil. Both times it kicked off was after that coil was prepared for activation. I did notice that when I went to desolder the positive lead it gave a spark with the machine off. Not sure if that means anything.

So stumped as this goes in and out.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

then went out and the entire HV line (coils 1-8) is down again.

Quoted from nerdygrrl:

If so the coils are all in the 73VDC range.

Maybe I was a little confused. Yes, i meant the positive but you have correct power.

Another possibility:
The ribbon cable between J113 PDB and J211 CPU has on pin12 the sol#1-8 enable.
This signal comes from ASIC pin 67

#24 9 years ago

Thanks! I will go and have a look at that now.

#25 9 years ago

Winner winner. Chicken dinner. (for now). Man, that was driving me nuts. I just gave them a little push and everything is back up and running. Of course I literally just placed a marco order before reading this. Hopefully he'll let me tack on a cable.

Thank you so much. The ribbon cable never occurred to me. I was too fixated on that dang plunger. If you are ever in the New England area I owe you a beer or something.

#26 9 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

If you are ever in the New England area I owe you a beer or something.

Still on the list to visit

#27 9 years ago

Good work! yea that little ribbon cable has cause more than one headache for me as well. Congrats BSD is worth all the heartache.

#28 9 years ago

Thanks, I never would have gotten there without zaza's help. I was too fixated on the coil.

I love the game. I picked it up non working in October and have been slowly going through it. I'm really kicking myself for not ordering the ribbon cable "kit" the last time I had to order a ribbon cable for it (doh). I would have saved myself a ton of headaches plus had a couple of more months of playing under my belt.

#29 9 years ago

I carry a spare brand new one in my toolbox now. Never know when you need to rule it out or have one on hand. Same with the dmd ribbon cable, I've had two of those crap out too last year. The good news is once you replace them you've got another 20 years of goodness to go

#30 9 years ago

Lesson learned. I am picking up an FT in the next fews weeks. Replacing all of the ribbons will be one of my first endeavors.

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