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Quoted from kevinleedrum:
Nice. Before I switched to blue pop bumpers, I had red LEDs in my DRACULA inserts as well to make all the red and blue balance out better. Now that I have blue pops, as well as yellow/orange flippers, I think it looks better in yellow. Here's where mine stands.
Going back and forth with LED's in BSD...
But this..... Sir, that's the nicest ledded BSD i've ever seen, and a fine picture of it!
Tip at the hat to you
Quoted from RoberAstur:
As it is difficult to get a set of slingshots promo plastics ...
Someone has some file or scan to make a reproduction????
I'd be eternally grateful.
Promo ? or Proto
For slings and proto, take a look here : http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/11770
ATM out of stock, but they are very nice repro's. Same goes for the regular slings.
Perhaps shooting them a mail will give you answer when they are available again
Measure the ohms on the coil, see if the hold (thin wire) is not fried.
If so, suspect blown transistor on pcb
Transistor Testing procedures using a DMM.
If the driver board is out of the game for some reason (like to fix the burnt GI connector pins), test all the transistors. It only takes a moment, and will
ultimately save time. To test a transistor, a digital multi-meter (DMM) is needed, set to the “diode” position. NOTE: testing transistors with a DMM is not 100% fool-proof. A transistor can test as “good” and still be bad (rare, but it does happen!).
Testing Transistors INSTALLED in the WPC driver board.
TIP36c: Put the red lead of the DMM on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the black lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the
transistor. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the black lead on the center transistor leg (collector) and the red lead on the metal
tab, and a zero reading should be seen. Put the black lead of the DMM on the left/top (base) leg of the transistor. The red lead on the center
transistor leg should show .4 to .6 volts. The red lead on the right/bottom leg should be .2 volts. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.
TIP102: Put the black lead of the DMM on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the
transistor. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the red lead on the center transistor leg (collector), and a zero reading should be
seen. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.
TIP107: Put the red lead of the DMM on the center leg or on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the black lead of the DMM on each of the two
outside legs of the transistor. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the black lead on the center transistor leg (collector) and the red
lead on the metal tab, and a zero reading should be seen. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.
2N5401, MPSD52, 2N4403 (pre-drivers): Put the black lead of the DMM on the center leg of the transistor (note this transistor doesn’t have a metal tab). Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside
If you have continuity on the wires, diodes are oke also take a look at the opto-board below the PF near the mist-assembly. Inspect for burnt LM339 components.
Quoted from mummite:
Easy. . . . I also find this game easy to shop out. Its a fantastic game!
Well..... shopped mine this week, that coffin with the connectors underneath and ramps rearranging all the time, it gave me quite a handfull
PS added that cool "LED-stip in the graveyard", wauw what a great effect! Thanks to the original poster (Jnewton) of this idea
The fuses you have to check are the ones on the power-driver-board.
(the big one, lowest board on the right)
Quoted from n0s4atu:
Thanks for the tip joe2012 I will look into that!
What kind of LED flashers is everyone using behind Love Never Dies?
As mentioned I have the Cointaker strip there which looks great, but if I have to remove one mod that'd be it since that's technically only supposed to light when you get a quickly drained ball. So basically what's the brightest LED flasher that would fit there?
How about putting a dedicated 12v supply into your service-outlet
Could be it works all fine after that
Your flipper-board (behind the flipper-button) has two opto's each.
It's a generic board which can facilitate two flippers each.
Try cleaning these opto's with some windex or alcohol.
Also make sure when the flipper-button is pressed, the blade is pushed out far enough.
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:
I usually think aftermarket toppers looks like crap, but that one is bad ass! Care to share where you got it and how you lit it up?
Well thank you sir
It's more of a DIY topper.
I used an model Horizon Dracula in Battlesuit (but more of a Thailand spin-off )
Like this : ebay.com link » Hor040 Bram Stokers Dracula In Armor
Assemble and paint.
Feeded two orange prewired LED's (6-16V) for his eyes. Thought it was too bright, and used fragments of a Cointaker frost dome to tone it down some notches.
Put a red-spot at the base, shining upwards and giving that shadow on the ceiling.
Leeched 12V through the vent holes from the powerboard.
The model kit comes with full size legs, but due to ceiling clearance i had to make the Luitenant Dan version
As compensation he holds a pinball
Quoted from Pinhead87:
Every single BSD ive ever played has always had a squeaky motor, when i had found mine, it had been in a windowless basement for 16 years, and had only 638 original plays and it still had a squeaky motor. I honestly think thats just the way they are, but i could be wrong, i'd love to see a video of that motor going side to side silently.
Mine was squeaky, put a very light coat of sillicon lubricant in the grooves (with a rag, not sprayed freely)
World of difference!
Quoted from aobrien5:
yikes dude! You should definitely concentrate on the trough switches before messing with the optos. They're sooo much easier to get to!
What he says
Plus focus on one thing at a time, so you actualy know what fixed it in the end FOCUS! (sorry that's from CftBL)
Quoted from nicoga3000:
I may be going to check out a BSD this weekend. Pics look great and the guy has been really helpful and friendly about it, but a few things I want to get some impressions on for those of you have have and know this game:
- Cab is entirely faded - that seems to be the norm. Is that an easy recolor? Thinking of masking and airbrushing the white red.
- Shown in the picture is the insert wear - how easy/hard is this sort of thing to fix? I have no problem trying to do some touchup work, but I've never done it before.
- Anything specific I need to look at to make sure the game is in full working order?
wear.JPG 76 KB
Pics look great ..., perhaps the pictures themselves but what it's showing does not look that promising.
That is heavy wear, particular in that area.
About the decals, you can color them just fine, or wait till decals for it show up on ebay.
Think you really must look into planking on this machine, that would be the area above the picture where the wear is showing. Look for long lines with cracked paint, usualy the fine lines look white. That would be a bad sign.
Stay objective, i know it's hard when it's a machine you want, but keep in mind what sort of machine you want for the long run ....
Quoted from Axl:
Between balls there is a score popping up. right now it is 168.000.000, other times it is
199.000.000. What does that mean? is it the replay score?
This will be before you launch the last ball ... indicating what you have to do to earn that replay
It's adjustable in the settings. Yours will be dynamic, if you regularly score big the "to reach"-score will increase, and vise versa
Quoted from nerdygrrl:
....I can pull it down and set it, but upon power up it pops back up and makes a less than pleasant "grinding" sound.
Anyone know any of the causes for this ramp to malfunction? I guess I am wondering if the ramp is the root of the malfunction or the product of.
Sounds like a blown transistor, which is locked on.
Check the transistors of the coils
Measure the coils for ohm
Check wiring to those coils
Quoted from JWV:
Also joined the club! (BSD is my first machine) And I really like it.. it is very addicting because of all those bad games ending within minutes and then suddenly have a great game with combined multiballs What a rush!
Did not yet got the 3 multiballs combined.. takes a lot of practice to correctly aim for all the ramps.. Especially the Coffin Ramp I find very hard to hit.. (loop high score: only 10, after 100+ games..)
Question for other owners:
when the ball kicks out of the rats hole, does it consistently hit the same spot (e.g. on the right flipper)?
In my case it sometimes hits the right flipper, sometimes the left.. And sometimes just in between with no chance to catch it.. And sometimes it hits the top of the right slingshot, which poses a high risk to lose the ball in the drains.
Is there a way to adjust the "aim" of the rats hole "up kicker"?
Post edited by JWV
Congratulations on a great title!!
You can adjust the upkicker, by loosen the screws a little and adjust the position slightly.
If you have to adjust more you can consider adding washers, or using a different coil stength.
Quoted from JWV:
.. Not sure how to improve this by loosening and re-tightening the up-kicker as Thor-NL suggested.. .
Because you can slide it a little (few milimeters) and this can be what you are looking for, washers if you want to tilt it a little .... Make sure, the mechs are clean, particularly the sleeve, and tighten them firmly again. Varying between one time on right and one time on left flippers is odd behaviour for a BSD
Really necessary are the slings and center-plastic (plastic on top of the three-bank target below pops)
But i would buy the 6-set....better save then sorry
Tonight got the THHHHIIIIRRRTTTYYYY MILLIONS !! again ....
Such a rush stack multiball
I put green under the graveyard, like the green mist when Mina 'encounters' the beast.
^^ it's under the right ramp, just before the position the lift-ramp goes into the fixed ramp.
Quoted from Luppin:
thanks for your suggestions.
I have another minor issue. When the machine is on, but not being played and silent, I hear an annoying low buzzing/hun noise from the cabinet, made presumably by the speakers. I like sometimes to leave the pin on and enjoy the lightining, but this background sound is annoying (although not loud at all). How to avoid it?
Try redirecting the wiring in the backbox a little. Sometimes moving a couple of inches makes a difference
Quoted from Luppin:
During the initial test I often receive the magnet unload error. But then the mist multiball works perfectly. And it's enough to run the magnet test and the error disappear. Why is that? And why some error indication are deleted by running the relative test?
Quoted from aobrien5:
The error clears because the test was successful. Maybe a long opto issue? Someone else may know more about that one.
Make sure the optos are clean (windex or alcohol) and perfectly aligned. Also take a look if one of the gates is never interfering with the opto-beam.
Great looking NPO, congrats!!
(while looking at the pics I wondered, why is there a crucifix on the thombstone of Dracula ..... ??? Can some Dracula "nerd" enlighten me on this )
Quoted from robertmee:
The Flipper Optos off the buttons go to the Fliptronics board. The Fliptronics board tells the flipper solenoids to fire and also reports switch closure to the MPU. I'm going to guess that your flipper doesn't work when you try to set a high score either. Try reseating connector J903 on the fliptronics board first.
Also see if the actuator is moving out of the opto far enough when the button is pressed.
Clean the optos with windex or alcohol
Quoted from MrBellMan:
I know it's hard to see, but I installed my black powder coated armor to my Dracula yesterday. I also installed my clear speaker panel and Color DMD LCD in anticipation of the color DMD ROM being released!
Just a little holiday love for our Drac!
Put that LCD on RED!!
Quoted from DoubleDanger:
1) The drop target doesn't always stay up when it's supposed to, so shots go straight through and get ejected from the asylum instead of being stopped and falling into the pops.
2) The diverter needs adjustment - it sends the ball to secret passage most of the time instead of letting it pass all the way around.
3) The pops don't light up or flash (maybe a connector issue?).
4) There are a couple flaky LEDs that don't want to stay lit (again, connectors). Should be easy to fix.
1 and 2, get that PF up and clean those mech's, normaly a good clean and some mild tuning changes games from night to day
3. pops are GI and should lightup all the time, if they are not modified to flashers, probably burned out if normal lamps
Quoted from Its_me_aj:
During multiball, if a ball drains it will end that current ball in play even if I still have balls playing. Is this a known problem? Game isn't showing any errors.
See if the through switches register .... and release again. Perhaps a sticky switch?
(cleanded the optos ?)
Quoted from Jakers:
However, the credit dot remains. I have a “check switch f6 UR flipper but” error. The previous owner told me about this but what does it mean and can I get rid of this error?
Check the opto's on the flipper-board (cabinet behind the fhysical button) clean and adjust by bending it in or out.
I am trying to replace the 3 flashers in the speaker panel with red led-strips.
Well obviously it didn't work like i tought it would (otherwise i would not ask this question here )
Does not light up, took a look in the manual flasher-table, it reads :
26 Speaker Panel FL - Low Power - J106-5 - Drive-Trans Q24 - J128-2
The J128-2 was empty, and i found the connector on J124.
So i plugged it over from J124 to J128, now it is lit all the time, not good.
So i went on to take a look at the schematics, and that confused me
Q24 is on the line of J124, not on J128. J128-2 connects to driver Q48
Are the schematics or the flasher-table fault?
Or am i a complete moron and reading all of this wrong?
Before i am going to remove the powerboard and inspect further, i would like to know wh.ich connector i should use, J128 like the manual says or J124 as i understand from the schematics.
Can some shed some light on this for me please?
Quoted from dr_nybble:
Pretty sure J124 and J128 are interchangeable-- same number of pins and the same keying. I didn't see J128 on the schematic.
Thanks for your reply!
Still wondering if the schematics OR the manual flasher table is fault.
(J128 is on Sheet 3 of the Powerboard, on the lefthand upper corner)
May i suggest you set it up, upright..
They play much better that way
(You're welcome )
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