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(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,510 posts
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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by PinballWizard666
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Topic index (key posts)

31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (7 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (7 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (7 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#337 7 years ago
Quoted from kevinleedrum:

Just thought I'd share a couple recent pics of my work-in-progress BSD, which I'm hoping to have completely rebuilt before my wedding at the end of July.

Fantastic looking! Great job.
Don't forget to post when you're done

2 weeks later
#368 7 years ago
Quoted from kevinleedrum:

Nice. Before I switched to blue pop bumpers, I had red LEDs in my DRACULA inserts as well to make all the red and blue balance out better. Now that I have blue pops, as well as yellow/orange flippers, I think it looks better in yellow. Here's where mine stands.

Wow !!!
Going back and forth with LED's in BSD...

But this..... Sir, that's the nicest ledded BSD i've ever seen, and a fine picture of it!
Tip at the hat to you

2 months later
#482 7 years ago
Quoted from shedpinball:

.....
hope someone can help me out

These are color, and pretty nice looking
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/bsd_may_09.pdf

1 week later
#521 7 years ago
Quoted from skywalker:

Mines just landed, I;ll wait to the sun goes down first

Well DO !!! Then go and stack them up ...... THIIIIRRRTYYYYY MIIIIILLLLION !!!!

@drano, great job! Looking pretty sharp.

#529 7 years ago
Quoted from skywalker:

the bump post on the RHS lane is loose in the timber, looks it will need a oversized post, any idea what part # post will be suitable

Fill the hole with some glued in toothpicks.

1 week later
#554 7 years ago
Quoted from RoberAstur:

As it is difficult to get a set of slingshots promo plastics ...
Someone has some file or scan to make a reproduction????
I'd be eternally grateful.

Promo ? or Proto

For slings and proto, take a look here : http://www.bestofpinball.de/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/11770

ATM out of stock, but they are very nice repro's. Same goes for the regular slings.
Perhaps shooting them a mail will give you answer when they are available again

#571 7 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Now that's cool. Sure beats the bug-eyed Gary Oldman behind the over-smoked coffin lid plastic.

Gary Oldman? ..... pretty sure Ron Jeremy did the posing for that figure

2 months later
#803 6 years ago

Shops like a breeze

2 months later
#1184 6 years ago

Measure the ohms on the coil, see if the hold (thin wire) is not fried.
If so, suspect blown transistor on pcb

#1187 6 years ago

Transistor Testing procedures using a DMM.
If the driver board is out of the game for some reason (like to fix the burnt GI connector pins), test all the transistors. It only takes a moment, and will
ultimately save time. To test a transistor, a digital multi-meter (DMM) is needed, set to the “diode” position. NOTE: testing transistors with a DMM is not 100% fool-proof. A transistor can test as “good” and still be bad (rare, but it does happen!).
Testing Transistors INSTALLED in the WPC driver board.

TIP36c: Put the red lead of the DMM on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the black lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the
transistor. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the black lead on the center transistor leg (collector) and the red lead on the metal
tab, and a zero reading should be seen. Put the black lead of the DMM on the left/top (base) leg of the transistor. The red lead on the center
transistor leg should show .4 to .6 volts. The red lead on the right/bottom leg should be .2 volts. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.
TIP102: Put the black lead of the DMM on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside legs of the
transistor. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the red lead on the center transistor leg (collector), and a zero reading should be
seen. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.
TIP107: Put the red lead of the DMM on the center leg or on the metal tab of the transistor. Put the black lead of the DMM on each of the two
outside legs of the transistor. A reading of .4 to .6 volts should be seen. Put the black lead on the center transistor leg (collector) and the red
lead on the metal tab, and a zero reading should be seen. Any other value, and the transistor is bad and will need to be replaced.
2N5401, MPSD52, 2N4403 (pre-drivers): Put the black lead of the DMM on the center leg of the transistor (note this transistor doesn’t have a metal tab). Put the red lead of the DMM on each of the two outside

#1190 6 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

..... Poor drac.

Right on that He wants to feel miserable, and you making him better. Poor Drac

#1234 6 years ago

^^ Congrats, that is quite a score Well done

#1237 6 years ago

If you have continuity on the wires, diodes are oke also take a look at the opto-board below the PF near the mist-assembly. Inspect for burnt LM339 components.

1 week later
#1283 6 years ago
Quoted from mcclad:

..... Can't wait for mine to be done and playable. After all, I have waited years.

Well, get it up and running then!!
Don't waste time on here typing ....

If you are done we all can welcome you with a "Welcome to The Karpatians"

2 weeks later
#1308 6 years ago

^^^pictures or it did not happen

Congrats!

#1320 6 years ago

^^ love to see that with some pictures when they are back

#1333 6 years ago

Check the diode board below the playfield.

#1337 6 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

You mean opto board? Check for under playfield fuses, too.

I stand corrected..... Yup, opto

#1367 6 years ago
Quoted from mummite:

Easy. . . . I also find this game easy to shop out. Its a fantastic game!

Well..... shopped mine this week, that coffin with the connectors underneath and ramps rearranging all the time, it gave me quite a handfull

PS added that cool "LED-stip in the graveyard", wauw what a great effect! Thanks to the original poster (Jnewton) of this idea

#1368 6 years ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

Finally got around to unpacking BSD after Rocky Mtn. Pinball Showdown. Here are a few pics...

I can see why you won that prize! Congrats on a sharp looking machine

#1373 6 years ago

The fuses you have to check are the ones on the power-driver-board.
(the big one, lowest board on the right)

#1406 6 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Thanks for the tip joe2012 I will look into that!
What kind of LED flashers is everyone using behind Love Never Dies?
As mentioned I have the Cointaker strip there which looks great, but if I have to remove one mod that'd be it since that's technically only supposed to light when you get a quickly drained ball. So basically what's the brightest LED flasher that would fit there?

How about putting a dedicated 12v supply into your service-outlet
Could be it works all fine after that

#1409 6 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

the service outlet is always on.it's in the silver box on the bottom of the cabinet.to the right of the coin box. joe

^^ where he says it is
Plug in your powercord

#1422 6 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

What color/type LED look good for the 3 under the ramp?

I have frosted purple CoinTakers. Doesn't wash out the decal print but acentuates it, imho

#1481 6 years ago

Your flipper-board (behind the flipper-button) has two opto's each.
It's a generic board which can facilitate two flippers each.

Try cleaning these opto's with some windex or alcohol.
Also make sure when the flipper-button is pressed, the blade is pushed out far enough.

3 weeks later
#1581 6 years ago

No more rejects when this plastic is installed

BSD_Battlesuit.JPG
#1589 6 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

I usually think aftermarket toppers looks like crap, but that one is bad ass! Care to share where you got it and how you lit it up?

Well thank you sir
It's more of a DIY topper.
I used an model Horizon Dracula in Battlesuit (but more of a Thailand spin-off )
Like this : ebay.com link » Hor040 Bram Stokers Dracula In Armor

Assemble and paint.
Feeded two orange prewired LED's (6-16V) for his eyes. Thought it was too bright, and used fragments of a Cointaker frost dome to tone it down some notches.
Put a red-spot at the base, shining upwards and giving that shadow on the ceiling.
Leeched 12V through the vent holes from the powerboard.

The model kit comes with full size legs, but due to ceiling clearance i had to make the Luitenant Dan version
As compensation he holds a pinball

BSD_topper-Battle.JPG BSD_topper-Battle2.JPG
#1615 6 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Yes, that's the one.
Two pops have cool plastics on them. Shouldn't the third?

Two?

Only one on the left popper

2 months later
#1834 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead87:

Every single BSD ive ever played has always had a squeaky motor, when i had found mine, it had been in a windowless basement for 16 years, and had only 638 original plays and it still had a squeaky motor. I honestly think thats just the way they are, but i could be wrong, i'd love to see a video of that motor going side to side silently.
...

Mine was squeaky, put a very light coat of sillicon lubricant in the grooves (with a rag, not sprayed freely)
World of difference!

#1857 6 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

yikes dude! You should definitely concentrate on the trough switches before messing with the optos. They're sooo much easier to get to!

What he says

Plus focus on one thing at a time, so you actualy know what fixed it in the end FOCUS! (sorry that's from CftBL)

#1869 6 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I may be going to check out a BSD this weekend. Pics look great and the guy has been really helpful and friendly about it, but a few things I want to get some impressions on for those of you have have and know this game:
- Cab is entirely faded - that seems to be the norm. Is that an easy recolor? Thinking of masking and airbrushing the white red.
- Shown in the picture is the insert wear - how easy/hard is this sort of thing to fix? I have no problem trying to do some touchup work, but I've never done it before.
- Anything specific I need to look at to make sure the game is in full working order?
wear.JPG 76 KB

Pics look great ..., perhaps the pictures themselves but what it's showing does not look that promising.
That is heavy wear, particular in that area.

About the decals, you can color them just fine, or wait till decals for it show up on ebay.

Think you really must look into planking on this machine, that would be the area above the picture where the wear is showing. Look for long lines with cracked paint, usualy the fine lines look white. That would be a bad sign.

Stay objective, i know it's hard when it's a machine you want, but keep in mind what sort of machine you want for the long run ....

2 weeks later
#1900 6 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Thanks for the help guys!
I totally forgot to introduce my BSD!

Congrats on a nice looking Drac !
(the cover on your pop-bumper is upside down )

1 month later
#2036 6 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Hi all,
Between balls there is a score popping up. right now it is 168.000.000, other times it is
199.000.000. What does that mean? is it the replay score?
Axl

This will be before you launch the last ball ... indicating what you have to do to earn that replay
It's adjustable in the settings. Yours will be dynamic, if you regularly score big the "to reach"-score will increase, and vise versa

2 weeks later
#2083 6 years ago

Here is Mina trying to save those little rabbits from Drac

sexy-mina-ohmy.gif
3 weeks later
#2138 5 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

....I can pull it down and set it, but upon power up it pops back up and makes a less than pleasant "grinding" sound.
Anyone know any of the causes for this ramp to malfunction? I guess I am wondering if the ramp is the root of the malfunction or the product of.

Sounds like a blown transistor, which is locked on.

Check the transistors of the coils
Measure the coils for ohm
Check wiring to those coils

BSD-Solenoid.jpg
1 week later
#2154 5 years ago
Quoted from Shado1w:

I just redecaled my bsd thanks to Black Rose here on pinside. What do you guys think?

Loving it !

#2162 5 years ago
Quoted from JWV:

Also joined the club! (BSD is my first machine) And I really like it.. it is very addicting because of all those bad games ending within minutes and then suddenly have a great game with combined multiballs What a rush!
Did not yet got the 3 multiballs combined.. takes a lot of practice to correctly aim for all the ramps.. Especially the Coffin Ramp I find very hard to hit.. (loop high score: only 10, after 100+ games..)
Question for other owners:
when the ball kicks out of the rats hole, does it consistently hit the same spot (e.g. on the right flipper)?
In my case it sometimes hits the right flipper, sometimes the left.. And sometimes just in between with no chance to catch it.. And sometimes it hits the top of the right slingshot, which poses a high risk to lose the ball in the drains.
Is there a way to adjust the "aim" of the rats hole "up kicker"?
Post edited by JWV

Congratulations on a great title!!

You can adjust the upkicker, by loosen the screws a little and adjust the position slightly.
If you have to adjust more you can consider adding washers, or using a different coil stength.

#2165 5 years ago
Quoted from JWV:

.. Not sure how to improve this by loosening and re-tightening the up-kicker as Thor-NL suggested.. .

Because you can slide it a little (few milimeters) and this can be what you are looking for, washers if you want to tilt it a little .... Make sure, the mechs are clean, particularly the sleeve, and tighten them firmly again. Varying between one time on right and one time on left flippers is odd behaviour for a BSD

1 week later
#2176 5 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

How many plastic protectors are needed for BSD?
I'm getting ready to tear mine down for a shop and I see some sets have 3 pieces and others have no more than 6, which are really necessary?, I will be installing new plastics and want to protect my investment.
Thanks in advance

Really necessary are the slings and center-plastic (plastic on top of the three-bank target below pops)
But i would buy the 6-set....better save then sorry

1 month later
#2246 5 years ago

Tonight got the THHHHIIIIRRRTTTYYYY MILLIONS !! again ....
Such a rush stack multiball

BSD_Battlesuit.JPG
2 weeks later
#2304 5 years ago

I put green under the graveyard, like the green mist when Mina 'encounters' the beast.

BSD_grave.JPG
#2314 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

I'm totally gonna put some light strips under my graveyard now! Both of those colors that you guys have look great.

Thanks, but you have to put it IN the graveyard-plastic

Easy mod, great effect

3 months later
#2566 5 years ago

Great job MMP!!

Put a green LED-strip into that graveyard, makes a great effect

#2575 5 years ago

^^ it's under the right ramp, just before the position the lift-ramp goes into the fixed ramp.

1 week later
#2634 5 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

thanks for your suggestions.
I have another minor issue. When the machine is on, but not being played and silent, I hear an annoying low buzzing/hun noise from the cabinet, made presumably by the speakers. I like sometimes to leave the pin on and enjoy the lightining, but this background sound is annoying (although not loud at all). How to avoid it?

Try redirecting the wiring in the backbox a little. Sometimes moving a couple of inches makes a difference

#2650 5 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

During the initial test I often receive the magnet unload error. But then the mist multiball works perfectly. And it's enough to run the magnet test and the error disappear. Why is that? And why some error indication are deleted by running the relative test?

Quoted from aobrien5:

The error clears because the test was successful. Maybe a long opto issue? Someone else may know more about that one.

Make sure the optos are clean (windex or alcohol) and perfectly aligned. Also take a look if one of the gates is never interfering with the opto-beam.

#2658 5 years ago

Great looking NPO, congrats!!

(while looking at the pics I wondered, why is there a crucifix on the thombstone of Dracula ..... ??? Can some Dracula "nerd" enlighten me on this )

1 week later
#2715 5 years ago
Quoted from mrserv0n:

The orange ones , they were stock on the machine. Does harder vs softer flipper rubber make a difference?

It makes a difference in controlling the ball, stall - drop stop - passing etc.

1 week later
#2751 5 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

The Flipper Optos off the buttons go to the Fliptronics board. The Fliptronics board tells the flipper solenoids to fire and also reports switch closure to the MPU. I'm going to guess that your flipper doesn't work when you try to set a high score either. Try reseating connector J903 on the fliptronics board first.

^^ This

Also see if the actuator is moving out of the opto far enough when the button is pressed.
Clean the optos with windex or alcohol

3 months later
#3001 5 years ago
Quoted from Xtra_Ball:

Hey looking good! How do you get the graveyard off? I just painted the castle part.

When it's off, don't forget to put in an green LED-strip ....
Great effect, when only dry-brushed

#3002 5 years ago
Quoted from Xtra_Ball:

Hey looking good! How do you get the graveyard off? I just painted the castle part.

When it's off, don't forget to put in an green LED-strip ....
Great effect, when only dry-brushed

1 month later
#3066 4 years ago

It's in a through, so all switches gets triggered going down.

1 week later
#3092 4 years ago
Quoted from MrBellMan:

I know it's hard to see, but I installed my black powder coated armor to my Dracula yesterday. I also installed my clear speaker panel and Color DMD LCD in anticipation of the color DMD ROM being released!
Just a little holiday love for our Drac!
IMG_0420.jpg

Put that LCD on RED!!

Gorgeous!!

3 months later
#3305 4 years ago

Both gorgeous looking!

little nod to the black

1 month later
#3363 4 years ago
Quoted from DoubleDanger:

1) The drop target doesn't always stay up when it's supposed to, so shots go straight through and get ejected from the asylum instead of being stopped and falling into the pops.
2) The diverter needs adjustment - it sends the ball to secret passage most of the time instead of letting it pass all the way around.
3) The pops don't light up or flash (maybe a connector issue?).
4) There are a couple flaky LEDs that don't want to stay lit (again, connectors). Should be easy to fix.

1 and 2, get that PF up and clean those mech's, normaly a good clean and some mild tuning changes games from night to day
3. pops are GI and should lightup all the time, if they are not modified to flashers, probably burned out if normal lamps

#3393 4 years ago

The pop-bumper lights are GI, so they are not in the lamp-matrix.
The are connected in one of three General Illumination strings.

Follow these strings for breaks or shortning.
The fuses on the powerboard are oke?

3 months later
#3586 4 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

During multiball, if a ball drains it will end that current ball in play even if I still have balls playing. Is this a known problem? Game isn't showing any errors.

See if the through switches register .... and release again. Perhaps a sticky switch?
(cleanded the optos ?)

2 weeks later
#3737 4 years ago
Quoted from dmbjunky:

What am I looking at?

Quoted from Kneissl:

You need someone to sail it down and motor it to shore on their dinghy under cover of darkness.

There you go

1 year later
#5431 2 years ago
Quoted from TDEX:

no but as soon as I find out what a VUK is i'm gonna.

Vertical Up Kicker

3 weeks later
#5493 2 years ago
Quoted from gprotein:

Hi y'all, fuse 110 keeps blowing on my game, and its for the GI on the upper right side of the playfield with 5A slow blow fuse. Anyone knows why and how to rectify the issue?

Check for a short, or pinched wire, in that string. That’s where i would start

#5499 2 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

I am done with the game, and had a lot of fun with it. I only have room for 6-8 games, something got to give, and I am selling games to finance JJP Pirates.

Do you keep the rest of your collection of 20 in storage?

7 months later
#6220 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

That seems way high. I'd say more like $4,000-4,500.

And it depends on the location, BSD's are going 2500 - 3000 Euro in Holland.

1 month later
#6343 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakers:

However, the credit dot remains. I have a “check switch f6 UR flipper but” error. The previous owner told me about this but what does it mean and can I get rid of this error?

Check the opto's on the flipper-board (cabinet behind the fhysical button) clean and adjust by bending it in or out.

1 week later
#6375 1 year ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Repainting the Models is probably the best thing I've seen done to this game.

So true! Search dry-brushing on youtube, and you're in business

3 weeks later
#6513 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Awesome. Just ordered non-bloody version.

You are such an BSD groupie, love it

3 weeks later
#6621 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

..., has anyone had a way to soften the noise of the movements

Spray the rod/axl with a light touch of silicon spray, did wonders on mine

2 months later
#6827 1 year ago

Like mollyspub I also bought a Pinshaker for BSD (and ST:TNG).

Fits the theme very well , shaker makes the game even more intense
fzeqqTXnQDmBnYrL2Mkk7w (resized).jpg

1 month later
#6944 1 year ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

You may want to indicate where you are if you're trying to finding cheaper. A $4,000 BSD shipped could be close to that $4,500 price point.

When in Europe, 2200-3000 Euro

2 months later
#7112 9 months ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

The new Dracula series on Netflix is pretty fucking good

Agreed, but only first two episodes .... third is a shipwreck

1 week later
#7137 9 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

Finally found a coffin mod, with the tombstone cover mod it's PERFECT![quoted image]

Congrats, looks great!
Would love to have one, but not too keen on beeing stringed along for a year

2 weeks later
#7146 8 months ago

^^ Nice step by step!

3 weeks later
#7182 8 months ago

Welcome!

My BSD would LOVE a Totan as companion

(Get those multiballs stacked ... )

4 months later
#7390 3 months ago

I am trying to replace the 3 flashers in the speaker panel with red led-strips.

Well obviously it didn't work like i tought it would (otherwise i would not ask this question here )

Does not light up, took a look in the manual flasher-table, it reads :

26 Speaker Panel FL - Low Power - J106-5 - Drive-Trans Q24 - J128-2

The J128-2 was empty, and i found the connector on J124.
So i plugged it over from J124 to J128, now it is lit all the time, not good.

So i went on to take a look at the schematics, and that confused me
Q24 is on the line of J124, not on J128. J128-2 connects to driver Q48

Are the schematics or the flasher-table fault?
Or am i a complete moron and reading all of this wrong?

Before i am going to remove the powerboard and inspect further, i would like to know wh.ich connector i should use, J128 like the manual says or J124 as i understand from the schematics.
Can some shed some light on this for me please?

#7395 3 months ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Pretty sure J124 and J128 are interchangeable-- same number of pins and the same keying. I didn't see J128 on the schematic.

Thanks for your reply!
Still wondering if the schematics OR the manual flasher table is fault.

(J128 is on Sheet 3 of the Powerboard, on the lefthand upper corner)

#7398 3 months ago
Quoted from crank:

Your answer starts around 5:30

Todd to the rescue

Thank you very much crank ! (well it's been on J128, so i guess i blew something up.)

And to answer "What is wrong ..." = Manual flasher table, reads J128 but should be J124 !!

1 month later
#7441 58 days ago
Quoted from Norcalpin:

This is my new BSD that I brought home last week. Took a chance on buying it and having it shipped to me without seeing the actual game but overall pretty happy with it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

May i suggest you set it up, upright..
They play much better that way

(You're welcome )

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