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(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 7,521 posts
  • 623 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by RobF
  • Topic is favorited by 244 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (7 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (7 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (7 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (7 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider terryb.
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#595 7 years ago

Great job on creepy drac. I'm in for one once you have pricing.

1 week later
3 weeks later
#685 7 years ago

Someone was hiding their stash in a pinball game, that's classic.

1 week later
#717 6 years ago

Callmesteam, on the first problem get the manual and read through the switch diagnostics. There will be a switch matrix diagram for correlating the display to the actual switches.

In regards to the mist problems, I doubt if it is the magnet. Although the cable going to the magnet can cause problems. See the following guide on repairing the mist multiball.

1 week later
#755 6 years ago

I'm not a huge mod person, but like the Uncle Fester mod for TAF, the ugly vamp mod by Iamdarras is a must have for BSD. As soon as I get my game back together I'll post photos.

#764 6 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Is that coffin mod available anywhere?

If you mean the ugly vamp contact iamdarras. He's got a post in the last five pages or so with links.

6 months later
#1622 6 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

That describes it like this "It can be adjusted by loosening the three screws holding it in place and sliding the white case towards the front of the game." So i think this is what i will try next.

That should do it. Also make sure a plastic, bracket etc. is not loose and is partially blocking the beam.

4 months later
#2056 6 years ago

The cliffy on the scoop should be flush with the playfield. When installing cliffy's you often have to bend them slightly to create the proper tension so they lay flat when tightened down. It's kind of trial and error but otherwise you'll affect the ball path and scratch up the pinball (which isn't directly a problem, but then it scratches other things like your playfield).

#2059 6 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Terry are you referring to the 7th picture down (rat hole)?


Quoted from NPO:

Could I use some kind of an emblem adhesive to make the Cliffy sit flush? If not, I can do some more trial and error tomorrow.

Not sure what emblem adhesive is, but I've never tried using a removable adhesive with the protector's. I would bounce it off cliffy before going that route.

#2066 6 years ago

Thanks for posting the videos. Very good explanation.

1 month later
#2167 5 years ago
Quoted from JWV:

as the ball can go anywhere between hitting the top of the right slingshot and hitting the middle of the left slingshot in rare cases.

If the ball is hitting various spots as you describe I would guess there is some slop in the mechanism, mech has come loose, missing a screw, etc. Also possible the plunger is not aligned on the pinball and is putting some spin on it.

#2168 5 years ago

Not what you asked for, but if you're interested they can be purchased. I think BAA or Planetary sells them and someone on Pinside also (just google it). I seem to also remember a post on Pinside with the graphic files, but I could be wrong.

1 month later
#2199 5 years ago sells a reproduction of the plastic and I found it at a couple of other places when I was looking about 6 months ago.

#2217 5 years ago
Quoted from JWV:

Ok thanks..
Then the ramp is just "very hard" (for me ) to complete..
@aobrien5: thanks, will check the gap..

The ramp should not be that hard to make. Check the posts as aobrien said, they often get installed in the wrong locations when someone strips the playfield. There's info on which length post goes where somewhere on pinside.

Are you sure it's not a flipper issue? If the flippers haven't been rebuilt lately I would start there.

Hi-res photos that also cover the right side of the ramp would help.

3 weeks later
#2279 5 years ago

Sounds like the 10-opto board is bad. I would think the hot resistors are more likely a result of the board problem rather than the cause of the problem. Most likely the LM339 is defective.

#2296 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Pitch looks good on the bubble level but I will test with the app.

Bubble level is much more accurate than the app, so I would say your pitch is fine. Rebuild the flippers and you should be good to go. It's amazing how a little slop in the mechanics can dramatically reduce the power of a flipper.

1 week later
#2361 5 years ago
Quoted from PsychoPsonic:

Marco only stocks the Vishay.

Thirty bucks cheaper at Pinball Life.

2 months later
#2555 5 years ago

If the right gate is bent, the ball can fall into a position where it does not close either the long beam opto or the short opto. In your case it is most likely unloading the ball because of the short opto rather than the long opto. Run the mist multiball diagnostics and see what happens.

1 month later
#2743 5 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

About the diodes, I see there are many types for sale on pinballcentre. Which ones I need for switches -19 and -21?

1N4004 and then you can use them on coils also.

#2747 5 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Thanks! So do I simply need to solder the end part of the diode to the external fingers of the switch?

Remove the old diode and wires and get a good physical connection (through the hole in the lug and then wrap around) on the new diode and wires and then solder. Make sure the band on the diode and the wires are installed exactly as they where before.

1 week later
#2759 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey, if one of you guys get a chance to look at your entry ramp, can someone tell me if their rivet backings stick out as far as the picture below? Thanks!

No. That washer is too large a diameter and also looks to be too thick.

#2767 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

So, I was playing a game lastnight, and I think my right gate is randomly opening and letting the mist ball out.

Check the spring on the right gate. Also check if the gate is bent outwards, which most of them are, the ball can fall into a position where the opto isn't blocked and the game loses the mist ball.

#2770 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Thanks, Terry. I am assuming if the gate is bent outwards, the ball can roll forward enough to trick the game into thinking the ball is not in the gated area, and it instinctively thinks the ball is not there and opens the gate to "restock" the mist ball?


Quoted from NPO:

I also noticed that in the magnet test as the ball rolls from the left gate to the right gate, the right gate sporadically opens up and down in a VERY weak manner....BUT during the game the gate works perfectly.

The coils are not really strong, but that should not happen. You might want to start a thread on your issues (PM me the post), and yes the two problems may relate and be an issue with the long opto. See the following article on troubleshooting mist multiball.

I would not use di-electric grease in a pinball environment. I think it causes more problems than it solves and is really just masking a problem.

3 weeks later
#2832 5 years ago

Is it a known good board? If you disconnect the board does the game then boot?

2 weeks later
#2882 5 years ago

Clear or light smoked coffin lid from Planetary Pinball. Ugly vamp mod from iamdarras: I went red led and directional (I did my own mod). BSD is torn apart at the moment for new cabinet decals so don't have any photos.

In order for the lighting to work you'll need a semi-transparent drac and a lighter coffin lid. To me those are the keys to getting your lighting to look good.

#2884 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Thats exactly the dracula I was looking at. I'm not sure which coffin lid will work better between the clear or light smoked.

I was scared the clear would be too clear, and while I'm happy with the light smoked I wouldn't mind trying the clear. Bottom line, if you're only going to order one coffin lid I would go with the light smoked--it's the safer choice.

It's hard to see everything he's doing in the video since he has the original dracula, which blocks most of the light. The key really is to get a semi-translucent dracula and lighter coffin lid, then you can do a lot of cool lighting stuff.

I've really got to get my game back together. Just ordered a bunch of translucent and glow in the dark rings that I want to try out.

2 months later
#3024 4 years ago

Mine has the newer style springs. Possibly they got replaced at some point with whatever was on hand.

3 months later
#3241 4 years ago
Quoted from piggidyphish:

Turns out it was getting stuck on the plastic piece that runs parallel to the magnet screw channel on the underside of the playfied

If I'm understanding the piece you're describing it's there to prevent wires or something else from getting caught in the screw drive. There should be no need to remove it, just figure out what's catching and if something is loose or bent then fix it.

3 months later
#3421 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I had this issue. It was a flaky opto. The transmitter had a cracked joint so the light would keep going off, making the game think a ball was in the hole.

This ^^^.

I would just replace both while you're at it.

1 week later
#3449 4 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

I am looking at putting lightning flippers on. Would black or yellow look the best? I am leaning towards black flippers with red rubber. Does anyone have pictures?

Between black and yellow, I would go with yellow. Planetary pinball has a blood red flipper that looks very cool.

Note: Some games where shipped with the blood red flipper (so I've been told).

2 weeks later
#3499 4 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

I've run into an issue where the game ejects two balls at the same time during gameplay?

Go into switch test and check the trough switches and the shooter lane switch. Make sure the balls are not magnetized. If that's all good then remove the apron and watch what is going on when the balls are being ejected.

#3504 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

So nothing as simple as running one of those screwdriver de/magnetizer things over it, huh? I'll have to see if it's a part that's available.

Yes you could use a demagnetizer.

4 weeks later
2 weeks later
#3568 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Green/orange to NO contact
White/yellow to NC contact
Diode from common to NC with the band facing the NC side

Band should be facing the common side.

#3575 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Weird problem with my BSD.. Switch 17 comes up with error. But when I go into switch edge test mode and test it by pushing the switch with my finger it works properly on the DMD screen.

You'll lose your high scores, but I would try a factory reset.

1 week later
#3623 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

it won't repopulate the mistball gate and starts popping two balls out in the shooter lane. that makes sense, since the trough has an extra ball in it. how does the game keep track of that feature? optos?

Go into diag and run the mist magnet test.

#3628 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

does that run the whole process, populating an empty mist gate, etc.? i thought it just moved the magnet back and forth. guess i wasn't patient enough. surprise, surprise...

It runs the whole thing. Takes a couple of minutes to run.

4 months later
#4227 3 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I'm not doubting at all that the ROM fix will make things better for people having a problem, I just wonder if that's the /only/ solution.

Non-ghosting led's will do pretty much the same thing.

1 week later
#4250 3 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

no, not at all. will say 5 ramp hits to light mist still.

Not sure this is your issue, but on normal settings if you have not lit mist multiball by the beginning of your third ball it will be lit automatically. If this is happening before the third ball I would suspect corrupt RAM or ROM.

1 week later
#4291 3 years ago

Just curious how much (if any) people think the fact a game is a re-import lowers the value?

2 months later
#4506 3 years ago
Quoted from ruddiger52:

So if the black housed receiver in the left pocket seems to be working, and in the right pocket I don't see a light in the cell phone test, that means my board is bad or the white opto is bad?

Some phones won't glow with IR so test another opto to make sure you're getting a valid reading. If that's all good then check the voltage across the send opto (one lead on each side). Also check the inductor as noted in the article.

#4529 3 years ago
Quoted from marksf123:

Any help on how to keep the game to power up with english?

Change the jumpers on the board so English is the default language.

Not a great photo, but here's the orientation of the batteries. Make sure the wiring to the board is the same since the battery orientation relates to the wiring.

#4533 3 years ago

As hompin said you can just remove the jumpers (w15-18) and use USA2.

Sorry, here's a link to the picture.

1 week later
#4564 3 years ago
Quoted from ruddiger52:

What should the voltage be on the send opto?

You want to take the reading across the opto. If the opto is working you'll get a small voltage drop. If it's not working you'll read 12-14 volts.

1 week later
#4587 3 years ago
Quoted from shock_me:

For some reason I feel like the Mist Ball should be staying put and the solenoids don't need to be firing. It seems to be acting exactly like a Ball Search to me.

Two seperate issues. For some reason, that I've been unable to determine, the game will sometimes unload the mist ball and then reload it after being power cycled. I've owned 3 BSD's over the years and they all did this. I have never seen the solenoids firing during this process. That sounds like a ball search. Go into switch edge test and make sure all of your switches/optos are working.

2 weeks later
#4614 3 years ago

Do you have contact info for purchasing that?

3 weeks later
#4653 3 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Can anyone measure the length of the hex spacers that hold the village on the left side? I know there are 2 but I don't have the correct size.

If no one answers the measurements for all of the hex spacers are someplace in this thread.

8 months later
#5076 2 years ago
Quoted from Haggy38:

So there's no repair on this one?

Sure, it can be repaired if you want to go through the effort. I would start another thread if you want to go through troubleshooting the board since it may take a few posts. Post the link here or PM me if you start a new thread.

#5083 2 years ago
Quoted from PhillyBilly:

So my first coffin lock just started staying half lit or dim, but it’s on all the time. It fully lights when lock one is triggers. Amy ideas to fix? Change out for non ghosting bulb maybe? All my lamp fuses are fine.

I presume you don't have non-ghosting bulbs? If so you really should change them all out to non-ghosting. The bulb that is coming on all the time is not necessarily the bulb causing the ghosting. Plus I would suspect you have more ghosting than you realize.

#5092 2 years ago
Quoted from Haggy38:

I guess 12v green led strip?

Looks like glow in the dark or UV paint.

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