Great job on creepy drac. I'm in for one once you have pricing.
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Callmesteam, on the first problem get the manual and read through the switch diagnostics. There will be a switch matrix diagram for correlating the display to the actual switches.
In regards to the mist problems, I doubt if it is the magnet. Although the cable going to the magnet can cause problems. See the following guide on repairing the mist multiball.
Quoted from MagicMako:
That pinballrehab.com describes it like this "It can be adjusted by loosening the three screws holding it in place and sliding the white case towards the front of the game." So i think this is what i will try next.
That should do it. Also make sure a plastic, bracket etc. is not loose and is partially blocking the beam.
The cliffy on the scoop should be flush with the playfield. When installing cliffy's you often have to bend them slightly to create the proper tension so they lay flat when tightened down. It's kind of trial and error but otherwise you'll affect the ball path and scratch up the pinball (which isn't directly a problem, but then it scratches other things like your playfield).
Quoted from Glarrownage:
Terry are you referring to the 7th picture down (rat hole)?
Quoted from NPO:
Could I use some kind of an emblem adhesive to make the Cliffy sit flush? If not, I can do some more trial and error tomorrow.
Not sure what emblem adhesive is, but I've never tried using a removable adhesive with the protector's. I would bounce it off cliffy before going that route.
Quoted from JWV:
as the ball can go anywhere between hitting the top of the right slingshot and hitting the middle of the left slingshot in rare cases.
If the ball is hitting various spots as you describe I would guess there is some slop in the mechanism, mech has come loose, missing a screw, etc. Also possible the plunger is not aligned on the pinball and is putting some spin on it.
Not what you asked for, but if you're interested they can be purchased. I think BAA or Planetary sells them and someone on Pinside also (just google it). I seem to also remember a post on Pinside with the graphic files, but I could be wrong.
Pinballcenter.eu sells a reproduction of the plastic and I found it at a couple of other places when I was looking about 6 months ago.
Quoted from JWV:
Then the ramp is just "very hard" (for me ) to complete..
@aobrien5: thanks, will check the gap..
The ramp should not be that hard to make. Check the posts as aobrien said, they often get installed in the wrong locations when someone strips the playfield. There's info on which length post goes where somewhere on pinside.
Are you sure it's not a flipper issue? If the flippers haven't been rebuilt lately I would start there.
Hi-res photos that also cover the right side of the ramp would help.
Sounds like the 10-opto board is bad. I would think the hot resistors are more likely a result of the board problem rather than the cause of the problem. Most likely the LM339 is defective.
Quoted from n0s4atu:
Pitch looks good on the bubble level but I will test with the app.
Bubble level is much more accurate than the app, so I would say your pitch is fine. Rebuild the flippers and you should be good to go. It's amazing how a little slop in the mechanics can dramatically reduce the power of a flipper.
If the right gate is bent, the ball can fall into a position where it does not close either the long beam opto or the short opto. In your case it is most likely unloading the ball because of the short opto rather than the long opto. Run the mist multiball diagnostics and see what happens.
Quoted from Luppin:
Thanks! So do I simply need to solder the end part of the diode to the external fingers of the switch?
Remove the old diode and wires and get a good physical connection (through the hole in the lug and then wrap around) on the new diode and wires and then solder. Make sure the band on the diode and the wires are installed exactly as they where before.
Quoted from NPO:
So, I was playing a game lastnight, and I think my right gate is randomly opening and letting the mist ball out.
Check the spring on the right gate. Also check if the gate is bent outwards, which most of them are, the ball can fall into a position where the opto isn't blocked and the game loses the mist ball.
Quoted from NPO:
Thanks, Terry. I am assuming if the gate is bent outwards, the ball can roll forward enough to trick the game into thinking the ball is not in the gated area, and it instinctively thinks the ball is not there and opens the gate to "restock" the mist ball?
Quoted from NPO:
I also noticed that in the magnet test as the ball rolls from the left gate to the right gate, the right gate sporadically opens up and down in a VERY weak manner....BUT during the game the gate works perfectly.
The coils are not really strong, but that should not happen. You might want to start a thread on your issues (PM me the post), and yes the two problems may relate and be an issue with the long opto. See the following article on troubleshooting mist multiball.
I would not use di-electric grease in a pinball environment. I think it causes more problems than it solves and is really just masking a problem.
Clear or light smoked coffin lid from Planetary Pinball. Ugly vamp mod from iamdarras: http://www.iamdarras.bigcartel.com/product/bsd-ugly-vamp-mod. I went red led and directional (I did my own mod). BSD is torn apart at the moment for new cabinet decals so don't have any photos.
In order for the lighting to work you'll need a semi-transparent drac and a lighter coffin lid. To me those are the keys to getting your lighting to look good.
Quoted from Glarrownage:
Thats exactly the dracula I was looking at. I'm not sure which coffin lid will work better between the clear or light smoked.
I was scared the clear would be too clear, and while I'm happy with the light smoked I wouldn't mind trying the clear. Bottom line, if you're only going to order one coffin lid I would go with the light smoked--it's the safer choice.
It's hard to see everything he's doing in the video since he has the original dracula, which blocks most of the light. The key really is to get a semi-translucent dracula and lighter coffin lid, then you can do a lot of cool lighting stuff.
I've really got to get my game back together. Just ordered a bunch of translucent and glow in the dark rings that I want to try out.
Mine has the newer style springs. Possibly they got replaced at some point with whatever was on hand.
Quoted from piggidyphish:
Turns out it was getting stuck on the plastic piece that runs parallel to the magnet screw channel on the underside of the playfied
If I'm understanding the piece you're describing it's there to prevent wires or something else from getting caught in the screw drive. There should be no need to remove it, just figure out what's catching and if something is loose or bent then fix it.
Quoted from Gorno:
I am looking at putting lightning flippers on. Would black or yellow look the best? I am leaning towards black flippers with red rubber. Does anyone have pictures?
Between black and yellow, I would go with yellow. Planetary pinball has a blood red flipper that looks very cool.
Note: Some games where shipped with the blood red flipper (so I've been told).
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:
I've run into an issue where the game ejects two balls at the same time during gameplay?
Go into switch test and check the trough switches and the shooter lane switch. Make sure the balls are not magnetized. If that's all good then remove the apron and watch what is going on when the balls are being ejected.
Quoted from mollyspub:
no, not at all. will say 5 ramp hits to light mist still.
Not sure this is your issue, but on normal settings if you have not lit mist multiball by the beginning of your third ball it will be lit automatically. If this is happening before the third ball I would suspect corrupt RAM or ROM.
Just curious how much (if any) people think the fact a game is a re-import lowers the value?
Quoted from ruddiger52:
So if the black housed receiver in the left pocket seems to be working, and in the right pocket I don't see a light in the cell phone test, that means my board is bad or the white opto is bad?
Some phones won't glow with IR so test another opto to make sure you're getting a valid reading. If that's all good then check the voltage across the send opto (one lead on each side). Also check the inductor as noted in the article.
Quoted from marksf123:
Any help on how to keep the game to power up with english?
Change the jumpers on the board so English is the default language.
Not a great photo, but here's the orientation of the batteries. Make sure the wiring to the board is the same since the battery orientation relates to the wiring.
Quoted from shock_me:
For some reason I feel like the Mist Ball should be staying put and the solenoids don't need to be firing. It seems to be acting exactly like a Ball Search to me.
Two seperate issues. For some reason, that I've been unable to determine, the game will sometimes unload the mist ball and then reload it after being power cycled. I've owned 3 BSD's over the years and they all did this. I have never seen the solenoids firing during this process. That sounds like a ball search. Go into switch edge test and make sure all of your switches/optos are working.
Quoted from Haggy38:
So there's no repair on this one?
Sure, it can be repaired if you want to go through the effort. I would start another thread if you want to go through troubleshooting the board since it may take a few posts. Post the link here or PM me if you start a new thread.
Quoted from PhillyBilly:
So my first coffin lock just started staying half lit or dim, but it’s on all the time. It fully lights when lock one is triggers. Amy ideas to fix? Change out for non ghosting bulb maybe? All my lamp fuses are fine.
I presume you don't have non-ghosting bulbs? If so you really should change them all out to non-ghosting. The bulb that is coming on all the time is not necessarily the bulb causing the ghosting. Plus I would suspect you have more ghosting than you realize.
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