Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tdex.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Hi everyone new to bsd forum I inherited this awesome machine from my parents. now to the point.
the dreaded but cool mist multiball feature.i replaced the optic board and have the green light and after some fidgeting zero error messages. it worked great for a few games then the ghost in the machine piped up. balls started shooting for no reason, the left gate is stuck open, but worst of all the right gate actuator continuously fires. I,m firing my flair gun
please help!!
Quoted from Colsond3:Did you clean all the mechs? I recently had an issue with two balls kicking into my shooter lane, and it was the VUK in the trough. Just had to remove, clean and reassemble. The posts are a few pages back.
no but as soon as I find out what a VUK is i'm gonna.
Quoted from Colsond3:Did you run a single switch test?
No! but I will first thing in morning, still learning how to trouble shoot.
I feel kinda stupid asking these questions.
well damn! you sure know what you are talking about. Impressive! the left drop switch is #15.
when I check single switches I get what looks like a lowercase t, or a plus sign. and it says open.
now of course I don't know what that means.I don't know what a coin dot is. no weird beeps when booting up.
Quoted from Colsond3:A credit dot is a tiny period to the right of the Y when the words free play comes up. You would get the error message if there was an issue.
Lift up the playfield and check the switch. It’s probably just sticky, or there is an issue with the contacts.
ok! I cleaned the switch with isopropyl alcohol it doesn't seem to be sticking,however I noticed a thin strip of metal that just dangles loosely. looks like a leaf switch. if I shake the table a little it causes the drop target to malfunction. my question is
is that strip of metal supposed to be so loose?
Ok thanks guys. it looks like the switch might not be adjusted correctly. there is a screw at the bottom of the switch assembly that appears to adjust how far the reset assembly moves. I love this game but I may soon be sharing a cell with renfield.
Quoted from Spinape:Are you still using batteries in it?
I just had a new wpc 89 mpu board installed to replace original battery acid destroyed
board. the tech who replaced it removed the battery tray and installed a button battery.
Quoted from Spinape:This sounds like it’s battery related if you keep getting factory reset messages. Try removing it and see if the game freezes without it in. It’s just a flat cell battery?
I took the battery out and no freeze. put battery back and turned off machine factory settings
reset. the battery looks like its one of those cheep Chinese batteries.( due to the Chinese writing on it). I will replace the battery and keep you posted. thanks so much.
Quoted from TDEX:I took the battery out and no freeze. put battery back and turned off machine factory settings
reset. the battery looks like its one of those cheep Chinese batteries.( due to the Chinese writing on it). I will replace the battery and keep you posted. thanks so much.
and yes its a flat cell
Quoted from Spinape:There ya go. Fresh, good battery should get it running properly
aaaaannnnddd
a new battery did the trick. thank you so much. NOW! on to problem #2 a weak plunger. sometimes
it shoots strong but mostly it shoots weak. I cleaned the rod it moves pretty freely.
Hi guys! does anyone have the lighted speaker panel from pinball mods? I recently bought the ultimate panel for my bsd.
the instructions for the universal backbox connector is a little confusing. it lists items but I didn't get an itemized list of parts.
also the round connector on the black wire is way too small for the screw to the left of j117.i tried to contact them two days ago
and haven't heard back yet, this looks like a sweet addition to my bsd and I could use some advise. thanks in advance.
Just finished installing the lighted speaker mod from lighted pinball mods. I have to say this looks so cool. everyone who has seen this addition thinks it is awesome. a couple of hiccups installing it. turns out it was user error. as i'm a little nervous installing electrical items. but after speaking with Dan from lighted pinball mods it went very well. Very cool! 
, couldn't be happier.
Quoted from Colsond3:It’s not overbearing? I saw one at Pinfest last year, and was on the fence to buy one. Pics?
not overbearing at all. I've got the back panel to slowly fade colors and the speaker panel a little faster. you can set to blink faster or stay stationary on any color you like. no regrets. NOW if I could only get my hands on that sweet todd McFarlane
Dracula coffin mod. been jonesin for that one since I saw it
IMG_1572 (resized).JPG
IMG_1573 (resized).JPG
IMG_1574 (resized).JPGQuoted from Colsond3:Looks good. A bit of glare on the PF glass. Would be cool if the illumination went all the way around under the DMD window where the Love Never Dies panel is.
I have a Bent Plastic on mine. I wonder if that would be enough (adequate size) to take down the glare of the speaker panel on the PF glass?
To be honest I hadn't noticed the glare while playing. I see what your talking about on the still pics. and I agree about the love never dies panel.
Quoted from gprotein:Pics of the coffin mod:
[quoted image][quoted image]
I'm interested! how much ?
well, just as I get my machine at 90% working the sound goes in and out. sometimes loud then fading out.
do any of you pinball geniuses have any ideas? YOU GUYS ARE GREAT! you have helped me get to that 90%.love this site.
Just got my coffin mod from Pinball customs. WOW this thing is cool. very well made. A couple questions to anybody that owns one. obviously the tombstone lights are removed,(huge improvement) did you remove the 3 light assembly and the 4 posts under the original coffin. probable dumb questions I know. Thanks in advance.
Well Damn! had to go back a few posts to see what it looks like with tombstone installed. didn't think it would look right,
giving that he's in a crate. may have to re-think that one. maybe with a newer tombstone mod. really don't like the cheap look of the original. it is a bit dark without it though.
Quoted from mollyspub:Why would you remove the tombstone?
You do have to remove the light board and not the posts. However I didn't reinstall the top screws. Gave me just a tad more clearance that I needed.
re attached the tombstone it looks great throws a little light on the coffin. thanks for the tip.
Quoted from Colsond3:Depending where you go, $170 to $250 should be the most for legs, siderails, LD bar and backbox hinges.
ok thanks sounds reasonable.
I had to look up comet matrix on the internet. This is so cool. I didn't know it existed.i always hated how dark the coffin tunnel
is NOW I have a solution. again, thanks for the tip.
Quoted from mollyspub:Ran a Comet Matrix to mine. Tombstone mod painted by Modfather[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks,my original speakers are sounding pretty rough. these are a great option less than $50
Quoted from Colsond3:[quoted image]
Quoted from mollyspub:Ran a Comet Matrix to mine. Tombstone mod painted by Modfather[quoted image][quoted image]
Just received my matrix lights from comet. Looks Amazing! had to hot glue red lights in coffin mod as surface was too rough for the lights to stick to. and put a strip of green lights under coffin above the coffin ramp. I couldn't be happier. thanks for the tip.
Quoted from TigerLaw:And I’m finally in the club!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
NICE! I like everything about your machine. especially the black and red powder coating. (not to mention that awesome coffin mod).
Hello everyone here’s my latest problem.
The “D” and the “A” in dracula wont light up at all. I re soldered the light bar to build up where the light makes contact
And re soldered the coresponding pin in the connector. I’m not an electrician but i think i did a pretty good job with the soldering. Any help would be appreciated.
I reversed the leads on every diode on the light board continuity only in one direction. checked the wires in the led's
everything seems ok. checked voltage to hot wire (which is new territory for me) reading 12.8 to 13.4 volts.
ok I used the alligator clips and found the "A" had current very positional. I think I have to build up solder on the light board.
it works for a bit then when I move table back down it goes out. The "D" however doesn't have current. I used the DMM for voltage and got nothing. the "R" next to it registered voltage. not sure what I am looking for with the header pins. cracks?
Quoted from TDEX:ok I used the alligator clips and found the "A" had current very positional. I think I have to build up solder on the light board.
it works for a bit then when I move table back down it goes out. The "D" however doesn't have current. I used the DMM for voltage and got nothing. the "R" next to it registered voltage. not sure what I am looking for with the header pins. cracks?
Quoted from tktlwyr:I would start to be suspicious of cold solder joints on the driver board. Neither of the lights is on the same row or column otherwise you'd have other lights that didn't work, so it doesn't appear to be a logic issue.
The 4 header pin areas I would look at next on the power driver board are J133-4, J133-9, J137-2 and J137-4.
Report back.
I swapped out j133 to j134 no go on "D"". then swapped j133 to j 135 no change. j135 had a connector with 2 wires in it.
plugged that into j134.no change. the "A" works very well for a short time then goes out and doesn't come back on. the "D"
doesn't work at all. I really appreciate your help. I also swapped j137 with j138. same results.
Quoted from tktlwyr:Connector J133 powers the lamp board and is interchangeable with J134 and J135. Swap the connector on J133 to either J134 or J135 and see if there’s any change on the “D”. If ”D” now lights, reflow some solder on the back side of the header pins for J133. I’d probably carefully flow solder on all three sets of header pins since they are interchangeable and I’m not sure if these connectors are on their properly numbered headers on the board. This may fix the “A”, as well.
Connector J137 drives the lamp board, ie completes the path to the transistors, which complete the path to ground. This connector is interchangeable with J138. If “A” is still lighting due to playfield position, swap J137 with J138. If this fixes “A”, reflow on J137 and J138 as above.
Report back.
today I turned on drac as I do everyday. the machine made a humming noise and the dmd was all random dots. I immediately
turned it off waited a minute turned it back on. it booted up after a slight hesitation and said factory reset. the dmd was fine
but the left flipper won't work. the flipper button has power because when I push it the three target lights at the top of the playfield will move.i re programmed the settings turned off the machine waited a few minutes turned back on and factory reset
again. any insight would be greatly appreciated.
thanks lost cause for the feedback. the battery is relatively new less than 2 years. old button cr2032. I re seated ribbon cables
and made sure all connections to lt flipper were good. cpu is new replacement Rotten Dog. flipper test works great on rt. flipper nothing on lt. flipper. machine will turn on but not allow start button to work. only when I go into test will the game allow play.
Quoted from Lostcause:Check the battery’s haven’t leaked and are not flat.
Go into settings and test flipper, if not working check wires are still connected below flipper if ok reseat connectors on fliptronics board.
Maybe also reseat ribbon cables, the wide thin ones as the dmd went weird.
Hopefully you don’t have battery acid leaking on your mpu board.
Hopefully something simple.
good call on the flipper fuse. I did check for continuity on the fliptronic board. I must have missed that one.f901 was indeed blown. replaced it and the cr2032 battery Christmas miracle the Lt. flipper came back to life. and factory reset is fixed.
Thank you so much!!!
Quoted from Lostcause:Have you tried testing the switches in switch test? If not try it and see if any switches are not working.
Sometimes the connectors on the bottom of the cpu board for switches might need reseating.
Maybe also check the fuses, one of the flippers fuses blew on my TZ and was fine after I put in a replacement.
Quoted from TDEX:good call on the flipper fuse. I did check for continuity on the fliptronic board. I must have missed that one.f901 was indeed blown. replaced it and the cr2032 battery Christmas miracle the Lt. flipper came back to life. and factory reset is fixed.
Thank you so much!!!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tdex.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside
Charter Township Of Clinton, MI
