(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (7 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (7 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (7 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (6 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (6 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (6 years ago)

Post #416 Plunger rebuild parts. Posted by vintage4life (6 years ago)

Post #483 Gameplay / Instruction cards Posted by tilted81 (6 years ago)

Post #563 Playfield Protector Posted by phishrace (6 years ago)

Post #677 Mystery Hole rewards Posted by Jodester (6 years ago)

Post #701 Coffin Ramp Rejecting fix - Clear plastic under headstone Posted by 27dnast (6 years ago)

Post #890 Pinball Rebel Instruction cards Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #958 Mounting the prototype plastics Posted by Drano (5 years ago)

Post #975 Mist Gate Troubleshooting Posted by Bryan_Kelly (5 years ago)

Post #1002 Making a Left Mist Gate? - Click the link Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #1065 BSD Shop Out Guide Posted by gtown (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#565 6 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Where would be the best place to find mylar in general?

Plastics store, if you have one nearby. If not...

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_sheets_rolls/mylar_rolls_clear/255

.005 for best protection (around flipper buttons, ball drops), .002 for light duty.

2 weeks later
#648 6 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

Any other thoughts/opinions.

If you haven't already, run the *magnet test* and watch the display for errors. Especially between ball movements, when the flashers go off. The magnet test is the last test under the test menu. Also, in *switch test*, roll a ball over your trough switches to make sure they are all working properly.

Quoted from ryan1234:

I think mine is L-1..... does that sound right?

That's the only revision for BSD. It has some minor bugs, but not what you are seeing. Last resort, try a hard factory reset by pulling the batteries and unplugging the game for 5 minutes.

3 months later
#964 5 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

I used 4 of these to mount the prototype plastics:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4250-16
You'll need a couple of extra nuts as well.
The right plastic requires the 1" spacer in order to just get under the ramp return (you should loosen the ramp a little at the bottom), but the left plastic almost needed to be a little higher. I was unsure what would work so I purchased 1-1/4" spacers as well. These were perfect for the left side... but it looked uneven. So, I just went with 1" on both sides and forced the left plastic against the ramp wireform a little. It was fine.
If you go smaller, you'll interfere with other plastics. Any taller and it looks weird.

A friend let me borrow a couple for my game and the holes weren't close on either side. No idea if they are repros or not. I used the bottom sling post, but the upper hole didn't align on either side. Not nearly close enough. I used shorter standoffs there resting on the top of the factory sling plastic (with a small patch of mylar on each side to prevent damage).

Short story: Depending on if your holes line up or not, you may have to get creative.

#965 5 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

I'm looking to upgrade my BSD to an even nicer BSD. If anyone has a top condition BSD in the SF Bay Area/Nor Cal area that you'd let go, please pm me with details & price.

Have you played mine at Pizza Depot in Sunnyvale? It's about as nice as they come. Not currently for sale, but I don't mind offers. (and quarters in the coin box d

#969 5 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

If you look closely at the original sling plastics, you will see there is an unused hole in both. This was originally meant to hold a spacer. Just take a new 1" hex post and attach it on top of the sling plastic by threading a machine screw from underneath.

The holes are there. They don't line up. You can hold them over the existing slings and see that they don't line up.

Quoted from Drano:

The top post on the existing slings in not used at all.

I probably didn't word it right, but yes, I'm aware of that. Did you buy yours from the link above? My friend wasn't sure where he got his.

#972 5 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

I never removed the lower sling to install these

Neither did I. Just held them in place and looked down through the holes. I could quickly tell they weren't close.

Quoted from Drano:

Check the close-ups on pg6 to see if they look like the ones you had.

That looks correct. Very nice. Mine aren't. The top standoffs on mine just rest on top of the factory sling plastics. No one can tell though, so I can live with it. I'd take pics to show folks, but it's out on location.

Quoted from Drano:

And yes, I got them from that link.

Worth repeating considering how far mine are off.

#991 5 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

REPAIR: Have to find a way to secure the backbox in the upright position. The wood on the bottom of the backbox is "crumbling" for lack of a better word, and the hardware has fallen off. The head is staying in place purely on faith right now.

You need two bolts in the head to attach the head to the lower cabinet. Remove the translite, then lift and remove the speaker panel and you'll see the two holes in the bottom of the head for the bolts. The threads are the same size as leg bolts. The latch that fell off isn't meant to securely attach the head to the rest of the game. You need the bolts.

#1012 5 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Once every 40 games or so, if a ball hits the center or left target on the stand-up bank straight up the middle...

You didn't mention that in the other thread and that is a huge clue. See the other thread (since it's more on topic) for a possible solution.

#1028 5 years ago
Quoted from Prefect:

Why did they design design this using two springs?

Only one spring should be connected to the wire gate. Having the correct spring installed and having it positioned properly is key. Wrong spring will never work. The correct spring installed incorrectly won't work either.

http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=35880&zoom=1

Bending the bracket (actuator) or the wire gate shouldn't be needed. If you've bent either, I would suggest replacing them. The movement of that gate is very small. You can get a small amount of play from the two mounting screws for the assembly on the side rail. Use that play to adjust the height of the gate.

#1031 5 years ago
Quoted from Prefect:

What I mean is why does this setup use 2 springs? One spring is connected to the gate and the other holds the arm to create a pivot. To me at least, one of those springs or maybe both could have been replaced with a stiff piece of wire. I am kind of questioning why springs were used here in the first place.

That type of mechanism has been used in pinball for over 80 years now. If you have a better idea, I'm sure they'd be happy to hear it. It's simple, and it works (assuming you don't bend anything). Neither of my gates have ever had issues.

Are you suggesting some sort of torsion spring (wire)? I'm having a hard time picturing what you're suggesting.

Quoted from Prefect:

I also resoldered the connections thinking maybe the actuator wasn't moving the arm enough due to the connection being week.

If you bent the part that moves the spring, you should get a new one. If you have the correct springs and haven't bent the wire gate, that should fix it.

2 weeks later
#1125 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Is it Sharpied?

If you look at the pic full size, touchup has definitely been done on the red.

On the plus side, the purple looks nice, which it rarely does in pics. Often you can barely see it. Also, how red the reds are doesn't affect gameplay in the least.

3 months later
#1635 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

They do not open at the same time and I don't believe there is a switch with the magnet/motor under the playfield that triggers it.

There are microswitches under the playfield on each side. When the magnet assembly gets to either side, it pushes those switches closed. They are shown in the switch matrix as Magnet Left and Magnet Right. I believe those switches open the gates, shut off magnet power and the power to the motor that moves the magnet.

#1639 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Those switches don't trigger the gate, they just trigger the Magnet Left/Right and stop the motor. If that also opened the gate, then the ball wouldn't make it into the pocket.

You may be right. Don't have my game nearby to check. Technically, they don't trigger magnet left/right. They are the magnet left/right switches. The long range and pocket optos likely tell the CPU to move the magnet left or right. The magnet left/right switches are shown in the switch matrix, but don't show in the display during magnet test.

#1651 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

It registered dropping it in the mystery hole, but the left side magnet pocket the optos aren't registering.

Inspect that Mystery switch closely. It's the last switch on that column and it's the only non-opto switch on that column. One lug should have two green and black wires attached. One to the CPU, one to the opto board. (going by the manual, my game is on location)

I think you guys would do better posting problems in the tech section. It's hard to help folks in this thread when 2 or 3 problems are being posted about at the same time. Plus, there's some awesome techs out there that don't own a BSD, but are very familiar with WPC problems.

#1655 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

I was looking under the playfield literally at the switch that gets tripped by the ball as it goes down the hole.

That's exactly what I was suggesting. Checking the connections to that switch.

Quoted from n0s4atu:

Where is this column?

The column can be seen in the switch matrix diagram in the manual on page 3-4. Columns listed on top (with wire colors), rows listed down the left side. If you don't have a manual, you can download one at the link below.

http://ipdb.org/search.pl

Quoted from n0s4atu:

Actually what I really hope is for the game to miraculously never need repair, but that seems unlikely.

Mine is on location and is extremely reliable. Yours may turn out the same.

3 months later
#1945 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Go into switch test mode. Have all 3 balls in hand, and roll them down the castle lock habit trail one at a time, taking note as to the order of the castle locks engaged. It should be 1 --> 2 --> 3. Let us know if the order is correct.

Also make sure the ramp (wireform) that holds the locks up is tightly secured to the lower playfield below. If that screw is loose, it was cause two balls to release.

Quoted from AJNada:

Also, the Rats outhole fires out randomly every time. Sometimes on top of the right slingshot, sometimes to the right flipper, or even SDTM.

Remove it and clean it thoroughly. Make sure the metal where the balls sits before it's ejected isn't bent down or not square in any way. Look for cracks or breaks in welds.

#1946 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

One issue that I can't figure out though is the ball plunge sound is intermittent. Ya know, the scream/jet engine sound upon firing the ball haha. It works about 30-40 percent of the time.

Put it into switch test and test the shooter lane switch with a ball or your finger. You may need to adjust the actuator or replace the switch if it's intermittent. That switch opening (when the ball is launched) is what triggers the sound clip.

#1951 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

Phishrace, awesome thanks that's what I kind of thought. I tested the shooter lane switch (with finger and a ball) in switch edge test and it works fine. Is it possible that it would still be flaky and not trigger the sound clip? I also sometimes get a switch 41 (ball trough) error. It appears the balls aren't rolling across the trough switches like they should sometimes. Could that contribute to the shooter lane switch problem maybe? Thanks everyone!

Likely your trough switch that is causing the issue. Check for grooves in the trough, magnetized balls and adjust/ replace switch 41. Remove the apron and roll a ball slowly over each trough switch while in switch test for starters.

#1981 5 years ago
Quoted from movingpictures:

I also notice the switch plate has some play and I can move it around.

That play is at least part of your problem. Can't have any play. With the power off, and the playfield raised, reach around and knock down the drop target to determine the best position for the switch when tightened into place. Repeat if needed. You likely don't need to adjust (bend) the actuator. Just tighten the switch in the proper position. If either hole is stripped, you may need to replace the bracket or add nuts to the back of the screws. Either way, switch should have zero play.

Quoted from movingpictures:

Found the reset plate and spring, but the part # for the microswitch yields no results.
Can I use any standard microswitch ?
Thx

Part number for switches are listed on the switch location page of the manual. And no, any old microswitch won't work. Needs the long actuator.

1 month later
#2074 5 years ago
Quoted from Solder_Splash:

One thing that I can't seem to figure out. When the ball comes out of the VUK after entering the mystery hole it will very often defy gravity and roll backwards up the wire form before rolling back down into the left inlane. It appears to have an awful backspin coming out of the VUK which probably has something to do with it. Anyone else experience this?

Does it bounce, or is it all spin? Inspect the up kicker and make sure the plunger tip hits the ball squarely. If you loosen the coil mounting screws, you should get a little play to adjust with.

#2092 5 years ago

I know I've posted it here before, but it looks like I haven't in this thread...

I'm not a mod guy. In fact, you could say I'm an anti-mod guy. I just don't care for most of them and I believe my friends and customers should be able to play a game as close as possible to what the designer intended. However, my Drac came with upgraded flipper coils. 11629's. And they are spectacular. I would never dream of removing them. With those coils, the steeper I make it, the more fun it is. Seriously.

The game has factory nicked up ramps and they haven't suffered any more damage in the 5 or so years that I've had it. And most of the time it's been out on location. It's also been used in the tourney at CAX multiple times. By far, I get more compliments for Drac than any of my other games. The kicker is that most folks don't even realize they're playing a game with upgraded flipper coils. They just know the game is really fun to play. It has white rubbers and lightning bats, but I never wax the SP playfield. Don't need to. The 11629's are like permanent wax.

If you're considering modding your BSD, I highly recommend this mod.

#2096 5 years ago
Quoted from Solder_Splash:

Adjusting the left inlane wire form where it attaches to the slingshot post resolved this issue.

Sweet. That's also the fix for balls that moonwalk up the inlane (into the outlane) after being kicked out by the VUK, which is what I initially thought your problem was. Glad you got it fixed.

#2097 5 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

If you're considering modding your BSD, I highly recommend this mod.

Forgot to mention...

The other 'mod' I have on this game is conventional blue flipper rubbers. I've found that they are generally a little softer than factory black rubbers, which allows for better ball control. They're also fairly consistent in hardness too, unlike much softer conventional red or yellow rubbers. With these rubbers (and the upgraded coils), I can jack it up past 7 degrees and still make either ramp no problem.

I know I'm biased, but this setup is the best example of Fliptronic flippers I ever played. The flippers are snappy as hell, the control is outstanding, and despite the short lightning bats, the overall feel is perfect. If you want to learn how to do post passes using lightning bats, this is the setup to do it.

2 weeks later
#2123 5 years ago

Opto should stay open. Look for loose connections above and below the playfield or just replace the opto pair. A cracked lead on either opto (which can't be seen unless you remove it) will give you the symptoms you're seeing. Vibration when the ball arrives causes intermittent connection.

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