(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

6 years ago

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  • 573 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by Nihonmasa
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Topic index (key posts)

31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (6 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (6 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (6 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (6 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (6 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (6 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (6 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (6 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (6 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (6 years ago)

Post #416 Plunger rebuild parts. Posted by vintage4life (6 years ago)

Post #483 Gameplay / Instruction cards Posted by tilted81 (6 years ago)

Post #563 Playfield Protector Posted by phishrace (6 years ago)

Post #677 Mystery Hole rewards Posted by Jodester (5 years ago)

Post #701 Coffin Ramp Rejecting fix - Clear plastic under headstone Posted by 27dnast (5 years ago)

Post #890 Pinball Rebel Instruction cards Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #958 Mounting the prototype plastics Posted by Drano (5 years ago)

Post #975 Mist Gate Troubleshooting Posted by Bryan_Kelly (5 years ago)

Post #1002 Making a Left Mist Gate? - Click the link Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #1065 BSD Shop Out Guide Posted by gtown (5 years ago)

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#1715 5 years ago

I may be joining this club within the week's end....looking forward to joining this thread in the near future!

#1736 5 years ago

GOT MINE >:O>:O!!!


I got this one from a local club member.

There were three different Pinsiders who left me hanging on here .

#1738 5 years ago
Quoted from trimoto:

cool glad you picked one up....

You weren't one of the three. I had ALOT of feelers out there.

#1739 5 years ago

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What a great wifey. Already cleaning the pin and we haven't even set it up yet!

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#1740 5 years ago

First problem fixed already. Got the skill shot lights in the back to behave.

#1743 5 years ago

Ok dok, I got a question or two.

1. So, whenever I lock a ball in Castle Lock, my machine unloads one ball from the trough into the machine, then after that one is active, it releases the "Locked Castle Ball" and fires it onto the playfield as well. I can let one of the two balls drain, and the game keeps going; it does NOT prematurely end the ball - thank goodness.

I know the diverter is very gummed up and needs to be cleaned. I am just waiting on the coil sleeve and spring to do the job 2 ways: right and once. Any other ideas/areas I should investigate?

2. I have some nasty alignment issues with my coffin ramps where the "flip" ramp and the hard plastic ramp meet. Please see pictures below:

Picture 042.jpg

Picture 038.jpg

Picture 039.jpg

Picture 040.jpg

This alignment is so off that pretty much zero balls will go up through the coffin habit trail. It totally kills any chance of getting triple stack multiball. Even if the ball does clear the gap, it will roll almost to the switch and STILL roll backwards. So ....

I have read this whole thread up to this point, and I understand there are three circle posts that hold this entrance up, and they are VERY similar in length. Does anyone know the RIGHT orientation of these circular posts? I only want to do this once.

Reference photo of the posts in question. Thank you Pinster68 for this picture:


#1745 5 years ago

Hey Joe,

So, you're saying that the metal lip of the "flip up/down" ramp overlaps the plastic edge of the hard plastic ramp (the one that eventually leads to a habit trail) ? If so, that sounds right; I just need to get the circular posts in the right place and order.

Does anyone know the orientation of those 3 circular posts?

#1747 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Your bigger problem is probably the missing top clear plastic.

Hey AO,

So, I have the clear plastics on their way. A fellow Pinsider makes them, and I was able to snag a set; I am just waiting for it to come in the mail. My understanding is that plastic keeps the ball from going too airborne and ricocheting backwards back down the ramp.

Quoted from aobrien5:

That post may be too big. The posts in your pic are for holding to coffin, and they go shortest to tallest, front to back. The ones for the ramp may or may not be different sizes.

I am a bit confused here. When you say "posts in your pic" - I assume you mean the last picture in my post that was originally Pinster68's? Are there only 3 posts that hold the coffin up?

I noted that my hard plastic coffin ramp is missing anchoring screws - look like 8-32 screws. If so, I am sure that along with missing the clear plastic are two of my problems.

But, I really want to make sure I understand this: how many circular posts hold up the coffin ramp - the hard plastic coffin ramp? I just have a bad feeling someone swapped them for whatever reason. My ball will get nearly to the roll-over switch on the hard coffin ramp and STILL roll backwards. I can't help but believe that someone put the circular posts back in and totally put them in the wrong orientation. I want to go in and fix this if they are in the wrong order.

Keep the help coming guys. I sure do appreciate it! I got more lights working underneath the PF tonight. Also, got the ball launch button to light up again. There was like....bellybutton lint.... or something in the light socket ...

#1751 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Yes about the pastiche and picture reference. There are 6 posts holding the coffin, a pair of each of the sizes in that pic.
There are 3 posts holding the ramp itself, and they may or may not be of different sizes. Hopefully there are some shop pics to help identify those.

Gotcha my man. I sure appreciate the help. I'll just wait patiently for my clear plastic to come in the mail, and then I can at least get that installed. We'll see if it works any better once that is in. I have a feeling I'll be going back in to re-arrange the circular posts.

Anyone have any idea as to why Castle Lock not only loads a new ball into the shooter lane, but then also unlocks the Castle Locked ball as well? Thankfully, once I let one of the balls drain, there is no pre-mature end to that ball; however, it is annoying D: ...

#1753 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Check all your castle lock optos and trough switches. Make sure the right number of balls are installed in the game (4).

Definitely have 4 balls installed - 3 trough and 1 mist. This BSD has an opto board from Great Lakes Modular if anyone is familiar with this unit - please let me know. Link for it is here:


It is the model board: OSB-10A

I am considering getting the unit Homepin has available, but first I am going to do some testing of this GLM unit. Thankfully, the instructions came with it, and those instructions come with some troubleshooting steps, which I can look at this weekend.

BIG QUESTION here: The opto boards discussed here...are they just for mist multiball, or do they control all the optos throughout the game?

AF has me training alot right now, so this weekend will be a good time to look at this. I did receive notification today that my clear plastics have shipped, so I'll be able to install those soon! I am basically waiting on those, as the ball not ever making it up the coffin ramp totally kills this game ....(in terms of going for 30's)

#1756 5 years ago

Man, you guys are opening the flood gates!! I love it - thank you for so many responses! I'll get some picture spu later tonight. I got to go PT real quick - a quick lil run, and then I'll get back to you guys.

I plan to take the diverter apart this weekend, so it'll be a a lil' bit before I can get back to everyone on that. I can diagnose the switches though tomorrow - no problem!

I'll get pictures up of the hardware on my BSD hopefully later tonight. Thanks again for all the help and insight!

#1758 5 years ago

I am SO putting a check in the mail for a plastics set. Heck to the yeah. Now when the ramps come out as well - man......!!!!

#1759 5 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

I would check the switch matrix and make sure all your trough switches are registering and that your shooter lane switch is working. I had a similar error a few years ago and it was a malfunctioning switch. 2) The opto 10 board runs all the,optos around the game except the mist ball. The mist ball uses the opto 24 board. So take a screen shot of ur matrix in diagnostic mode and post it.

Howdy fellas,

So, I jumped into BSD tonight and started changing some incads to LEDs. While in there, I took some pictures and video of the ball trough switch behavior for everyone. Tell me what you think. The video can show what is happening better than I can describe it.

I am going to hold off on posting the picture for now, because my picture does show all 3 ball trough switches active, BUT.... I can't remember when that photo was taken, so I need to do another video and take a picture of the screen again.

More to come tomorrow night. Stay tuned, and thanks again for everyone's insights!

#1767 5 years ago

Hey guys, thank you so much for such thorough responses today! I just got home from work, and I plan on taking out the switches and cleaning them up a good bit. I wonder if I swapped switches #44 (for the 4th ball when you get triple stacked multiball going) and #42 if everything would behave (except during triple stacked multiball of course). I'll start doing some diagnostics later tonight.

We have some friends coming over for a possible pinball party tonight, so if I don't get to it tonight, I'll get some updates going this weekend. My clear plastics for the coffin ramp and CT LEDs should be coming in tomorrow. Prototype slingshot plastics are coming from Europse - prolly later in the week...!!

#1774 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Anyone in need of a new backboard decal? Mine is trashed and I need to see about getting another made. Might make more if there's any interest.

Do you mean the side backboard decals?

#1775 5 years ago

Just an update, I got my clear plastic for the coffin ramp today from jasonpaulbauer. Got it partially installed (installing new bolts in the circular posts) - works 100% so far - hit the ramp multiple times with zero issues.

Anyone that needs this particular plastic, you can get it from him at his Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/transaction/213513987

Going to play a couple games, and then get back to work on diagnosing my Castle Lock issue per the recommendations of everyone here. I'll keep everyone posted! Thanks everyone!

P.S. - what is the other plastic in the set for??

#1776 5 years ago

More progress - started cleaning up the PCBs underneath the PF. Man, these things may have never been cleaned..... yuck....

Here's the PCB for the cross insert. Note one of the "sideways mounted" bulb holders was broken off (came that way with my machine), before and after cleanup.

Question: does anyone know if you can get the mounted sideways bulb socks that have to be soldered into this PCB? I think I can fix the old one, but if new ones are available - well ..... Marco is getting another order from me already - mount as well throw that in there ...

B&A pics:

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#1778 5 years ago
Quoted from kevinleedrum:

Above the entry ramp (top right corner of pic).

img_3877.jpg 120 KB

Good man, thank you! Mine didn't even have that. Got one now!

#1779 5 years ago

Well, today was pretty productive. Changed nearly every insert light to LED. Got the clear plastics added.

Sunday, move onto the "Cross" PCB - see if we can get that lamp socket soldered back on. Need to start looking at how to best remove the subways to get to the last few insert bulbs.

Also, troubleshooting the beacon lamp on HS2.

Overall, pretty productive weekend so far. Will diagnose the Castle Lock and Diverter later in the week at this rate. BSD takes a good bit of time to shop all the lights to LEDs ....

Will keep everyone posted on the diagnosis of the C.L. and Div.

#1782 5 years ago
Quoted from onetaste:

I've got the same thing on my BSD however the ball gets around no problem, some times a little slow. I've seen photos of others' machines with the same thing.

Since I posted this, my clear plastic for that ramp came in and has been installed. Pretty much no issues now - I think I have had only one rejection since installing it! Jalpert says he knows how to install washers on that "flip up" ramp to make the alignment better. Just waiting to hear from him on that one.

#1783 5 years ago

So, I got some more work done today. Nearly all inserts have LEDs now, just have to remove the subway for the last few, and I need to get some LED flashers for that area, so it is on hold. The "D" insert in Dracula was intermittently lighting up, so I soldered all the pins with fresh solder, and all is good there. A couple quick pictures - nothing too earth-moving, but some excellent progress.

Wife and I played a couple quick games; man, this game is fricking awesome!

My workplace as I started this morning D: ...

Some bulbs had been in here a LONG time...

DRACULA PCB before cleaning

...and after cleaning and reflow of new solder!

#1785 5 years ago

LEDs pretty much done - all inserts with the exception of those underneath the subways and all GI with the exception of the one underneath the left ramp and I believe one within the coffin.

I was trying some new stuff with this. Definitely on the verge of the "skittles" realm - just trying something different. Can always change it back if it does not work out .

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#1787 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Looking good. Don't forget the backbox!

Soon my man! It has all white and red LEDs now (came like that) - I saw some posts here with some excellent color diagrams on what to do to liven it p. I definitely plan on doing that too - maybe later tonight !

#1788 5 years ago

Hey guys,

Need a lil' help. I am looking at ordering some things from Marco soon, and I want to get all new trough switches - just in case. So I looked up the part #: 5647-00957-00 for trough switch 2, 3, and 4...and #5647-12693-08 for trough switch 1.

Trough 2 through 4 on Marco: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5009-00
Trough 1 on Marco: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-08

Now - the picture for switches 2 through 4 looks similar, but it lacks the "V" shaped trigger wire that the balls roll over. Do those come off the old switches and get installed on the new ones? If not, what is the correct switch to buy? The reference picture on Marco does not install me with confidence; I don't see how the balls would trigger those tiny switch arms.

Thanks everyone!

#1793 5 years ago

So I got some parts in today!!!

Got this from Classic Arcade today:

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Also, got the prototype plastics and stationary target decals in!

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Lastly, got the LEDs in the translite per the setup MrBellMan was gracious enough to share with us. I left the reds in where Dracula's name goes, but other than that, I did exactly the same setup.

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Now, I am waiting on the hex spacers to properly install the prototype plastics . Such first world problems.

#1796 5 years ago

More easy installs - 4 new pinballs and PinballCard.com's custom apron cards.

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Another order with Marco tonight. Got more parts for BSD coming!

#1797 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Where'd you get the target decals? Been looking for a cheap place to get those.

The place - not cheap ($12) - but there they are:


Same place I got the proto plastics.

#1798 5 years ago

Double Post - my bad.

#1802 5 years ago

So, I was having some wild issues with my BSD the last 24 hours. Watch the video for more, including the solution.

So glad to have figured that one out. Basically, my opto transmitter and receiver were out of alignment, causing all sorts of crazy issues.

Magnet test was failing before Opto Test 1 could even begin - kept coming up with "Magnet Unload" error. Then when going into attract mode, the game would not pop a ball into the shooter lane, lift the ramp, and deposit the ball into the right gate area (transmitter side of the game).

Man, that was driving me nuts. If any of this ever happens to you totally out of the blue, CHECK the alignment of your opto transmitter and receiver.

Finally got the game put back together and played a well-deserved game. I got owned, but it felt so good to play a full game with zeo issues (other than a trough switch needing to be serviced as well as my diverter).

#1805 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Also @NewPinOwner - is that a plain green launch button you have? Is your machine by chance a German re-import? That's the same launch button I had on mine, where as they typically have the red "Launch Ball" button. I figured it was just replaced some time down the road, but now I wonder.

My launch button is bare white. I actually have a new unit ready to install tomorrow after work. It does look to be a re-import, but I would not know how to determine its origins. Funny thing, parts of the INSIDE of the cabinet are made from an old WH2O; you can clearly see the side cabinet art on the inside of my cabinet ...

I'll take some pictures soon so you can see. It really is a trip.

#1806 5 years ago

Well, got some more things done to BSD over the last 24 hours. Installed some new lower translite trim. Had to cut it to the right length, but I think it came out pretty well.


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Installed a new launch ball button. Had to do some small de-solder and soldering to the new switch that came with the button - overall looks great!

What my BSD came with:
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Quick picture of the old switch:

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New switch:

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And finally, the new button installed:

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Next, I soldered a new lamp socket that had been broken off the "cross" PCB


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Old broken solder joints cleaned up and ready:

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New lamp socket soldered in place:

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And finally, all cross inserts lit for the first time in 2 weeks :

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Got some more "new" trim to install. Still need to replace a trough switch as one of them is sticking each time Castle Lock occurs - essentially creating a quick 2 ball multiball. Need to clean the Castle Lock post as well as the diverter. Once these things are done, I think we'll have a 100% perfectly working BSD. Maybe ._.

#1808 5 years ago

Thanks AO!! And thank you for all your help and suggestions with everything lately. You've answered practically every question I've thrown out here, and I am super grateful.

At first, honestly, I was in over my head a tiny bit on this BSD, but now, we're really close to being caught up. I paid $2300 for it, and what I was really paying for was a x < 1 hour drive. I'm tired of 5 to 8 hr drives each way - no more of that for a while .

#1810 5 years ago
Quoted from achtungboyy:

Looking good. I wish there were more mod for BSD.

Thank you! I am thinking about doing the light up cross mods. Those look really good.

Got some more stuff done today. Nothing SUPER fancy, but it's all this little stuff that adds up!

So, installed new rear glass trim today:


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And after:

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Finally finished off the inserts with LEDs. Now all that's left is one in the coffin, one pop bumper, and the 2 underneath the main left ramp.

Changed out the coil sleeve for the disappearing post. Put on a small drop of oil on the spring, wiped off the excess, and sandpapered all the grime off the metal brackets. Seems to be operating a lot more smoothly now! I had to modify a sleeve I had that was the right length but with an exterior ring. I grinded the ring off, so now it fits like it should. I'll order the correct one from Marco very soon.

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Lastly as of now, I changed out my start button. Got tired of having to push it 10 times to get the game to start. Had to crimp on some new female connectors as the male spade was too big for some of the female ends on the pin's wiring harness.

Old unit:

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New on left, old on right:

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New one installed!

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And finally, front view of the new unit:

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Still have to clean up the diverter. I was playing with the glass off, and when the diverter operates, I can hear something buzzing for 3+ seconds, as if the diverter is sticking. Got a new coil sleeve ready for it too. Going to get some isopropyl alcohol and clean it up. Hopefully, that'll make it behave.

Still have to figure out the "mini multiball" every time Castle Locks occur. The optos all trip correctly in switch test mode, and I don't believe I have a sticky switch as all of the rollover arms were clearly in the up position with the apron off. Maybe there's something I am overlooking.... we'll see.

Back I go!

#1811 5 years ago

Ok, so I got the diverter working again. Let me tell you this: be VERY patient in this area. Take lots of pictures, and TAKE your time doing this. On my BSD, there are multiple bundles of wiring near this diverter coil, and man, it was a test of my patience and understanding.

So, for reference for anyone who may need them, here are some pictures of the diverter assembly under the PF:

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Picture of the old and new coil sleeve:

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Now, when you assemble this area, that 8-32 bolt with locking washer and 8-32 locking hexnut will be a MAJOR test of your patience. The bolt has to go through two brackets with about 1/16" of clearance to get both the locking washer and locking hexnut on. My advice, DO NOT put the 4 assembly anchor screws in first - get the 8-32 bolt with locking washer and hexnut in place first - THEN proceed to put the 4 assembly anchoring screws in.

Once this was re-assembled, my diverter was still being a bit twitchy. So, I took 3-in-1 oil and compressed the spring above the coil assembly (under the PF). I put one drop in that area and rapidly compressed and de-compressed the spring. Still no progress. So then, I took the 3-in-1 oil and let 2-3 drops run down the diverter arm, and then I manually pushed the diverter up and down, and you could definitely see a difference.

Then, I went into solenoid tests and activated the diverter, and it clearly was functioning properly. Then, I exited the test mode and played a game - no more secret passages when giving the left ramp a solid shot. Finally, the diverter arm acted as it should for bats/castle lock ONLY - what a great feeling to see that!

So, now the last thing I have to do is fix the "mini" multiball that occurs whenever Castle Locks are engaged. Basically, the shooter lane loads a ball and fires it onto the PF, and then the Castle Lock ball is released and shot into the PF as well. First, I plan on checking my optos to make sure all 3 are activating properly. Then, I'll check my switch assembly (man, what a PITA that area is) and de-grease/de-grime and/or replace my switches as necessary.

So close.... almost to a 100% fully working BSD !!!

My desk at the end of tonight. You can't even see everything on the floor around my machines - what a mess....

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#1813 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Oiling your machine is generally a no-no because it attracts dirty and will gum things up much faster.
Sounds like you're really bringing that thing back from the dead though!

Yep, I definitely knew I was "going against the grain" on that one. This diverter was so gummed up, it would stick down and stay down. It couldn't even try to come back up. It was VERY rough. I was hesitant even telling anyone I used oil, but it was a very small amount, and it was NOT WD-40. That junk will give you hell fast. 3-in-1 oil is much more viscous, and I wiped off as much of the excess as I possibly could.

This BSD was definitely....well....it deserves some much overdue loving, and I am more than happy to do it !

Got to get a good picture of the LEDs all on soon.

#1814 5 years ago

Well, that didn't take long ....

Multiple pictures of the LEDs. First picture is just GI. Rest are assorted insert PF pics.

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#1816 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Are you planning to give it a full cleaning soon then? That should be all it needs. I know some of these mechs are not easy to get to...

Hard to say. I have EASILY been working on this machine more than my other 3 combined. I worked on it for 7 hours at the seller's home before I even brought it back to my place. It's been an uphill battle, but it is starting to pan out now .

To do a full tear-down (top portion of PF) would be very involved, and I don't mind doing it. I just want to play the game a couple weeks at a minimum before going all out with a shop job/cleaning. It's been a very rewarding experience to work on this game, but I need some "fun time" before doing a thorough cleaning.

Got the Polk external subwoofer coming in tomorrow. Have some small knick-knack stuff to buy for the machines, and have the cliffys coming for it as well. I also am getting some great touch-up pens to start bringing the reds back into the cabinet.

We'll get to the detination - for now - the journey is the fun part .

#1819 5 years ago

Just got done with multiple orders for BSD. Got new set of opts on the way along with 3+ of every coil sleeve in this game as well as 15+ flashers to install. Also, ordered the touch-up pens. They are called MOLOTOW and were highly recommended to me by a fellow Pinsider. We'll see how it turns out!

Man, I just don't even look at the total amounts anymore x_x ....

More updates to come later this week! I am reading all posts directed at me, sorry if I don't personally respond to each one - nothing personal D: .....!

#1822 5 years ago

So, my wifey went ahead tonight and started applying reds to the side art on the cabinet. It looks pretty darn good! Way better than those pale whites I was looking at. We still have a ways to go before it's all re-applied, but we'll get there; it definitely is looking great so far!


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#1826 5 years ago

Well, got the new Dracula and cliffy ball trough installed tonight. The new Dracula looks 1000x better than Ron Jeremy.





These PCB 555 bulb sockets are SUPER tight....getting an LED in there was quite a challenge on the middle socket. Here is a reference picture for what I did to make it work. If you do this, remember as you grip down on the channel locks with force: less is more. Go slow and be patient. You do NOT want to break the bulb socket out of place on this one.












#1829 5 years ago


She used this marker right here


Paint code is "013" Traffic Red. You have to put on multiple coats. At first, it will almost look pink. The more coats applied, the more blood red it begins to look.

#1831 5 years ago

No, that is Molo's main website. You can buy it at :


Make sure you get some that are extra fine so you don't "overlap paint" with the red on the black night of the cabinet art.

Main selection is here:


#1839 5 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Game play question? When i get both coffin and castle multiball both going and shoot a ball up the left ramp, it enters the Castle look ramp and remains locked, then if i drain out of multi-ball, the game still keeps the Blue Jackpot light lit at the scoop and will release the ball in the castle lock to the shooter and autoplunge it into play, it being the only ball in play. Is this normal behavior.

Even though it's been answered, if you want to see your question of the gameplay in action, watch from 22:00 to about 22:50. Does exactly what it sounds like you asked:

#1845 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

And then watch the whole thing so you can feel like the worst pinball player to ever touch a machine.

You aren't kidding ._. .... I have watched that video so many times. I love that vid. Watching Bowen play that game by itself made me want to buy a BSD.

Haven't had a 40 min game though ._. ....

#1846 5 years ago

Purchased and installed this new cabinet speaker today:

Part #: 6MB200-4 at Parts Express:


Practically a plug and play install:


Installed in BSD:


#1847 5 years ago

And I still got plenty of goodies to install.....


#1848 5 years ago

Like this glareguard for instance .


Picture 001.jpg

Better :

Picture 004.jpg

#1850 5 years ago

Thanks my man. We're getting there. The 3 in 1 oil lost its effect on the diverter; it is back to being annoying and sticking. I have to pull it and clean it hopefully this weekend. Then, I will try to determine what is causing a mini 2 ball multiball everytime a castle lock occurs (shooter lane ball and then the castle lock ball is unlocked and shot onto the PF).

Almost there...!

#1851 5 years ago

So, I picked out the speakers I will be picking up tomorrow at Parts Express for BSD. For those interested:

5.25": http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080

3.5": http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770

I'm not talented enough yet to cut out the smaller hole and enlarge it to 5.25" for matching pairs - yet ....

The wifey went ahead and started applying reds to the coin door and the left side of the machine. I caught her off guard and managed this one picture before I was chased down D: ...

Picture 126.jpg

#1852 5 years ago

I did make a tiny bit of progress on the "mini multiball" issue.

The mini multiball is whenever a castle lock ball occurs, the game will put a ball into the shooter lane. Once the ball is shot, the games then unlocks the "castle lock ball" and auto fires it into the game, starting a mini multiball. Once a ball drains, it does NOT prematurely end the game.

So here's what I noticed: if I have coffin multiball (dont know about mist multiball yet) active and I lock a castle lock ball, it quickly unlocks the castle lock ball and auto plunges it. It does NOT lock the castle lock ball and spit a ball from the trough into the shooter lane and autofire it; it just sends the castle lock ball through and auto fires it onto the PF.

So basically, whenever coffin multiball is active, no "mini multiball" issue.

Small progress, but it is what it is. I open the floor to everyone as to their thoughts on this.

#1855 5 years ago

Hey AO,

Yes, we had narrowed it down to those two options - neither of which I have gotten to yet. I know when I get to taking ramps and castle plastics off, I'll be adding Cliffys on the PF at the Alter scoop and Mystery hole as well and one thing will lead to another to another to another...

After this last weekend, I do know switch #3 or #4 is sticking as I took the apron off while the game was being finicky, and a ball was just resting on one of the switch triggers halfway; it was NOT rolling over and triggering the switch properly.

Basically, I know when I get to the optos, I'll have the machine decently taken apart and it may stay down for a good solid couple days, so I'm just adding additional info as I get closer to doing that "minor" shop job =/...

Needless to say, this BSD needed lots of love. Wait'll I get a good picture of the cabinet separation near the coin door; you guys will love that!

#1858 5 years ago

You guys are dead on correct.

My father once taught me just that: modify one thing at a time. That way if anything weird happens, you can go right back to the one and only thing you messed with.

So, the trough switches on this game = weird setup. The switches partially overlap each other; and therefore, the mounting screws overlap a tiny bit too and are a bit tough to access. It's doable, but it sure looks like a "test of patience".

Any tricks/tips as to how you guys got to each switch mounting screw...or did you just take your time?

#1859 5 years ago

Got my first triple multiball on my BSD just now!!!!!!!!! 1.17 billion - man, what a rush that was. Mist --> Coffin --> Castle in that order. Was able to collect one castle jackpot and finished coffin multiball. I think coffin was about 86 million; I don't remember. I was too busy having a great time playing the game!!!

The diverter is starting to behave as it should, so I'm going to continue playing the game and see if it "worked itself out". If not, well, there's always the weekend.

Going to continue to clean up the pinball room as I started a major cleaning overhaul lastnight that hopefully I can put most the finishing touches on tonight. Also, installed new Pyle speakers in BSD and HS2. Wifey has the camera, so I'll post pictures later.

Thirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrty million!!!!!

#1861 5 years ago

So, I installed way better speakers tonight in BSD.

Here are the speakers I installed - each in BSD and HS2.

I'm not brave enough to cut the hole for two 5.25" speakers - no way.

5.25" : http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080
3.5" : http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770

The 5.25" are a direct plug and play. For the 3.5s, you'll have to drill 2 very small holes, and then use a hexnut screw to hold them in place - 1 on each side ..each 180 apart.

Quick pictures. Sorry that the pictures are from HS2; I didn't take any pictures of BSD. I was flying to get both done so I could play that fateful 3x multiball game .


After that, ordered more parts from Marco. While getting part orders ready, Lil' Miss had enough of being ignored and let me know about it.


#1873 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

FYI, don't let the fade bug you, scroll up and you'll see how it can be done with a paint pen. Or open up the checkbook a bit more, there's a full set on eBay right now starting at $125.

Just to keep it clear: those decals were not on eBay when I experimented with the pens. I can guarantee you I would MUCH rather install new decals. The reds have come out pretty well overall; I am pleased with how they look.

I never have installed decals. It is my understanding it's no "walk in the park". Anyone confirm/deny with some experience on this?

#1875 5 years ago

Woo hoo - 30 millions again!!!!! Never gets old.

Nicoga - in response to your question about what to look for:

Run the magnet test under "Tests" --> hit the volume down button one time to get straight to the magnet test. Make sure that works 100% - let it do one full loop of all actions. The initial action will be for it to let go of the ball in the right mist gate trough area. If it does everything and loops back to that initial action without a single problem = great.

Play the game, make sure every single coil works. Make sure the diverter works on the left ramp for bats (3 loops) and castle lock (7 loops). You should physically see and maybe hear the diverter go down, and the round green light in the back should be lit, signaling the diverter is active.

Make sure the castle locks do just that - LOCK the ball. After a castle lock, if you plunge the shooter lane ball, and then the castle lock ball gets unlocked for an inadvertent "mini multiball", there's either an opto or trough switch being weird (what I am dealing with right now).

I'll think of more in a bit. Re-read this thread; it will give you a LOT of insight as to what to look for.

#1880 5 years ago

So, I finally got back to slowly working on BSD today. Diverter seems to be working great. Changed out a couple coil sleeves just to be safe as God only knows how old they were. Adjusted my left gate a tiny bit as it was prematurely closing on the mist ball going from R to L and inadvertently awarding me with Mist Multiball even though I didn't earn it. Installed some small new hardware - just a couple bolts here and there.

Picture 128.jpg
Home sweet home.

Picture 129.jpg
My left gate was shutting on the mist ball, so I reflowed the solder on the coil lugs. So far, so good.

Picture 130.jpg
Quick reference picture as to the position of the disappearing post for caste locks. I changed its coil sleeve as well as the ball launcher and outlane clearing coil sleeves.

Picture 131.jpg

Couple new bolts installed as well as a new coil sleeve. Note the outlane clearing coil above that is just out of the camera's eye. Notice how the wires lead to the top - where a metal apron is going to be installed... yeah, going to get a nice lil' "buzz" everytime I try to install that metal apron...

Moral of the story - keep an eye out for the lil' details. Thankfully, that didn't short circuit anything but me - could have been a lot worse....

Started investigating my "mini multiball" problem. I found something. Watch the video for the answer to what I think the problem has been....

#1882 5 years ago

Thanks, AO. I sure am looking forward to rearranging the optos in the correct order. I was like "Whhhhhaaaaaaattt????" when I first saw the order was wrong, but at the same time relieved. If that is all it is, that was way easier than I expected.

Now, I just need to see if I work from underneath the PF, or do I have to do this from above. I am betting it has to be done from above, meaning the left ramp has to come out. If so, no biggie, I have the "shop procedure" pdf someone wrote a while back. It'll be my first time removing the left ramp, so I'll go slow and take my time, but I have the confidence to do it - for now...... .

#1884 5 years ago

Can anyone provide me a good photo of the left gate assembly near the left side of the long opto? Lately, my left gate is not opening tall enough for the mist ball to get in the left pocket if missed by the ball in play. I want to determine what needs to be tweaked. I reflowed the solder to the coil; those connections are good. The opto board is a brand spankin new one from Homepin, so I know that's good. I am getting resistance at the coil on my DMM, so I know that's good. Brand new spring linking the metal plate to the ball gate assembly too.

I am darn sure it's mechanical at this point. Since the left gate is NLA, I would rather tweak the spring before starting to bend the gate all around to take out the slack in the spring.

I've noticed that when the right gate activates, the coil makes a very solid "pop", but when the left gate is activated, the coil is almost silent - is that the way it is supposed to be? Maybe it's an indicator that the left coil is not pulling strongly enough?

If anyone has a reference picture(s) of a perfectly working assembly, that'd be great - thanks!

#1894 5 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Question number 2,
Where can I get the coffin ramp thingy?
50% of the time the ball won't go up...

You might want to clarify this a bit. "Thingy" is a bit ambiguous as that could mean - well - anything.

I am going to assume you meant this:


Once you install the clear plastic shield above the entrance of the coffin ramp, the ball will travel up the ramp every 99 of 100 tries. Every now and then it won't simply if there's not enough momentum for the ball to make it up and all the way around.

#1898 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Jumping back to these - I never realized how wrong the original instruction cards were! That's where Aurium (?) is getting his text from, which makes sense, until you realize they're wrong. FWIW, JP also has incorrect instructions on the original cards.

I know, right ? The cards look so great though I didn't mind. It's honestly kind of cool the error "carried over" to the new cards to me.

Let's be honest - pretty much only pinball players or masochists play BSD, so the rule cards serve no purpose to me except decoration. I never look at them; I just think he did a fantastic job with his own personal touch, and... well, yeah I like them

Axl, yeah dude, get the clear plastic for your coffin ramp. That is practically mandatory. Game looks great! Where did you get it from (what state) ? Congrats and welcome to the club...er.....Carpathians .

#1904 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Post a pic of your problem. Your coffin ramp is clear, and when it's up (the lock light is on), the flap can get in a way a bit to see the lit insert. That's not unique to yours, but if all the cross lights are lit, then you know the coffin is open anyway.
Edit: I'm guessing you won't be able to find a new lift ramp easily.

Basically what he means, AO, is the ball has gone up that ramp SO many times that the transparency of the ramp is gone and it is more of a "translucent blur". Like on mine, I can see the green light, but good luck ever reading the words on the insert....

I know you can get polishing kits - similar but NOT identical to headlight kits - to make this problem possibly go away, but, meh, I never really notice it on mine. Like you said, the cross is fully lit, you audibly hear the ramp go up, and you know what to do at that point!

Replacements would be nice, but I'd be willing to bet this is verrrrrrrrrrrrryyy low on the list of Rick's list of parts to bring back to the market.

#1905 5 years ago

Howdy guys, so I am finally getting to addressing the castle lock optos. I started by using the BSD Shop Guide that is somewhere here on Pinside, and then I realized after getting on the middle of page 2 that all I had to do was remove the bolts on the right slingshot plastic that are responsible for holding the end of the long ramp in place. Reference pictures below:


The bolts that go in here are pretty much all you have to remove. From there, you can use a stubby philips head screwdriver and remove the two bolts holding the hard castle plastic in place. Once that's removed, you can clearly see the castle lock optos:


I am pretty sure, per PinballLife's page, that the transmitters are the white components.

So right now my locks engage in the order 2 --> 1 --> 3, so I am going to switch the first two transmitters and see what happens. I'll keep everyone in the loop - should hopefully be done with this *gulp* soon!!

#1908 5 years ago

Got it!!! It was the main opto board underneath the PF. Replaced it with a HomePin unit, and all has been well - woohoo!!!

I'll post some pictures of the new board later this week. Man, am I glad that is fixed!

#1925 5 years ago

Well, I played about 6-7 games tonight, and finally I got to thoroughly enjoy BSD with only one hiccup - the left gate for mist multiball doesn't go up enough for the ball to enter the left holding cell if you miss it passing across the PF.

I have a brand new spring, and that didn't help anything. It seems as if the spring needs to be shorter as it is not lifting the left gate highly enough. We'll get to that soon enough...

It was nice to finally play and have all the multiballs behaving as they should. Took a good 1.5 months to get to this point with only getting to work on it a day here and there each week, but we're nearly home free!

Such an adrenaline rush of a game.

#1927 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Make sure the bracket is installed on top of the plastic.

Did that, only made it worse D: ...

Quoted from aobrien5:

Make sure the gate has not become magnetized. It should NOT stick to a magnet.

I'll check that next!

Quoted from aobrien5:

If the wire gate is not original, bend the arm forward a hair rather than deforming the spring.

The gate is original, hence, why I'd mess with the spring first as we know the left gate is No Longer Available (NLA). I have a backup spring/spare in case I boo boo it up.

The gate DID used to work, but man, that ball just barrrrrrrrrrrrrreeellly made it in there.

#1937 5 years ago

^^^ Yes, wait for the plastic cover to come in . That's a lot of work for one washer, but hey, you are dedicated!

#1944 5 years ago
Quoted from AJNada:

I need some help with my BSD. When it starts 'Bats Mode', the Castle Lock will let out 2 balls instead of 1. It's not in a multiball mode, just Bats. When I let one of the balls drain, the game doesn't recognize it until the 2nd ball is drained as well.
Also, the Rats outhole fires out randomly every time. Sometimes on top of the right slingshot, sometimes to the right flipper, or even SDTM.
Where to start? Any help would be appreciated! I love this game and look forward to working on it.

Go into switch test mode. Have all 3 balls in hand, and roll them down the castle lock habit trail one at a time, taking note as to the order of the castle locks engaged. It should be 1 --> 2 --> 3. Let us know if the order is correct.

#1954 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

So I figured out the intermittent ball plunge sound. I took the apron off and watched what was going on in the ball trough/shooter lane. So it turns out the solenoid that launches the ball is sticking after the ball launches which continues to hold the shooter lane switch down. The machine doesn't know the ball has launched and so the sound clip never triggers. Do you know what would cause it to stay out and not retract?

As AO already said, replace the coil sleeve and clean everything around the coil/solenoid very thoroughly. Whatever the coil sleeve is, get another 5-6 of them. Getting lots of coil sleeves in one batch makes shipping less painful. Most of the time, a machine has 5-6 of the same kind of coil sleeve.

#1962 5 years ago

Woo whee. I can't imagine the patience it took to get that opto out of there if you left the habit trail in place!

#1979 5 years ago
Quoted from movingpictures:

Found the reset plate and spring, but the part # for the microswitch yields no results.
Can I use any standard microswitch ?

You silly goose.....


#1985 5 years ago

So, here's a fun idea.

Recently, I acquired a GoPro Hero 3+ Black edition. Needless to say, this lil guy has quite the video capturing power. Some of the videos I've recorded are simply staggering.

I'm thinking about doing some diagnosis videos for BSD and other games I own. Basically, as I fix a problem, I would do a video of the problem I had, the things I did to diagnose the problem, the solution, and location/fix of said solution.

Would anyone be interested in this? I am not going to be doing on a time interval basis; it will be "as it happens" kind of videos. I would also be doing this to demonstrate the GoPro's capabilities as it is EASILY the best hands free camcorder I have ever dealt with - period. Plus, with two hands free, it would be much easier to show and explain a problem, testing, diagnosis, prognosis, and eventual solution.

I did some recording of a game or two of BSD tonight in the dark with the GP on a head-strap unit, and if it wasn't such a shaky mess - because let's be honest, few of us remain 100% still when playing pinball - I'd upload it for everyone's enjoyment/chagrin/easy mocking of me. Next time, I am going to record with the lights on as I am sure it will be far easier to see the action of the game. I am considering getting a tall enough tripod for the GP, or maybe I'll mount it from the ceiling for a bird's eye view - how to do that I am still working on. If anyone has any ideas, please by all means, share! If I can find a way to mount the GP on the ceiling, I'd gladly do it and record a couple games for anyone's enjoyment/chance to criticize my playing/etc.

I've wanted to do something like this in the community for a little while now. Originally, the GP was bought for other things like car videos, but I got to thinking about its use in pinball, and I figured why not. Didn't cost too much for the accessories I needed - mainly the head mount unit.

I'm uploading a preview video of the GP at 1080p @ 24 FPS. It is going to take a while, so I'll post it in the morning. It will give an idea of the video quality that I would like to become the standard when I record future videos.

#1988 5 years ago

Thanks for your responses, guys !

Here is the sample video at 1080p, 24 fps. This sucker by itself was 307 megs o_O ...

#1989 5 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

hi new pin , put in the search box - the pinball camera rig club. joe

Thank you! To PinballHelp's credit, I am going to do this setup:


#1995 5 years ago
Quoted from aveamike:

Hey guys
I'm looking to LED my BSD.
Anyone willing to share some pics.
I'm looking for some inspiration.
I like to do my lighting set up custom and not use a kit.

I suggest you search this thread.

#1999 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Topic search at the top of the page allows you to search within the thread so we don't make it 80 pages by reposting all the info again.

Holy crap ...... do you know how many times I've perused this thread looking for something....going through like 36 pages D: ???? I had no idea you could search within a thread

2 weeks later
#2033 5 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Hi all,
Between balls there is a score popping up. right now it is 168.000.000, other times it is
199.000.000. What does that mean? is it the replay score?

Based on your description, I would say yes.

#2040 5 years ago

So, here is video documentation of the left gate problem I was having. Two videos - first is an explanation of the problem. Second is the fix applied and demonstration of the mist ball behaving.


Video 1 - Problem:

Video 2 - Fix and Demonstration:

Recorded with a GoPro Hero 3+ Black edition.

#2042 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Love the GoPro video, its a really interesting way to show a problem/repair. Thanks for sharing!

You're absolutely welcome . I am going to try to this for all my fixes and repairs from now on. I feel it's very helpful for anyone interested.

You can only read so much, understand what is being talked about, and follow along with interest. It's a whole different thing to visually see what's happening. Definitely glad to contribute to the community in this way .

#2044 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Agreed, very cool! Thank you!

No, thank YOU for your thread on your BSD. Wow, you're doing some amazing stuff! I may have to ask you some questions on what you're doing - very cool stuff!!!

#2045 5 years ago

So, I decided to go ahead and install the mystery hole cliffy for BSD. And wow, to get to that one area of the game, well, might as well just do a minor shop job while you're in there!

This is the first pin I have ever gone this far with. I have heard BSD is quite a bear to do. So far, lots of photos, couple videos, and some swear words and MacGyverisms - but we are on our way! Some photos of our progress.


#2052 5 years ago

All right, got the Mystery Hole Cliffy installed!!!! Here are the photos from tonight. I have a video - nothing really exciting - just me talking about the process and just an "over-arching view" of my first minor shop job.

Unfortunately, my GoPro was facing too high, and all the other videos are basically worthless. Totally sucks - did a good 8+ videos as I went, and everything I did was out of view....

Next time guys.... better videos.


All done!!


20141011_225403.jpg 20141012_003303.jpg
#2053 5 years ago

All right, got the Mystery Hole Cliffy installed!!!! Here are the photos from tonight. I have a video - nothing really exciting - just me talking about the process and just an "over-arching view" of my first minor shop job.

Unfortunately, my GoPro was facing too high, and all the other videos are basically worthless. Totally sucks - did a good 8+ videos as I went, and everything I did was out of view....

Next time guys.... better videos.


All done!


#2058 5 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

The cliffy on the scoop should be flush with the playfield. When installing cliffy's you often have to bend them slightly to create the proper tension so they lay flat when tightened down. It's kind of trial and error but otherwise you'll affect the ball path and scratch up the pinball (which isn't directly a problem, but then it scratches other things like your playfield).

Could I use some kind of an emblem adhesive to make the Cliffy sit flush? If not, I can do some more trial and error tomorrow.

#2064 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

NewPin, you may need to file out one of the screw holes on the rat cliffy. I suspect it looks fine, but when you press the post in, it pops up. I had the same problem.

Thanks AO! I'll check it tomorrow while my wifey is at work ! I haven't played it since getting the game back together, so fret not my friends, BSD is safe .

#2065 5 years ago

There we go - all better - cliffy sits 100% flush with the PF now.

Just as terryb said: the cliffy needed to be bent to fit right.

4 small videos on it in a progressive state. I really need to learn to start merging videos D: ...

1. IDing the Problem

2. Fixed and Explanation

3. Quick Observation

4. Final thoughts and one last look with game fully assembled

#2067 5 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Thanks for posting the videos. Very good explanation.

Thanks terryb, and thank you for suggesting to bend it a tiny bit to make it fit. That was exactly what I had to do!

1 week later
#2086 4 years ago

Mist multi enables the 10 mil call out. You will not hear "10 million" unless you enable Mist first. See Bowen's 40 min video for proof starting at the 13:12 and the 16:12 mark:

As far as your never-ending multiball issues, 2 things to focus on:

The castle and coffin multiball are controlled by the same opto board. There could be something wonky going on with your opto board, or it could be something as simple as a sticking trough switch. I would take your apron off and play with the apron removed so you can see what's going on with the trough switches. There just may be a sticking one in the trough.

Let us know!

#2089 4 years ago

You're welcome . Glad I could help. BSD is quite a unique beast, and yeah, if you're getting that error, that means that switch more than likely needs to be adjusted. If I recall correctly, you can tweak the metal arms that cause the switch to "click" when it is engaged.

Typically, when you "occasionally" get a switch error, that means that switch is not being tripped for x > 30 games or so. So what's happening for you is most of the time the switch is not tripping and then randomly the ball rolling over it gives just enough force to engage the switch and the switch error goes away.

Take your PF glass off, bring your table up and out, and identify which switch is 41. I am pretty sure it is the 4th switch or the first one the ball rolls over once exiting the PF. Trip it with your finger and see if you hear it "click" - basically your hand is acting as the ball. If you do not hear a very obvious "click", try adjusting the metal arm. Test your other switches so you know what to expect from the "suspect" one. Always do this kind of stuff with the game off and unplugged from the wall. You never know what can happen with the game on or plugged it - trust me on this one.

If you clearly hear the suspected switch "click", fire the game up, go into switch test mode, and re-do your tests on the suspect switch. If the suspect switch activates in switch test mode, start a game and enable the coffin or castle multiball, then play the multiball out and see if when all but one ball drain that the mode stops. If it does, you're good my man!

Let us know what you find !

#2111 4 years ago

Was playing a game lastnight, and at the end of a game when I went to start a new game, my ball launcher stopped working, and I noted the right ramp was in the "up" position. Went to solenoid test menu, and realized I had lost solenoids #1-#8.

Quick look in the manual, hey look, F105 controls those. Pulled the fuse and put in a new one. All is now well.


#2113 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

Nice! Good job. Always a good day when it's an easy fix. Question is, WHY did it blow hmmmmmm. Hahahha

I truly think - so far - this was one of those "old fuses eventually go" situations. This BSD, when I bought it in July" needed a lot of love. I wouldn't be surprised if these are the original fuses ...

#2115 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead87:

Fuses dont just generally blow...... Most of my titles have the original fuses never replaced and still rolling. Something had to have grounded out.

You're right. It just did it again.

Time to do some medical work....

#2117 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

You're right. It just did it again.
Time to do some medical work....

So to let everyone know the fix to this problem, here is this thread:


Turned out to be the auto plunger was shorting to the mounting hardware, which was causing my slide rails to give me a nice lil' zap as well as blowing fuse F105.

Good call, Pinhead87 - it was a short!

#2118 4 years ago

Nothing major here - just a new plunger coil.

Also, found why my castle switch was not tripping once the diverter led the ball to the optos; the pigtail connector wasn't pushed in all the way.



#2120 4 years ago

^^^^ Cool! I had no idea about that!

1 week later
#2130 4 years ago
Quoted from trudert9:

This seems to be the issue. My switch 53, which should be castle opto 1 is registering as castle opto 3. Switch 57, which should be castle opto 3 is registering as castle opto 1. Castle opto 2 (switch 54) is as it should be. What do I need to do to fix? Sorry, I'm still new to maintenance and tech issues.

You have an opto board problem. Get HomePins board and never look back.


I had the same kind of problem. My optos were registering 2 --> 1 --> 3 instead of 1 --> 2 --> 3. Bought HP's board, and poof, the problem was gone.

If you do get the HP board, I would just get both boards, considering the shipping and waiting time from Australia can be a lil much.

This board is for all optos except the mist-multiball optos:


This board is for the mist-multiball optos:


You possibly could de-solder the optos and put them in the correct order, but something has scrambled the order to begin with. I see the possibility of chasing your tail.

1 week later
#2156 4 years ago
Quoted from Shado1w:

I just redecaled my bsd thanks to Black Rose here on pinside. What do you guys think?

image.jpg 188 KB

Do you mind sharing how you did this? I have a long ways to go (getting an entirely new cabinet)before I apply my new decals, but I'd like to know so when it is time,I can go into the project confidently.

Is there a thread with instructions you have referenced in the past on how to do this?


Looks awesome !!

1 month later
#2180 4 years ago

^^^^ Most of the time, it's when castle locks have been enabled

3 weeks later
#2222 4 years ago

I am tentatively selling my old one and picking up a different one this weekend. Making the drive up to Michigan to check it out. Big thing is the cabinet is in solid shape with no water damage, and with new decals in my closet, I think I could make this one shine.

There are a couple things I see to address already - new launch ball button to install, one bolt missing for the outlane/plastic on the left (right next to the left flipper), obviously I'll be applying new decals for the entire cabinet, and I have Bryan Kelly's new plastics ready to go, and a yellow target for the middle if necessary. SP pf (mine is LS), fully LED'd PF and translite, undercabinet lighting, powder coated hardware, and 100% mechanically and electrically working with all new PF optos. New DMD board as well, superbands on the flippers, and clear leg guards on the cabinet.

We'll see soon. I plan on going this Saturday to scope it out and possibly bring it home. If I do, I will be applying new cabinet art once my wife and I have our own home, and I have the space to do such a project. I also plan on sending my village, castle, and graveyard plastics out for painting if McClad or modfather ever PM me back .

I plan on keeping this BSD until I die - like - I'll be buried in this damn thing .

I don't know why this picture is so jacked up...


#2248 4 years ago

I have officially retired from this club at this time. Traded my BSD for a JM - not even looking back now. I'll let the new owner reveal himself if he would like!

I'll get another one someday . I will definitely be back.

#2257 4 years ago
Quoted from timtim:

I got the dracula and its only going to leave if i get a nicer one. This ones a player and so am I, but NPO did put alot of love into it, so it looks great. I do have some ideas though
Been playing it and dialing it in the last few days. The move in my house is 4 flights of stairs with turns after each flight so some things had to be adjusted after that
Been a long time fan of the game since i was a kid and its probably my favorite game.(TZ & MB are close) It's just pinball nirvana. Simple and addictive, that's why i call it Crackula now. Good score or bad score I still want just one more
And NPO i just missed your grand champ the other night THIRTYYYYYYYY MILLLLION!

Very kind words for you to say . Thank you. Your JM was in solid shape as well, and I have nothing but great things to say about you and your integrity as well. Great trade, and very glad I did it!

I am eyeballing another BSD right now. Might have to store it in the closet, but hey, I can do that until I buy a home !

1 week later
#2320 4 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

If you have the $$ Pinball Pro does a nice setup

If you have the patience and the know-how, THIS is cheaper and definitely worth your time...


2 months later
#2561 4 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Talked about in this thread a dozen times probably. Trough switches, optos, or opto board.

Now now...you play nice. Just because YOU know the possibilities, doesn't mean everyone here does .

3 weeks later
#2643 4 years ago

Guess who is back in the club starting this Saturday.......! Saying goodbye to my B/W Corvette for this one!


#2645 4 years ago

It took some thorough discussion, some cash on the side, and me bringing Corvette to the new owner, but we were finally able to work something out.

I genuinely think the BSD and Corvette are in nearly identical shape at this point. Really great fellow Pinsider; we clicked right away and just "got it" when discussing pinball.

It comes home tomorrow !!! I'll have more details when I get online after "the drive" !

#2647 4 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

looks like a keeper NPO, are you going to hang onto this one?


BSD will now be only the second pin I have bought 2x - JM being the other one.

This particular BSD looks to be in very solid shape. Will I hang out it forever? Maybe - I genuinely don't know at this point. I made a deal with the current owner that if I ever do decide to let it go, he has first dibs on it and that he could buy it back.

Our deal was very much a gentlemen's discussion, and I feel 100% confident about it. The way he described this BSD, there really is nothing for me to do except play it. No ColorDMD here yet, so, I guess I'll do the normal upgrading of the speakers and call it a day. Wow, weird to say o_o ....

#2653 4 years ago

Guess who is home and now a member of the club once again ?

Man, this example is SO nice. Weirpinball will be coming over to help me get this up the stairs later today (Sunday). Once it is setup, I will take a good number of pictures for everyone to see. This is a SUPER nice example!


#2657 4 years ago
Quoted from doublestack:

My 2nd BSD has gone to NPO, he will be missed. Yes there will be a third in my future. Seriously congrats Jeremiah, awesome time meeting you and playing some games.

Thanks, man. It was a pleasure to meet you too, Ryan. Seriously, I had a fantastic time, and I know Corvette went to a loving family and a great pinhead who will take great care of it.

As for BSD, here's a couple pictures !


#2662 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

<bluote cite="#2499473">Thanks, man. It was a pleasure to meet you too, Ryan. Seriously, I had a fantastic time, and I know Corvette went to a loving family and a great pinhead who will take great care of it.
As for BSD, here's a couple pictures !
20150607_124446.jpg 20150607_143403.jpg 20150607_143412.jpg 20150607_162725.jpg 20150607_162731.jpg 20150607_162737.jpg 20150607_162744.jpg 20150607_162821.jpg 20150607_143424.jpg 20150607_143450.jpg 20150607_162758.jpg 20150607_162810.jpg 20150607_162737.jpg 20150607_151058.jpg
One thing I noticed is that the one decorative plastic on your lower pop bumper actually goes on the top left pop.

And it's staying right there . Helps make my BSD "different" (read: technically inaccurate).

Got new speakers on the way to upgrade the 22 year old ones. Ron Jeremy already replaced with the "old man Dracula" mod and the external sub has been hooked up. Coffin lock always sounds so awesome with a sub!!

#2679 4 years ago
Quoted from timtim:

Here's some pics of the Mist Hole Lights
as always the pics don't do justice
It looks great when you drain, the machine goes dark except a few lights like mystery stay on


That is really cool, Tim!!! I love it!

As for me, got the speakers upgraded and put the proto plastics in near the slingshots!

"Old man" Drac is in the coffin as well. I have some ideas for incorporating the bat version of Dracula into this game. That one may be a lil' while to implement...


#2683 4 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Are the speakers you got fairly plug & play? I've been considering upgrading mine, would appreciate any details you have.

They are plug and play. The only modification is for the 3.5" speaker. Instead of reusing the thread holes and the bolts both used to mount the factory speaker, you have to make new holes to mount the new 3.5" speaker. This is because the new 3.5" speaker is about 1" bigger in diameter then the stock speaker, so you cannot reuse the stock mounting holes.What I do is use the 2 hex screws that were originally used to mount the electrolytic capacitor near the factory speaker. I take a 1/32" drill bit to start a pilot hole for each hex head screw, and those 2 screws will hold the new speaker in just fine. For the pilot holes, do NOT drill far at all. All you need are two very small starter holes, like what you would get if you used an awl for drilling a hole in metal.

#2685 4 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Thanks. It will be interesting to hear if any difference in sound... cheap enough to give it a try.

You can take the part numbers right off the pictures I posted and go to Parts Express Online. They should all be in stock. Normally, I get Pyle 3.5" and 5.25" speakers so they match, but unfortunately the 5.25" Pyle are out until the last week of June. No way I was waiting that long :p.

#2687 4 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Any recommendations for an external sub?

Yep, this bad boy right here:


You can hook up 2 pins to it at once, so the sub can be shared between two games. Personally, I have under each of my games, and on BSD, holy crap is it awesome.

#2689 4 years ago

Got these bad boys in today. I am working on making a plate for the bat figure to stand on, and then mounting it at the end of the habittrail where the ball leaves the coffin and returns to the pop bumpers. If there is a way I can incorporate a spotlight to shine on him when Bats Mode is enabled, that'll be the shiznat.


#2690 4 years ago

I have had a couple people ask me about speaker replacements in BSD. I wrote up an email earlier today, and I figured I'd share it with everyone here. This post will have all the details needed to pretty much pick out and install new speakers in your BSD or any equivalent WPC game!

The speaker upgrade is always a good investment, and the sounds produced from new speakers is simply awesome. I will say this: we are simply swapping out speakers from a quarter century ago and installing new ones along with introducing an external sub. Just wanted to warn you: don't expect to spend $175-$200 of speakers and expect a $3000 sounding system in a high end luxury car.

With that disclaimer out of the way, you will want to buy the following components:

1 pair of 3.5" Pyle speakers: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770

1 pair of 5.25" Pyle/Lanzer speakers (the Pyles are out of stock until late June; the Lanzers are a plug and play speaker just as the Pyles):

5.25" Pyles: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080

5.25" Lanzers: http://www.parts-express.com/lanzar-mx53-5-1-4-140-watt-3-way-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-7160

For the cabinet speaker, you'll want to get a Pyramid Pro 6.5" mid-range woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-w64-6-1-2-pro-plus-midbass-woofer--290-025

There's even a user review for the Pyramid Pro saying he used it as a direct-fit replacement for his WPC pinball machine. That made me smile - whoever that was!

The external sub I use is an external Polk PSW10: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Polk+Audio+PSW10

The 6.5" cabinet speaker has two tabs for both the "+" and "-" leads (one set will be used for the wiring coming from the game's harness). I simply stripped the ends of the wire coming from the sub and alligator clipped those raw leads onto the remaining pair of leads.

All the speakers are plug and play except the 3.5" ones. For that, you'll need to do the following:

The only modification is for the 3.5" speaker. Instead of reusing the thread holes and the bolts both used to mount the factory speaker, you have to make new holes to mount the new 3.5" speaker. This is because the new 3.5" speaker is about 1" bigger in diameter then the stock speaker, so you cannot reuse the stock mounting holes.What I do is use the 2 hex screws that were originally used to mount the electrolytic capacitor near the factory speaker. I take a 1/32" drill bit to start a pilot hole for each hex head screw, and those 2 screws will hold the new speaker in just fine. For the pilot holes, do NOT drill far at all. All you need are two very small starter holes, like what you would get if you used an awl for drilling a hole in metal.

And that's that guys! Any questions, let me know!

#2692 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

<blocke="#2508613">I have had a couple people ask me about speaker replacements in BSD. I wrote up an email earlier today, and I figured I'd share it with everyone here. This post will have all the details needed to pretty much pick out and install new speakers in your BSD or any equivalent WPC game!
The speaker upgrade is always a good investment, and the sounds produced from new speakers is simply awesome. I will say this: we are simply swapping out speakers from a quarter century ago and installing new ones along with introducing an external sub. Just wanted to warn you: don't expect to spend $175-$200 of speakers and expect a $3000 sounding system in a high end luxury car.
With that disclaimer out of the way, you will want to buy the following components:
1 pair of 3.5" Pyle speakers: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
1 pair of 5.25" Pyle/Lanzer speakers (the Pyles are out of stock until late June; the Lanzers are a plug and play speaker just as the Pyles):
5.25" Pyles: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080
5.25" Lanzers: http://www.parts-express.com/lanzar-mx53-5-1-4-140-watt-3-way-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-7160
For the cabinet speaker, you'll want to get a Pyramid Pro 6.5" mid-range woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-w64-6-1-2-pro-plus-midbass-woofer--290-025
There's even a user review for the Pyramid Pro saying he used it as a direct-fit replacement for his WPC pinball machine. That made me smile - whoever that was!
The external sub I use is an external Polk PSW10: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Polk+Audio+PSW10
The 6.5" cabinet speaker has two tabs for both the "+" and "-" leads (one set will be used for the wiring coming from the game's harness). I simply stripped the ends of the wire coming from the sub and alligator clipped those raw leads onto the remaining pair of leads.
All the speakers are plug and play except the 3.5" ones. For that, you'll need to do the following:
The only modification is for the 3.5" speaker. Instead of reusing the thread holes and the bolts both used to mount the factory speaker, you have to make new holes to mount the new 3.5" speaker. This is because the new 3.5" speaker is about 1" bigger in diameter then the stock speaker, so you cannot reuse the stock mounting holes.What I do is use the 2 hex screws that were originally used to mount the electrolytic capacitor near the factory speaker. I take a 1/32" drill bit to start a pilot hole for each hex head screw, and those 2 screws will hold the new speaker in just fine. For the pilot holes, do NOT drill far at all. All you need are two very small starter holes, like what you would get if you used an awl for drilling a hole in metal.
And that's that guys! Any questions, let me know!
So no capacitor is used anymore?

Nope. I always take it out now. If I understand it correctly, that capacitor is there to reduce any "white noise" or fuzzy noise. The new speakers negate the need for the capacitor.

#2694 4 years ago

So here was a new one for me. I got done playing a game, and I noticed a credit dot appeared on my DMD.

Went into switch test mode, error that popped up was the following: "Check Switch F8 - U.L. Flipper But."

Now this error came completely out of nowhere; I had no precursor that this was going to happen. First things first: I did some homework on it, and it appears that this is an error that occurs whenever an opto goes out. All right, fair enough, here are the steps I took:

1. Took off the female connectors to each flipper opto board, applied de-oxit to all female ends and 120 grit sandpaper to all the male pins. Put everything back together.

Checked - error still present.

2. Went to the Fliptronics II board and did the same as step #1 to all female and male pins. Put everything back together.

Checked - error still present.

3. Swapped opto flipper boards to see if the error would come up reading differently.

Checked - error still present.

4. Checked all the under PF optos as well as the ones in the right orbital, left ramp, and mist ball in "Switch Test Mode." All of them checked out fine.

Checked - error still present.

5. Swapped Fliptonic II boards with the one in my JM.

Checked - error still present.

At this point, I just said "heck with it, let me play a game and see what happens" at which point I played with the glass off and got a funny idea. I enabled Mist Multiball and let the Mist ball travel across the entire PF. Once I did this, I noted that the credit dot had disappeared.

Also, my JM has been playing 100% fine so far - all 4 flipper buttons work 100% as of this writing.

Moral of the story: the credit dot MAY NOT disappear after a quick reboot; you may have to actually play a game and engage the once-faulty switch to clear the credit dot. Unfortunately, I do not know EXACTLY which step corrected the credit dot - just figured this information may help someone down the road.


#2705 4 years ago
Quoted from oohlou:

I just joined this club today! The pin I picked up is a mixed bag. The playfield looks really great and all the ramps and plastics looks to be in very good condition (with the exception of the center plastic over the targets. That seems to be a junk reproduction). the cabinent is solid but faded. Eletronics looks good.
I have a few beginner questions:
1. What are the rules to start mist multiball? Once the mist multiball insert is lit if you shoot that hole should mist mulitball start immediately? That doesn't happen for me. The hole consistently awards mystery awards so the switches in there are working. Also the mist multiball insert is never lit fully. It blinks. I've seen mist multiball a few times in my handful of games but I'm not sure what is starting it. Sometimes I have shot the hole multiple times when the insert is lit and never get mist multiball.
2. What is the right ramp supposed to award? It is giving me mystery award which seems wrong.
3. When the right ramp flap is down the movable ramp is maybe 1/8" lower than the rest of the ramp. This leads to rejects on the ramp more often that it should. Any tips on how to raise the flap or lower the rest of the ramp such that the two pieces are level?
4. In the 3 hours the game has been at my house I've had 2 weird sound issues.
a. The music stopped working. The sound effects continued. I reset the pin and the problem persisted and then a minute or two later the sound came back.
b. At least once the sound for multiball was much louder than the regular sound. It was like 5/10 before multiball, 8/10 during and went back to 5/10 as soon as multiball was over.
Thoughts on what is causing these sound problems? I am going to re-seat connectors...

1. Once the mist insert is lit (blinking after 5 left ramp shots), you shoot the ball into the Mystery Hole. That should initiate the mistball, which you have to hit with your free pinball off of the magnetic track. Once you do that, mist multiball begins.

2. The right ramp awards a lit insert on the cross directly in front of the right ramp. Once all 5 are lit, the ramp lifts up and you shoot there to initiate coffin ball locks. The left ramp will bring the ball back to the right inlane which WILL reward you with a Mystery award once you hit the hole.

3. You are referring to this setup:


The problem is you are probably missing the clear plastic which should be mounted where the ramp flap and the hard ramp meet. You can find them here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-dracula-clear-plastic-reproductions-available

Check with Jason, the OP of that thread. His Etsy store is here with the BSD plastics you may need: https://www.etsy.com/listing/173278432/bram-stokers-dracula-pinball-clear

4a. This happens from time to time. Remember, BSD has code like.... v1.0. To the best of my knowledge, there were NO new polished version of the initial code released. Sometimes, weird things are going to happen like that. To the best of my knowledge, this does happen from time to time. It is super rare, but it does happen.

4b. BSD is known for amplifying its sounds, particularly when multiballs are stacked. As you stack more multiballs, the music, sounds, and callouts will start to boom. This is totally normal.

BSD is a unique beast. With the mist ball and buggy code, it can throw someone for a loop who is not familiar with all of its.....special traits. We all go through it - next year - you'll be helping someone else out just like this . Welcome to the club!

#2719 4 years ago
Quoted from oohlou:

How do I adjust this the shooter lane? It looks like the blood plastic is a bit askew with the inside (toward playfield) being a bit higher than the outside but I think that is the way it is supposed to be.
I seem to be having problems now with my coils being too clean / strong. The feeder coil for the shooter lane hits the ball too hard and the ball bounces back into the trough 25-33% of the time. The other problem is the village VUK (after the mystery hole) hits the ball so hard that the ball bounces when it gets to the playfield. I've check both coils and they are the right ones according to the manual. Any simple way to dampen their power and adjust them so that these problems don't happen?

Adjust the coil that hits the ball out of the shooter lane by removing the apron and re-adjust the coil assembly to where it hits the dead center of the ball. These kinds of adjustments take time and patience. Keep the apron off and adjust it until you get it just right.

For the village VUK,I used to have that problem with my 1st BSD. Best advice is either adjust the coil where it hits the ball, or adjust the wireform that takes the ball back to the left inlane.

BSD is a very finicky game. It's why people love and hate it to death. Easily one of the "exotic stigma" games.

1 week later
#2731 4 years ago

All right, gang. I have been waiting to post this one for a little while now. Check this out.

So, fellow Pinsider, modfather, reached out to me and offered to paint the village and castle for $50. Actually, it would have been all 3: village, castle, and graveyard, but unfortunately I was cracked for time and could only get the village and castle out. Sent them off to him last Monday, got them back in today. Holy cow. Dude, just look at the before pictures:


Now, look at the after pictures o_o...


And with them in the machine:


This was WELL worth $50. He did an absolutely outstanding job. The paint is covered in a clearcoat, so it is safe if you have oily hands like me.

Sucks having your machine with plastics missing, but at least my game was still fully functional with the plastics gone, so hey, if you're willing to wait a good 1.5-2 weeks, his price is VERY fair. He does a lot more than just this too. That's why they call him the Modfather .

10/10 - couldn't be any happier unless I could have gotten my graveyard sent to him as well.... ._.

1 week later
#2766 4 years ago

So, I was playing a game lastnight, and I think my right gate is randomly opening and letting the mist ball out. It was late with the lights off, so I wasn't REALLY paying attention, but I saw the mist ball roll onto the PF as if the right gate had opened up and let it drop right out. The game recognized it and reloaded it while I kept the game ball in play.

Anyone have any ideas on this one? Maybe it was a freak accident....?

#2768 4 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Check the spring on the right gate. Also check if the gate is bent outwards, which most of them are, the ball can fall into a position where the opto isn't blocked and the game loses the mist ball.

Thanks, Terry. I am assuming if the gate is bent outwards, the ball can roll forward enough to trick the game into thinking the ball is not in the gated area, and it instinctively thinks the ball is not there and opens the gate to "restock" the mist ball?

Before I saw your suggestion, I took the Fliptronics II board out, cleaned all female pins associated with the right gate (J907 and J903), re-flowed the solder on all the pins, put deoxit on each pin, put di-electric grease on each pin, and torqued all the mounted bolts down good (ensuring good grounds). I also re-slowed the solder joints for the 2 wires to the solenoid responsible for the opening and closing of the gate. No effect.

I also noticed that in the magnet test as the ball rolls from the left gate to the right gate, the right gate sporadically opens up and down in a VERY weak manner....BUT during the game the gate works perfectly.

I am sure the two problems are connected to the same fault.....

I'll check the gate bar's orientation and spring next. Should the gate be REALLY strong, weak or "mid-strength" ?

#2773 4 years ago

So, an update to my problems from yesterday:

I took Terry's advice and bent my gate very strongly inwards. I did this by using two tiny pairs of pliers and grabbed the gate on opposite sides so the pliers grabbed both the horizontal and vertical bars in the same grip. I then bent firmly but gently inwards, and you could tell the gate had bent inwards a little bit. I played the game for pretty much 30 solid minutes without incident (the gate stayed shut).

I still am having the weird problem with the right gate not staying up when the ball is to enter the right gate coming from left to right. I am going to do some digging here at Pinside, and if I can't find it, I'll start a new thread.

Thanks, Terry!

1 week later
#2783 4 years ago
Quoted from mizzou:

So I picked up a BSD a few months ago. Been running into a problem with the right ramp. I would say about 50% of the time when you shoot the ball up the ramp, it will fly off it, smack something then come back down. I know that whoever had it before me had a bunch of incorrect screw sizes and missing ones as well. Does anyone have a map of what screws and nuts go where? I'm guessing this is at least part of the problem..

Bet you're missing this clear plastic...without it, the ball will not go up the right ramp as it should.


1 month later
#2913 4 years ago
Quoted from jkdblaze:

Is he painting these again? I messaged him a couple of times over a year ago and then never heard back.

PM modfather here on Pinside. He does outstanding work: did my village and castle for next to nothing.

Here's my post showing the before and after of his work:


Quoted from Glarrownage:

Man, I hope you guys get your mods. I was just about to order too. Keep us posted. Has anyone else purchased or heard from Iamdarras lately? I hope everything is okay.

If he has dropped off the radar, fellow pinsider Pinball_Customs has something in the works you all might want to take a look at....


A LOT of people are ordering this without even seeing it installed in a machine. Looks to be the coffin mod we've all been waiting for.

#2918 4 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Lately my BSD has been working great, but every now and then when the ball goes in the Mystery hole and travels down the subway, that switch doesn't register. It's always a simple fix with just a little bending, but I want to replace the switch itself to hopefully eliminate it from happening again. Does anyone happen to know which switch I'd need to order?
With Halloween coming up I want to have it tip top when the house is full. Thanks!

If it is the switch right at the base of the Mystery Hole, it is this:


I recommend downloading one of these too :


#2919 4 years ago


So, as I reported here before, I had a weird issue with my mist right gate. The gate was "pulsing" when the ball was released, which was no biggie right to left, but from left to right the gate would not stay up, and the ball was denied entry, awarding me a mist multiball I didn't rightfully earn. I have spent almost 2 hours tweaking, swapping parts, applying light lubrication, swapping springs, but I FINALLY got it.

So, what it turned out being: there was TOO much slack in the lever arm mechanism.

I started by changing the coil sleeve, no change.

Then I applied Super Web Grease (used for the mist motor track as well as JMs glove track) to the assembly arm that gets pulled down by the coil. No change.

I then took the assembly that connects the right gate to the coil arm apart. It had one washer and a cotter pin holding it together. As I started figuring out how the assembly works, I thought "Maybe there's too much slack," and I disconnected the gate from the arm mechanism, at which the cotter pin went flying somewhere in the game, and I said "aw hell." So out to my garage I went and found an extra brake caliper cotter pin, and modified it to work.

Came back in, and I played musical chairs with the cotter pin and a random assortment of washers like you cannot believe. I tried every single combo I could think of, and it would either be too much slack and the gate would fall, or too tight and the gate stayed up constantly releasing the mist ball at all the wrong times. As I worked, I ended up finding the factory cotter pin, and thank goodness because the final configuration ended up using it (surprise surprise). Oh, the manual is WRONG about using a 10-128 spring. That is way too strong for the gate. The CORRECT spring (in my case) is a 10-135, which the previous owner actually had installed. In the process, I swapped the 10-135 the PO installed for a "manual correct" 10-128, and then in the end I ended up switching back to a brand new 10-135.

Holy crap, I thought stacking triple multiballs was hard. No, THIS was hard. I wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy. I am sorry, but I do not know the thicknesses of the washer I ended up using, but here is my right gate's setup for posterity's sake:


I'll do a GoPro video about this and upload it later tonight. Right now, I am taking a very well deserved break and getting me some Penn Station.


1 week later