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(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,513 posts
  • 622 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by mbt
  • Topic is favorited by 243 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (7 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (7 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (7 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mrsanramon.
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#221 7 years ago

Last weekend I have taken my BSD out of the garage and put it in the house.

It's been in the garage for about 1.5 years and needs a good cleaning/rehab. The last major shop-out was probably 7 years ago.

Planning to clean and polish and install some LED's and get it back into play.

Robert

#222 7 years ago
Quoted from pinij93:

Finally starting to get some good scores on my Dracula.

Put the glass back on...

Robert

#234 7 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

For some reason I suck at the bat ramp shot - find the coffin ramp way easier to hit.

I have the same issue...way easier for me to get coffin multiball than castle mb.

Robert

2 months later
#286 7 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

I still have a "magnet unload error" but no game play is effected that i notice yet.

I had this problem and it was corrected by either performing a Factory Reset, or removing the batteries with it turned off...can't remember which now.

It wipes out all high scores and all of your non-factory settings, but it did get rid of the "magnet unload error" that I had for 3 years and couldn't figure out why.

Good luck, and post your results if you try it.

Robert

5 months later
#464 7 years ago

I have the following parts for sale, let me know if anyone is interested.

Robert

#03-8864-2
DRACULA (Williams) Molded Graveyard

#03-8864-3
DRACULA (Williams) Village model

IMG_0829.JPG IMG_0830.JPG

2 weeks later
#474 7 years ago

pics

IMG_0859.JPG

#475 7 years ago

site is really slow, need to do this 1 by 1 I think...

Robert

IMG_0860.JPG IMG_0861.JPG

#477 7 years ago

actually more

IMG_0862.JPG IMG_0866.JPG IMG_0867.JPG

#478 7 years ago

2 more...

Robert

IMG_0868.JPG IMG_0869.JPG

1 month later
#639 7 years ago

If you don't have one of these already, they are very handy in checking out whether the emitter is working or not...or you can use some digital cameras.

This is an example, there are other cards available and probably at a cheaper price. Not sure where I got mine. Just wanted to let people know they exist.

http://i-fiberoptics.com/tool-detail.php?id=560

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/DISTRIBUTED-BY-MCM-72-6772-/72-6772

Robert

#642 7 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

The problem is that when I drain the first ball- it ends the game.(there is still one ball in play) Is this normal?

No...

Robert

#643 7 years ago

I used to get the "magnet upload" error on my BSD. Couldn't figure it out, because the game worked perfectly.

Then one day I took out the batteries to change them, and then forgot and turned off and unplugged the game to move it.

When I put in new batteries, plugged it in and restarted the game, it went into a factory reset.

Never had that error message again after that.

To those that get that error and the machine seems to be working OK, maybe a factory reset will help; of course you lose all of your scores and settings.

Robert

#664 7 years ago

It's Nevada...

3 weeks later
#698 6 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

It's a fairly tough machine to shop...

I just went thru mine a cleaned it up a little and replaced some bulbs, now the ball gets hung up occasionally in the coffin ramp.

I guess I screwed something up when I reassembled it...but I really don't want to take it apart again. The coffin area is complicated.

Robert

#700 6 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

All you have to do is take the back of the coffin off

OK, I'll give that try...just not looking forward to taking the coffin off, as every time I do I think I'll break something in the process.

Thanks.

Robert

#702 6 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

All you need to do is take the very top screw off of the headstone plastic.

OK...thought I might have to take the whole coffin apart again, which I think I probably should, because I had a plastic left over the last time I took it off.

Robert

#704 6 years ago

Go into switch edge test and see if any of those switches work...check if LED's are triggering the optos.

Look for 12v on the opto board, a led should be lighted ( under the playfield ) from fuses 114 & 115 I think.

Check your power driver board, check TP1 to ground (left top corner of board). That should be 12 volts, but if it is 10 volts or less, it can make your optos seem bad. If 12 volts is low at TP1, you'll need to change BR5 (bridge rectifier).

Good Luck.

Robert

#705 6 years ago

If the switch matrix shorted out at sometime, then the opto board (A-15430) may need repair, or replacement if you are so inclined.

New boards are $70 to $75, so you should try to troubleshoot and repair before you "just" buy new.

From Wikipedia:

The resistor discoloration is cosmetic, and rarely causes problems. The biggest problem for these boards is switch matrix shorts. If any of the power lines hits the switch matrix, it can easily destroy the LM339 and possibly its output diode. This issue will manifest as a ground short on one or more rows. It can be tested by removing the switch matrix connector. If the problem goes away, the associated LM339 and possibly its diode need to be replaced.

Robert

#716 6 years ago
Quoted from callmesteam:

Thanks for the advice on this one.

Do you have a owners manual?

If not PM me your email address.

Robert

#721 6 years ago

I seem to be unable to post a file...

Robert

#725 6 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Does anybody have that how to shop a BSD pdf from page 1? Would you please repost it or send it to me?

File sent via email.

Robert

#727 6 years ago
Quoted from goodgameslover:

So now i'm considering adding leds for the inserts. But i noticed cointaker offering the standard leds or the super brites. Does anyone have those? Can someone maybe add pics, so i can make a better judgement?

For me, BSD is a "dark" game in theme, so I prefer a lower light level and bright inserts seem wrong to me.

There are several people that have LED'd their BSD, and pics & videos exist on Pinside.

BlackRose did a video on his if I remember correctly, and that would be a good place to start, so do a search.

Robert

#734 6 years ago
Quoted from nthack:

Everything now works fine except when during T15 magnet tests, I get repeated Opto Check faults with a "Lamp Interference" note.

It may be an issue with the long range opto. It may not be centered properly on the ball.

You may want to add a couple washers to tilt the opto so it aligns better with the opposite opto.

If you have LED's installed, it could be the LEDs interfering with the Mist pocket opto. On the right pocket you'll need to keep an incandescent there next to the opto. Just change that one and you should be fine.

A question, does the game work properly, or does the game drop the ball in mid stroke?

If it drops the ball, then the problem may be with a broken wire in the cable that goes to a magnet power board mounted on the bottom left underside of the playfield. This cable can also get pulled off and that will disable the magnet.

Robert

#737 6 years ago
Quoted from nthack:

No, the magnet is working fine and holding the ball going both ways.

So it's a magnet test issue, not a game play issue?

If so, I'd just forget about it and play the game.

I had a "magnet upload" error for about 4 years, and the game played fine. I did a factory reset (and nothing else) and the error went away.

Not saying that will occur here, but if the game works I wouldn't worry about it. There are a lot of issues with the mist magnet.

Robert

#739 6 years ago
Quoted from nthack:

It does affect the game significantly. There is confusion throughout with the machine getting in a pickle and not knowing where the balls are. Sometimes two balls in the right pocket. Sometimes repeatedly upping the ramp and shooting balls in to the pocket, then the gate opening and dropping the ball out. Sometimes no ball in either gate when the mist starts.

Well, that info is more useful than "I get a T15 error".

This is probably not a long range opto symptom, but I'm guessing. Long range opto issues causes the ball to drop mid travel for no apparent reason.

Sometimes two balls in the right pocket:
optos in the right ball pocket are not working well, either dirty, misaligned, a broken wire somewhere, not a matched opto set, bad opto board, loose connector somewhere, opto soldered in backwards,etc.

Sometimes no ball in either gate when the mist starts:
again, the opto's in either ball pocket seem to not be working well. See assessment above.

1. Clean the all optos with a q-tip and some non-ammonia window cleaner, do it 2 or 3 times (wet q-tip, dry q-tip... repeat...).

2. Did you replace any of your opto's or just one side of the opto chain?

You should get opto's that are supposed to work together, the emitter and the receiver. Not sure which one is the issue, but some combo's of Emitters & Receivers (by different manufacturers) don't work together well.

3. Replace (or exchange with a known good set...but that's a lot of work and can cause more damage, better to just replace with new) optos in the right ball pocket to see if that helps, those are the ones that control ball replacement.

Robert

#745 6 years ago
Quoted from ChoppaCade:

It wasn't sitting high enough up in front of the opto. I gently bent the piece of metal under it so it would sit higher and "Hey Presto" it worked again.

Great tip. I was thinking that it may be a dirty opto, giving an erratic reading...hence it worked sometimes and other times not.

Robert

#748 6 years ago
Quoted from ChoppaCade:

I gently bent the piece of metal under it so it would sit higher and "Hey Presto" it worked again.

By high enough you mean a direction away from the lockdown bar, correct?

Robert

#750 6 years ago
Quoted from ChoppaCade:

That is right Robert, bent up away from the lockdown bar. I just gently used a screwdriver as a lever to correct the position

Chris:

Thanks for this tip, with all of the Mist issues, including opto's, this would be a good first place to look before replacing opto boards or opto's themselves.

Robert

1 month later
#798 6 years ago

Well, I'm leaning towards getting a STID Premium and need to make room, so I've started to clean the machine & touch up the cabinet on my BSD.

I've had it for a long time, probably 7 or 8 years and it's difficult to let it go, but I think now is the time; all I need to see is a few pics and perhaps play a few games on the premium to decide.

So I need someone post some pics of a ST Premium and invite me over to play it, and I'm guessing the BSD will be soon out the door.

Thanks.

Robert

#808 6 years ago
Quoted from Kcpinballfan:

Shopping this pin is pretty difficult. It's deceptive on not looking like there is a lot going on but it is definitely one of the tougher pins I've shopped.

I agree, it looks easier than it is.

Robert

1 week later
#819 6 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

Also i am missing a Part on the Playfield

Is it the up-kicker that you need?

Robert

#820 6 years ago

A-16261...Castle Ball Popper Assembly; if it's the up-kicker.

Robert

a-16261.jpg

Up Kicker.jpg

1 week later
#856 6 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

You're lucky, you've just got a broken right gate, which is available. The left gate is not available.

Most gates are not that difficult to make out of flat stock and wire.

Robert

#866 6 years ago

I believe that the mist gate wires may be copper, copper alloy or phosphor bronze, not steel. I think it has to do with magnetization.

I'm not at my machine, but do remember that the gate wires were distinctly a copper color.

I could be wrong, but that's what I remember...perhaps Lloyd can chime in or Netsepp can PM him and ask.

Robert

#873 6 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Stainless would be a great option.

Ferritic & Martensitic grades are magnetic while Austenitic stainless steels are non-magnetic (or slightly magnetic).

304 is a common austenetic stainless steel that would be a good choice as well as copper (a little soft) or phosphor bronze (hard).

Robert

#876 6 years ago

I cleaned up my BSD over the weekend and replaced the plastic that goes under the coffin and over the left pop bumper.

I forgot to put it on when I changed out some bulbs and after 2 games I got a ball stuck under the coffin. Probably could have left it there forever, but it bothered me so got it out. The coffin is annoying to have to take apart.

Wish they would have put a connector on the light array, so you could remove it from the topside of the playfield. I always feel like I'm going to break the circuit board when I try to stick it thru the coffin plastic.

I also found a ball stuck in the upper left corner...not sure how it got there, but I think it was when I raised the playfield without taking out the 3 balls from the shooter lane.

Still on the fence about selling it; sometimes I think yes...then I play it again and don't want to part with it.

Robert

#886 6 years ago
Quoted from ModCity:

So, just out of curiosity, has anyone seen a machine with green outer targets on the center or left target bank?

Mine are yellow, either it's a typo or they were changed after the proto's and the manual didn't...I guessing typo though.

Robert

#900 6 years ago

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-for-bsd-decal-art

Contact drano and see how he did the decals.

Robert

#923 6 years ago

Planning to work on my cabinet repaint this weekend, going to redo one side.

I'll post some pics next week (if I'm not too embarrassed)!

Robert

#956 6 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Is that target supposed to be yellow? mine is black.

Mine's black.

Robert

1 week later
#989 6 years ago
Quoted from gtown:

Anyone have an extra village plastic/model to sell?

I have one...

Robert

#999 6 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I smacked the mist ball right into the hole

No smacking!

Robert

#1006 6 years ago

Great job on making one.

Robert

#1014 6 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Once every 40 games or so, if a ball hits the center or left target on the stand-up bank straight up the middle, the game will start randomly (and quickly) handing out rewards (such as a coffin ramp hit, a rat hole hit, video lane hit... sometimes the dungeon (upper left scoop) hit...).

Since it's so sporadic, I would suggest that it's not just these targets that cause the issue...these targets are probably hit more so it would seem that the issue is only with them.

Take a look at the switch matrix to get an idea of what might be the issue.

There are a lot of places where there may be a wire touching something else...playfield, harness backbox...maybe even a bad connector on the backbox.

Since you have pounded on the playfield with no results, that itself is a clue.

Robert

#1036 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I'm willing to buy the set outright but if you're not willing to sell, I'd pay you to borrow them for a bit.

I have a set, not sure if it's complete, since I haven't seen it for about 2 years. Not planning on selling it, but could loan it or scan the pieces for someone.

Robert

#1039 6 years ago
Quoted from Kawasakiltd:

From this to this in a afternoon. It was really dirty. But is cleaning up very nice.

When I got my BSD, it was really dirty. When I took it apart I also had to replace some stuff and fix other stuff, so I had parts spread out in the family room for about a month.

I'll never do that again.

Even though I had piles in different areas of the family room, trying to keep some order to the eventual reassembly, I still put things together and had to take them apart, because I did it incorrectly.

The game has been remarkably reliable over time.

Robert

#1059 6 years ago

Pic of plastic that goes over the center (#4) & upper ramp (#2) transition:

dracula_29.jpg

BSD Ramp Locations.JPG

Robert

#1061 6 years ago

If you really want to make it stock, change out the center red targets on the left and right side with yellow ones, or change out the plastic faces.

Robert

#1062 6 years ago

A shop out guide I picked up a few years ago, that might help others.

Robert

Edit: Unable to post a *.pdf, so if anybody wants it, PM me with an email address.

#1066 6 years ago

Yes, someone must have uploaded it.

Robert

#1067 6 years ago

Yes, someone must have uploaded it.

http://files.spilledilla.com/Diverse/RepairGuides/shop_BSD.pdf

That file is a helpful documentation of a BSD shop job.

Robert

#1069 6 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

. Only game I ever dropped.

Hope the rest goes better.

Robert

1 month later
#1196 6 years ago
Quoted from shock_me:

Take lots of pictures and measure all the posts. There are a lot of different lengths that are very close. Fairly straightforward shop job.

Yea, that's the most difficult piece of the job.

I suggest keeping the parts of different areas separate and mark the pieces and make notes.

Robert

1 month later
#1348 6 years ago

Game is sold...

I decided to sell my BSD...it's a great pin that I enjoy, but I don't have the room to store it and just don't want it sitting in the garage anymore.

It has a combo of LED's & bulbs and a topper. I also have a few spare parts that I need to part with too.

I have a left ramp and the village model part and probably a few other things that I need to go find in the garage.

It is faded on one side and has a good playfield and no credit dot.

Not sure what to sell it for, opinions are welcome. It's available for viewing today in San Ramon.

Don't have any room, so no trades at this time.

Robert

#1349 6 years ago

Some pics...

image-309.jpg

image-38.jpg

image-609.jpg

#1350 6 years ago

Some parts...

image-486.jpg

#1351 6 years ago

More stuff...

image-71.jpg

#1355 6 years ago

Kerry Richard has everything I owned for the BSD in the back of his SUV...you may want to contact him for any of the stuff.

Robert

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