(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


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  • 11,164 posts
  • 789 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 45 hours ago by poppapin
  • Topic is favorited by 325 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

35 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (11 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (11 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (11 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (10 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#270 11 years ago

I regretted leaving the club in 2012 when I sold to help pay for TRON.

After this weekend, I am now a card carrying member again.

As my girlfriend so eloquently put it:

"GOOD. Now don't fuck up and sell it this time"

bsd_gc.JPGbsd_gc.JPG

6 months later
#578 10 years ago

When it rains it pours!
Joining TFTC in my graveyard of down games is BSD.

One of the optos on the left ramp or at the castle lock is firing on its own.
In switch test, everything appears fine.

But when you start a game, after a few seconds you magically have bats, then castle locks etc.
Has anyone had this issue? Any help is much appreciated!

11 months later
#1961 9 years ago

Trying to get my BSD back in form, any help is appreciated.
I am having a couple issues related to the castle optos.
Ramp shots or secret passages are randomly triggering when the ramp is not hit.
This leads to extra points or bats starting on its own.
Also, the castle release post only works when 2 balls are in the castle lock.
If only one is there, the post drops and pops back up too quickly to allow the ball to release.
Are these issues related?

After some digging, it looks like the castle opto 2 was replaced at some point without a shielded piece.
In switch test, everything works as it should.
The castle optos have been working fine for about a year and have just recently started acting up.
I have attached some photos so you can see what I'm talking about:

image-3.jpegimage-3.jpeg
image-2.jpegimage-2.jpeg
image.jpegimage.jpeg

#1964 9 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Sounds like opto 1 is starting to flake out. Put it in switch test mode and start wiggling both the emitter and receiver around to see if you can get the switch to trigger. Chances are the leg of the diode has broken and is making intermittent contact due to vibration. You can also use your cell phone camera to see the light coming out of the emitter and if that goes on/off then you know it's bad.

Just tried this and I cannot get the opto to trigger without properly blocking its path.
No amount of wiggling of the optos or the habitrail itself would cause a mis fire.

Any other suggestions?

#1965 9 years ago

Eureka!

Further prodding has just revealed:

Touching the solder points on the back the black part of castle opto 3 on the blue board causes a mis fire.
Is this the transmitter or receiver?

Plan of action is to reflow solder on the two points connecting the opto to the blue board.
Correct or no?

#1971 9 years ago

Reflowed solder on the opto board and problem solved!
Even the disappearing castle lock post is functioning properly now.

One more issue to resolve to get this thing playing 100%:

The drop target.
Have a look at this - what a strange piece in the reset plate assembly !

photo-4.JPGphoto-4.JPG

The issue I am having is the drop not falling with enough force to trigger the microswitch.
I have used a leaf switch adjuster to fiddle with the switch arm and haven't been able to get it to click.
I also notice the switch plate has some play and I can move it around.

Should I replace the microswitch or maybe it is the rusted spring not having enough tension?
I tried removing the spring so the drop stays up, but then you can't access video mode.

#1974 9 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

is the target rubbing against the slot in the playfield? if not remove the assembly and clean all parts,replace spring and reset plate. g.l.joe

The switch arm seems to be floaty and besides not triggering, it also can get stuck on the drop target screw.

Quoted from aobrien5:

A penny?! Yeah, I think that whole assembly is due for a rebuild when you see things like that. Get a new spring while you're at it.

Where do you see a penny? That looks like a regular old fashioned house key.
Actually not all that much different than the pic in the manual (#8) ... hehehe

photo-4 copy.JPGphoto-4 copy.JPG

I will try to find the proper reset plate assembly, swap the spring, and probably a new microswitch as well.
That should work ... I hope.

#1976 9 years ago

Found the reset plate and spring, but the part # for the microswitch yields no results.
Can I use any standard microswitch ?

Thx

#1980 9 years ago

Thanks

#1982 9 years ago

Thanks fishrace.
Picking up a new reset plate and spring soon.
Then I'll get to fiddling with your advice.
Cheers

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