I'm very excited to finally join this club! BSD in the house ready for playtesting then a bit of Treasure Cove love.
Does anyone have a list with number of each bulb type needed for a full LED conversion?
OK, I will ask. Just in case someone here has it handy from a recent shop, I'm not looking for a color breakdown, just the total number of 555's, etc.
My BSD didn't look terribly dirty, but I started cleaning it up last weekend. I don't really want to put a cliffy on the rats hole. Has anyone used a bit of mylar for this area? Not sure if that would just end up looking bad, or not enough protection.
I could also use a set of sling plastics if anyone has a spare set to sell. Used, not broken would be fine too.
Would someone please post or send me a link to pictures? I'm looking for shopout coffin pics. I'm reassembling now, and wondering about wiring on the Dracula lightboard, which 2x2 molex connector that should be going to on the bottom? During teardown I noticed my Dracula seemed a bit melted in the chest. One of these lights burns extremely hot, the middle is dim and the bottom isn't working.
I am guessing the previous person to shop this just swapped out the GI molex connectors with the coffin VUK.
Got my game back together and had an issue with the right opto not working for mist. Apparently the two GI bulbs next to the opto need to remain incandescent, because it worked right after switching them out.
Other issue I have (no more time now, will have to troubleshoot later) is castle lock sometimes releases the ball when it should be held. Then 2 balls end up in the shooter lane. Maybe a problem with the top wireform switch needing adjustment?
I definitely enjoy tearing a game down to understand how everything works. BSD was probably my hardest shop to date... still fun though. I ended up cleaning those optos and readjusted the wireform, and think I have that issue ironed out. Got a few more flex LEDs on the way for tweaking.
I stripped my coin door and gave all the plastic pieces a good soak in simple green. It makes me cringe every time my little ones stick their fingers in the return slots, so I also lined the bottom of those with mylar.
Tried my hand at painting the models this weekend.... I figured no matter what they couldn't look worse than stock. I was inspired by mclad's paint job he posted last year. Nowhere near as nice as his, but I'm pretty happy with the result considering I've never painted anything like this before.
Thanks man. That brings up another point... I ended up pulling my LED strip out of the graveyard because it looked really crappy after the paint job, not letting enough light through. I put a spotlight at the base of the graveyard instead.
I used some flat Testors paint, I think this set was for painting military models. The castle was already mostly black, so it is fairly easy to dry brush the gray on. Let that dry then brush on some white for highlights.
For the graveyard I had to paint the stones black first, then gray, then white. The nice thing is if something gets messed up just add more layers. There are a lot of good textures in the castle that are hard to see in the stock model. Dry brushing a little bit of paint on there really brings out those details.
I've had some luck reducing hum by making sure all screws into the boards are tight.
Have any of you upgraded the speakers on BSD? I'd really like to enhance the sound but I'm not sure what the best method is. I see Flipper Fidelity has 2 options, and one is much cheaper than the other. Will simply replacing the speakers do the trick, or is there something special about the full kit?
Also wondering if there is a clear speaker panel produced yet... I'd love to put a color DMD into this one.
Thanks. It will be interesting to hear if any difference in sound... cheap enough to give it a try.
I've been experimenting with color a bit, trying to figure out what I like before I replace the rest of my plastics. Yea or Nay on the yellow star posts? I was thinking about replacing red underneath the village and castle plastics as well, leaving the rest red. What other alternate colors has anyone tried & liked?
Might not be too difficult to find a decent used display with so many people upgrading their games with colorDMD.
For standard rubber rings orange and green are pretty bouncey. Yellow seems a little less, and I like how black plays the most.
I finished installing the new plastic set this past weekend. One adjustment that is working well- adding a washer under the feet of the coffin ramp, just on the side that is closest to that curvy plastic.
I made a few color changes while torn down. Yellow posts near the flippers, purple in the middle section and red up top. I got tired of seeing everything red. I also put a heavy black cardboard in the coffin to block out the green light bleeding through from the lightboard. Now it's nice and dark in there except for when the flashers are going off.
Great job on the plastics set!
Another thing I found out with BSD (after so many LEDs were poking me straight in the eye)... I like the look of warm LEDs. I bought some of Marco's white bulb condoms and put them over Sunlight bulbs. There are a good match for warm LEDs now but much softer on the eyes.
Sounds like a mod... I don't have any rats.
Speaking of mods, has anyone created a sticker yet for this ugly white area on the backside of the ramp?
Quoted from nerdygrrl:
So Drac is being all emo again. After months of not being turned on I had some free time, I fired it up and every time a ball get kicked into the shooter lane and fired, a new one is reloaded into the lane. I'm guessing it's a trough switch issue, but I just wanted to make sure before I go down that route.
I also notice the shooter plunger overshoots and gets stuck. Any idea on what would cause that?
It does sound like a ball trough switch issue. Are they all working during switch test?
My plunger armiture used to stick as well, but in troubleshooting skill shot issues a while back I ended up replacing the coil, sleeve and armiture for the ball shooter. All easy to replace and inexpensive. I haven't noticed the plunger sticking again. Also I realize now the main culprit for that old skill shot issue was a bad connection on the drop target microswitch. Oh well...
As long as you're checking optos- had an issue with mine where the opto would not work when LEDs were in the 2 right side lamp sockets closest to the mist opto. Mine works fine only with incandescent in that spot. Easy enough to pull the 2 from the bottom for a quick check.
Sounds like it might be the capacitor though?
Quoted from bigd1979:
Usually Capatitor on the 24 opto board . I just help ed another guy on here fix another.
Can you clarify which capacitor typically goes bad? I'd like to keep some on hand for the future. Thanks.
Quoted from Hougie:
Is there a source for the lighter colored plastics? I bought a pair of sling plastics from Little Shop of games but they're much darker than my original plastics.
I also found out the hard way- these are cheap bootleg garbage. Total waste of money. I ended up buying a BK plastic set and am very happy with it. I didn't *need* a complete set, but everything looks great now. Marco still has one in stock, may be available from other vendors.
Yes, I've been wondering the same thing about color DMD. Was toying with the idea of an upgrade. I'm sure some tweaking would be needed to keep the flashers, maybe an led strip or something?
Quoted from dmbjunky:
I saw one animation that showed a hand reaching for a cockroach but I didn't know where that came from.
I haven't seen the animation, but was this during multiball? When the asylum is triggered during multiball I've heard Renfield say "would you like an hors d'oeuvre?"
I agree- there is something about this one! Keeps me coming back for more, and just because I killed it last night doesn't mean anything today... Dracula comes back stronger.
Pretty sure it happens by hitting the standup targets, but only after the castle lock has been lit a couple few times.
I bought a clear speaker panel and it already arrived. It's not a terribly big deal, a couple of purple drips will not stand out to me when the display is in full color. Almost every repro plastic I've bought has some color differences from the original. Thanks dmb for working on this project.
Quoted from mollyspub:
my BSD seems not to keep certain settings such as had a extra ball after video mode1. Next time I turned it on, it had changed to video mode 2. I have it set to extra ball at 200k but the display reads 154k and lastly mist is supposed to be activated at 5 ramp hits but activates much sooner. Any ideas ?
Are your high scores holding? Might be a battery issue.
Quoted from jkashani:
Can anyone tell me where I can get replacements optos both receiver and transmitter or a parts number. Please PM me. Thanks
Is this the type you're looking for?
I thought the purpose of the metal piece was to keep the model from hanging up on the cab when lowering. I may have the piece reversed, but I'm thinking it should still be on the outside back of the model.
Quoted from Glarrownage:
I've read that people have installed the ColorDMD LCD without removing the LND flashers. For those that have done this successfully, could you enlighten me? I've read some vague comments that its possible but I'm not seeing how during my attempt at an install. Then again, I also have the color changing mod which slightly gets in the way. If anyone has some pics I would really appreciate it.
On my game I was able to mount the flasher lightboard just a bit lower and then everything fit. Definitely was glad not to lose the flasher function, or to make some other crazy modification to make it work.
If this is the same DMD panel I have... I was a little annoyed at the color differences, but honestly at this point I don't really notice. And the color DMD is nice.
So I got back from Replay FX last week. Guess what game I put the most plays on? Yep BSD. Played it every time I walked by, it was very addictive. 500+ games there and I can't stay away from one that I own.
First pic, Dracula as I typically see it mostly in the dark. Second pic for comparison.
For the long opto issue, if you have recently switched to LEDs (at least this was the fix for my game) replace the 2 lamps near the upper opto with incandescent. For a quick test go underside with a nut driver if you don't want to pull everything off the topside, and just remove those bulbs to give it a try.
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