Quoted from KornFreak28:the Mist light? It just doesn't turn on.
Broken wire inside the moving harness you can't see.
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Quoted from KornFreak28:the Mist light? It just doesn't turn on.
Broken wire inside the moving harness you can't see.
LTG : )
Quoted from flynnsbit:Is this sticking on the lock an alighnment issue, coil sleve issue, or just needs a bit of lubricant on the shaft?
I'd go with a new coil sleeve and clean the plunger/shaft real good first. Check for alignment.
LTG : )
Quoted from paulie484:Wondering if anyone has sourced lightning flipper bats in blue ? Can only find official lightning bats in white,
White works. Rit Dye.
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Quoted from marksf123:Hoping can someone help me out and let me know where these two green wires attach?
To the yellow wire/lug.
Compare to other stand up targets in your game. White wire and black end of the diode to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver band end of a diode to a lug.
Identical pattern on every switch in your game.
The yellow wire is a jumper to jump your green wire to the next targets.
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Quoted from curban:Any ideas how to diagnose?
Maybe this will help.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Opto_Switches
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Quoted from curban:How can you determine replacements parts for these?
Manual should have a diagram in it of the board and parts list.
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Quoted from paulie484:is this a 12v led strip or 6v ?
I'd guess 6 volts since it's on a playfield circuit board that used to have #555 bulbs.
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Quoted from Luckdragon100:Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
Tests - Switch Edge - bang on playfield. Any switch that needs adjusting register on the DMD ?
Any errors reported if you go into Test ?
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Quoted from Treelk:Any ideas where to start?
Keep to one thread and not across three. Otherwise you'll get a variety of answers that won't help because they don't know the whole story.
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Quoted from rvermeire:Suggestions
Sounds like optos. This will help :
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Opto_Switches
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Quoted from Leechman:Can anything else cause that?
Go through the check list :
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
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Quoted from Leechman:Only thing I can find on it is to replace batteries/holder
Replace batteries. If it still does the factory reset, then replace the battery holder. Or grab a meter and see if battery power is getting onto the board. The parts that grip the battery ends often break and you lose contact.
Quoted from Leechman:Hey Lloyd! How are you old friend?
Good Phil. A pleasure to run into you again. Hope you and your loved ones have a great Christmas !
LTG : )
Quoted from Hans_Saris:What could cause this behavior? How to resolve?
Left limit switch under the playfield needs adjusting or is flaky and needs replacing.
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Quoted from codered9394:I thought the same thing but when I wire it the same as the others I get a error.
What does the error say ?
All should be the same. Switch body is marked. White wire and black end of diode to C, green wire to NO, silver band end of diode goes to NC.
Check the markings on the switch body, To be sure the switch you have isn't different with the C, NO, NC.
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Quoted from McDoom:Can anyone tell me if I can still purchase the lady and Keanu plastics shown here?
In a set - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1744
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Quoted from McDoom:Can anyone tell me if I can still purchase the lady and Keanu plastics shown here?
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/dracula-bram-stoker-slingshot-covers.html
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Quoted from McDoom:Also, does anyone have a link to the Vlad “casket” tombstone mod?
Not available anymore.
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Quoted from BigGav:MISSING KNOCKER ?
Quoted from BigGav:Im hoping someone can tell me where I should be connecting the wires to??
Assuming your game is set to a country where it's used and not a coin counter.
Your game can tell you.
Go into Tests - Solenoids - scroll through to the knocker coil. Stop there and then hit the start button. Then hitting the "+" or "-" diagnostic buttons you step through solenoid name, fuse, drive transistor, wire colors, and connector number and which pin info.
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Quoted from Staffan:if your missing the whole assembly
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Quoted from Gorgar666:I think it needs a weaker coil.
Or rubber pad where the plunger hits metal.
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Quoted from Moomert1:Does anyone know what size / type of screw goes to this ramp flap.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=109
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Quoted from Nomad:Turns out they both have broken leads running to the lamp sockets. What's the best way to fix this?
New ones.
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Quoted from rvermeire:What cable should I solder where ?
Lugs are different positions. Points that make contact with each other on leaf blades aren't. Study the existing targets.
Lug that goes nowhere is an anchor for black end of diode and white wire. Lugs that go to the points on the leaf blades, one is for green wire one is for silver banded end of diode.
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Quoted from rvermeire:My wires are yellow
Yellow would be a jumper to or from another switch.
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Quoted from rvermeire:ok so still very confused.
Red arrow - black end of diode and white wire with blue stripe.
Light blue arrow - green wire - or maybe your yellow wire depending where it is jumpered to.
Pink arrow - silver band end of the diode.
LTG : )
c02d1f22274cac67a1c7cf536b69bad98613de7b (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinkitten:Any ideas what would cause the switches to stop responding in play and in test?
A broken wire there, or from that switch to other switches along the way to the board.
Check the switch matrix in your manual to find the row and column and which switches to check.
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Quoted from rvermeire:I installed a new target and also replaced the diode but still got the call out.
Wires in the right spots, diode facing the right direction ?
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Quoted from ArcadeVideo:When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds.
Be sure shooter lane switch moves up and down freely in the slot in the playfield. Isn't sticking or getting hit by the shooter rod.
Shooter lane switch is #17, left rear of the playfield is switches #15, and #16 . Be sure green wire brown stripe is solid on all three.
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Quoted from Moomert1:Thoughts?
Broken wire in the coiled harness you can't see cutting power to the magnet ?
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Quoted from Moomert1:If that was the case, would the ball also drop during test mode? In test mode, the ball makes it all the way across.
In Test it's getting more power, nothing else is going. So a wire hanging by a hair might get enough to work.
My guess. Opto issue would be next.
LTG : )
Quoted from Deadlander:could shed some light
Light you seek. Light you get.
Purple wire with the green stripe goes on the lug with two other purple wires with green stripe.
Blue wire with brown stripe goes to the other lug all by it's lonesome.
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Quoted from roffels:Do you know this stuff off the top of your head?!
That one I did.
Some I have to think on.
Some I have to study or look up.
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Quoted from DropGems:Start button not working. Not getting a closed on the switch test. Just got pin used and suck at diagnostics
Listen to it carefully, do you hear it click when you push it ?
Wires to it look intact ?
Then I'd put a meter on it, and see if switch works ?
Then check page 3-4 in the manual, the switch matrix. Check the row and column switches to see if you have a broken wire at another switch.
LTG : )
Quoted from DropGems:My start button switch I think is busted. Checked the connections and switch test shows open and can’t get it to trigger.
If you push it in and listen carefully, can you hear the switch click ?
I'd put a meter on the switch to check it before throwing money at it. Could also have a break in wiring from that switch to the CPU.
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Quoted from DropGems:Anyone have a link on the right start switch for this game
Here is the whole assembly : https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-start-button-20-9663-1.html
LTG : )
Quoted from DropGems:My start button switch I think is busted.
That switch snaps into a white plastic holder and the switch and holder snaps hard into the switch body. Be sure it is in tight so the start button depresses the tab on the switch body.
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Quoted from Zee:Years ago I posted this series of photos about the pivot latch & slider, maybe it has what you are looking for:
I've referred people to your link many times.
Huge thank you for doing it and keeping it online.
LTG : )
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Looking for a playfield slider assembly for the right side
https://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-17749-1-2
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Quoted from Luckdragon100:this is what the shooter tip is supposed to look like?
Compare to new one on the pinball part suppliers websites.
Yours is worn and mushroomed a little.
I'd get a new one and coil sleeve.
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Quoted from Luckdragon100:Which one would that be on here?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-a-6306-2.html
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Quoted from Luckdragon100:Trying to find the actual part that makes contact with the ball
You have the manual ? If so it's the drawing on top of page 2-35, not the slingshot drawing you pictured.
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Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Does anyone know what chips U18, and U19 control (to the right of U20)
U20 is columns so those would be rows.
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Quoted from Billc479:Your problem is mechanical.
According to his description every time he flips it moves up. His crank is loose. Time to get it back in position and tighten the pawl nut.
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Quoted from LeeChaolan:If that nut isn't tight enough I'm gonna have to hit the gym that thing is on there.
Hit the gym.
See picture, the arrow points to the gap on the pawl. It needs to be narrower.
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Pinside_forum_7570931_0 (resized).jpgQuoted from Gorgar666:.drop target not locking up…
Pretty simple mech, lower it and look over. See if it needs cleaning, new coil sleeve, ledge drop target latches on when up worn or broken, or whole mech too far forward and going up drop target hits edge of playfield.
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Quoted from ClassicHornet:I’ve got UV paint on my graveyard, not as bright as an LED but more realistic I think ?
Looks nice.
Some of the first few games used glow in the dark moldings, but didn't look good. Yours looks good.
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Quoted from gunstarhero:Does anyone know where to get the correct spring for the left Mist gate?
Manual says 10-194. Google pinball 10-194 says Marco and Pinball Life.
https://www.pinballlife.com/extension-spring-10-194.html
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Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:Does anyone here know what AC voltage inserts and gi run at in these BSD William Bally machines?
Inserts 6 volts DC and GI 6 volts AC
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Quoted from Cariba:Why the difference between AC & DC, is AC better for constant running lights?
AC GI pretty much go on or off. DC insert lights need to be controlled for individual lighting of different inserts. Hence the lamp matrix. I don't know if you easily do that with AC.
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Quoted from pacman11:Did BSD orginaly come with lightning flippers?
Regular size blood red on prototypes or sample games. Changed to the little shorter lightening bolt flippers to shorten ball times when games shipped.
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Quoted from whoknowsgoi:So lower gi still not working.
Power leaving driver board ? Power getting to driver board ? Power leaving transformer ?
Sort that out first, then you'll know transformer connector issue, board issue ( lost thru board continuity on pins connector plugs onto ) things like that.
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Quoted from whoknowsgoi:Any help would be appreciated
I'd check continuity of each pin the connector goes to on the driver board, to a place on the board away from that area, follow the traces. See if you lost through board continuity.
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Quoted from whoknowsgoi:Everything checks out and all other gi lighting is working it’s making me nuts
Try and narrow it down. Power leaving transformer. Power getting to driver board. Power leaving driver board.
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Quoted from whoknowsgoi:any insight on this?
Go over your work. Find the weak point. Fix it better.
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Quoted from 80spit:What would be causing this?
Optos on flipper button opto boards. Two each side. Upper optos for flippers, lower optos for lane changes, entering initials, etc.
Check in Tests - Switch Edge - pass something between each opto. Might just need cleaning.
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Quoted from Nicoli125:does it just pull out?
Turn the game off. Carefully. Note where the indent is on the old chip and where it's marked on the board. Put the new one in so the notch lines up with the mark on the board. Don't go by the labels.
See picture of the notch and mark on board as an example.
LTG : )
Quoted from Leonardogit:my left flipper is without the E.O.S, would that be it?
No. EOS is dedicated. Not matrixed like the other switches. Game will ignore it. You should fix it.
Quoted from Leonardogit:when I press the left flipper the Altar (Rat hole) is activated by itself,
Tests - Switch Edge - bang on playfield. Any switch reporting on the DMD is too sensitive and needs adjusting.
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Quoted from Leonardogit:Is it worth testing the flipper opto board?
No. Two different circuits.
You could swap left and right easily if you want.
LTG : )
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