(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

35 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (11 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (11 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (11 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (10 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider leechaolan.
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#9082 2 years ago

I'm currently in the process of getting my first owned (and all time favorite) pin BSD up and running. After fixing an error with the board I'm getting this error from the game audits.
TOP LEFT POPPER OPTO SWITCH 56

Not really able to find this exactly in the manual, but it seems to be the sensor on the Renfeld hole even though top left make me think the mystery/mist hole. Any suggestions?

#9084 2 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

See page 2-46 of the manual for switch locations. Looks like Renfield.
You can double check the wire colours — green-black and white-blue.
Page 3-22 show the 10 opto board wiring. Switch 56 is gray-blue and orange-blue.

Thanks gonna work on it later and will report back.

3 months later
#9259 1 year ago

Months later I'm finally back and I got my BSD up and running...other than one last error "magnet unload error." Running the test in the menu shoots several balls down the trough and runs the magnet back and forth. I am able to see both optos with my cell phone camera on either side. I'm noticing its not kicking a ball into either mist hole during the test, and there isn't one sitting in there by default. Could my machine be down a ball or does it sound like opto alignment/board issues?

#9261 1 year ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

When I had "magnet unload error", it was simply a pressure switch on the left side that needed adjustment. When the magnet goes to the left, it depresses a switch at the end of its run. My switch was loose. I adjusted it and tightened it down. No issues since. Maybe that will help you. Maybe not.

I'll take a look at it and see. Should there be a ball in the left waiting on a mist multiball at game start? I don't have one in there.

#9263 1 year ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

No, on the right side only

Looks like neither side has a ball in it at game start. Game is going straight to mist multi when the back hole is shot when mist is lit.

#9268 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Great advice from Thor-NL.
I went to service a BSD the other week. The owner didn't know what Mist Multiball was and had never seen it despite owning the machine for quite some time. Switch 82 did not change state when the optical beam was interrupted. Went straight to the 24-opto board. The electrolytic capacitors had leaked and spewed their guts all over the board. Can be repaired but not cost effective to repair. So I built him one of my reproduction boards (new board) and everything is working for him.
It can be the opto pair or the 24-opto board. Inspect the 24-opto board. Electrolytic capacitor leaks are VERY common on this board. Almost every original 24-opto in a BSD I have seen has one or both electrolytic capacitors that have leaked. If you are unsure post pictures of the board.

So the plot thickens. I pulled up the playfield to get pics of the board and there was an old opto board in the bottom of the cabinet in a bag. Its totally warped and no doubt bad and was replaced. I attached a picture of it for reference. The one installed is what looks like a brand new one from home pin.com. It looks to be in pretty good shape as least as far as a novice can tell.

Some history on this table . Mid 90s my parents were in the arcade industry this was one of our favorite tables but when the industry went kaput they had to sell all their stuff and dad and mom got more traditional jobs. A few years back dad got in touch with an old industry buddy who was still keeping on in the amusement world and he started helping him some on the side. About 6 months ago he called me and said a guy who used to help him had died and his widow wanted to sell some game stuff he had and dad was the only one she knew to call. Sure enough when he walked in there sat our very same BSD. They were going to flip all the stuff this lady had but I told him I'd buy the BSD whatever it took and she offered me a great price since it didn't work any more. I paid the lady and the table went to my dad's associate for repair. When he got it the rubbers were rotted , the right flipper wasn't going, plunger didn't work, and it was showing up two opto errors . He took ill and wasn't able to work on it beyond fixing the plunger/flipper/rubbers and it sat there for 4 to 5 months till he was able to work on it again. The last thing were two opto errors(probably related to this) and the magnet unload error. The optos were replaced and it stopped showing an error on those, but now it still shows magnet unload error. He pretty much gave up on fixing it so we decided to get it back since you can play it just the killer feature doesn't work.

20220731_172041 (resized).jpg20220731_172041 (resized).jpg20220731_172108 (resized).jpg20220731_172108 (resized).jpg
#9270 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

That's what the original 24-opto board should look like. Electrolytic capacitor guts spewed on the board and components.
You can assume the Homepin board is good but if you have questions about it you should read the documentation that came with it. Failing that you should contact the manufacturer (Homepin) or the merchant that it was purchased from for support. That board is not the original circuit used by Williams and has a potentiometer for adjustment of something.
If you want to assume the board is good then verify the opto pair. If you have spares of the transmitter and receiver boards you can verify they are good by using them in an ordinary opto pair and running the switch tests. Then you can swap those now proven good transmitter and receivers to the long opto pair (switch 82) and that should work. You can also just take out a known good and swap that into switch 82 for a quick differential diagnosis. Brand new opto pairs are likely to be good (you assume this) but you should really prove they are good. Otherwise you still have two variables (opto pair or board) and you haven't differentiated between the two.
It should be either:

the opto pair
the 24-opto board

Of course, it could be something else but those are the two most likely things with the highest odds of return to look at.

Thanks for the detailed info. I ran a switch test with everything back in to see and The Ball on Magnet T3 82 Opto is flashing between open and closed rapidly. If I put my hand in font of the beam it stops.

#9272 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

That sounds like a board problem. Might be an adjustment on the board (that potentiometer). Mess with that at your own risk as I don't know the electronics on that board. It could also be that the opto pair is failing and the electronics manifest the failure in this manner.
To be sure going forward you must differentiate between the opto pair (both transmitter and receiver must be working) and the board. The switch test doesn't definitively differentiate between them.
Without definitive differentiation between the opto pair and the board you have reached the limit of my ability to help you on this.

I'll get to testing over the next few days and report back when I can thanks again for the advice.

#9289 1 year ago
Quoted from pins4u:

I found this somewhere;
"Short these two pins together to test this Homepin replacement BSD opto board. The green LED should light and the adjustment pot on the board can be fine tuned to ensure the green LED is solid."
It looks to me like this takes the optos out of the picture and allows you to set the board sensitivity or something like that without unknown or flaky optos or opto wiring and plugs causing possible problems?
[quoted image]

Thanks I will try. I've been fixing a few more smaller issues our tech didn't fix/finish when he had it. The Coffin ramp torch lights weren't out like I thought but just left hanging loose not screwed in under the playfield, dead left outlane switch and a few other things. Once I get the easy stuff I'm gonna start on this mist issue.

1 week later
#9323 1 year ago

Thanks all for the help everyone. Turns out the replacement board was bad. Got it replaced and now 99% of everything is working save a few lights.

3 weeks later
#9362 1 year ago

Is BSD supposed to have a pole or something to hold the playfield up ? Mine doesn't stay upright unless you hold it , and it makes it very difficult to work on as you can imagine! Here's a shot of what it looks like now.

undersidesmall (resized).PNGundersidesmall (resized).PNG
#9366 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I'm not sure how you got the playfield down there. The playfield pivots on the posts on the side of the box and the playfield leans against the backbox.

It came to me this way. I knew something was off with it since the family business used to work on them in the 90s but its my first time owning one.

Quoted from Zee:

20 years ago I did a basic web page for the latching mechanism on this vintage of pinball machine:
https://videoengine.com/pins/tz/tzpix/pix12.htm
Hopefully it helps you.
-Zee

This sounds extremely useful I'll read up. Thanks.

3 weeks later
#9477 1 year ago

Hey all. I'm going to be doing an interview with Paul Heitsch, who composed this game, (tentatively) next week on my youtube channel. If you guys have any questions about his work on BSD or other pinballs feel free to drop them here or PM me and I'll do my best to ask them. I'm definitely going to be asking a few questions about this game since its my favorite pin.

1 month later
#9522 1 year ago

I recently turned on the attract mode sound and starting leave the game on on days I work from home. It goes through all the standard callouts from the game but after about 3 hours or so I heard one I'd never heard before. It was something like "we'll meet again my mortal friend" anyone ever heard this call out before? I haven't been able to get it to make this sound again since.

#9525 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

I’ve heard it but not too often.

I'm doing some testing on it for science. It seems when you turn on the game and set it to attract mode sounds often you get the same callouts in sequence assuming you don't mess with it. You have to wait about 10 minutes between callouts and to hear the unused one takes about 3 hours. Working on a list to see if there's any more "hidden" ones.

I made a list of the first 20 or so and will see if it's the same tomorrow on start up.

1 month later
#9641 1 year ago

Just installed pinball bulb's LED lighting kit and it looks fantastic, but I've noticed one of the coffin lights stays on dimly during gameplay. Looks fine when a ball is locked or in attract mode, but just during game play its partially lit as below. I checked the voltages on the bulbs. The one that's staying on is 3.1 and the one that is behaving normally is 2.8. Any suggestions? Works fine when I put old style bulbs back in it. When you view it through the phone camera you can see its flashing ever so slightly in tandem with the skill shot face light on the back.

ghosting (resized).jpgghosting (resized).jpg

#9643 1 year ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Switch the bulbs and see if it does the same thing. Maybe ya need a non-ghosting bulb.

Cycled out several bulbs and all LEDs do the same thing. All non ghosting.

5 months later
#10157 11 months ago

My right flipper spring snapped during play the other night so I decided to do a flipper rebuild(first time doing one). After installing the right flipper starts out fine but starts to stick higher and higher the more you flip it as in the image below. If you cut the power with it up it stays stuck up there so definitely think I have something too tight or not tight enough. Any suggestions?

20230508_220535 (resized).jpg20230508_220535 (resized).jpg
#10161 11 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Your problem is mechanical. When rebuilding, did you use a spacer under the flipper to allow proper spacing between the flipper and playfield? The spacer is about as thick as a plastic credit card.
Also, are the screws for the flipper plate tight? When putting the coil back, is/are the guides right against the coil? Does the coil look “square” to the flipper plate?
I don’t remember if Drac uses a spring (wavy) washer or not. If it used it, did you put it back in?
Since it’s only one flipper, you have a mirror image to work from.
Let us know what you find.

The rebuild kit came with a spacer tool that I used. Per the manual I've replaced all washers, but I'm double checking now. Here it is as it sits too high atm.

If that nut isn't tight enough I'm gonna have to hit the gym that thing is on there.

20230508_225454 (resized).jpg20230508_225454 (resized).jpg
#10162 11 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

According to his description every time he flips it moves up. His crank is loose. Time to get it back in position and tighten the pawl nut.
LTG : )

Sorry for double post.

I went to the tool box and got something a little stronger and a better angle. The other flipper was clearly tighter than I had it so I tightened it to match and now no more sticking. You guys are the best. Love the powerful pop it has after the rebuild looking forward to starting the other.

#10172 11 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I went with purple perfect play rubbers on mine and feel it suits well
[quoted image][quoted image]

Really digging those purple ones. I got the black ones before I put in LEDs and I think the purples might suit it better.

Also finished the other flipper tonight and hit grand champion. I'm now a believer in flipper rebuilds. Plays like a whole other game from what I was used to.

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