(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

35 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (11 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (11 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (11 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (10 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gjm7777.
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#8275 2 years ago

Hey everyone,
New to the club, I've been working on getting the game cleaned up and playing right. I noticed that I have a whole row of lights out in the back of the playfield.
This is the row that lights up the back left of the left ramp, the mystery hole, and the 3 lane guides above the jets.

I don't see any roached connectors or broken fuses. It looks like someone put all LED bulbs in there but I'm not sure where to check next.
All the sockets appear to be soldered on just fine, nothing loose and while most of the chain is all yellow GI wire, it does tap into brown and white/brown off a high power lamp it seems (under the left ramp)

#8278 2 years ago
Quoted from Santis:

I had that problem. The line that powers it is a white whit brown band wire and a brown wire. Positive and ground or vice versa. The come from backbox to under the ram. From there to the other side of play. In the junction ( a light socket start the yellow wire that power that part under the ramp Look for that joint if is loose. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice.

I need to multimeter the whole chain yet but so far

Brown and Brown/White lines check out fine for continuity all the way from the first socket (the GI string taps off) to the tip of the connector pin in the backbox.

When powered up the first socket with the two Brown and Brown/White lines read fine for voltage.
The second and third (havent made my way through each one yet) sockets also read fine for voltage.

My next plan will be to reflow the first socket tabs where the Yellow wires of the GI chain meet the Brown and Brown/White lines.
If no success there, Taking out the LEDs one at a time will be my next step I guess.

With GI as I understand it, there wouldn't be anything in the Lamp matrix as those are for "feature" lamps only.

#8280 2 years ago
Quoted from roffels:

I had the same issue, fuse looked fine but I replaced it anyways. All worked fine afterward.

Yeah I suppose it can't hurt to try - based on the manual the best/first choice would be F110?

fuse (resized).JPGfuse (resized).JPG
#8282 2 years ago

That was it!
F110 5A fuse was all it needed - I should have started there but that's what happens when you think it "looks" fine.

Thanks again, down to one more switch error and I can start playing....

#8285 2 years ago
Quoted from Zee:

I thought you said the voltages checked out ok with the game on.

Well, I was getting voltage - but I don't recall the exact number as it was fluctuating, wasn't sure if that should have been constant or if it pulses by design.
I assumed that any voltage was good news but that was wrong on my part.

#8293 2 years ago

Does anyone know where I can get translucent red plastic protectors for the slings and the ball guides?
Every place I find only seems to have clear.

Thanks

#8298 2 years ago

I appreciate it Bill,
Tracked down that store as well, but it doesn't look like they do BSD.

#8304 2 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

GJM7777 - Did you ask them? I have a feeling they are searching for products to make - I wonder if you ask, they would be able to offer something up.
Just to clarify, I don't know them or have I used any of their products - I just noticed them when reading the threads on the site.

I have not yet but definitely appreciate the advice, Edit* I see that CFES is the same so will reply here below.

Quoted from TFK:

Hello,
I can help you out with that. I have translucent red petg. If you can scan the plastics I can make them for you. Let me know[quoted image]

Hello, I appreciate this as well however I don't have the ability to get you the scans sadly. If I can change that, I'll let you know - Thank You!

#8310 2 years ago
Quoted from TFK:

Well Im always trying to help. I made a call and got you your BSD plastics. Here they are in red, I will put them on my site and you can grab them there. If you could send me a pic of them installed that would be great.
Joe
[quoted image]

Wow, that's amazing - yeah for sure put them up or shoot me a message here and I'll be happy to get installed pics.
Thanks so much!

#8312 2 years ago

Got em!

#8330 2 years ago
Quoted from TFK:

Well Im always trying to help. I made a call and got you your BSD plastics. Here they are in red, I will put them on my site and you can grab them there. If you could send me a pic of them installed that would be great.
Joe
[quoted image]

Received the protectors today , really appreciate the quick turnaround time!

Here are a few pics, this is the most even I could get them so I’m not sure if you’ll want to use them or not.

Thanks again
52D576C7-81AA-4E56-8259-221BEFD307E4 (resized).jpeg52D576C7-81AA-4E56-8259-221BEFD307E4 (resized).jpegA091E124-8172-4D24-A880-6903AE0229D7 (resized).jpegA091E124-8172-4D24-A880-6903AE0229D7 (resized).jpegD50230D5-45D1-4C1D-8A48-E6928497D85E (resized).jpegD50230D5-45D1-4C1D-8A48-E6928497D85E (resized).jpegFF7B1CB2-FC0A-4438-B8FA-3CE723FA7557 (resized).jpegFF7B1CB2-FC0A-4438-B8FA-3CE723FA7557 (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#8332 2 years ago

Sure thing

#8363 2 years ago

I've had a few games come and go, but this game really keeps you coming back like no other - even if its 1-2 games a day.
What the hell is happening............

4 months later
#8748 2 years ago
Quoted from McDoom:

Help with the multi-ball issues.
I’ll explain this the best way I know-how.
When I go into multi-ball mode, the game continues to load balls into the shooter lane and launches them into play continuously even if I drain. (basically multi ball doesn't end and won't time out).
My mist multi ball works as intended (carries ball across playfield) about 10% of the time.
Usually, when I go into mist multiball the balls just come down from the left lane and where ever else they are released from. 90% the ball doesn't travel across the playfeild.

Easiest thing to check - How many Balls are installed in your game - this can happen if you have one (or more) too many.

8 months later
#9371 1 year ago

So I wanted to post this in case it helps someone else with Mist Multiball or Magnet Load errors.

I started developing the error out of nowhere and the magnet test would only see the ball first get loaded into the right magnet pocket/gate 20% at best.
Even though the opto tests were fine, I noticed I could only get the optos to register in test if I blocked the Left Magnet pocket pretty close to where the receiving opto was (i'm still not sure if this is normal or not, but just trying to break the opto line in the middle of the playfield doesn't work.

Anyways, I tried cleaning and adjusting the optos to no avail, and thinking back to my teardown shop I had replaced the receiver opto and reflowed the opto board underneath the playfield, but never replaced the transmitter as I didn't have one on hand. This time I did and a few hours later after pulling everything apart, I replaced it and everything was working fine - Success or so I thought...

Tonight I turned on the game for a few flips and the issue came back again (turn on game, right pocket gate opens and dumps the ball out, new one loads, right pocket gate opens and dumps it yet again, game stops trying to load a ball up to the pocket and in diag magnet load error registers)

After taking a better look at the Right Magnet pocket I realized that the ball was not sitting completely where it should be, it was not resting against the ball guide, but rather it was MAGNITIZED enough to where the ball was hanging on the damn gate, which was just enough to not block the opto beam correctly causing the whole damn issue!

This is what happens when you don't check the most basic things first, and the cherry on top is I'll be walking like a hunchback for a few days from trying to solder in that right opto, I probably looked like Ron Jeremy bending over the damn thing too..
evil-laugh-laugh.gifevil-laugh-laugh.gif

#9373 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I’ve finally finished my BSD restore except….. the damn glass won’t go on because the village and ramp are too high?
What am I missing?
Are the brackets pictured the correct ones?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Did you look at the shop out guide, or (search this thread) and confirm you have the correct size hex standoffs for the ramps/villiage etc in the right place? If I recall there can be some issues if the wrong size hexes are mixed up and installed in the wrong locations and may be why they are sitting higher than the should be where the glass is rubbing them?

https://files.spilledilla.com/Diverse/RepairGuides/shop_BSD.pdf

#9375 1 year ago

Hmm I don’t think so no.
Is it possible the playfield locking rails and hardware are mounted in the cab wrong? I’m assuming this is the original cabinet and mounting hardware but just trying to think what else it could be..

#9381 1 year ago

Wow, CoolCatPinball you are the only other person I've seen that has a CCr next to their BSD, we must have great taste.

#9384 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Double check your wire gates. I'm fairly certain that they should be copper so that magnetized balls can't get stuck to them!

They definitely don't look to be copper, just standard metal from what I can tell (if looks are all to go off) but the ball was definitely sticking to it, crazy...

#9387 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

You can re-make them out of stainless steel welding rod. Very strong and not magnetic.

Good idea, I'll look into this at some point then, thanks.

#9412 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Still having problems with this game, it is literally the most difficult restore I’ve done
The ball doesn’t register on the mystery hole popper opto unless I give the machine a shake
Is the subway supposed to sit like the picture below where the plastic ramp sits above the metal bracket for the opto? Can someone check please?
[quoted image]

Here is mine
502D1E0D-E64C-4AAC-B556-C7738C85163B (resized).jpeg502D1E0D-E64C-4AAC-B556-C7738C85163B (resized).jpeg

#9413 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

So I wanted to post this in case it helps someone else with Mist Multiball or Magnet Load errors.
I started developing the error out of nowhere and the magnet test would only see the ball first get loaded into the right magnet pocket/gate 20% at best.
Even though the opto tests were fine, I noticed I could only get the optos to register in test if I blocked the Left Magnet pocket pretty close to where the receiving opto was (i'm still not sure if this is normal or not, but just trying to break the opto line in the middle of the playfield doesn't work.
Anyways, I tried cleaning and adjusting the optos to no avail, and thinking back to my teardown shop I had replaced the receiver opto and reflowed the opto board underneath the playfield, but never replaced the transmitter as I didn't have one on hand. This time I did and a few hours later after pulling everything apart, I replaced it and everything was working fine - Success or so I thought...
Tonight I turned on the game for a few flips and the issue came back again (turn on game, right pocket gate opens and dumps the ball out, new one loads, right pocket gate opens and dumps it yet again, game stops trying to load a ball up to the pocket and in diag magnet load error registers)
After taking a better look at the Right Magnet pocket I realized that the ball was not sitting completely where it should be, it was not resting against the ball guide, but rather it was MAGNITIZED enough to where the ball was hanging on the damn gate, which was just enough to not block the opto beam correctly causing the whole damn issue!
This is what happens when you don't check the most basic things first, and the cherry on top is I'll be walking like a hunchback for a few days from trying to solder in that right opto, I probably looked like Ron Jeremy bending over the damn thing too..
[quoted image]

So after all of this, I still have the issue! - I think I know what it is though, but I'm not sure why it's happening.

The magnet under the playfield is energizing during the magnet load/unload on startup.

##From a fresh startup (ball in right pocket)##
Gate opens and releases ball>Ball get put into shooter lane>ramp lifts>right pocket loaded>Magnet kicks on>gate opens and dumps ball (this repeats 3-4 times and it wont attempt to load after that) During this there are times where a ball isn't making it's way to the shooter lane and it attempts magnet load a ball that isn't there.

##From a fresh startup (ball in left pocket)##
No issues, game starts as normal, mist multiball works (direction is left to right obviously but it works fine)

I have no idea why the magnet is energizing like this, if I recall the magnet usually slides around during initial bootup of the game. It just feels like the whole sequence is "off" somehow which is causing this...

#9415 1 year ago

I think it should be below like in my pic as I’ve never had an issue.

#9422 1 year ago

I appreciate the help guys no worries. Here is a video that should help show things better than I can explain.

#9424 1 year ago

Trough switches are all good and register fine - only credit dot is due to magnet load error as it gets triggered by this messed up load sequence.
I'll take a look at the opto board I suppose and see if there is anything obvious.

#9426 1 year ago

Interesting but makes sense.
My ball is already sitting up that high (thanks to the magnet holding it there) which seems to cause the issue of it not being seen.

I pulled the 10 opto board and I must have been mistaken, I had never reflowed anything on there, it did have some cold joints and some legs of the ICs barely had any solder.

The 35v cap at C1 had started leaking fluid a tiny bit as I could see some of it on the first 4 diodes above it. I replaced the diodes and all test with the multimeter seem to show that there was no real trace damage so this could have been caught early. The board had 12v (well, at least the LED on it said so)

I have ordered a new cap and will hope this fixes things, if not the board may be bad as mentioned earlier. I appreciate everyone's help though!

#9430 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Interesting but makes sense.
My ball is already sitting up that high (thanks to the magnet holding it there) which seems to cause the issue of it not being seen.
I pulled the 10 opto board and I must have been mistaken, I had never reflowed anything on there, it did have some cold joints and some legs of the ICs barely had any solder.
The 35v cap at C1 had started leaking fluid a tiny bit as I could see some of it on the first 4 diodes above it. I replaced the diodes and all test with the multimeter seem to show that there was no real trace damage so this could have been caught early. The board had 12v (well, at least the LED on it said so)
I have ordered a new cap and will hope this fixes things, if not the board may be bad as mentioned earlier. I appreciate everyone's help though!

So in addition to replacing the caps on the 10 opto, I also pulled the 24 opto board and replaced caps there. I've even added some weather stripping on the ball guide as recommended. Neither seems to have made any real difference.
If the game can pass the magnet test, (load, unload, magnet on L/R, opto) if you exit out of the diag/test menus the ball will stay in there like it should.

If I leave the game off for a few hours and come back, turn it on - first thing it does is dump the ball out of the right gate and the whole issue re-appears.

I do notice in the magnet test, sometimes it actually sees the ball in the right pocket after load, sometimes it doesnt. When the magnet on Left test is working and bringing the ball across to the Right pocket, you can see the beam being occasionally broken (assuming this is normal due to wobbly nature of the ball during mist)

This is getting pretty frustrating at this point.

Can anyone confirm that in switch test, you can put your hand across the middle of the playfield - will it trigger the opto break?

If I do switch edge test, all my optos do show up as on/pressed (same with the balls in the trough)

Thanks

#9434 1 year ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Did you replace the inductor on the 24 opto board as well?

No I didn't - I'd have to find one, but no idea of the specs on it, where to find one.
Is there a way to test it with a multimeter to rule it out? Everything else on the board beeps out fine along the traces the capacitors sit on.

Edit***
I just tested continuity on the inductor at L1 , and all the way down it’s trace points, all beeped out fine.

#9436 1 year ago

Thanks Gord,
I will pour through those links - much appreciated.

After some more experimenting and testing I'm fairly certain that this is an opto and gate alignment issue. When I do have the issue, in test i'm unable to break the long beam/switch 82. Now, after tweaking the receiver and the additional empty interference plastic in front of it - I can get the beam break to register every time.
It seems to me from here, the trick is going to be getting the gate to
1. not block the beam
2. hold the ball in such a way that it satisfies the opto beam being broke when nested in the pocket

If the magnet wasn't engaging the ball while in the pocket I'm fairly certain this issue would be solved, but I'm not sure why it's doing that - it could be because of the opto issue to begin with (at least i'm hoping that is the case)

#9442 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Thanks Gord,
I will pour through those links - much appreciated.
After some more experimenting and testing I'm fairly certain that this is an opto and gate alignment issue. When I do have the issue, in test i'm unable to break the long beam/switch 82. Now, after tweaking the receiver and the additional empty interference plastic in front of it - I can get the beam break to register every time.
It seems to me from here, the trick is going to be getting the gate to
1. not block the beam
2. hold the ball in such a way that it satisfies the opto beam being broke when nested in the pocket
If the magnet wasn't engaging the ball while in the pocket I'm fairly certain this issue would be solved, but I'm not sure why it's doing that - it could be because of the opto issue to begin with (at least i'm hoping that is the case)

Yet another follow up here

Just when I think I have the optos aligned, after a few hours, I boot up the game and they don't register a break in edge test.
If I jiggle the left mag pocket opto wires a bit from under the playfield, it will bring them back and I can use my hand in the middle of the playfield to break the beam/register in edge test.

I've resoldered the opto wires and they are on there without issue so:

*Either the receiver opto is bad (even though it was replaced less than a year ago)
*The cable has a break inside the jacketing somewhere
*The opto board is a piece of garbage and really should just be replaced like everyone has been telling me for a week

11 months later
#10483 8 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I just went through the whole long range opto thing. My BSD had the Homepin board when I got it and the Mist would work great for a few hours after power up, but would then fail. The issue turned out to be the transmitting opto. Considering the work that it takes to get to the optos I would consider going the 'Shotgun' approach, which is replacing the 24" board with the Homepin board if you don't already have it plus a new set of optos. You have to pull plastics and ramps to get to the optos so you may as well also clean everything while you're in there!

This is the way

#10489 8 months ago

I finally got this game back, had it setup at my brothers for a year or so. Man this game has a "one more play" feel like no other game does.
It feels so foolish to try and stack the three multiballs but damn if it isn't fun trying. A few things I did which were bothering me as well - took out the bulbs under the left ramp and put on the coffin torches from mezelmods - Really helped with the lights being too bright/distracting. Dracula must have the most aggressive attract mode of all time lol.

5 months later
#10974 86 days ago

I forget the podcast now but Barry confirmed that BSD was not designed with lightning flippers. It’s all good if you want the challenge but a major buyer/distro in Europe always ordered their games with lightnings for earning gains.

1 week later
#11018 73 days ago

Has anyone ever attempted or swapped out the two 3 bank stand up targets (left side/center castle lock) for drop target assemblies? I’m not sure they would even fit, or if the software would support it - but it could be pretty cool if so. Even just the center bank like taxi for example.

3 weeks later
#11046 48 days ago

Have an odd issue, left ball popper mech/coil (behind left target bank) keeps firing randomly in attract mode - could it be dirty optos?

#11048 48 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

check if there is any debris blocking the beam, sounds like its trying to empty balls from the popper/locks when the game is over.

Cleaned up the optos and they were pretty dirty, this fixed the issue.
Thanks

4 weeks later
#11104 20 days ago

Just checking to see if anyone might have a rats scoop cliffy protector for sale?

Thanks

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