(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

35 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (11 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (11 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (11 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (10 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#8076 2 years ago

Need a little help. Brand new owner here, and I was doing some routine cleaning/maintenance one would do on a newly acquired machine. I've had the playfield up and down numerous times and the backbox folded up and down. The game was working 100% before my cleaning. Now, upon startup, I'm getting about 5 switch errors, ALL optos. 8m sure it's not 5 switches. Which board or fuse is common to the optics? Oh also it says magnet unload error. Thanks!
EDIT: Found an unplugged connector in the backbox. All is well!

#8078 2 years ago
Quoted from Santis:

hi. Look I think is a plug. Switches are in the CPU is located on the left in backbox (it has the batteries) the bottom plugs. Unplugged them and replug them 1 at the time whit machine off Keep me posted. Good luck.

Thank you, I was indeed a connector unplugged. Problem solved.

#8090 2 years ago

Also a brand new owner here. I have finally worked through all the bugs on my machine except for one. Each time the machine is powered on, it does a normal initial test, but reports "Magnet unload error". The game then proceeds to the normal animation screen, and seems to play 100% error free. The mist magnet carries the ball across the playfield no problem. Any ideas? Thanks!

#8094 2 years ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Run a magnet test; if everything checks out, and the error doesn't clear, try a factory reset.
If that doesn't clear it, try cleaning the optos, or maybe even replacing them (they are cheap)

Quoted from Santis:

Hi. Is very common for the optos to get dust on them. First clean the optos in both side of the playfield (2 pockets). Then try to run a magnet test. Keep me posted. Good luck.

I'll try this when I get home this evening and report back. Thanks!

#8107 2 years ago

Does Bsd have a midnight madness mode? Missed opportunity if not.

#8110 2 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Also a brand new owner here. I have finally worked through all the bugs on my machine except for one. Each time the machine is powered on, it does a normal initial test, but reports "Magnet unload error". The game then proceeds to the normal animation screen, and seems to play 100% error free. The mist magnet carries the ball across the playfield no problem. Any ideas? Thanks!

After running the magnet test, the game reported to me a left switch error. Upon closer inspection, under the playfield where the magnet "cart" hits the physical left limit switch, I found the issue. The micro switch screws were loose and therefore the magnet carriage wasn't engaging the switch. All I had to do was push the switch inwards towards the center of the machine, tighten the screws, and all is good now. Maybe this will help someone in the future.

#8111 2 years ago

Dang it. Every time I figure something out, something else happens. NOW, every time I turn the machine on, it does what seems to be a ball search. It unloads the magnet ball, fires some coils, reloads the magnet, and then plays normally. If I power cycle the game it does it again. Magnet test checks out perfect, and game plays perfect (I believe?)

2 weeks later
#8182 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Just rejoined the club! Looking for a couple of parts if anyone can help out?
Right clear plastic lift ramp
Clear Speaker Panel
Left building popper short wire form
Thanks in advance

Got my clear speaker panel off of ebay. I believe it was game room guys or something like that, but they had more as of a few weeks ago.

#8185 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

How is the quality compared to an original?

Here's the place I got mine on Ebay. Classic Arcades. Very high quality piece. It looks identical to the original, but with a clear window of course. Perfect fit on my machine

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#8198 2 years ago

For folks who were asking about the clear speaker panel, here's mine next to the stock panel. Colors are just the slightest bit different, but it looks amazing when installed. I have no regrets or complaints.

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1 month later
#8292 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Medisinyl isnt running the switch covers anymore ...maybe if we get a bulk order he may run again one day??? !! would love that mod !!
Morpheus is still doing the tombstone cover it is quality stuff !
Dont forget your Mezel Mods lamps too !! [quoted image]

I bought my machine with those torch LEDs installed. They look amazing. I love the flickering effect.

1 week later
#8378 2 years ago

Just watched a few YouTube videos of the Pinsound on BSD. Wow, what a transformation. Some games like Fish Tales, I wasn't too impressed, but on this title it seems to be an amazing upgrade. Now i just have to cough up $400.....

#8392 2 years ago

Just installed my pinsound and I have a basic question. I paid for the preloaded usb drive, and it was included, install was a breeze. Kind of fool proof. However, I've powered the machine on, and some funky music plays and a female voice says checking sound files, please wait. That's all it does. Music and please wait. That's been about 15 minutes now.... what am I missing??

#8396 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

First, I downloaded the Firmware update and copied it to the USB stick and installed it. Pinsound system will automatically remove those files from your stick after it's done updating. Then I copied over the unzipped sound file folder to USB stick and installed it. I plug the USB stick into the Pinsound board with game off, then turn it on to install.
See post #8373 above. I installed only this one so far. It's the 4th one on the download list. I didn't buy the software preinstalled.

Thanks for the info! I did go ahead and pay to have everything done because I'm a computer dunce... lol. Luckily, after about 25 minutes, it finished whatever it was doing and now it's ready to play. I guess the initial boot just takes a long time. I still have no idea how to switch between soundtracks. The board itself is very high quality, but the instructions and website support leave a bit to be desired. Just a quick note on the website about initial boot time would have been a plus.

#8401 2 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Are y’all using a 2.0 or 3.0 Flash Drive?

Not sure, I can look later this evening. I used what they sent with the kit

#8407 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I couldn't turn the volume down below #8 on coin door setting. I found that in "Standard Adjustments" A1-28 "Min Vol Over Ride" has to be set to YES which is NOT the factory default setting. Now it allows me to turn down to Zero.
** Also. Not able to register with the Pinsound Community to download the other sound sets! They will not send me the email confirmation link to finish registration. I was only able to download the Dracula Original and Dracula Remix sound libraries as these didn't require registering. WTF?!
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"359442aff572fdf6aad41d84033297346ef90249-1631403084-1800"};
//]]>

That's why I went ahead and paid for the pre loaded usb drive. I hate complications. Just send me a complete, working, ready to install product.

#8411 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Kay's arcade wanted an extra 60.00 to copy files to a USB stick!!! No thanks. I'll get it resolved. I have two sound sets now. No biggie!

I ordered direct from pinsound and paid $38 express shipping. $15 for files and usb stick. So the cost about evened out.

#8415 2 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

What were the totals shipped?

$453.18. Pinsound + and the preloaded usb drive.

1 week later
#8448 2 years ago
Quoted from hool10:

Got a question for you folks. I'm thinking of selling my BSD to aid in the funding of Sterns Godzilla Premium. What is the high end and low end for a game based on this condition?
1) It was routed heavily of at least 1 known location.
2) A Sun Process playfield filled with planking. It has a playfield protector on it however.
3) A Color-DMD display with new clear speaker panel.
4) Converted to NVRAM.
5) Rottendog Power Driver board and 10 Opto Switch Board. I have the old boards still that I was told can be fixed but the previous operators did a hack job on it and it caught fire. No battery acid damage on it. I just got new boards to reduce a potential headache.
6) New repro ramps installed. I still have all the old ramps but they are chipped, stress cracks, etc.
7) New plastic set installed. I also have all the old plastics.
8) Pinnovators kit installed in the coin door.
9) Pinballbulbs Ultimate LED Lighting Kit. I was too lazy to get bulbs and liked the style they did. https://www.pinballbulbs.com/products/bram-stokers-dracula-ultimate-led-lighting-kit
10) Orange plastic protectors.
11) Titan pinball rubbers including red feet protectors.
12) Art blades that are made for Monster Bash but they look like the town riot are going to Dracula's castle. Unfortunately have been torn a bit with lifting of the playfield. You take off the art blades and the entire sides are all scraped up.
13) Cabinet artwork is very slightly faded but it still looks pretty darn good. I have seen other BSD's and they are way worse.
14) Cabinet condition and decals are pretty good except the legs have dug into the cabinet on the front. I'm half surprised the underside doesn't have a galvanized plate underneath.
15) Flipper buttons are lit red with a Cointaker flipper button kit.
16) Bent plastic to prevent DMD glare on playfield glass.
17) Translite signed by Barry Oursler.
20) Purple flippers and purple pop bumpers that are lit inside the translucent pop bumpers.
21) Cliffys installed. Surprisingly enough the holes aren't really chewed up.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I know this probably isn't what you're hoping to hear, but.... BSD has never commanded a premium price even in pristine condition. If memory serves me, there was a beautifully restored machine for sale not too long ago that sat for a good while at an asking price of about 6k. It was immaculate. Based on what I see in your pictures, I'd expect to get around 3k. Maybe pushing 4k to someone who really really wants it and puts a premium on the color dmd. You might benefit from putting the original dmd back in, and selling the color one separately. Again, probably not what you'd like to get for it, but that would be my guess.

Found the ad from July. Here's a link for comparison
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/117362

#8471 2 years ago

Don't forget the plastic piece that lifts up for the coffin lock. It's separate from the ramp.

#8505 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Another question
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"0072fd77baaef07a64975b7631c1a40b6cf052ae-1632846592-1800"};
//]]>

Which of these coin doors in the original? I'm guessing the one without the bill acceptor slot.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, top is original

#8509 2 years ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

The one with the dba is "domestic market", the one with the the three vertical stampings is "foreign market".
So if your example was a US game, then it should have the one with the dba, and if it was an export/re-import, it would have the one with the three stamps.

Interesting, I just learned something new. Regardless, the coin slots on the bottom one are crooked as Hell and its driving me insane just looking at it!!!

#8518 2 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

Why waste your time ?
Radcal that bitch!
Quick easy and awesome !

I may radcal mine this winter. I've never used them before, but they appear to be an incredible product. Does anyone know of a source for them in the U.S. ?

#8521 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Isn't this USA?
PinballSales.com
1545 Rt 37W Suite 13
Toms River, NJ 08755
http://www.pinballsales.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=350&idcategory=43

Yup, good to know, because Mirco is in Germany and I really didn't want to mess with international shipping.

#8524 2 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, is it true that if you get through 10 video modes there is an animation of Dracula washing your car?
I searched pinside for this and didnt find anything.
I heard about this in a Keith Elwyn video on youtube.
If anyone has done this, do you have video? would be cool to see.

Take the glass off and let's find out!

1 week later
#8595 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Is it just me, or does this game have unusually good DMD animations for the era? I'm having a hard time thinking of a game that looks better. Everything from making an Asylum shot and throwing Reinfeld into the bars, loop shots, and Altars just seems so... fluid, and the "ambient" flicker effect is so good. Hell, even the attract mode "Williams" animation is shadowed and different from other games.

The animations do look amazing for the era. A color dmd is so worth it. Even with the added cost of the clear speaker grille cover

#8602 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Just completed a full led and rubber change out...wow !! what a experience !!! .... I hope it's a while before I have to do that again !
Rookie mistake, changing leds and one of the first wedge sockets I ended up snapping the socket off this board trying to get the lamp in
I attempted to solder it back on but with limited soldering skills I don't think I have done a good enough job as now the centre and bottom lamp are not working (upper one is fine - as snapshot) - assume I've cooked the circuit to the centre and bottom lights ??
Can anyone confirm what this lamp/switch circuit board this is called ?? - I'm a bit lost looking in the manual for a part number. Then begs the question are these replaceable ? or should I be looking to try and repair my dodgy handy work by a professional if I have killed the circuit?
*borrowed pic of underside from the net for location (at work so unable to take pic of own machine) top pic mine showing the two lights out...
Shaming myself as everything else is working perfectly (and surprisingly !!) after 3 weekends on just changing the leds and rubbers ! You guys who do full shop outs are legends !!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

As someone mentioned earlier, there really aren't any critical electronics on that board to fry. Just a few diodes. You may have burnt up a diode or 2, which is an easy cheap fix, or may have a solder trace that needs repair. Either way, there's nothing expensive or difficult about any damage you may have done. If all else fails, and no one near you can fix it, I'll repair it for ya.

Edit: oh crap, you're in Australia.... that would be some crazy shipping cost for you, but the offer still stands

#8611 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Not sure why people think Titans are more bouncy. From my experience they're not. Their silicon is less bouncy than rubber. Especially the white rubbers. Titans give me better control. They also hold up better. Most guys I play with agree and they play all the time and are better than I am generally. Hard to keep up with these young bucks!

To add to that, Titan makes a low bounce flipper rubber version as well. Also, if anyone wants a really really low bounce flipper rubber, use superbands. They're dead as hell.

#8613 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

when installing color dmd do you remove the pcb light board? It doesnt seem there is enough clearance without touching the pcb board when mounting per the instructions. Does the ROM with the color DMD light those if removed?

For my installation, I did NOT have to alter the light bar below. My dmd was the LED version. The LCD version may differ.

#8615 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

thanks. yep im installing one of the older lcd versions. also where do you all get the clear speaker panel insert. just noticed the red tint as i was installing. thats not gonna work.

Got mine on Ebay. I believe the seller was Classic Arcades. Very happy with the quality and shipping speed.

1 month later
#8659 2 years ago

All right guys and gals, since my BSD already has a color DMD, and Pinsound board, I have decided to do a full teardown and restoration on it over the winter. This will be my 3rd machine to restore, and I find it quite fun. I already placed an order for a new playfield, rad cals, and a mirrored backglass. I'll probably grab a new plastic set as well. However, I can't seem to find a source for new ramps. Anyone have any ideas? Also, what other items are commonly worn out I should be looking for? Thanks!!

#8662 2 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:I think there was a ramp manufacturer looking at making the ramps. I got a set from a pinsider who made them, not sure if he has any more.
I have the mirrored backglass, it looks great.
I've fully restored two (both with RadCals). One I went so far as to completely rewire the playfield to remove all the hacks. I bought this set for all of the external hardare: https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=9&zenid=hqlm75i5h4vgaufhj9qnsbprm0
Be warned that the RadCals are a double-edged sword. They look nice but your cabinet better not have rounded over corners/edges, or the RadCals with hang over. They go right to the edge of the cabinet.
Getting a set of WPC replacement stickers is nice too. Got mine from flashinstinct
Rebuilding the pop bumpers and flippers is a good idea. Depending on the state of your wireforms you might want to powder coat those. Getting the village/castle painted is a nice upgrade.
I avoided the staple-down lamp sockets for the pop bumpers on the second restore I did since it's such a pain if you ever want to remove the bumpers.
https://modfatherpinball.com/products/bsd-custom-painted-village-plastics?_pos=11&_sid=ad060e955&_ss=r
I really recommend the repainted village/castle, they look awesome and a very reasonable price.
I also replaced most of the tarnished / worn fasteners.
I referred to @HEP BSD restores and albums to see how certain things went back together and just to oogle and get inspired.

All excellent information! Thank you. I've never worked with Rad Cals, so, fingers crossed. Lucky me, a previous owner already had all the village plastics painted, and added the decorative switch cover set. That's part of the reason it's such a shame the cab and playfield need attention. I'll get her fixed up!

Quoted from lrosent345:

I'm doing NBA right, then Corvette, then the coffin cover for EATPM, then Dracula.

Any idea on an estimated time frame? I've used your ramps on both a Comet, and Elvira ATPM. Great product!

2 weeks later
#8687 2 years ago

New Mirco playfield, RadCals, armor, Comet LEDs, plastics, Mirrored Backglass, Titan rubbers, Carlton Violet powder coat all in tha house!! Already scored a pinsound board and color DMD. What on earth could pimp cat Scribbles be up to???

#8689 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Glam Stoker’s Dracula!

Pin Kitten knows! Hey, how did your RadCal installs go on your other machines? Mine look a hair large like I'm going to have to trim them once installed. Did you make any cut outs around where the legs go or no? On decals, I usually use an exacto knife and cut away enough decal so they'll never touch the legs and wrinkle. How did you handle that?

#8695 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Good! I’ve now done Radcals on Fish Tales, TOTAN and am finishing CV. I will do TAF next. Each time I’ve learned something and had a slightly better result. In my experience, Radcals aren’t a perfect fit on every side (I can send some pics of the edges) and require some tolerance and possibly a slight trim. For the legs, Radcals are much more durable and won’t get wrinkled or altered from the leg pressure. But, you must install those metal leg protectors that are common on new pins now, with the tiny screws to hold them in place. That builds up the corner just enough to protect the Radcal from leg damage. I think Mantis and Pinball Life have them, as you probably know. If you prefer a perfect edge and original look, you probably want decals, although I feel decals are a bit harder to apply, and really require an empty cabinet to work with. Radcals are more durable and result in a glossy finish, and are a little easier to apply. They are still a lot of work to do them right, and you’ll need a dremel to create the bolt holes and cut out the shooter rod assembly hole. There may be other ways to do it, but a dremel worked best for me. Plus, you don’t need to lay the cab on its side to apply Radcals. Feel free to message me if I can be of any help to anyone.

As far as straight edges are concerned, I was thinking of applying the radcals so that the top and front line up nicely, leaving any excess on the bottom and back. The using painters tape, mask off the edges to be trimmed, and use a straight router bit. Just my initial idea. Any tips there? I do have a Dremel tool for the round holes.

#8696 2 years ago

Browsing back through the last few pages, it appears there are a number of us restoring BSD right now! Definitely a labor of love since we'll probably have more in the machine than it's worth when we're done But, it's worth it. It's such a fast, fun, brutal game.

#8716 2 years ago

Got the metal parts back from powder coat yesterday and reassembled the coin door. The color looks almost black in low light, but when the light hits it, it's full of blue and purple metallic flake. I know, to each their own, but I think it looks SEXY!!

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#8720 2 years ago
Quoted from Hans_Saris:

Thanks a lot Lloyd, believe I should take a closer look at switch #81 then? Kindest regards, Hans
[quoted image]

Yes, there is a switch (I think 81 according to your schematic) that the magnet activates when it is all the way to the left. If this switch doesn't activate, you get the problem you described. My machine did it as well. My switch just needed adjusting. It has lots of room to adjust.

2 weeks later
#8731 2 years ago

PDI has these that are pretty nice

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#8739 2 years ago
Quoted from McDoom:

Help with the multi-ball issues.
I’ll explain this the best way I know-how.
When I go into multi-ball mode, the game continues to load balls into the shooter lane and launches them into play continuously even if I drain. (basically multi ball doesn't end and won't time out).
My mist multi ball works as intended (carries ball across playfield) about 10% of the time.
Usually, when I go into mist multiball the balls just come down from the left lane and where ever else they are released from. 90% the ball doesn't travel across the playfeild.

First, does this behavior happen only on mist multiball? What about castle or coffin multiball?

#8741 2 years ago
Quoted from McDoom:

It happens on all multi-balls including mist

I'd start by running a test on the mist multiball from the menu. See if the game will perform the test correctly and note any errors. I just have a suspicion it's related to mist optics or switches. Not sure why, but thats where I'd start

#8744 2 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

It’s not counting balls correctly, Opto. Ball Through most likely.

Quoted from Grandnational007:

This right here.
Possibly in combination with shooter lane switch.
Switch edge test should tell you pretty quickly what it is. Good luck!

I agree it's not counting balls correctly. I'm wondering if the game is not sensing the captive ball in the mist lane.

#8759 2 years ago
Quoted from Fletcher:

Hi all, I picked up a BSD a while ago that I'm restoring. I am going to convert to LEDs. My understanding is that I need a updated rom chip with WPC LED ghost patch. I don't plan on buying a rom burner so wondering if there is a source for these?

Comet non ghosting leds is what I use. White in GI, color match on inserts.

1 week later
#8782 2 years ago
Quoted from s000m:

Hi Guys, bit of a wild punt, I own a BSD but the playfield isn't that great. I'm after a replacement one however the condition of it doesn't need to be mint.
My plan is to send the playfield off for professional repair without being without by beloved BSD to play.
If anyone has one on a wall or pulled from a trashed pin please let me know.
Cheers.

I actually have a pretty nice one that would be a wonderful restore candidate. I notice you're overseas though. Shipping would be a bitch!!

#8785 2 years ago

Edit : solved my issue

#8786 2 years ago

Well, shit. Wish I would have noticed this weeks ago when they showed up.... I love the installation and fitment, but one of the head decals has a distinctive purple tint to the background which should be black like the rest of the set. I've already contacted Mirco. I'm sure they'll make it right.

20220117_192115 (resized).jpg20220117_192115 (resized).jpg

#8791 2 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Well, shit. Wish I would have noticed this weeks ago when they showed up.... I love the installation and fitment, but one of the head decals has a distinctive purple tint to the background which should be black like the rest of the set. I've already contacted Mirco. I'm sure they'll make it right.
[quoted image]

So, I got a reply from Mirco. He says that's how the file is, he can't adjust it, and he has others in stock that are the same. He won't issue a partial refund, and said "send them back if you aren't happy". Seeing as I already applied the cabinet, that really isn't an option. He then said "when do you see both sides anyway"? Well, the head doesn't match the cab, so..... yeah. So, buyer beware. The one side of the head decal has a purpleish background, doesn't match, and that's just how it is. No corrections, no discounts.
20220117_192115 (resized).jpg20220117_192115 (resized).jpg

#8793 2 years ago
Quoted from s000m:

Is this the 'Radcals' from Mirco?

Yes

#8795 2 years ago
Quoted from s000m:

I Dodged a bullet with them then... thats dissapointing on the colour shift how does he not notice that and think its OK?
I was going to buy a Mirco playfield but went with a private restorer after the horror stories I read.
I spoke to CPR and they say they will be 100% making a BSD playfield this year for anyone interested.

Well, shit. Now I'm really worried. Because, guess what's next for me? I have a Mirco playfield I'll be putting in soon. I hope it fits. It looks to be high quality.

#8798 2 years ago
Quoted from s000m:

Been watching playfield swaps the task looks really long and involved. T-Nut installations look like quite a bit of work.
I would inspect the clear on yours and probably leave it if you haven't already to cure as much as possible for as long as you can.
I know some people had their clear come straight off..

HOLY SHIT.....

#8800 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I have a mirco playfield swapped into my Attack from Mars, and one is being swapped into my Twilight Zone. No issues. As for quality, I beat on my AFM, and it still looks great. No quality control problems. You're good.

That's reassuring to hear. Thank you.

#8801 2 years ago

Does anyone have a count on how many optic sets are used in BSD? I'm going to replace mine when I do my playfield swap. These guys.

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#8805 2 years ago
Quoted from dddanielll:

I just replaced the mist optos on mine which were 2 pairs plus the castle locks which are 3 pairs and I think there’s at least 2 more pairs for the video mode loop and the left ramp.

Quoted from roffels:

What about the long-throw opto for mist?
I think some of the poppers/upkicks use optos as well.

Lol, I knew it was a bunch, but man!! Maybe I'll just order about 10 sets and have spares

15
#8807 2 years ago

Well, the cab is coming along nicely. Here's a look at the good side of the RadCals. I'm thrilled with the powder coat color. It appears black at a glance, but when the light hits it right, it's full of purple and blue metallic flake. Very subtle and looks great with the new color scheme.

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#8810 2 years ago
Quoted from GoodManners:

Yeah - the powder coating looks good!
Do the cab protectors wrinkle that decal when you put the legs on?

No, they're RadCals, not decals. They're a rigid plastic laminate with adhesive backing. I imagine it would be very difficult to shift them.

#8818 2 years ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

The ole harbor freight transmission lift

Yes indeed!! That thing works like a champ!!! I love it. I can rotate and move the machine effortlessly as I work. I bought the smaller weight capacity model. The bigger one is overkill.

#8821 2 years ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

One bit of trivia about the radcals…the original decals don’t line up properly at the corners so the radcal front is ‘zoomed’ a bit so it lines up. But the Dracula logo was not repositioned so it doesn’t sit centered on the start button. You win some, you lose some…

I did indeed notice that the red dracula logo was enlarged on the radcal vs. The machine. I guess that explains it. No matter, I'm quite impressed with the gravity (besides the one head panel having a purple tinge to it).

#8846 2 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

My Mist multi-ball motor is pretty noisy. I’m wondering if there’s some maintenance I can do or maybe give it some oil. Anybody have recommendations.

I put a little silicone lubricant on mine. Both the motors and the plastic rod. I would strongly recommend that if you do it, DO NOT use wd40 or any type of oil. Use 100% silicone lube. It won't gum up or break down and get nasty. It did actually make my mechanism noticeably more quiet.

#8849 2 years ago
Quoted from poppapin:

Cool topper I haven't seen before! Who does that one?

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3 weeks later
10
#8872 2 years ago

I love knockers

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#8885 2 years ago

And so, it begins.....
Playfield swap is underway.

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#8888 2 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

I resisted color DMD for a long time really liking the red and thinking it was fitting for the title, but finally caved and installed. Definitely a necessary upgrade.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ohhhhh, definitely. It's necessary. 100% Now you need a CPR mirrored backglass

#8890 2 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Your old play field looks better than mine. I have some planking. I’ll have to try and swap play fields one day. This would be a good machine to try it on. I just don’t want to get stuck half way and mess it up.

Mine has raised inserts and mild planking all over the place. I do have a nice used playfield that came with the machine, but I opted for a new one from mirco. Enough work for tonight.

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#8891 2 years ago

Here's a couple better pics of the issues

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#8893 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I bought one and didn't care for it. When not lit, the reds were too orange.
I think the original looks way better.

Maybe you got a misprinted one? The reds on mine are a nice deep RED and the mirrored portions around the Dracula logo look stunning.

#8895 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinash:

With all this PF swap talk, does anyone have a spare good/decent condition used PF they would part with? PM me!

I have one. PM incoming. Not the one in my pics above, lol.

#8901 2 years ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Hi
I’m on with a Dracula, completed my cabinet, now due to start my playfield swop. Please can you give me any good advice/tips
Thankyou

Well, the best and easiest advice I can think of is take TONS of pictures. Take before pics from all angles. I usually start low on the playfield working 1 area at a time. Take MORE pictures! Sometimes I pull of 1 or 2 small pieces and take more pictures. Remember, these pictures will be ALL you have to reassemble everything. Also, I like to work 1 small area, for example the left sling, and put all the parts from there into a zip lock bag and label it. Then move to another small area and repeat. Take lots of pictures as you go. I like to start on the front and remove everything I can before going to the backside of the playfield. Once I'm ready for the back, I take more pictures. Then, I cut the wires feeding all the larger mechanism and coils like pop bumpers and put molex connectors on them. Lamp sockets I leave in tact. Then just repeat what you did up top. That's the basics. I can't say it enough, take tons and tons of pictures. I'm sure some other folks here have some other tips I'm not aware of.

#8916 2 years ago

Topside is torn down. Made some good progress on the bottom tonight. This machine has a SHITLOAD of mechs on the underside!!

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#8919 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Speaker question;
Currently I have the original speakers in my machine and appear to work fine which is great
My question is - is there a major benefit swapping these out to newer speakers ? Will it be a noticeable difference in sound ? I'm sure there's home stereos out there with speakers 50+ years old that sound also just fine !
I'm not sure I can justify dropping big $$ on specific pinball sets ie like pinsound speakers (not the pinsound board, just speakers) but do know from research these seem to be to go to sets for most pinheads (plus shipping to Australia get's crazy)
Will a cheaper car audio set up (2x5" and sub) give a better output than the 30 year old ones in there now ? Am also interested in getting a lighted speaker kit eventually so prepping for that as well with what I do
Are these a straight swap out ? I note there is a capacitor on the tweeter (apologies if that's a noobie question !) And does the tweeter cutout need enlarging ?
Cheers

I ordered a kit from Flipper Fidelity for mine. However, I can't listen to them yet because my game is torn apart. I can tell you that I was running a pinsound board on original speakers with an 8" external subwoofer and it sounded pretty impressive. We'll see if the new FF speakers step it up a notch.

#8930 2 years ago
Quoted from Grandnational007:

Not really BSD specific, but I get the "slightest" bit of ball hop from the transition to the guide to the left flipper on mine. This DOES make the game play a lot harder (not being able to spam the coffin ramp repeatedly reliably), but I would like to correct it.
I've tried loosening the screws for the guide and sliding the whole assembly "up" as mush as it will go, and tightening everything back down, but it eventually works its way back down, and the hop returns. I'm thinking maybe taking a couple tooth picks in the 3 or 4 screw holes, and using them as shims may do the trick? Any other ideas? (I really think the flipper bat playfield hole was drilled slightly off from the factory, but I'm not going down that worm hole over something like this, haha.)

Maybe a set of Titan low bounce flipper rubbers would do the trick? They're a bit thinner than normal flipper rubber. Could be an easy fix.

1 week later
#8958 2 years ago
Quoted from Moomert1:

Need some knowledge here as im still learning. I wanted to take a look at my batteries. It looks like my board has no battery holders? Yet my scores and settings are saved. What am I missing here?
[quoted image]

Someone at some point has installed an NVRAM chip. That or there's wires soldered on the back of the board going to a remote battery holder. Most likely NVRAM

#8961 2 years ago
Quoted from Moomert1:

Do NVRAM chips ever need to be replaced? If that time comes, is it as easy as pop the old one out and install a new one?

Unless the chip goes bad, no. Not to my knowledge. You're good to go. If it does need replacing at some point (very unlikely), it's probably just as you said. Pop old one out, put new one in. Some games do require the chip to be soldered in, but I don't THINK Dracula does. Someone else here may correct me if I'm wrong,

#8965 2 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

If someone has a serviceable playfield from a swap, I might be interested.

I have an SP playfield that came with my game when I bought it. The previous owner was going to have it cleared and put it in. I just bought a new Mirco instead.

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#8969 2 years ago
Quoted from lrosent345:

That's next on my list.

Son of a........ and I'm in the middle of a playfield swap right now. Do you have any rough eta?

#8980 2 years ago
Quoted from DarlingLuci:

How has your experience been with the micro bsd playfield? I need to swap my bsd eventually but concerned with some of the reports of bad micro playfields pooling and cracking after a few months in another thread here on pinside.

Well, so far, I'm still doing the playfield swap. I can say the clear coat is like glass, and thus far, the dimples on the back to mark drill holes are at least close. Many are dead on. This is my first time using a Mirco playfield, so I hope it holds up in the long haul. Previously I've done two playfield swaps using CPR playfields, and those guide dimples weren't even close. Some were a far as 1/4" off. The major holes and cutouts are dead on from both manufacturers. So, I can't really say how durable the playfield is, but I'm thrilled with the playfield based on appearance and fitment so far. I wasn't very happy with my RadCals I ordered at the same time due to color variations.

#8981 2 years ago

I finally had some spare time and made some progress on the bottom side. Had to hold off on the pop bumpers once I discovered the original metal yokes were broken. Of course that's a .99 cent part x3 that I don't have...

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#8987 2 years ago
Quoted from DarlingLuci:

Thanks for the feedback. Did you do the mirrored rad cals? I was looking at ordering both the playfield and mirrored rad cals in the next month or so.

I ordered the standard RadCals. 4 panels looked great, the blacks were black. On the 5th panel ( left side head ), the black background had a slight purple tinge to it. When I reached out to Mirco, he basically said sorry about your luck, no refunds, nothing he could do about it, have a crappy day. Lol. I got my money back through my credit card company in the end. I actually started a thread a while back if you want to see the pics.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/radcals-color-mismatch/page/2#post-6818297

#8988 2 years ago
Quoted from ClassicHornet:

Drac all finished, restored sun process; hand drawn decals, custom UV playfield toys, black with fleck powder coat etc etc, nickel plated everything, oh & I just broke the centre ramp [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome work!!

#9013 2 years ago

I made some more solid progress on the bottom side today. Almost ready for the wire harness to go back in.

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#9015 2 years ago
Quoted from ClassicHornet:

Did you get an answer ? My BSD is dead in the water until I get a centre ramp.

No sir, I suppose I should probably PM him.

#9022 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Recently my BSD started exhibiting some strange behavior, with a castle lock 1 opto and left ramp entry opto opening and closing repeatedly during test and during a game, and the auto launch coil is repeatedly firing. These hadn’t been any issue prior until all of them were. Anyone think they know what it might be? I had a diode go out in the right sling, but that was replaced and fixed it. After that, these new things appeared. Any help is appreciated!

The left entry opto, and castle opto share a row on the switch matrix, but the auto launch and right sling have nothing in common with those

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#9024 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Thanks, Scribbles. I’ll check the connections and maybe U20? I wonder what would cause the auto-launch to randomly fire. Even when the game is sitting idle in attract mode, it fires. So odd. For the first 2 years this game was 100% glitchless.

If it's firing while sitting idle, it's probably thinking there's a ball in the shooter lane and it's trying to clear it. I'd carefully inspect the entire area where you were working. I bet it turns out to be something simple.

#9026 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I will do that, thanks. By way of history, I had a diode fail on a slingshot switch. That was replaced, and the sling works fine. It was immediately after that these new glitches appeared. Something must have happened. If a diode is the wrong value, or backward, could it have caused damage to the board on power up?

Value on a diode isn't critical like a resistor. It just needs to be able to handle the current that flows through it (which isn't much in this situation). The diode just allows current to flow in one direction, and not the other. Honestly, I'm not sure what would happen if it were backwards. You could compare it's orientation with the left sling to double check. But, I doubt the sling would work if it were backwards. I'm no expert by any means, I just have enough basic electronics knowledge to mess crap up!

#9027 2 years ago

Slowly getting the beast back together.

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#9030 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

That pf is like a mirror!

Indeed it is! I have to say, I'm impressed by this Mirco playfield. It's my first experience with one. Re assembly has went very quickly due in large part to the pre drilled dimples being almost exactly where they need to be. I've only run into a few instances where I had to relocate the hole for a mechanism or post. I should clarify I'm not talking about major holes, just dimple marks that guide me as to where screws go and such. The two CPR playfields I've done were nice playfields, but almost every single dimple was incorrect. Some by as much as 3/16". That's not a criticism, just a fact, and their website says that's to be expected.

Quoted from ClassicHornet:

Any word on those new Ramps ?

Yes, I emailed Starship, and was told, "no time soon". Along with some explanation as to.why. Very nice folks, but also very busy. So, if you're waiting on some, you're in for a looong wait.

1 week later
#9043 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

The problem with my BSD I described above all appeared suddenly after a minor repair to a board. I couldn’t figure out why several things would suddenly go wrong. I went back to the board and found the cause. I love when the solution is easy.
[quoted image]

That will do it!! I just fired mine up after a playfield swap and had no GI, and a couple errors. Turns out I had a ribbon cable plugged in misaligned Now I gotta figure out why my left mist gate solenoid isn't firing, and I'm getting a right ramp up error even though it works in coil test.....

#9068 2 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Where’s the best place to pick up pinsound? Should I just order directly from their site?

Quoted from Pinkitten:

That’s what I did. The pricing seemed identical whether you buy from their site or from Pinside marketplace. But I admit I didn’t check any other sources.

That's what I did as well, and I paid the extra 20 or so dollars to have the board pre loaded with the soundtracks. I hate dealing with computers.

#9075 2 years ago
Quoted from Moomert1:

Anyone else have any advice they can offer? I reseated plugs J113, J115, J120, J121 and then plugged back in. Fuses F106, F107, F108, F109, F110 look good. Fuse 115 looks a little wonky but I has told 115 doesn't control the GI. I did notice the 3 GI bulbs listed in my previous post are daisy chained to about 4 or 5 other bulbs. Those too are not lighting. All wiring to each bulb looks secure. I don't see any broken wires. I checked all plugs on the board. Didn't see any burned plugs.
I am at a complete loss....

If there's a break point in the GI, and it sounds like there is, go to the last point in the wiring where the GI is working and inspect carefully. Reflow the solder, and replace the bulb.

2 weeks later
#9087 2 years ago
Quoted from Moomert1:

Anyone else have any advice they can offer? I reseated plugs J113, J115, J120, J121 and then plugged back in. Fuses F106, F107, F108, F109, F110 look good. Fuse 115 looks a little wonky but I has told 115 doesn't control the GI. I did notice the 3 GI bulbs listed in my previous post are daisy chained to about 4 or 5 other bulbs. Those too are not lighting. All wiring to each bulb looks secure. I don't see any broken wires. I checked all plugs on the board. Didn't see any burned plugs.
I am at a complete loss....

Perhaps a bad bulb socket? Try jumping the gi power from the last working bulb in the chain over the first non working bulb to the second. In other words bypass the first non working bulb. See if the rest of your gi comes back on.

#9092 2 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

My pinsound arrived today ! Installation was a breeze . Question though, while the game is at idle ( on but not being played) there is a noticeable hissing sound coming from the speakers ( which are factory stock at the moment) is this normal? Also when going though the game adjustments, the sound is very low. The game volume is currently on 8.
[quoted image]

I don't hear any hiss through mine. I had stock speakers when I installed the Pinsound, and now have flipper fidelity setup with an external sub. No hissing either way. I wish I had some insight to offer, but I'm not sure why that would be happening.

#9096 2 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all! I'm still trying to figure out this little issue below. I did a switch test and the ramp entry optos were registering. It clearly recognizes the ball going up the left ramp and gives me the first half of the graphic / sound, but it doesn't count the ramp toward bats or give the count etc.
Here is a video of it: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gwy1sb2x7sm6vfc/IMG_2870.MOV?dl=0
Many thanks if anyone else has any other thoughts!
G
[quoted image]

Quoted from gweempose:

There are actually two ramp switches. The entrance switch is an opto, and the exit switch is a micro switch (upper right corner). My guess is that the problem is with the exit switch. If it isn't registering at all in switch test, it could be broken, or it could just be a connection issue. Check the wires and the connector under the playfield. If the switch is registering during switch test but not during a game, the actuator may need to be slightly adjusted. Try tweaking it and then testing it with a ball.

I would also suggest the exit switch is most likely the issue. Also make sure the exit switch doesn't simply need adjusting.

10
#9102 2 years ago

I also posted this in the cats and pinballs thread, but I figured it's relevant here also. As if BSD isn't difficult enough, I have to deal with this little hellspawn lurking in the shadows, then attacking the balls!

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2 weeks later
#9119 1 year ago
Quoted from System-J:

Nice, thanks. So all titan clear with blue titan flipper bands too. Clean look.

I'm using titan red bands. Love em.

1 week later
#9136 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

"The debt that all Dracs pay." In my case, I did the following:
1. Scanned the playfield in that area on a flatbed scanner at high DPI
2. Cleaned up the missing artwork in photoshop
3. Printed out the repaired artwork onto a waterslide decal
4. Filled in the playfield divot with successive layers of automotive clear coat, sanded flat
5. Applied the decal from step 3
6. Final clear coats on top of the entire playfield
7. Mylar "cushion" strip applied to the impact zone to hopefully ward off future damage
It's a long process.

This is an excellent suggestion. May I offer a "down and dirty" alternative. The spot in question is barely noticeable when the machine is set up for playing. If it's not a "showpiece" or restored machine, I'd clean the area up as best you can, touch up said area with paints, markers, etc just to hide the bare wood. Clear it, and cover with mylar. It it the best way? Hell no. Is it suitable for a players machine to halt further damage? Yup. It's just a matter of how much time and effort you want to put into it.

#9141 1 year ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

Wow, thanks for the great advice guys.
This is a permanent stay and a players condition that'll be in my cellar till I'm gone. I'm leaning much more towards the 'down and dirty' method as it's not a visible area like was said.
Clearcoating sounds daunting, I'm much more open to trying to contain it to that corner.
Do you mean clear in a can and spray a ton of layers until it's flush?
I'm in the middle of tearing down the whole top side so I'd like to know what to order soon.

Down and dirty method would be some carefully brushed on clear. Maybe a small careful sanding once cured. And I'd definitely put a piece of mylar down once done. I just did a playfield swap on mine, and I put a large strip of mylar down in that whole area.

#9154 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Anyone know why these aren't being made anymore? I am certain if a run was done it'd sell - I'd buy them

My game had a full set on it when I bought it. I love them and think they look amazing.

Quoted from roffels:

Dracula is hard enough, wouldn't obstructing sight lines to the ball make it even harder?

Honestly, they don't block much of anything. Just a hair of the left ramp, and a bit of the coffin ramp wireform. Looks worse in pictures than in person.

#9169 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

When I put in some new plastic ramps, I realized that they needed to be molded a bit to avoid rejects on clean shots at that spot. I used a hot air gun to soften it slightly and got the lip of the ramp level with the end of the entrance ramp. Check your ramp entrance and see if you have a slight rise there. There might be a way to adjust it mechanically, too.

This 100% when I did my playfield swap I had to do the exact same thing.

1 week later
#9173 1 year ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Help please !!
Any idea where these two green wires are to be located ?
Centre targets have stopped working (lights all ok, just the target recognition) so suspect it's these wires that have come off....bit of solder on the one side
Do they affix to this bank ??
Cheers
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you havnt figured out yet, I can have a look at my machine this evening when I get home from work.

#9175 1 year ago
Quoted from paulie484:

That would be great, thankyou!

Here you go. Hope this helps. They do indeed attach to the right leaf switch.

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#9177 1 year ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Brilliant !! Funny how the legacy bend of a wire kind of gives you the clues where it's supposed to be !!
That's perfect...thank you !

You are certainly welcome I try to help out when and where I can.

#9179 1 year ago

So, my wife says "something is wrong with Dracula " I go to play a test game. Nothing is wrong, she's not really pinball savvy. She missed the Mist multiball and thought since it stayed in the left gate, something was wrong. Anyway.... my "Quick test game" turned into this!! My personal high score.

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#9181 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Scribbles - nice score. So did she have to stand there and watch you prove there was nothing wrong with the machine for the entire game? Mine would have just left.

She actually stayed and watched! Lol. She truly enjoys playing, but just isn't familiar with rules or game function sometimes.

#9196 1 year ago
Quoted from Beechwood:

I have BSD next to my EatPM. Wife loves Elvira. I like both. Sometimes you want to change up the difficulty.
p.s. I have a Halloween CE on order as well

Funny you should mention that......

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#9199 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Where can I find that Dracula topper?

It came with the machine. The guy I bought it from said he made it using licensed figures and the box is stained wood. During certain modes its back-lit blue. And when dracula speaks, there's a red LED strip inside that shines through the "D" in dracula. I'm not a topper enthusiast, but this one's pretty damn cool. He did a good job. And we recently redid the drop ceiling and painted the walls. Hence the difference in pics.

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#9201 1 year ago
Quoted from Beechwood:

That Elvira though... Nice! Makes me want to restore mine.

Thanks! It's a relatively easy machine to restore. Plus CPR has all the ramps, plastics, playfield, backglass, etc... Just a matter of time and effort.

1 week later
#9220 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Didn’t think of that thanks! Been going through 44 pages of Topic Gallery lol

On the top pic, I assume you're referring to the threaded post that sticks up pretty high? That's correct. The coffin ramp wireform bolts onto that. It still sticks up a bit. I put a 7/16" od rubber on top of mine to dress it up a bit.

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#9225 1 year ago
Quoted from nasco62:

This will help had the same problem when putting mine back together, got these from Hep!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

AWESOME!! Wish I had that when reassembling mine!

#9226 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Awesome I’ll try these cheers!
Looks like I’ll still have to figure out the hex posts under the village, on top of the mist gate and the 2 on top of the right slingshot

On my machine, someone had rigged these entire areas you're referring to with long flathead machine screws and stop nuts. I had nothing to go on but the shop pics here on pinside. I ended up ordering a good assortment of various length hex posts and standoffs. Lots of them actually. I then kept messing around with it, until I figured out what I believe to be correct. Now I have alot of leftover hex posts, which has already come in handy.

1 week later
#9245 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Silly question
How do you bolt the main ramp down to the rear posts with the graveyard on there?
Or do you remove the graveyard from the ramp first?

Yeah, it's a jacked up design. I pulled it off along with the ramp if I remember correctly.

2 weeks later
#9252 1 year ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Asking for a friend: would anyone know of a playfield overlay for Dracula ?
I know of Mirco playfield, but I'd prefer to stay away given their history
regards

I don't think anyone makes a hardtop overlay if that's what you're asking about. However, for what it's worth, I just ordered and installed a Mirco playfield about 4 or so months ago, and it was flawless. Looks and plays beautifully.

#9260 1 year ago
Quoted from LeeChaolan:

Months later I'm finally back and I got my BSD up and running...other than one last error "magnet unload error." Running the test in the menu shoots several balls down the trough and runs the magnet back and forth. I am able to see both optos with my cell phone camera on either side. I'm noticing its not kicking a ball into either mist hole during the test, and there isn't one sitting in there by default. Could my machine be down a ball or does it sound like opto alignment/board issues?

When I had "magnet unload error", it was simply a pressure switch on the left side that needed adjustment. When the magnet goes to the left, it depresses a switch at the end of its run. My switch was loose. I adjusted it and tightened it down. No issues since. Maybe that will help you. Maybe not.

#9279 1 year ago
Quoted from galaga50:

When the ball goes into the mystery hole, if its really slow, it gets stuck in the subway. Not sure but I think its getting caught on a gap where the subway starts because a good shake gets it moving.
Any ideas on how to stop it getting stuck?

My BSD was the same. Have a look at the metal box underneath the mystery scoop. The ball comes in so fast and hard that through the years, the metal assembly below had created a divot or low spot in the metal that could stop the ball from rolling out. A shake would free it up. I replaced this metal box when I did my playfield swap, and problem solved. Marco has them in stock. I bet that's your problem.

Screenshot_20220801-204228_Brave (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220801-204228_Brave (resized).jpg
#9293 1 year ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

Threw the Pinsound Plus sound board in my ol' BSD. Thing Rips!! I got it playing faster than a new stern

Heck yeah the pinsound is worth every penny in this machine. Turns a very mediocre audio track into an immersive game experience.

1 week later
#9312 1 year ago
Quoted from Asylum:

Getting back in the club today. Very excited! Has the typical fade on the cabinet. Any opinions on the best place to get a full cabinet decal set from? Micro? Classic Arcades? I appreciate the help.

I put RadCals from Mirco on mine. Beware though the black background on the left side head panel had a slight purple tint to it. Mirco refused to make it right. You can't tell in a lineup anyway, but it's disappointing. Other than that, the RadCals look freaking amazing!

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#9315 1 year ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

Did you take off the rails to install? Or did you just slap it on like they say you can without really having to prep the cab?

I had the rails off for powder coating anyway. It was a complete teardown and rebuild. I've never tried it with rails on, but I can see how it would work.

3 weeks later
#9365 1 year ago
Quoted from LeeChaolan:

Is BSD supposed to have a pole or something to hold the playfield up ? Mine doesn't stay upright unless you hold it , and it makes it very difficult to work on as you can imagine! Here's a shot of what it looks like now.
[quoted image]

You're completely off of the mounting/lift system. Get an extra set of strong hands (or 2) and be prepared for some fun trying to get it mounted back up. Dracula is a particularly heavy playfield when populated.

#9377 1 year ago

Looks correct to me regarding the mounts. Here's mine for reference. My coffin does touch the glass, but I assumed it was because it's an aftermarket mod coffin. Villages clear the glass no problem.

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#9378 1 year ago

Does your game play correctly other than the glass being off?

#9380 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Yes plays fine just a little slower being 5.9 degrees maximum, though I think that’s unrelated to the playfield tightness under the glass
I guess having the thickness of the clearcoat, plus the coffin Morpheus mod makes an extra tight fit?

My coffin is also the Morpheus I believe. At one point, I removed the screw from the top of the coffin altogether for extra clearance. I've since replaced it with a low profile screw. It does touch, but not by much. If that's all that's touching, I think that's as good as it may get?

#9401 1 year ago

I'm glad you have it together and playing, but I agree with Beechwood, something isn't 100% right. You should be able to achieve 6.5° or more with standard leg levelers. It's so frustrating when these weird things happen.

#9411 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Still having problems with this game, it is literally the most difficult restore I’ve done
The ball doesn’t register on the mystery hole popper opto unless I give the machine a shake
Is the subway supposed to sit like the picture below where the plastic ramp sits above the metal bracket for the opto? Can someone check please?
[quoted image]

It should definitely be like the picture above. Ask me how I know

And again, I think Beechwood may be onto something.

#9416 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Mine is the opposite of your pic and started happening after I jacked the back legs up with 4” levellers
So should the subway sit above the metal ball holder bracket or below?

I just visually verified, my subway is like yours. Which makes sense because the ball rolls down the subway, and into the popper. The ball shouldn't need to hop over the metal plate into the hopper. I had mine backwards and had to switch it.

#9417 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

So after all of this, I still have the issue! - I think I know what it is though, but I'm not sure why it's happening.
The magnet under the playfield is energizing during the magnet load/unload on startup.
##From a fresh startup (ball in right pocket)##
Gate opens and releases ball>Ball get put into shooter lane>ramp lifts>right pocket loaded>Magnet kicks on>gate opens and dumps ball (this repeats 3-4 times and it wont attempt to load after that) During this there are times where a ball isn't making it's way to the shooter lane and it attempts magnet load a ball that isn't there.
##From a fresh startup (ball in left pocket)##
No issues, game starts as normal, mist multiball works (direction is left to right obviously but it works fine)
I have no idea why the magnet is energizing like this, if I recall the magnet usually slides around during initial bootup of the game. It just feels like the whole sequence is "off" somehow which is causing this...

Can you take a picture of your right gate with the ball loaded and resting please? Post it. I may have an idea.

You shouldn't have a magnet load/unload test every time you turn the game on.

#9419 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohm:

I do.
I used to have to cycle through the errors then back out of the main menu, the game would cycle the magnet and reload the ball but it would play normal from that point on. I replaced the 10 opto board (bad capacitor) and that lessened the amount of errors to just a magnet unload error but I no longer have to open the coin door to cycle through them. I just hit start and it plays normal.
TL;DR - look at and possibly fix or replace your 10 opto board

I'm not sure why you quoted me there, or what you're getting at. Yes, the opto board can be an issue. All I was saying is that a magnet load/unload cycle isn't normal every time you turn the game on.

#9423 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

I appreciate the help guys no worries. Here is a video that should help show things better than I can explain.

Bohm may be correct. The opto boards are known to be flaky. I'd reseat all the connections on that. Also check all the trough switches. It's almost as if the game is searching for a missing ball. I assume there's no credit dot to point you in any direction?

#9425 1 year ago

Also, when I rebuilt my game, there was a piece of foam tape a previous owner had stuck on the ball guide for the ball to rest on. I thought it was an odd thing to do and removed it. Well, after my reassembly, I was having issues with the long mist optic. Come to find out, that foam tape was there to position the ball a little higher in the right trough and fully block the optic. I replaced the tape and my issue went away. It's just 1/4" foam weather stripping from the hardware store.

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#9445 1 year ago

I have that one on my machine along with the target decals. Good stuff. Looks great on the machine

#9453 1 year ago

Original 15411s in my machine. It flips

Quoted from ryanwanger:

What is everyone here doing for flipper coils? I ask because my flippers, which have been rebuilt recently (and had new coils installed within the last few years because the previous ones were a little melty), suck. I can hit the left ramp no problem in the first few flips of the first game, but it quickly becomes almost impossible, with the ball barely able to make it on a perfect shot, if at all.
Tonight I finally opened it up right after a frustrating game, and sure enough, the coils are really hot to the touch, particularly the right flipper coil (and the flipper plungers are even hotter).
I'm using FL-15411 from Pincoil.
Every time I see one of these on location, I play it for comparison, and they all have much stronger flips than mine. What gives?
Other information: pitch is at 6.5 degrees, and both EOS switches are working (though that shouldn't matter for the issue at hand for this generation of game).

Original Williams 15411s in my machine. It flips strong no matter how long I play it.

2 weeks later
#9481 1 year ago
Quoted from ieure:

The mist optos on my BSD failed. I got replacements, but it seems like I have to tear down a ton of the PF to get at them Is there an easier way to replace these things?

It's not quite as bad as it seems. I assume you're referring to the 2 sets of pocket optos and the long range opto. Just remove the ramps and plastics on both sides, the village, and castle, some wireforms..... actually, yeah it is a pain in the butt. Lol. However, it could be worse. No easy way I'm aware of. Just gotta take lots of pictures and pay attention.

2 weeks later
#9500 1 year ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

***** Pinsound owners *****
So I’m redoing all sounds and music to one of my faves… just started late last night..
If you haven’t seen my “Epic” mixes for The Shadow or Johnny Mnemonic check out the vids below.. I wanted to make BSD have an actual Horror score… so here is a teaser of some music only that I’m working on implementing in the game.. again.. just started.. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the mix by Hazzard off Pinsounds website.. but I’m going for something different here and I love having options. Any kind of input is greatly appreciated as well. If there is any interest in my other games scores… just DM me and I’ll send you the download!
BSD teaser:
The Shadow:
Johnny Mnemonic:

Hazzard will be tough to beat. I'm excited to see what you come up with! I'd keep the kettle drum pop bumper sounds.

3 weeks later
#9540 1 year ago
Quoted from ImNotNorm:

Will be joining the club in the next few weeks.
Looking forward to developing some Stockholm syndrome as a side effect of ownership.

For what it's worth. Mine has been pretty much trouble free. You gotta get the pinsound board and run the Hazard soundtrack asap, it's very literally a game changer. Congrats!

#9543 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Pinsound is a must on BSD! But I think you mean hazards mix? I’d recommend davebarts especially the Lucy version imo.

Yes, Hazard! My bad. Post corrected.

#9547 1 year ago
Quoted from ImNotNorm:

Thinking down the road in terms of my BSD ownership and looking at repro playfields. Specifically Mirco because I don't think there are any other reproductions for purchase elsewhere.
Just wondering if some BSD owners can help me out with some knowledge or first hand experience from Mirco or other repros that may be available. (Assuming NOS is extinct)
Thanks

Just put a Mirco in mine a few months back. Beautiful playfield. Glassy smooth. All major holes were of course correct and the dimples were pretty close. Only hiccup I recall was having to use a dremel tool to "deepen" a recessed area on the topside where the long range optos mount. I think that's where it was.... I'm very happy with the quality.
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#9553 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

I hope your topcoat does not peel away on that Mirco.

I have zero concerns about that. I'm aware he had some sort of adhesion issue at some point in the past. I'm also aware that he's a complete asshead if you have any customer service issues (I know that firsthand). However, many many other pinside members reassured me on the quality of their Mirco playfields. If this one does bugger up at some point, I guess I'll look into a new old stock.

#9555 1 year ago
Quoted from ultimategameroom:

BSD club members. What were the two Mfg of playfields installed new in BSD at the factory?
What were the differences? What is an original like the one pictured worth?
I purchased my BSD machine when I first started collecting in the mid 1990’s. It is still my favorite machine. I purchased this playfield a few years later. I’ve had it hanging on the wall since then.
[quoted image][quoted image]

SP is sun process I believe. That's supposed to be the better of the 2. That's the extent of my knowledge though.

#9567 1 year ago
Quoted from Pbgixxer:

Had some work completed on the lockdown bar. Just need to have it chromed.
[quoted image]

Omg.... that looks awesome. I want one

#9574 1 year ago
Quoted from ImNotNorm:

Are there any mods that can be suggested for BSD? Not tacky trinkets or action figure type mods.
I'm thinking color DMD, invisiglass and drac mod to replace the Ron Jeremy. But apparently the drac mod is unobtanium.
I saw some torches for the coffin that looked neat. (Mezelmods)
Would appreciate any input.

Pinsound board, small sobwoofer, and color DMD would be my first priority starting from scratch. After that, hand painted village, graveyard, and castle look great. Followed by the decorative switch covers (I forget who made them) and the flickering tombstone lights. Of course the coffin mod is nice also.

#9590 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I had been dealing with an issue for about 6 months or more of randomly firing optos/switches. I had a tech look at it and posted the prob here. Over in the TZ thread, someone mentioned their auto plunge coil would randomly fire in attract mode, which my BSD was doing. I assumed it was a board issue, and I tried swapping nearly all the boards in the backbox to no avail. In the TZ thread they suggested an opto board might be the problem. I finally looked at mine on BSD under the pf, and found this…
Replaced it with a new opto board today from Pinball Life and all issues resolved!
[quoted image]

Good to know! I think I've heard a coil randomly firing occasionally in attract mode on mine.

#9611 1 year ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Just a little update on this MIST journey...
Pinball guardian angel sulli10 really came to my rescue and helped walk me through it.
First, we tested the optos were working, by blocking them with my hand. The switch activated, so we knew the optos were working.
Next, we tried testing the magnet by placing the ball on the moving magnet as it was going across the playfield in test mode. The ball dropped right away, so it seemed like the magnet wasn't getting power. Next we checked the fuses at the power driver board. There was some corrosion on F103 and F102. I switched them both out. Both had continuity. MIST still not working.
Next, we unplugged J107 and J103 and replugged, then did the same with A -16697-1, J1 & J2.
Taking a closer look at the magnet wire, I put some electrical tape on some exposed areas and noticed a loose black wire that was meant to go in the white connector pictured. That was the culprit. I tried jamming it in as a temporary solution and that fixed MIST!
The black wire is still getting some resistance and comes out if I don't wrap it with electrical tape. That seems to be holding for now but it sounds like I'll have to re pin / replace the connector. So that'll be the next challenge!
Thanks again Sully for all the amazing help! G[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Thanks for sharing. I have a similar issue and will need to dive into it soon.

Must be a common issue. My BSD had some work done at that very same connector when I took possession of it. I redid both sides of the junction when I did a playfield swap. BUT, someone had obviously had issues there before me.

1 week later
#9666 1 year ago
Quoted from ImNotNorm:

Yea it's acting up then.
Thanks for all the responses guys!

On the left side of the magnet mechanism under the playfield, there's a pressure switch that the magnet assembly pushes when it gets all the way left. This tells the motor to stop spinning and stops the cart. My pressure switch was loose, and it caused a "magnet unload" error and other mist function issues. Once I tightened and adjusted that switch, everything worked like a charm. Maybe have a look at that. May help, May not.

#9688 1 year ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

What’s the correct operation for the drop target in back? I cleaned my game up and now when a ball hits it on the plung it usually Continues on and goes in the hole behind the target. Prior to cleaning it would usually bounce off target and go through the rollovers down to the pops, thanks

The target should stay up to keep the ball dropping into the pops. The target doesn't stay down until until you spell out "video" on the right side. Then, a clean shot to the right lane should orbit around, roll over the lowered drop target and start video mode.

I think there may be a few operational exceptions to this behavior, but most of the time, it works as described above

#9693 1 year ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

So if you hit the skill shot it will go behind the standup up and missed skill shots feed down to the pops?

Mine feeds back to the pops regardless of whether you hit the skill shot or not. The only time the target stays down, is the final hit to spell "video". Then you hit video, roll over the lowered stand up to start video mode

1 week later
#9736 1 year ago
Quoted from poppapin:

If someone offered 15K for mine, I'm sorry, would have to sell. It's just pinball!!

I love my BSD. Tons of time and money in it. New playfield, color matched LEDs, CPR mirrored backglass, new plastics, pinsound board, Rad Cals, upgraded speakers, custom topper, beautiful Carlton purple powder coat, etc, etc, etc.... But yeah, 15k offer? It's gone in a heartbeat. Lol.

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#9761 1 year ago
Quoted from blazingsaddlz:

BSD is my first game, and it will never leave. My machine is a hand me down from my family, and was most likely routed. Playfield has some planking, but since the rest of the machine isn't perfect, it really doesn't bother me. Anyway, my wife is also sentimental to this machine, and she saw an ad here for a playfield, and she wants me to try a playfield swap.
I've seen multiple posts here of people performing swaps, and some of the snags that can arise with doing a playfield swap. I've never done one before, but I'm no stranger to troubleshooting. I really like the idea of making the machine that I have look and shoot great, but I'm intimidated by the work it would entail.
Does anyone have words of caution before I make a playfield purchase?
Also, any extra parts that I should have on hand?

I've done 4 playfield swaps now, and BSD was the toughest by far. As mentioned earlier, there are a whole lot of coils and mechs to deal with. Also a boat load of optos. I think I took about 300 pics when I did mine and still hit a few snags on reassembly. And, also mentioned earlier, for the love of God, pay attention to the height of the support posts towards the back of the playfield. There are quite a few of them and some are very similar in size. It's easy to put one in the wrong place.

Another thought. If your ramps are in need of replacement, definitely wait on the playfield swap. Rumor has it that replacement ramps are being worked on.

#9788 1 year ago

I'll add my vote for the LED version. I have a few LCD, and a few LED in various games, and the LED looks better in my opinion.

#9823 1 year ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

I changed mine to regular after running lightning flippers for 10 years... Barry Oursler even said he didn't design the game with lightning flippers... That was the game changer for me.

For real? Barry actually said that? I might consider standard flippers if that's how the game was originally designed.

#9828 1 year ago

Ok, I knew about lightning flippers being added to increase revenue, but I figured the game was designed with that in mind. Interesting. My understanding is that Fish Tales was indeed designed for its lightning flippers.

#9832 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

I thought lightning and standard flipper bats were the same length. Is standard longer?

1/8" shorter. So 2 flippers means a 1/4" wider gap total.

#9833 1 year ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

No game was designed around LFs. All were installed for OPs benefits only.

Good to know

#9847 1 year ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Hey all -- I'm getting that weak-ish plunger action some people have described -- not enough juice to hit the skill shots etc... I'm going to replace the spring but just checking this is what the shooter tip is supposed to look like? looks a little bare so thought I'd check. Thanks! G
[quoted image]

Definitely have a look at the plunger and coil sleeve. That's most likely the culprit

1 week later
#9898 1 year ago
Quoted from amphicar4fun:

I already removed and reset all cabling at the MPU, yhe issue does not look to be there. Another strange think that make me believe that the issue is somewhere under the PF, is that sometimes when the issue is happening, when I basculate the PF up, even though the magnet is not touching the left switch, it starts registering like crazy. I already checked both switches, adjusted, measured both diodes, but I'll install 2 new diodes on the switches just in case. Any other thoughts? Thanks.

Bad switch??

Edit: oops, overlooked you saying you checked the switch. Still may be worth replacing if you have one on hand.

2 weeks later
#9912 1 year ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

So I bought a clear speaker panel on Ebay from ClassicArcade and received this....Is that normal that the speaker holes are much bigger than originals?
3.3/4" on my original and 4.5" on the new one.
[quoted image]

No, that's not cut properly. I'd contact them asap. Here's a picture of mine. Holes are 3-3/4". Also from classic arcades on Ebay. I'm very happy with mine.

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#9938 1 year ago
Quoted from Engine09:

Yeah, lots of fun, my house is full of pinball machines.
Just a purist. It's hard enough keeping these pins running properly without fixing all the issues that mods cause and not to mention the money spent. I'd rather spend that money on replacing ramps, cracked plastic or maybe even a playfield. Yep, any LEDs I find go straight in the garbage, color LEDs get thrown with much more enthusiasm.

Just to play devils advocate a bit, incandescent bulbs burn out with some degree of regularity and need to be replaced. Heat buildup from incandescents sometimes causes damage that needs repairs. Warped plastics, damaged boards and connectors. LEDs do have their benefits when done tastefully. I agree that colored LEDs in the GI are a huge no no.

3 weeks later
#9986 1 year ago
Quoted from PBlank:

Well now it’s official. My BSD arrived yesterday. From a fellow Pinsider also! I’m in love.[quoted image]

Nice!! Looks like a super clean example! How much was it? I hope not 30 MILLIOOOOONNNNNN!!!

2 weeks later
#10020 1 year ago
Quoted from data_eastside:

I'm having an issue with the mist multiball lock randomly releasing balls during gameplay (it only does this when the ball is behind the upper right gate) and give me a free extra ball in play. It will release the ball into play and then immediately plunge and lock another ball behind the mist gate. It doesn't happen during mist multiball it just happens randomly. Mist multiball plays fine too. I tested the magnet in the test menu and it didn't seem to have any errors. Has anyone dealt with a similar problem that they were able to resolve? I looked through the forums and couldn't find anything about this problem

Almost certainly the optics

#10028 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Don't know what rules changes you're referring to but I'd tell you to put video mode on hard. Way more fun and challenging.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

Agree. Video mode is so much more fun on hard!

Mine is on default I believe. First round is a gimme. Second round requires attention. Third round is frantic. Fourth round is insane. Never tried further than that. What does the difficult setting change?

1 week later
#10052 1 year ago
Quoted from Cariba:

Does anyone have any of the '06 McFarlane set for sale, I am just looking for the creates/boxes to do my own DIY coffin mod.
Thanks,[quoted image]

A previous owner used those figures to make a custom topper for my machine. It looks pretty slick. The DRACULA lettering lights up red from inside the box when Drac speaks!

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#10072 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Considering restoring my cab with these alternate decals and deep blood red powder. Should take me a couple weeks once the decals arrive. Gotta strip and sand the cabinet. Big cab conversion!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I like those decals. As far as the color, I like the leg pictured. The coin door is a bit too bright IMO. Drac needs to be dark for sure. I went with RadCals, and the powder color is Carlton Purple. It appears almost gloss black as seen in first pic. But when the light hits it just right......see second pic.

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1 week later
#10085 1 year ago

My BSD already had the 3 Medisinyl pieces installed when I got it (non LED verison). I had no idea what they were or who made them at the time. They look great and aren't going anywhere!

1 week later
#10121 1 year ago

Had a very decent game this evening. Finally Reclaimed my GC score from a friend who visited and got lucky after a few games.

20230422_184919 (resized).jpg20230422_184919 (resized).jpg
#10126 12 months ago
Quoted from Cariba:

All,
I recall reading a post where BSD owner upgraded to Pinsound system, and tried to use original speakers but they were wired in Mono and didnt work.
Not sure if we re wired or got new speakers that plug and play in stereo etc, Ill see if I can find this post.
In meantime I am considering adding Pinsound and wanted to know if everting that did:
1) did you replace the OG speakers? if so why? (I know OG has only one mid, woofer and one tweeter)
2) IF you have a shaker system too, where did you install the board and shaker itself and what trigger the shakes for your settings? Is it hard to change the shaker settings?
3) there is no issue whatsoever to using shaker system on BSD, given the magnet mist ball etc? does anyone have shaker on while mist ball is traveling/on?
4) anyone use an extrenal sub woofer box? any issues with mist ball and base/shaking etc?
5) any recommendations, tips or notes at all for BSD and pinsound upgrade?
Thanks,

I put in a flipper fidelity speaker system along with the pinsound board. Definitely noticeable difference. I also use a small 8" external subwoofer on the floor under the game. It's just fed off of the cabinet speaker. Sounds great, no issues. No shaker on mine.

1 week later
#10168 11 months ago
Quoted from SDM0:

Bram Stoker's look better in black or white rubber?

Red or Clear Titans look pretty damn good

1 week later
#10220 11 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

My tip - go the black powdercoat!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I second this. There are plenty of photos here to decide whether you like the look or not. Just go for the powder if you like it. I went with a black that has subtle purple and blue flakes. Looks black until the light hits it just right.

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#10223 11 months ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Stunning peoples !! ...some very sexy looking black powder coating there !!
Quick question, removing the door inner workings/harness etc, simple enough task ?

Yes, it looks tough, but it's not really bad. Just take lots of pictures.

1 week later
#10242 11 months ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I've got the dreaded mist ball problem.
Looks like no light from the long opto. Time to start disassembly.

Before you tear everything to hell and back, remove your 24" opto control board from underneath the playfield and inspect it closely. It's easy to remove, and known to cause issues if it's original. Mine went bad a couple weeks ago. It had a burnt resistor on the board. Replaced the resistor and it fried again. Then I noticed a swollen (from heat) chip on the board. I figured that was the culprit. Bought a brand new board for $80 and it fixed all my issues. Never had to take apart anything above the playfield. Definitely worth a close look.

#10256 10 months ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Had to stick a piece of padded tape on the lower ball guide of the right mist pocket. The ball was not blocking the beam adequately. I’ve got a little strip of tape about 1/8” thick in both pockets.
I used a pickup magnet on the ball and was able to just move it off the guide a bit in switch test to see that this fixed it.
I didn’t find it adjustable when I had it all disassembled, something I’m missing in terms of beam angle?

No sir, it's not really adjustable. I also use the foam tape method. I believe it's a pretty common fix.

3 weeks later
#10384 10 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

I had a missing ball. It was Stuck in the under trough. Right on the step here pictured, does this look right to y’all?
[quoted image]

No, the plastic should be on the other side of the metal ledge so that the ball rolls cleanly into the vuk. As yours is now, a slow rolling ball will get stuck at the entry to the vuk

#10389 10 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Crazy, I’ve had this game for years…never a problem until now…

Weird how that works. I guess the ball usually has enough momentum to hop over the metal lip? But yeah, move the subway up over the metal trough entry

#10391 10 months ago
Quoted from hAbO:

BSDs are notoriously dirty and beat up. Mine was no exception.

Same here, mines a beauty now after a playfield swap, all new plastics, star posts, rubbers, rad cals, mirrored backglass, etc, etc, etc. But MAN was it nasty when I got it. Look at that new playfield and cleaned up metal shine

20220324_233313 (resized).jpg20220324_233313 (resized).jpg
#10394 9 months ago
Quoted from PBlank:

So jealous, I would love to get a new playfield and do a full pass on everything. I've never done one before.

It's alot of work, and attention to detail is crucial but it's rewarding if that kind of thing floats your boat. I definitely enjoy it. I will say, BSD is the toughest playfield swap out of the ones I've done.

1 month later
#10487 8 months ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Welp. New optos didnt do the trick. Looks like i will be buying a new opto board.

New board did it for me

2 weeks later
#10511 7 months ago
Quoted from DK:

Whats my Drac worth? Restore was done in 2020 and lightly played since
New playfield
Powdercoated lockdown bar, siderails, and legs
New ramps
Drac mod instead of Rob Jeremy toy
New plastics
Radcal cabinet decals
LOTS LOTS LOTS of new parts
Here's a couple of pics. Looking to see how much to list for. Thanks for any info
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mine is also a full restoration with radcals and powder coat. I also have a color DMD, mirrored cpr backglass, and pinsound board. I wouldn't take less than 7500 for mine.

20220118_195511 (resized).jpg20220118_195511 (resized).jpg20220324_233313 (resized).jpg20220324_233313 (resized).jpg

#10516 7 months ago

Not sure what the laugh is about? He asked what his BSD was worth, and I gave him my opinion and shared a few pics of mine mid restoration. If you're laughing at the fact that I said I wouldn't take less than 7500 for mine, you're entitled to your opinion, but that's what it's worth to me considering all the time, effort, and new parts in it. If you're laughing at something you see in the pics, you're again entitled to your opinion, but those pics were when the job was a work in progress. I guess I should just not try and help anyone out from now on lest I risk being shamed.

#10518 7 months ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Using the term "full restoration" and radcals - I'm sorry they don't go together (My opinion). All that aside - I'm not knocking your work it looks great - don't take stuff so seriously.

Most restorations these days aren't true restorations in the classic sense. I chose my words poorly. Almost everyone adds some little piece of flare or upgrade. Wether it be LEDs, color DMD, powder coat, art blades, silicone rings, etc... I suppose mine is more of a resto-mod. Either way, I'm not a humorless prick with a stick up my ass. It's just hard to understand someone who laughs at a post (with no context clues) that was meant to be helpful. I understand now, you don't like rad-cals. All good man, I'm done.

#10520 7 months ago
Quoted from PNBLWZD:

And sale pending, so apparently the price estimates were very close. Beautiful game, congrats on the sale!

Yup, exactly

#10536 7 months ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Not sure what you mean about hovering above . As the pics show, it offers more protection.

I believe he was referring to where the shooter lane channel meets your ramp flap, not the cliffy. Something does seem very wrong. Look at the pic here from you vs. the one posted just below you.

Screenshot_20230914_072259_Brave (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230914_072259_Brave (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230914_072329_Brave (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230914_072329_Brave (resized).jpg
1 week later
#10562 7 months ago
Quoted from Bohm:

I didn't phrase my question correctly; What is it about Rad Cals that make them different from normal decals? I have no experience with them, not sure if I've ever seen or noticed one.

Rad cals are not actually vinyl decals, they are a semi rigid piece of thin plastic (about 1/32" thick?) With the graphics printed on the back side. They are self adhesive. The result is a highly vivid, glossy finish. They're easier to apply than traditional decals, and in my opinion, look great when done properly. In this pic, you can see a chair and an end table being reflected by the Rad cals.

Screenshot_20230921_101943_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230921_101943_Gallery (resized).jpg
#10592 7 months ago
Quoted from Ladyhawkwind:

Billc479 - Which piece? The coffin cover? i did replace my coffin cover but don't think that has anything to do with the game not recognizing three balls. Do you think that has something to do with it?
aobrien5 - I'm new to all this so opto issue means a switch issue? Is that where I should start looking?
UPDATE - Castle multiball is doing the same thing as coffin.

How many balls are in the game?

#10597 7 months ago
Quoted from Ladyhawkwind:

The 4th ball was stuck under the castle ramp! Someone else with new eyes spotted it after looking for a while.
Thanks everyone!

There ya go! I thought maybe it was a number of balls issue

#10609 6 months ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

I so rarely lock balls in the castle. Just now I had 2 balls locked in the castle, then got enough ramps to start BATS. The game diverted the ball to the castle, then released all 3 balls at once into the shooter lane. Is that expected behaviour, or should it release only 1? I feel like the latter, and I must have an opto issue there.

Definitely not normal behavior. Even IF you had locked the final ball for multiball, the game should release and auto launch one ball at a time. If your game released all 3 at once, you may have issues with more than optics. Does the up post in the castle lock work in coil test?

1 month later
#10712 5 months ago
Quoted from ImNotNorm:

Do you have a ebay username? I found a few. One in the US & one in France.

I know it "triggers" some people, and yes the owner of Mirco is a dick, but Rad Cals are awesome on BSD.
20220118_195457 (resized).jpg20220118_195457 (resized).jpg20220118_195511 (resized).jpg20220118_195511 (resized).jpg20220118_195824 (resized).jpg20220118_195824 (resized).jpg

#10740 5 months ago
Quoted from Wanderers:

Any body have and idea when Starship Fantasy will have Drac ramps ready???

No one knows for sure but them. I'd direct message them here, or shoot them an email. Hopefully sooner than later.

2 months later
#10968 87 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I went with black lightning flippers
[quoted image]

I did the same thing but with red rubbers

#11000 84 days ago
Quoted from Cariba:

Do lightning and standard use different flipper rubbers then? what is the size/ref of each rubber then?

Standard rubbers on both

1 month later
#11054 46 days ago

I Agree with the above posts, seems like an opto is out of alignment. Pushing the balls back triggers the optics, and the coil fires.

1 week later
#11064 33 days ago
Quoted from ImNotNorm:

Is there a reason CPR hasn't done a BSD repro playfield yet?
Seems like it would be a good candidate for reproduction.

Mirco makes one, and it's beautiful. I know, he's a jerk, I agree. I know, he's had past issues, but I've installed 2 of his playfields now, and they're perfect. Better quality than the 2 CPRs I've installed in fact.

#11072 33 days ago

Well, that's your decision. I dislike him personally for my own reasons, but the playfields I've seen and used were top notch. Just my worthless 2 cents

#11074 33 days ago
Quoted from ImNotNorm:

I appreciate the input.
I just can't, in good conscious, hand over money to a crook and thief.

I get that

#11083 29 days ago
Quoted from Leonardogit:

Hello everyone, my BSD has a peculiar problem with the magneto optos (those where the beam crosses the playfield), when I turn on the machine these optos do not work for about 5 minutes, after 5 minutes the optos work normally, I have already done changing the optos and the problem persists

Most likely the opto control board. Replacements are available fairly cheap.

#11085 29 days ago
Quoted from Leonardogit:

Are you referring to 10 opto boards or the little plate that these optos are connected to?

The 10 opto board. The original boards are known to go bad and cause all sorts of problems

#11087 29 days ago
Quoted from Leonardogit:

cool to know, coincidentally my Medieval Madness has a defective 10 opto board
I found two for sale, one from Marco which is made by PindoraBox and one from Pinball Life which is made by Homepin, which of these boards is more reliable?

I have the one from Pinballlife.com and it works great. I have no experience with the other one.

#11092 28 days ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

For mist it is the 24" opto board you need to look at.
Replacement is available. Boards are often damaged by leaking capacitors.
https://www.pinballlife.com/24-opto-replacement-board-a-15646.html

Shit, that's correct. I completely forgot about the dedicated 24" board. Both of mine have been replaced. This game has so many opto issues, lol.

3 weeks later
#11129 7 days ago
Quoted from ita47:

I officially joined the club yesterday. I finally got it home and setup last night.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice looking example of a great game. And yes, Pinsound board and color DMD are literal game changers.

#11143 5 days ago
Quoted from Enchantress:

Pinsound vs PinWoofer?

Pinsound board offers the alternate soundtracks. That's what most people are referring to when they mention it. Not so much the speakers

#11158 3 days ago

Yup, I'd replace the long range opto board. It's less than $100 and is known to cause all sorts of crazy mist problems. If it doesn't fix the issue, well, you have a fresh reliable new board and you can eliminate that as the issue.

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