(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by aobrien5
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Topic index (key posts)

31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (7 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (7 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (7 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (7 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (6 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (6 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (6 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (6 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (6 years ago)

Post #416 Plunger rebuild parts. Posted by vintage4life (6 years ago)

Post #483 Gameplay / Instruction cards Posted by tilted81 (6 years ago)

Post #563 Playfield Protector Posted by phishrace (6 years ago)

Post #677 Mystery Hole rewards Posted by Jodester (6 years ago)

Post #701 Coffin Ramp Rejecting fix - Clear plastic under headstone Posted by 27dnast (6 years ago)

Post #890 Pinball Rebel Instruction cards Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #958 Mounting the prototype plastics Posted by Drano (5 years ago)

Post #975 Mist Gate Troubleshooting Posted by Bryan_Kelly (5 years ago)

Post #1002 Making a Left Mist Gate? - Click the link Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #1065 BSD Shop Out Guide Posted by gtown (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider bryan_kelly.
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#902 5 years ago

My next restore is a BSD for myself. I can't wait. Finally one for me. For years, I never cared for the game. I never really gave it a chance until I bought one to flip. I'd play it for an hour each day while waiting for the shipper to show. Fell in love. I think I'm going to pimp this one out with chrome trim and LED's.

#904 5 years ago

This one is for me. That's the best part. I've also got a playfield ready to go. Found one locally. NOS fully populated playfield that never found its way into a game. The guy I bought it from took about 25% of the parts for another BSD. The playfield was cleared by a local body shop buddy and I've got all the coil mechs rebuilt and ready to go.

I wish James would hurry up with the ramps.

#905 5 years ago

Once I'm done with mine, I'll have the original Sun Process playfield for sale along with a bunch of parts.

#916 5 years ago
Quoted from Shadow_E:

Good luck with the restore! I'd be interested in the clear plastics under the playfield that run along the length of the mist multi-ball mech.

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The restore won't start for another month or so. Once I'm into it, I'll post what's for sale.

1 week later
#975 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

New Mist ball problem. I just got done shopping my machine, and now the right gate doesn't open far enough to allow the ball out most of the time. Usually the ball gets hung up on the gate and just sits there. If I help the gate open further during activation, everything works fine. I didn't disassemble this mech when shopping it, but I did take the solenoid apart to clean it after this started happening. I did have to take the gate off so I could remove the plastics, but I never unhooked it from the arm.
Help?

Make sure the bracket the coil is mounted on is straight up and down. It can easily get bent toward the center of the playfield which will not allow the gate to open far enough. Take off the building above it and it'll be easy to tell.

1 week later
#1015 5 years ago

If anyone has or knows someone who has a complete NOS set of plastics, please let me know.

#1024 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

If anyone has or knows someone who has a complete NOS set of plastics, please let me know.

I'm willing to buy the set outright but if you're not willing to sell, I'd pay you to borrow them for a bit.

#1026 5 years ago
Quoted from MXV:

Bryan are you needing a set to use to create reproduction plastics from?

One might think that but I can't say that for the record. Don't want to get in trouble.

#1043 5 years ago

Anyone else have metal playfield side rails on their game? The BSD I'm restoring is the second one I've seen with them.

The third and fourth pic show the NOS playfield that will be going in my game. It had wood ones on it so I made new ones and installed them not knowing my game had metal ones. The wood ones will be replaced.

I've restored a number of WH2O's and only had one that had the metal ones.

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#1049 5 years ago

Damn!! Looks like my wood ones will have to stay. The mounting holes are different for the metal ones.

#1051 5 years ago

I just happened to think. The wood ones are on a Lenc Smith playfield and the metal ones are on a Sun Process. Interesting. The companies must have made them different because the mounting holes are completely different with each playfield.

#1056 5 years ago
Quoted from skywalker:

can someone tell me what are the differences between LS & SP, could not find any info in the quick search

SP is the better of the two. LS playfields seem to have a lot of issues with ghosting under the inserts. You won't find that with the SP.

#1068 5 years ago

I started restoration of my BSD yesterday. After me and a buddy dropped it on one of the front corners, some structural repairs were needed. Only game I ever dropped.

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#1096 5 years ago

BSD is quickly becoming my favorite game. The cabinet is all done and its on to the playfield.

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1 week later
#1123 5 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

What do you guys think of this cabinet side? Picked it up over the weekend.

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One side always seems to look great but rarely both sides. One side had to point towards the window.

1 week later
#1144 5 years ago
Quoted from flipperilaakso:

I really wish I had read this thread before I tore down my Dracula. I'm usually pretty anal about measuring everything really carefully, but those 4 post were so close that they fooled me to believe that they are all the same height when I roughly measured them on the playfield. Only noticed the slight difference after they were out and of course at this point I didn't know anymore which was from which place. So YES I would be interested in this information and I think it should be documented in this wonderful thread. Im aware you already put your BSD back together but I hope you have the info still (fingers crossed).

There are 4 posts the coffin is attached to. The 2 in front are 1 5/8" and the 2 in back are 1 11/16". There are also 2 in the far back of this metal plate that the plastic mounts to and they're 1 3/4".

#1145 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

There are 4 posts the coffin is attached to. The 2 in front are 1 5/8" and the 2 in back are 1 11/16". There are also 2 in the far back of this metal plate that the plastic mounts to and they're 1 3/4".

Here's a pic, although for reference purposes, it's upside down.

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2 weeks later
#1255 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

They do not all have them and they are not interchangeable. Someone else recently discovered this in another thread.

That was me. My personal one has wood, along with another I worked on. Two others had metal.

#1270 5 years ago
Quoted from kevinleedrum:

I'm not really sure. TZ is the same way; some got the switch, some didn't. As far as I know, the connectors are always on the wire harness though, as you've discovered.

On some games from that era, the switch was attached to the door. If the door got changed, the new doors don't have that feature. You than have to add the bracket the switch attaches to.

1 week later
#1289 5 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

Any news on plastics? Just noticed my left sling plastic is officially broken (don't know when it happened).

They're in the works. That's the only news I can give you.

#1291 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Well, that sounds like good news to me.

Oh, they'll get done but they're being done as a huge favor for me, so I'm not pushing it.

1 week later
#1313 5 years ago

I played that one also. I thought it was one of the nicest, if not the nicest, looking game there.

Quoted from Looper:

I played this for the first time at MGC and absolutely loved it. Can't wait to find another in my area so I can play more!

1 week later
#1412 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Hmm, that empty cut out looks suspiciously like it could have once held an outlet. I know my game was a reimport from Europe, could that be why it's gone?

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That's exactly why it's gone. No sense in putting in a 120 volt outlet in a game going overseas. Normally there would be a rubber plug in the hole.

2 weeks later
#1563 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

Ya that is exactly it, if a shot goes in with any power it jumps up and hits the main ramp as it turns the corner and gets rejected. Very frustrating. I guess I could make something temporarily, but I wasn't sure if Bryan Kellys set would come with the clear pieces.
The plastic labeled #2 is not as important to me, I have one but it's cracked, I will probably just glue it in the meantime.

The clear plastics will be included.

2 weeks later
#1610 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Still waiting for Bryan Kelly's set...

They're in the works.

4 weeks later
#1707 5 years ago

I finally finished mine. Complete with new plastics, custom painted buildings, LEDs and a bit of chrome. I'm not much of an LED fan but the job Cointaker did with BSD was fantastic.

And it's funny to think I didn't care for this game at all until I played it about 20 times. Now, it's in my top three.

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#1708 5 years ago

I've currently got BSD's coming out my ass!!

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#1711 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Beautiful! Why is your Love Never Dies text on the speaker panel black?
Edit: clear? Do tell!

Some previous owner must have tried to clean it with something and it left the white backing all blotchy. It looked like shit so I totally removed it. I actually like it. The flashers really blow you away.

2 weeks later
#1757 5 years ago

I posted this in another thread but thought I'd share it here also. In regards to repro BSD plastic sets.

Here's what I'm going to do for now. My apologies, but it's just easier this way.

The set is $158 plus $12 shipping, in the US. I can ship as many sets as you want for $12. Send me a check for as many sets as you want along with the shipping cost and I'll send them out as quickly as I can. The set contains everything you need along with extra sling and extra center target plastics. If, for some reason, you're not happy with them, just send them back and I'll be more than happy to send you a refund.

Please include your shipping info and your Pinside handle. I will eventually be contacting those in this thread and don't want to contact you if you've already ordered a set. I do not know that Bill Smith is bigf'ingdick33 on Pinside, so please let me know who you are. It'll make my life a whole lot easier, although I know some will still f' this part up. A number of these are eventually going to Rick at PPS and BAA, so if you don't get them from me, you can order them there.

Please send check to:

Bryan Kelly
18890 Elgin Ave
Farmington MN 55024

#1771 5 years ago

Anyone in need of a new backboard decal? Mine is trashed and I need to see about getting another made. Might make more if there's any interest.

#1780 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Do you mean the side backboard decals?

I mean this one.

image.jpg
1 week later
#1821 5 years ago

Another bump for new plastic sets.

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I posted this in another thread but thought I'd share it here also. In regards to repro BSD plastic sets.
Here's what I'm going to do for now. My apologies, but it's just easier this way.
The set is $158 plus $12 shipping, in the US. I can ship as many sets as you want for $12. Send me a check for as many sets as you want along with the shipping cost and I'll send them out as quickly as I can. The set contains everything you need along with extra sling and extra center target plastics. If, for some reason, you're not happy with them, just send them back and I'll be more than happy to send you a refund.
Please include your shipping info and your Pinside handle. I will eventually be contacting those in this thread and don't want to contact you if you've already ordered a set. I do not know that Bill Smith is bigf'ingdick33 on Pinside, so please let me know who you are. It'll make my life a whole lot easier, although I know some will still f' this part up. A number of these are eventually going to Rick at PPS and BAA, so if you don't get them from me, you can order them there.
Please send check to:
Bryan Kelly
18890 Elgin Ave
Farmington MN 55024

3 weeks later
#1889 5 years ago

Now up on Ebay. BSD repro plastic sets.

ebay.com link

If any Pinsiders need them, price is $170 shipped with personal check and $175 shipped using Paypal. Send me a PM if you need details.

I will say again, when these are gone, they're gone. If you need a set, I'd get them NOW!!

1 month later
#2003 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

The parts list, you know I looked at that before posting this question and said "Meh, this won't help". Sigh, its been a long day.
Could you guys tell me which goes where? Long in the back short in the front? I know that is not in the manual, I checked for that.

Long ones go in the back and short in the front.

#2005 5 years ago

I would think so, yes. The entire playfield pivots on the back and if they're not long enough, you could have trouble.

I've seen a number of games with shorter ones in the front and if you look under the playfield, that's usually because there are parts mounted close to the slide assemblies and longer ones would interfere.

Quoted from Glarrownage:

Thanks again Bryan! You have done so much work on my machine I feel like I should be paying you for it.
So, obviously the shorter pivot nuts were on the back, would that be the cause of the slide assembly slipping off? Just trying to understand how this happened:

IMG_20140904_095906_010.jpg 104 KB

1 week later
#2023 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

Hey guys, I noticed when looking at other peoples pictures, a metal ball guide attached to the left side of the left ramp on my table is different than others. Most other tables have a triangular shaped ball guide (top picture). I seem to have a straight ball guide (bottom picture. Does anyone else have a straight guide on the left side of this ramp or is it just me?

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IMG_20140824_162931_724.jpg 155 KB

I have two BSD's here and one has the guide with the finger and the other has the straight guide. The finger is there to prevent ball traps. On the one with the straight guide, there should be a couple of plastic posts mounted to the ramp to do the same thing as the finger.

#2027 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Is this a wood vs metal side rail thing?

Lol. Not really sure. Looks like it was a change made midway through production.

4 months later
#2290 4 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Thanks Jaybird. That's definitely going to help. If anyone else has other shots to confirm the wiring, I'd love to see em. New flipper boards and IDC connectors ordered, hopefully by some time next week I can get them and install them and rebuild the flippers and see a bit more power and hack free.

If you have a manual, you should be able to find a diagram of the opto board showing the wire locations on the connector.

3 months later
#2615 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Here a pic with the post unscrewed. Basically the post is screwed in a fixed hole drilled on the playfield (you can see it in the pic). So, the hole cannot be moved. Do I need to drill a new one bit above of the first one?
If this is the case, I cannot understand what aobiren5 means: For what I understood, there is nothing under the playfield related to this post...
Also don't understand what neurokinetik means: for removing this post its not needed to remove the castle and the village...
image.jpg

That post stays where it's at. No moving that one. The one you move is a red star post just above and to the left. It has a rubber on it that extends to another star post to the right of it.

3 weeks later
#2724 4 years ago
Quoted from robertmee:

When my AMH hits in the next week BSD will be headed to the garage for a full tear down and cabinet decal. While I have it apart what are the available mods other than LEDS and blood red flippers?

Hopefully, you've got a new set of plastics. If not, I know where you can get a set.

3 months later
#3009 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Usually Capatitor on the 24 opto board . I just help ed another guy on here fix another . Thats the 8th person with same issue and capacitor fixed it.. crazy how all are drying out or leaking at the same time

Had the same thing happen on mine. Just started out of the blue. Of course I thought it was the optos. A good friend of mine, who knows more than me, suggested changing the board. Problem solved.

5 months later
#3317 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I'm really liking the gloss blqack powder coat.
Is there a pinsider that provides this service, or is everyone just taking theirs to a local powder coat shop?

Matt at Back Alley Creations does beautiful work. Trust me, not all powder coaters are the same.

#3321 3 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

Red trim is hands down the best choice, imo. Funny how easy it is to presume others will concur, only to learn your opinion is in the minority. Go red or be dead!

LOL I had a chrome one sitting next to my BSM, which of course, is chrome. I like the "classy" look. Sadly, someone offered me stupid money for it and I sold it. I do, however, have another and it'll get the same treatment when I get around to it. I love everything about this game!!

4 months later
#3529 3 years ago
Quoted from PjM:

Cannot recall where the above plastics go! Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

They go on the underside on each side of the mist multi ball groove.

3 months later
#3790 3 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

Can someone post a pic of how this switch mounts to the drop target assembly please. It wasn't registering properly and I also found the actuator on the bottom of cabinet. I took it off to re-attach and forgot how it goes back and nothing seems right. Thanks

Go to pinballlife.com and search for drop target assembly. You can see it there.

1 month later
#3974 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nice! I will do just that! Thanks so much!
Btw, any idea on the mist light please?
Also, I need this spacer (FF) because the top has a broken screw inside. I've been looking for this size but all of them are 8-32 or 6-32. What is the correct size for this spacer please? Thanks so much!

It should be 3 1/4" long and 6x32 female on both ends.

1 month later
#4292 2 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Just curious how much (if any) people think the fact a game is a re-import lowers the value?

I will say, the games I have more corrosion issues with are re-imports. Having said that, condition means everything...re-import or not. Don't run away from one just because it is.

2 months later
#4537 2 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Looking to send my plastics to modfather... How does the cemetery come off the ramp? Do I need to remove the ramp to gain access from underneath?

Yes.

5 months later
#4808 2 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

I'm missing the black spacers in the plastic above the pop bumper. Any idea where I can pick up these little guys?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3156

1 week later
#4834 2 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

This is the lever that moves up and down in the solenoid to raise/lower the ramp. I have a lot of play in the link and am thinking the part or the roll pin is worn out. The play seems to keep the ramp from fully raising.
Does anyone else have alot of play in this lever?
Unfortunately it is sold out at marco specialties.
Anyone have an extra one of these laying around?

You should have a bushing/spacer on the roll pin a tad smaller than the hole in the part you pictured. If you have just the roll pin, it may not be lifting it high enough.

1 week later
#4856 2 years ago
Quoted from Backdoc01:

Hi all,
Anybody know who sells the speaker panel with the clear window for a ColorDMD. I've looked all over with no luck.

ebay.com link » Williams Bram Stokers Dracula Pinball Machine Speaker Panel Dmd Brand New

2 months later
#5013 1 year ago

If anyone needs a plastic set, I still have a couple of reproduction sets I had made a few years ago. When these are gone, they're gone. I see BAA and Marco are sold out.

$160 includes shipping.

5 months later
#5385 1 year ago

For anyone interested, here's what chrome trim looks like.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#5411 1 year ago

I've got a couple plastic sets available, if interested. Cheaper than any of the online stores.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/65999

#5415 1 year ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Sent you a PM for plastic #13. Thanks so much, Bryan

All PM's have been replied to.

Thanks!

#5435 1 year ago
Quoted from Cudaman:

Could someone measure for me? They are missing on my game and I need to purchase the correct ones. Based on Lou Perazzoli guide, he seems to suggest they are all 5/8 inch.

They have to be 5/8". That's the shortest listed in the manual. It shows 3 needed for the game. Next size is 1 1/8". That's way too long.

#5442 1 year ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

A sense of joy fills when the last broken plastic has been replaced. Of course on Drac it had to be THIS one, right? I'll give you a sense of the evil it was to swap out. Off comes the Carfax Abbey plastic, numerous posts, brackets, gate, gate power connector and the VUK wireform. Can you find the break spot on the original plastic?

Glad I could help!

2 weeks later
#5475 1 year ago
Quoted from Hazzard:

Got myself a new topper for my drac! Limited edition!
[quoted image]

That actually looks really good compared to most of the shit I see people put on the top of their games (and for why I don't know).

1 month later
#5691 1 year ago
Quoted from codered9394:

After the long search I have finally joined the club. Wondering if anyone has a couple used or new plastics that I need. See the pictures below for the plastics needed. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

I reproduced complete BSD plastic sets a couple of years ago and recently sold all the individual pieces I had left. These two are gone.

Quoted from Spinape:

My slings are the only broken ones on my machine. Both have a bit missing from the corners.. I would have suspected those to be the most commonly broken ones

I still have sling sets left. $25 shipped, if anyone is interested.

2 weeks later
2 weeks later
#5868 1 year ago
Quoted from Mister_Swede:

Yes my has all and I can´t get the sound lower than 8, interesting why.

There's a sound override setting in the adjustments.

3 weeks later
#5913 1 year ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I am looking for a source for the clear DMD panel, I am planning on adding the colordmd to my BSD. Thanks

ebay.com link » Williams Bram Stokers Dracula Pinball Machine Speaker Panel Dmd Brand New

1 month later
#6002 11 months ago
Quoted from Phat_Jay:

How long you guys figure to do a playfield swap? Never done one before but i do my own work and am mech inclined.

If you've never done one, figure twice as long as anyone tells you. Time also depends on if you're just doing a swap or cleaning and rebuilding everything.

I will say, BSD is complicated and time consuming. It might be the heaviest playfield I've ever dealt with and there's a LOT of shit on it...topside and bottom side. Maybe not the first one you'd want to do, but I guess you have to start somewhere.

#6018 11 months ago
Quoted from Phat_Jay:

Trying to decide what I want to do. Is it possible to do it in a weekend?

Well, I've seen some here claim they can do it. I don't think there's any way in hell you could do it, even without cleaning anything.

#6022 11 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

You may want to heed this advice as bryan_kelly has completed 4-5 BSD restorations (including mine which turned out awesome) so he does know what he is talking about.
Gord

Thanks Gord. If I'm doing a playfield swap, I'm gong all out. Why not. I'll never have everything off that playfield again. Everything is getting cleaned and rebuilt, including all of the harnesses. Total time will be 50 to 60 hours. Like I said, though, BSD is more complicated than most games.

Now that I think about it, I just finished swapping the 3 playfields in a Haunted House for a friend. Total time about 65 hours.

5 months later
#6458 5 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

The ramp referred to in this post from many moons ago. Where to source? Thanks.
EDIT: I just found this but would still need the blue metal riveted on, definitely don’t have the tool for that.
https://www.fabunlimited.com/pinball/bram-stokers-dracula-pinball-clear-coffin-lock-ramp?category=Bram%20Stoker%27s%20Dracula

If you'd like, ship the parts to me and I'll take care of it.

1 month later
#6636 3 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Bryan Kelly had some before. Shoot him a PM.

All gone.

2 weeks later
#6697 3 months ago
Quoted from goatdan:

As I'm working on the rebuild... Is there a way to clean up nasty yellow lightning flippers? Or should I just go with black lightning ones instead?[quoted image]

Soak them in your cleaner of choice. I like Purple Power degreaser. Then scrub with a red Scotchbrite pad.

#6702 3 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

bryan_kelly have you found that some flipper runners fit lightning bats more tightly than others? I love the lightning flippers, but it seems like the rubber is just a tad more dead than rubber on standard flippers. As far as I know, no one makes a ever-so-slightly smaller lightning flipper rubber?

I've never noticed a difference between standard flipper rubber on standard flippers or lightening flippers and I've never seen one slightly smaller.

2 months later
#6936 23 days ago
Quoted from Ozzy:

Need your input....price check on a nice bsd. Fully shopped , radkal decals, no errors color dmd, leds some powdercoating. Drac mod. Game looks great but nowhere near original look. Whar kind of realistic value would you put on it? thanks

I would never give a realistic value on a game without being able to look inside the head, inside the cabinet and under the playfield. Most anyone can make the outside look nice. Sometimes the inside can be a disaster.

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