Bram Stoker's Dracula
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Joined the club few days ago on a sweet pickup neededsome love but its really nice overall. I need the plastic shroud thats behind the casket that covers the bulb housing and wires. Or a pic of it off maybe can make something if nobody has one.thax and its such a amazing game all around and see why its gotten so much attention the last few years .
Ok I need a few pieces on my bsd and figured id ask here first I need the plastic thats above the 3 bank targets below the pops and I need the plastic shroud behind the grave marker that covers the light houseing and wires . Pm me if you have extras thax
Quoted from bigd1979:
Ok I need a few pieces on my bsd and figured id ask here first I need the plastic thats above the 3 bank targets below the pops and I need the plastic shroud behind the grave marker that covers the light houseing and wires . Pm me if you have extras thax
Anyone ? I found everything but the plastic behind the grave marker .someone with a nice one wanna take some pics of it off ? Maybe I can make one im not worried about thee sticker on it . Im sure oalot people could use this piece
Quoted from n0s4atu:
Add me to the list of folks who want a playfield. I think there are quite a few of us, but when I talked to Mirco he seemed to think it wasn't worth the effort.
Anyway, now on to my main question. Does anyone or can anyone take a picture inside the cabinet of the flipper opto board and connectors? Ideally I'd like to be able to see which color wire goes where. I was about to tackle rebuilding the flippers for more oomph and asked in Vid's thread what type of switch was best and he was like switch? You've got a flipper opto board. And I was all like nuh uh...So if anyone's got a similar pic, but with the correct parts I'd love to be able to see what wires are going into the IDC connectors.
I suspect they may look like this...leftswitch.jpg 193 KB
rightswitch.jpg 178 KB
ButtonMess.jpg 244 KB
Wow someone really hacked your vsd from this and what you told me when I saw you ? Cant belive u paid what u did for it ill try get you pics here in a bit if someone dont beat me to it .I wonder what the difference is in the flippers when done like this ? Why would someone do it?
Quoted from neurokinetik:
That's the way mine are (and they are all the correct parts). On mine, it is actually possible to make the left ramp from the left flipper (though very difficult) and the right ramp from the right flipper (not terribly difficult). I have even knocked the mist ball all the way up the left ramp for a castle lock (once, and from the right flipper).
I had to add foam to the left ramp diverter to keep the ball on the habitrail.
Same for me i even tried making them weaker lol
Quoted from Jaybird815:
Thanks BigD. That C7 capacitor on the 24 opto board was it. I love $1.50 radio shack fixes. Ball is no longer just dropping out of right mist gate.
I told you im so glad I figured out what was causing this issue to bad It wasn't know the last few years because lotta people could of saved alot of money better late than never I guess
Quoted from Erik:
I generally play with negative slope. Otherwise gravity pulls the ball down towards the flippers, which can result in ball drain!!
Lol just saying may be causing some of the issues also at least put it at 6.5
No problem, when I get the shooter firing au natural, I'll set slope to your recommended 6.7 and see if that helps as well
Only issue is the game is so hard and fast and every .1 degree just magnifys the speed lol but dam its a rush
It is a pretty awesome game, stacked 3 multiballs for the first time last night!
Its such a great feeling and a rush
Well, I've got a 5A SB in and seems ok for now. I was going to say I was snowed in and can't get to the Radio Shack today, but seems silly to complain about 4 or so inches on the road to someone up in MA. lol
You can always go lower just not higher however to low and it will blow quick. We have 10 inches of snow now roads are bad but our jeeps rock lol
Quoted from Wickedbass:
lol at 4"-10" of snow!
At least you get to stay home and play some BSD!!!
I know its not much but our tiwn is horrible at clearing roads thats y we have a new jeep tho I miss the blizzards we had in the 90s with 38 inches those were the days guess ill have move to Boston
Quoted from neverahighscore:
Any leads for the center plastic & slingshot plastic protectors. Looking to pick these up for a soon to be delivered BSD. I did check the usual sellers and sold out. Thanks-Joe
Little shop of games has everything u need
Quoted from gatordad:
Here is your plastic protectors
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-dracula-plastic-protectors
I also put my daughter who is on her break from college to workphoto 1.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
photo 2.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
She dont look old enough to be in college or im just getting to old to remember lol
Quoted from jimbeam42:
I started having problems with my mist so figured I would post here first. When the machine is first turned on, in loads the ball in the right pocket. Then it opens the gate and let's the ball out. Keeps doing this several times. Diagnostics show the long opto not being triggered when it loads the ball.
However, if the game is left on for a while, everything works perfectly. Was thinking it was caps on the opto board, but they were replaced with no effect.
Its the capacitor on the opto board ive helped many people by telling them to replace it which ones were replaced on what board and were they the correct ones?.pm me if you need more info
Quoted from galaga50:
Hi all, I picked up my BSD about a month ago. Totally love it. Its a really tough game and like others have said, you keep coming back for more.
Question - sometimes when the ball goes in the mystery hole, it gets ejected straight away back to the left flipper. So the playfield is still dark and the ball is back in play. If you get mist, you get your ball back long before mist starts.
Does anyone else have this happen? Any ideas what to do about it? It seems to happen at first, then a bit of playing later, it functions as it should.
Very happy to be a BSD owner!!!
Lots of bugs in bsd code since it never got updated
Quoted from Luppin:
ok, found out that the launch ball problem simply depended from a wire no properly attached.
another question: during the light test, light 16 does not work, and I cannot locate it on the playfield. Its called "right ramp lock". Where is it?
Theres a green light under the right ramp to let you know when its lifted for a ball lock
isn't that the left ramp diverter?
One there also above diverter but theres also a vreen light under the right ramp
Are the words 'Love Never Dies' directly under the DMD meant to light up?
Yup during certain times they are 906 bulbs
Hmmm, thanks. Mine don't light up - will have to have a look.
It gets unplugged alot bc non pinheads aren't sure where it goes lol
Hi,
I have a problem with the launch button. At first the flashing light (when the ball is ready for launch) did not work. I realized a wire was loose, so I solder it and the problem seemed to be solved. But now the light (which is supposed to flash when the ball is ready to be launched, right?) does work only sometimes. I do not touch the wires, but sometimes it works, sometimes not. Also, I rarely have the problem that the launch system does not work at all: I push the button and but the ball is not launched at all. When this happens, its enough to switch the pinball off and the launch button immediately works fine again.
Do you think there is a problem on the whole launch button assembly? Can the two issues possibly be related?
Definitely sounds like the actual assembly issue but I would make sure all the wiring is connected good first.also make sure its nice and tight so the launch button bis hitting the switch
It should go to the right flipper. Like your shooter coil, disassemble the rat hole coil and clean it. Replace the sleeve if necessary. When reinstalling, make sure the mechanism bracket is screwed down tightly to the playfield. There's a little bit of wiggle room in that mechanism for adjusting the angle it comes out at.
You can also bend the rounded "hood" above the playfield to effect how the ball comes out. Very tiny bends if you go that route.
He sld just do a complete shop job on it at this point lol
<bluote cite="#2499473">Thanks, man. It was a pleasure to meet you too, Ryan. Seriously, I had a fantastic time, and I know Corvette went to a loving family and a great pinhead who will take great care of it.
As for BSD, here's a couple pictures 
!
20150607_143513.jpg
20150607_124446.jpg 20150607_143403.jpg 20150607_143412.jpg 20150607_162725.jpg 20150607_162731.jpg 20150607_162737.jpg 20150607_162744.jpg 20150607_162821.jpg 20150607_143424.jpg 20150607_143450.jpg 20150607_162758.jpg 20150607_162810.jpg 20150607_162737.jpg 20150607_151058.jpg
20150607_124428.jpg
One thing I noticed is that the one decorative plastic on your lower pop bumper actually goes on the top left pop.
<blocke="#2508613">I have had a couple people ask me about speaker replacements in BSD. I wrote up an email earlier today, and I figured I'd share it with everyone here. This post will have all the details needed to pretty much pick out and install new speakers in your BSD or any equivalent WPC game!
The speaker upgrade is always a good investment, and the sounds produced from new speakers is simply awesome. I will say this: we are simply swapping out speakers from a quarter century ago and installing new ones along with introducing an external sub. Just wanted to warn you: don't expect to spend $175-$200 of speakers and expect a $3000 sounding system in a high end luxury car.
With that disclaimer out of the way, you will want to buy the following components:
1 pair of 3.5" Pyle speakers: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
1 pair of 5.25" Pyle/Lanzer speakers (the Pyles are out of stock until late June; the Lanzers are a plug and play speaker just as the Pyles):
5.25" Pyles: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080
5.25" Lanzers: http://www.parts-express.com/lanzar-mx53-5-1-4-140-watt-3-way-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-7160
For the cabinet speaker, you'll want to get a Pyramid Pro 6.5" mid-range woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-w64-6-1-2-pro-plus-midbass-woofer--290-025
There's even a user review for the Pyramid Pro saying he used it as a direct-fit replacement for his WPC pinball machine. That made me smile - whoever that was!
The external sub I use is an external Polk PSW10: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Polk+Audio+PSW10
The 6.5" cabinet speaker has two tabs for both the "+" and "-" leads (one set will be used for the wiring coming from the game's harness). I simply stripped the ends of the wire coming from the sub and alligator clipped those raw leads onto the remaining pair of leads.
All the speakers are plug and play except the 3.5" ones. For that, you'll need to do the following:
The only modification is for the 3.5" speaker. Instead of reusing the thread holes and the bolts both used to mount the factory speaker, you have to make new holes to mount the new 3.5" speaker. This is because the new 3.5" speaker is about 1" bigger in diameter then the stock speaker, so you cannot reuse the stock mounting holes.What I do is use the 2 hex screws that were originally used to mount the electrolytic capacitor near the factory speaker. I take a 1/32" drill bit to start a pilot hole for each hex head screw, and those 2 screws will hold the new speaker in just fine. For the pilot holes, do NOT drill far at all. All you need are two very small starter holes, like what you would get if you used an awl for drilling a hole in metal.
And that's that guys! Any questions, let me know!
So no capacitor is used anymore?
Quoted from Medisinyl:
With a 3.5B, I'm surprised you'd want narrower lanes and longer flippers (or have 20M average games)..unless it's to make guests happier in the short run. I've tried a BSD with regular flippers and didn't prefer it at all. I like that the game punishes bad shots and makes the good ones more rewarding. I certainly wouldn't play with 5 balls as I don't find it difficult to get 4-5 ball games with 3 balls (5 loops extra ball is very easy, and getting to level 2 on video mode isn't too hard either). Just a subjective area I suppose. Eventually I'd like to participate in tournaments and would never want to learn on a machine that is easier (control-wise) than what I'd find at an event.
Agreed
Quoted from bdaley6509:
Hi guys. New to the club. Picked up a beautiful example and when swapping out bulbs, shorted something under the playfield. Now pop bumpers, slings don't work and I get a magnet error. Fuses look ok, and from reading up it might be u20 on the cpu board. Does that sound right?
O no
Quoted from aobrien5:
MXV would be the one to answer about the programmer leaving, but there are issues that were never fixed. There is just the one release version of software - L1.
Actually papa has a rom that they made for their tournaments
That wouldn't be a"release version" but you're right. Pretty sure all it does is standardize the mystery at 500k though. Doesn't fix any bugs.
Yea k know but I hope someone can do a fix for everything. This pin is awesome imagine if everything was polished
Quoted from mizzou:
So I've run into an issue with my right mist gate. When the game boots the ball will fall out of the right mist gate (if its already in there) and fall into the trough. The game will then plunge a ball into the gate as it should but, it will hold there for a few seconds then the gate will open and the process will repeat itself. When the ball is in the gate you can hear a slight hum and it appears there is a magnet holding the ball in place and it is NOT resting against the metal side. If you fidgit with the game enough by starting a game without the ball in the right gate as it should and then physically putting a ball in there and then rebooting the game you can get the game to load as it should and play as it should. I've noticed that when the game boots and plays as it should you can hear the loud mist magnet turning below the playfield, when it doesn't there is no noise from the magnet. To make things even stranger, if you get the game to work as it should it will play through game after game with no problem. If you turn the game off and wait a few minutes and turn it on, no problems. If you leave it off for an extended period of time, such as an hour or more the problem will occur again...Any ideas what in the heck is going on? I can try to make a video of it if that will help..
I had this issue also and have helped 6 people personally after I figured it out . Its the cap on the 24 opto board starting to go bad .
Thanks! I'll check that out tomorrow...I'be got a bunch of caps from my monitor cap kits laying around. Maybe one will be the right value.
Yea just make sure the uf is correct the wattage can be higher . I believe its a 100uf cap but dont quote that lol.
Replaced the caps this morning...probably the worst hack job of a repair I've ever seen or done. Lifted two pads and had to do some jumpers with traces left over from caps....seems to be working though, so thanks!
How on earth did you ever figure out that it was the caps?
Sometimes im smart lol. I just looked at the schematics and the way it was acting and figured it had some to do with something not staying /keeping a charge bc of the way it wld work after it warmed up .I also noticed that that cap had leaked some so it needed replaced anyhow . You probably lifted the pads bc of the corrosion from the cap I know I had trouble getting the solder off bc of it . I fell bad for all the people who bought that new upgraded board for around 100 when most likely this was the fix lol. Well your number 7 that has successfully did the fix good job .
Quoted from wolfy:
Anybody have trouble with right ball gate at mist continuing to open and release ball. Game wont go into mist because there is no ball in it. I assume it is a bad opto. Thanks
Usually Capatitor on the 24 opto board . I just help ed another guy on here fix another . Thats the 8th person with same issue and capacitor fixed it.. crazy how all are drying out or leaking at the same time
Quoted from MMP:
As long as you're checking optos- had an issue with mine where the opto would not work when LEDs were in the 2 right side lamp sockets closest to the mist opto. Mine works fine only with incandescent in that spot. Easy enough to pull the 2 from the bottom for a quick check.
Sounds like it might be the capacitor though?Can you clarify which capacitor typically goes bad? I'd like to keep some on hand for the future. Thanks.
Cap c7 on the 24 opto board
Quoted from tilted81:
lost an opto, traced wire back to the 24 opto board. Yep cap fried it.. You guys musta jinxed me! Lol mine looks pretty bad so I ordered a new board hope it fixes it.. That opto's buried not looking forward to replacing it if I have too.
Y didn't you just replace the cap on old board?
Agree with just replace the cap, Big D helped me out with that $1 solution. Thanks again D
Yea I have helped quite a few people out with that one . So glad I figured that out and have saved people lots of money .
Quoted from tjprice222:
Whoops! iPhone jacked up my block quote:
Looks great!! Which LEDs did you use? I need to increase the brightness of mine around the slings. Anyone else have any recommendations for bright LEDs at the slings and general playfield illumination?
5 led towers inblue . I have no trouble seeing in complete darkness
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nos-bsd-left-ramp-for-sale-with-attached-graveyard
blockquote cite="#2792346">Looking for BSD plastic ramps - anyone seen any for sale? I can't see any repros made either. I really would have thought they would be remade already for a pin with the popularity like BSD.
That's a pretty good deal. I'd be shocked if it's not already gone.
Really? I thought it was alot but they are impossible to find so who kniws
That's a pretty good deal. I'd be shocked if it's not already gone.
Really? I thought it was alot but they are impossible to find so who knows
Quoted from MXV:
I worked there and can and have verified this and told the story numerous times over the years. It was a French distributor/operator though, not just an operator. He put them on all the games over there. He talked sales/marketing here to do it for a while and the games that were victims of them mostly suffered for it (Dr. Who, BSD, Fish Tales, though Fish Tales still earned well and sold well).
Dracula was supposed to have full sized, blood red flippers and was designed around them. It was changed when the game hit the line to those stupid lightning flippers which made an already hard game even harder and it earned less, not more. The manual even has the blood red flippers listed in the parts list as they never changed the manuals since they were already printed at that point.
How about popeye and black rose ? I heard or read that they also had them ?
I tried regular flippers but for me it made it much easier .. I like to keep it more difficult bc it dont exactly have the deepest set of rules lol.. I dont wanna get all the mb stacked together every 10 or so games bc it loses the awesome excitement if you do it to often . Can you get the blood red flippers in lighting form? I have a nice bsd but im doing a complete overhaul this winter with new plastics, clear speaker panel with color dmd , all cliffys and whatever else I can find lol. I go threw lots of pins but bsd is never leaving such a awesome pin
Quoted from MrBellMan:
I didn't think the flippers were that much smaller. I love my smaller lightning flippers! I actually bought a set of blood red flippers, to swap down the road.
Where did you find the blood red lighting flippers? I want I want lol
Quoted from NPO:
Oh they are....trust me.
With regular flipper bats, I could get 30 mils fairly regularly.
With lightnings, I think I got it 1x - in almost half a year.
Yep they definitely are and I dont want to get it all the time bc then the game will lose some of the excitement since that is like the wizard mode lol. It a simple game really, but made difficult with shorter flips .
Similar situtation like mine then. I checked also the manual, and basically I am missing the spring connecting the bracket to the gate. Probably my gate is also not original, as I do nor see the hole for the spring.
Any idea if somebody is producing parts for the left gate mechanism?
Looks like u just need a spring or something to connect it to the coil..
I see! Now it's clear. As i supposed, I am missing both the spring and the original gate with the hole for the spring.
Your gate sld work with that loop on top ...u just need something to connect it to the coil . You have any drop target springs or even a wpc flipper coil return spring may work with some modification
Quoted from smokedog:
All the connections are tight, checked that. I can hear the motor during the test.
Would an opto issue cause the magnet to never move? I just played a test game (ball was loaded when game was turned on), and in the middle of the first ball, it dropped the ball from the mist gate.
Finished the game, went into adjustments, magnet still enabled.
Out of diagnostics, ball was loaded into gate. Left in attract mode, eventually ball gets dropped from the gate.
Thinking the opto's or board need to be looked at (as per Terry's helpful video and page) ... but would that cause the magnet to never move?
Sounds like the long throw opto board . Ive personally fixed 4 boards for people and talked another 6 threw it. Seems the caps on that board are usually the culprit.
Quoted from 27dnast:
A lot of BSD play fields have a ding where the ball launches. Nice find!
I pulled mine from a home also and it has one of the nicest play fields ive seen with no damage where ball drops onto playfield. Its actually the pin ive owned the longest I believe. Great pin
Quoted from dmbjunky:
Any one have a problem with the ball coming out of the shooter lane and hitting the upper ramp? It only happens when it auto-plunges like with ball save. I cringe every time. I think it's because the ball isn't settled and the plunger fires it in the air. Any suggestions where to adjust?
Do hou have the clear plastic at the top of the ramp? Its there to stop that from happening
Thanks. I'm gonna have to find something to put there. I'm afraid it's gonna break my ramp.
U can buy the 3 piece clear plastic set somewhere bc thats what I did. It was someone on here that makes them
https://i1.pinside.com/e/ad/ead74ef8555a54d2f1fe5bbc6bb71a32d2997dd3/resized/320/ead74ef8555a54d2f1fe5bbc6bb71a32d2997dd3.png.jpg
I think this plastic should be reversed and postioned partly over the lift gate towards the front of the machine. I've seen them mounted both ways. I went back thru the thread to verify and most pics show it this way.
Yea I agree and just wanted to show op the plastic in question ...that was a stock picture I found on Google. Mine is correct on my pin
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:
just interested in a general opinion. how much would the general census pay for a fully functioning drac with pf planking, cab fad with red touchups, new plastic set, and full leds? i'd consider it an expremely routed players condition machine.
These days around 2500 pretty easily imo.
Quoted from billsfanmd:
Anyone have an extra right sling to sell. I am tempted to get the proto slings but not sure if I love them or hate them
Not a fan of the proto ones myself
Quoted from Glarrownage:
Hey guys, I'm in the middle of a restoration. I've been waiting about two years for ramps to be reproduced or to find an NOS ramp but I decided to try to use what I have for now. So I just used about half a can of butane flame polishing this thing and I'm pretty sure there is nothing more I can do with this one spot. It's right at the entry and an incandescent looks like it melted part of the ramp at some point. Is there any way to clear this up?
Looks great other than the small spot .... i doubt u will get it much better but the decals will help hide it some also
Quoted from supermatt:
From what I've read the SP play fields are less likely to plank. Not sure if it brings added value though.
Yes seems sp are the more preferred of the the 2 but no cost difference bc if u have a nice ls and it hasnt planked than i doubt it ever will now.
Quoted from weaverj:
quickie q here:
one of my pops is out. doesn't fire in test. solder looks good. should i try re-soldering anyway?
Probably the tip 102 associated with that pop bumper
bigd, stop laughing
.
I feel for u man .... reason y i take someones word on condition and workability with a grain of salt lol. I guess it cld be much worse tho so whatever ...thats pinball for u tho.
might be a problem...
Yea id say all that will need replaced. .... not super easy without correct tools and experience ..
No. I think the built-in red filter in the speaker panel puts this game on the far back burner.
I have a clear panel waiting .....
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:
So,
I was looking at the BSD Dracula speaker panel. Shouldn't there be a way to make a clear version of this for the color dmd?
There is one and i have it waiting and may just put it in as sigma now. Pretty sure the flasher board will fit still also just fine
I wasn't aware of the color issue when I ordered it, but saw it noted here before it arrived. Mine does have the purple, but it doesn't look bad at all on the machine, and unnoticeable during play. Still better than the somewhat foggy panel I had before.
Also, the LED ColorDMD is very impressive and has way more pop/definition than the LCD screens IMO (I'd gladly get LED again for certain machines, but I like the smoothing option on the LCD too). Just with the new LED screen set on red, I see more detail than I realized was in the dots (compared to the original setup as it was). Had I known it would look so good, I would have wanted it without the impending color
Really? I like the option for ganes like cv with no other option but to me it looks about the same as original plasma but with color and actually a little less details due to it being led dots. I like that its brighter but its to brite imo and i much perfer the lcd on dots xl ..... good to have options tho so thats all that matters.
Quoted from KornFreak28:
Who makes this awesome blue lights on the slings?
[Image/post mismatch]
I used the tower 5smd blue Comet bulbs.... work great and you can see great . I usually dont like color in gi but for bsd it works well imo.
That looks awesome! Are all you leds comet? Thanks
The pics suck but you get the idea lol. Yep all Comet bulbs 1smd/2smd color matched for inserts and i used the blue 5 smd tower for lower playfield then gradually went from purple to pink to red 1 and 2 smds frosted.
Wow!!! Did you order a kit for this? Are the backglass leds whites or colored?
No kits for me i buy bulk from comet and try tons of combinations till i find one that looks great. I can take a pick of backbox bulb colors another day if you want to copy it...
Rob Bell had a pretty good layout for backglass led colors. Did you use the same layout BigD? There's a pic of his layout towards the start of this thread.
Nope just went with what i thought looked the best im sure most people do similar things tho with slight variances here and there....
First of all congrats for the work done, it is really excellent. I can see your great love for the hobby and for the themes. About the green color, I did not say I do not like the type of green chosen. For the technology available, I think you did a terrific job. What I am saying is that the technolgy is limiting: only 16 color per frame I guess do not allow for nuances and shades.. Also the definition of the dots is super pixellated, thats also its charm, but do not allow for nuances. What I am saying is that I am not a fan of coloring dots in general. Very personal opinion of course! Maybe it can produce nice effects on certain themes, but for the misty, dark feeling of this theme I think monocolor is more charmy.
I totally agree with you for MSF: bad implementation of the theme. Actually, considering the market for pinball I think that an implementation done so beautifully as BSD is a kind of miracle. Usually machines were produced for arcades, for young people having fun in an easy going, shallow type of atmosphere. So all themes are usually developed in a very commercial, non-deep, playful way. The movie by Coppola itself is very unusual for an Hollywood production, as it looks somehow more like an independent movie, which is exactly the type of movies I watch. I wish all licensed pinball machines were developed from independent movies, but thats impossible for obvious commercial reasons.
Regarding MB: I know its humorous, but thats exactly what I really avoid at all cost in pinball. I really do not like "humourous" machines!! When a read "great calls", "great humor" in pinball reviews, I know I have to run away immediately: not for me. Of course I can appreciate something light, as fluffy the vampire or the extra ball in BSD, thats great! But a machines entirely based on funny calls, no way! I bought RFM and that is the biggest regret by far. Thanksfully I managed to get rid of that piece of shit after 3 days, and that was the biggest relief ever! Funny calls, but what to do with funny calls after 20 games??? (If you ask me, that is not even a pinball machine: its a total failure, gameplay is shit - I respect the attempt to move on, but it failed brutally). In terms of theme implementation MB looks also very plastic, very cheap, very childish. I wonder how people can spend big money for such an horrendous piece of plastic.
About TZ you are super spot on and I totally agree! I own it and love it all, excluding the soundtrack. Of course after playing a game zillion times you get used to anything, even to crap. But I really think that rock music in general is probably the music style more far away from the TZ atmospheres. Basically any other genres would have been a better choice. I created my own personal soundtrack with Pinsound: deep house and some funky tunes (my favourite music genres). They are also not perfectly fitting the theme (well, deep house fits imho! but still much better than rock music.
Most people including myself love the humor in pinball and its missing in modern pins which y i dont care for them lol. Also the pieces of humor plastic shit your referring to is one of the most sought after and expensive pins made lol.
Well, if the humor is subtle and not all over the place, I agree. Modern pins (post 2000) looks horrible to me. Pieces of plastic. Not even considering them. But I think things started to worsen badly with WPC95. I really do not believe people pay silly money for horrible stuff like MB, SS, CC and more...
The wpc 95 pins are the most sought after in most cases and have the highest prices here in the us so yea...... i love them and have recently been collecting them also and absolutely love them and i own tz, bsd . I sold many wpc 89 and wpc s to get the wpc95 pins. They just have great toys and better code , lighting, rules also due to double the higher capacity cpu capability. Believe its double from the prior wpc boardset.
Quoted from allsportdvd:
I'm having a small problem with my castle lock. If I have a ball locked in there and get "Bats" then 2 balls escape before the post comes back up.
Does anyone have a solution here? Hoping it's an easy fix
Thanks in advance
Take apart the mechanism and clean everything....
Thanks Bryan! Nice of you to chime in
What do you think about the Mist light? It just doesn't turn on. Thanks!
Didu try changeing the bulb? Are the wires connected well?
Guys I'm ordering among other stuff, black lightning flippers. Do any of you know the exact size for the rubber needed for these flippers? First time owning a pin with lightning flippers.....Thanks!
Standard flipper rubbers...
Quoted from Its_me_aj:
so I have mist issues I can't get figured out no matter what I do or how much reading I have done. I have put 2 homepin boards in, aligned the optos, taken all the gi lighting out, removed gates, cleaned everything, and still can't get my mist to work correctly. Sometimes the magnet unload errors out and every time the check opto 1 errors. I seriously don't know what else to do to get the game working properly again.
Can u take a pic of your fliptronics board? The c2 cap or lack there of can cause a issue with mist magnet.
What is it doing? I put a new Homepin board in yesterday, and my mist ball STOPPED working right. The game, on startup, would just endlessly dump the mist ball. Everytime it went into the shooter lane, the game would just fire it INTO the playfield and not the mist ball holding area.
Changed my board back to factory, and all is good. Did this 2 times just to make sure, and yep, bad Homepin board.
First time ever for me.
Great info NPO! Why did you change the board if the factory one was good tho?
Some people think new boards are better and bullet proof things..... i actually get rid of aftermarket boards bc i tend to have more issues with them lol. I only use aftermarket if i absolutely have no other options....
I just sent my power driver board to Chris Hibler for a complete upgrade and also sent my MPU for NVRAM install. I always like to do that with machines I plan on keeping
Yep we have some great people on this forum that can make your boards really reliable.
BTW, what is the non-ghosting version we were discussing the other day? Might as well have Chris install it now that he has the board for nvram
Theres a ng patch that some people are capable of putting in the rom. It made a big difference in my pin for sure. Definitely worth asking about...
So I'll vouch and say I have actually SEEN this be the case. Note this post from 2 years ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only?tu=npo#post-1872865
My castle lock optos were reading out of order. If I recall correctly, they were triggering 2-1-3 instead of 1-2-3. I knew there was no way the wires just magically "swapped places" on the optos. I ordered the new board as I had heard great things about them, and sure enough, my optos triggered in the correct sequence at that point.
Seeing is believing, and that was all I needed to be sold.
Unfortunately, now the new board is faulty; however....
Think if I hadn't just installed this board and my mist ball circuit started acting up. I'd be installing a faulty unit into my game, and then I'd really be chasing my tail. No thanks.
So, at the end of the day, yes, I do buy boards to keep my games sound. I'd rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it.
YMMV.
Really wasn't directed towards u really... just in general that lots people buy new boards when the old can be gone over and made just as reliable or better than new ones. I have had many rd boards not work well with wpc pins so i sold them and bought oem ones. Ive also fixed quite a few bsd 24opto boards for pe8 and they have been fine for years...including mine. Nothing wrong with buying nee ones but i perfer originals as i can fix them in most cases.
I wish I had the original. When I bought the game it already had a Homepin in it. After hearing such good things about the Homepin, I'd figure I'd try another to see if it would fix my issues.
U see my post about the fliptronics board? Does yours have a c2 cap?
Did you mean C7 on the 24" opto board?
Some fliptronics boards are missing the c2 cap (not sure why) and it has been found that bsd mist works better if it has that cap....
Quoted from o-din:
Who else has the shameless credit dot for the left ball pocket opto? Mine only seems to go away when guests play it, and it doesn't take but a few plays for it to come back.
Yep bc agood player will get mist almost all the time.... which then the game thinks there is a issue bc that switch/opto hasn't been hit in a certain amount of games ....
Quoted from Elicash:
Hello friends. I have been on the hunt for a BSD. May have found one and looking for some pricing advice. What is a fair price for one with
- Fully working, no credit dot.
- solid pf, no planking major wear, or raised inserts. Sounds like it has wear common from ball launch in loop
- typical cabinet fade, a couple dings to back box
I may be making offer without seeing in person, so what are some typical pitfalls or troublesome issues i should ask about with this title?
Thanks,
2500-2700...
I wouldn't make an offer without seeing some pictures first. Just going by what you said, I would offer 2,500 or so. I wouldn't rush it tho....not with a BSD
Agreed... ive never bought sight unseen and wont...
Quoted from scottmaggie:
Just letting everyone know that I had the issue where the right gate doesn't stay open and that adding the 100uf 100v cap to C2 on the fliptronics board DID in fact fix the issue. The right gate now stays open long enough for the return ball.
Note I changed the 100uf 10v C1 cap too.
That's what i was trying to say many posts ago.... thax
Those protectors at great at ruining the cabinet art under them.
They are fine on screened cabs....
Oh yeah! Mine are screened!
Yep most original b/w art was up till mm i believe ...
i hate to ask this, because i know it can be an annoying topic, but what about the backbox? i feel like color matching is always tough, but it doesn't look too difficult on this one. i was also thinking of just switching to all warm white. the natural white waters down the reds and oranges pretty bad. that would be the easiest thing to try.
Heres mine.... looks excellent in person...make sure u use frosted in backbox also.
20161217_020831.jpg
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20161222_020240.jpg20161222_020240.jpg
Those look great! Thanks for remembering my post!
Rob Bell
Robsgameroom.com
Actually pretty sure mine has a fair amount of differences
Took long time of tweaking the colors and getting them where i wanted...even made purple frosted bendable leds to get the color where i wanted lol. It really pops in person. Only one not frosted is the red behind the sun bc i wanted it more direct and only behind the sun
It looks great and that's all that matters!
As usual pics dont do it any justice
A requirement on this title. Absolutely awesome - especially the mist ball animation and the castle/coffin jackpots - holy smokes.
Agreed...my favorite color title...looks great
Do you have an OCD board? My BSD came with comets in the inserts but they ghost bad. Castle Jackpot is constantly blinking even though it's not lit.
U need a patched rom.... made a huge difference on mine .....
Thanks I'll check with John Wart
Are there other games with ROMs for LEDs? Why is LED OCD even an option if you can just patch a ROM.
Totally different things..... the ocd boards smooth out leds so they can fade slowly like incandescents. Yes i get patched roms for most pins that were made before 1995 . I believe most home roms have the patch in them allready but all others(prior 1995) will need the patch .
I LED'ed my BSD with no OCD or patched ROM.
Definitely not a issue, but certain inserts will be dimly lit when they are not supposed to be without the ng patch..... just annoying but doesn't affect the gameplay really...the brighter the led the more u can notice
same. i've never really noticed much of anything with any of my wpc's, even with the cheap comet bulbs. just turn the power save setting off in the adjustments. now my RBION is a different story.
Maybe your pins allready have the patched rom, but when i had jd, ft and bsd i got the patched rom bc the ghosting was annoying especially when it can b fixed with a cheap rom.
Not really bc dimly/lightly flickering inserts are annoying to look at imoand can confuse my non pinball friends on what to shoot for. Why not get rid of it for a 10.00 rom? Just makes the playfield insert lighting that much better imo. . Depending on how bright the leds u use are the insert can almost look lit when its not supposed to . I use 1@2 smd leds and they are pretty noticeable on certain inserts and games.
LOL. "Confuse my non pinball friends on what to shoot for"???? My friend, non pinball friends can't even figure out how to press start let alone even realize that a game has specific things they need to shoot for...
Truth
Guess my friends are much smarter than yours then lol.... they come by a good bit and end up playing , so they know whats going on. Most people know to shoot for the blinking lights (or at least id hope so) and when things are blinking that are not supposed to be things dont happen .
Like I said my castle jackpot light blinks all of the time and as bright as the rest of the inserts. So I appreciate the heads up on the ROM.
Yes sir.. so did mine which is y i wanted the ng patch. Maybe some of the others that posted it doest bother , but in most cases its worth the cheap fix.....
Well... not sure about that. Smarts are variable, I guess. My friends (the vast majority fall in the "non pinhead" category) could care less about pins, let alone blinking lights. All are surprised that a game has rules, let alone realizing that there are blinking lights
Yep all my friends i grew up with really dont care but it seems when they come over thats where they end up lol. I just tell them to aim for the blinking lights and what the game tells u to and they seem to have lots of fun. I think eventually some may be interested in purchasing a pin which is awesome. Also lots of family over this week and they were very impressed with the pins and many other things after i explained things to them. Cld be our friends are drastically different ages who knows.... i was joking about the smarter thing in case u didn't see the lol...
I don't have this issue at all and there's no chance my game has the patched ROM. Did you turn off the power save setting like 27dnast mentioned?
That Has nothing to do with inserts ghosting with leds. Only thing that setting is for is the attract mode gi . I actually dont have a issue with my game but have been many places to play and noticed alot of ghosting so i mentioned the fix to those people and they are much happier now.
I'm not doubting at all that the ROM fix will make things better for people having a problem, I just wonder if that's the /only/ solution. FWIW, my LEDs are from CoinTaker.
Theres lots of things u can do but the most cost effective and quickest fix is a patched rom....
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:
What's the best rom to be using nowadays? I have seen the ROM that fixes the loss of bonus on a tilt warning. Is that the best one and where could I find that?
I believe there is only 1 rom? I have the L-1 with ng patch. I believe papa has one for tournaments but no official release
Quoted from robotron:
who got the bsd from coin op warehouse for 2600? just wondering if it was nice cause they only posted one pic and you hardly saw the playfield.
It was faded white and definitely not worth 2600 especially with no playfield pics...
Quoted from dudah:
That's pretty much every sale from coinop warehouse. In less than 5 minutes from posting also.
Yep i live basically right beside them and have never bought anything for a reason...... i can get much better condition pins for cheaper than what they sell that crap for lol.
Man, I hate how much I love this game, and I love how much I hate it. Played 4 games where I got Castle MB - only got 1 jackpot. About lost my shit each time until I finally heard that wonderful ear-piercing scream.
I swear, that to me is more satisfying than 30 millions. The Castle JP never, ever gets old.
Agreed .... my favorite thing to get for sure.....
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Hagerstown, MD
cool video thax
