(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

8 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

32 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (8 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (8 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (8 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (8 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (8 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (8 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (8 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (7 years ago)

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#2221 6 years ago

I'm in! there are right and left magnet errors, and right ramp has 'up' error, although both coil for up and down work and lock ramp up or down. any ideas? about to tear it down and go over all optos/switches.

1 week later
#2245 5 years ago

lovin' this game right now, and I can't wait til' it's 100% dialed in


1 week later
#2259 5 years ago

I just ordered a new 10 opto board and a new magnet motor. frogs snacks!

#2278 5 years ago
Quoted from Mister_Swede:

I had all opto lost it was the Bridge rectifier and the 15uq cap for 12 volt

hmm, kind of a stand still here and trying to get this machine playing. currently all optos are getting 12 volts and all transmitters are working (checked beam with cell phone).

I am getting row 6 ground error (white/blue J209-7, U19-9). this includes switches L drop score (only opto I can't seem to register in switch mode), top 3 lane middle target, left return, oto crypt popper (which register in switch test), left 3 bank top target, and middle 3 bank target left.

Here is what I find, I get 12 volt at J209, I get 12 volt at 10 opto board as well.
what's interesting is when I pull the power connector from J209 to the 10 opto board, all row 6 errors are resolved (on matrix grid), and the rollover switches in row 6 now work.

It seems as if the resistors (R1-7, and R25, 28, and 31) run VERY hot, so hot that you can feel the heat on top of the PF after only 5-10 mins of being powered up. I have a new 10 opto board on the way (2 months out), and was considering replacing all 10 resistors on the 10 opto board to see if this would resolve this issue? The resistors are rated at 220 ohms, 2W, 1/2W.

I have replaced optos (transmitters and receivers) as necessary, and fixed some pinched wires and cold solders as well throughout the machine.

edit, I have inspected all switches in this row/matrix, and can't find anything shorting.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

#2288 5 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Sounds like the 10-opto board is bad. I would think the hot resistors are more likely a result of the board problem rather than the cause of the problem. Most likely the LM339 is defective.

ya, that's what I assumed and ordered one. I was hoping I could repair this original board and have the other for a spare thanks

#2298 5 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

After a couple of months of down time I have my BSD almost 100%. I have sorted out the issue with the HV coil line, cleared up the switch errors, have a new Mist Motor on order. All that remains is the rumbling and grumbling going on at the back of the PF. Trying to sort out if it is the up down diverter or ramp. I can't wait to get this going 100%. It was a bit more of a train wreck than I bargained for when I picked it up, but well worth the struggle.

i'm right with you, bought mine without 1 gameplay. I have yet to see the mist toy work, had to buy a new motor to install (left/right magnet errors), and waiting on a replacement opto board. major time/shopping/parts later and i'm getting close to seeing the FIRST mist on the machine hopefully soon.

here's my newly rebuilt 'turbo' pop bumpers and my led graveyard mod .

P1020825.JPG P1020834.JPG
#2300 5 years ago

thanks, easy 15$ Comet 2 7led purple led strip mod.
kind of looks pink/purple, but whatever, I enjoy it

#2307 5 years ago
Quoted from Blenderhead:

In the pic, the graveyard appears to have an orange glow, does it look orange(ish) in person?

its more of a light purple/pink tone in person, resulting from the graveyard mold color. the purple leds are actually really purple

Quoted from nerdygrrl:Wow ballsofsteel, that graveyard mod is pretty epic. I absolutely love it!
Yeah, I bought the BSD as not working-unfortunately the person before the guy I bought it from hacked the heck out of things. So nothing has been easy. Once I get this grinding thing sorted I feel all will be well and then I can shop it out and you know, maybe play it.

ya, its hard not being able to play this gem, i'm getting it dialed in for location . i'm pretty sure I have replace almost all coil sleeves on this as well, ug.

#2309 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

I put green under the graveyard, like the green mist when Mina 'encounters' the beast.

I like the green. I have mine synched to the rear left g.i. .

#2328 5 years ago

had my mist MB work for the first time this machine has seen in a while i'm assuming today (new motor and gear). Super pumped up to see the ball go across the field! then the custom welds on the ball shooter bracket broke off..prrrrt. this machine is going to play like new with all of the new parts and money I've put into it. now i just need to mail in the opto board for repairs, and wait for a new opto board kit, then i'll have a backup for the short optos.

#2342 5 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Oh my god, it works! Sadly my plunger is down again, but the mist multi ball works. First time since I have owned the game.

it's a beautiful thing isn't it?

as soon as I got mine working I took out both opto boards and mailed them to Clive . hahaha

#2345 5 years ago

I was hoping someone could take a picture of the knocker coil wiring on their drac for me in the backbox? my entire assembly was missing, and I can't find the schematics for this.

thanks !

#2347 5 years ago

thanks nerdygirl, I don't have the original coil or harness to reference. From you pics I can't really tell which terminal the 2 thicker violet/yellow wires go to and the single wire goes to? It look's like the 2 violet/yellow wires go to the red wire (coil harness) to the right terminal?

thanks for taking the time for the pics! .

#2349 5 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

The two purple with yellow trace wires are live and go to the red. The purple with black trace is negative and goes to the negative.

yes I understand that, I was asking to which terminal on the coil (left side or right side) does the red wire and the black wire from the connector go to. I do not have a connector coming from my coil to attach to.

1 week later
#2428 5 years ago

ya, wrong tip. also, I just learned I am missing that plastic piece..ug. lol

#2443 5 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

When I reinstalled my launch coil I noticed it made contact with my cabinet flipper switches and took them out.

this. mine was doing the same, so i replaced a welded hack coil mounting bracket and coil (had bad overheated terminal posts from previous 'hack' repairs as well). Now I no longer have contact with that right flipper button against the coil.

#2451 5 years ago

who cares

#2461 5 years ago


I finally got my repaired 10 and 24 opto boards back from coin op cauldron. this eliminated my row 6 ground error (and mist opto issues). now I am trying to dial in this custom copper left gate (what a joke) and dial in the right gate and ball guide.
as of now I'm getting random 2 balls into the right gate, I'm thinking the ball isn't resting correctly or is moving during gameplay to trigger another ball into the stage area (long optos). as per this thread, I have and will continue to adjust the ball guide in the right staging area. I am also trying to figure out why the left ball gate coil doesn't open before the magnet begins to move and pull the ball, resulting in the ball being stuck in the left gate. I'm assuming this is because of the left magnet motor switch arm adjustment (lots of previous bends and hacks everywhere on every switch). lots of fine adjustment on this game I am learning. I will shit myself if I can finally play a game on this machine.

all mist tests, optos, and solenoids working in test mode. I'm starting to think my dirty harry playfield swap was a walk in the park compared to getting this machine working.....

#2463 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

If the ball is in the left pocket, the coil does NOT open the gate when moving the ball from left to right. The only time it opens is at the last second when the ball is going from right to left. The left gate should open freely at all times (with your finger), because it's just being held by a spring.

so the only driver for pulling the ball from the left gate is the magnet? I could have sworn the left gate coil opens the gate a second after the motor and magnet start to operate. I will be spending the rest of the night trying to resolve this. thanks aobrien.

#2465 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

It is supposed to open, but it's still just the magnet that takes it out and I'd be surprised if the gate held it in. Does the magnet enable and the motor run?

ya, new motor for magnet, rebuilt opto boards, replaced all optos (transceiver and recievers) everywhere that needed. all work in 'magnet' test, except the ball doesn't get pulled out from left gate (magnet begins to pull ball out of left gate, but not past it, then the left get coil triggers the gate but too late). like I said, I have this 'custom' copper left gate that is problematic (not constructed correctly). also, the left motor switch is super bent toward the center of pf, I think i'll bend it back. need to figure out why the ball doesn't always stage in the right mist area as well (when loaded from shooter lane ball sometimes rests against the entry gate and the far right side of the ball guide). like I said, so many fine adjustments I figure to get things working. thanks for taking your time to assist a fellow pinhead.

#2467 5 years ago

I would like to thank all of the pinsiders that have contributed to tech information along this thread. I have owned this machine for 2-3 months, and an finally getting super close to having this machine dialed in

if anybody is making custom left copper ball gate switches I am willing to purchase.

thanks people

#2470 5 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

Nice one of the purest shot games out there

agree! had it playing last night

Quoted from aobrien5:Yeah, if the left motor switch isn't releasing soon enough, that's probably what's keeping the gate from opening on time.
Can you get the long opto to trigger in switch test with a ball in the right gate? Bang on PF, rattle things around, etc. Also, get out your cell phone camera and see if you can see the opto beam around the ball where it sits in the right pocket.

adjusted the left magnet motor switch, that fixed the left gate release issue. After gameplay last night, I had a friend watch the staged ball in the right gate (as I was having random ball plunge into the stage area resulting in 2 balls in right mist gate). it seems that when i'd nudge the machine during gameplay, the single ball would move and get hung up between the entry gate and the far right side of the ball guide, resulting in the long opto not being closed. still making adjustments to get this resolved.

awesome man! thanks a million.

#2473 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:

Awesome! I ordered one also! Sounds like if that left gate ever breaks it's very difficult to locate or make a new one. Game is pretty much dead in the water without it.

ya, I had to order 2 to justify another International parts order

#2484 5 years ago

I'd suggest nothing less than super bright whites for the flipper slings. I don't know how people can see the ball with purple/blues in those GI's.

1 week later
#2513 5 years ago
Quoted from goatdan:

Yup, that one.
Is it only sold from Australia, or do any US sellers carry it? I'm in no rush, just curious.

send your board into Clive at coin-op cauldron. great service and return time (you don't have to wait 3 months for the 'kit' from homepin.

1 week later
#2538 5 years ago

I finally got around to re-watching the movie the other night and noticed some interesting facts for sound/callouts in the pinball.

I noticed that all of Anthony Hopkins (Van Helsing) callouts for coffin mb in the game didn't sound like him? anybody else notice this? it seems as if they had somebody else record the same callouts, as maybe they couldn't get the rights for Hopkins?

I noticed that all of draculas callouts sound like Gary Oldman, and Keanu Reeves callouts are Keanu.

just strange that they would have most of the actors in the machine, but not Hopkins? anybody?

#2539 5 years ago

bueller, bueller, bueller. ferris bueller

#2541 5 years ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

I'm pretty sure that's Hopkins, but for whatever reason it sounds muffled

interesting, I think i'll record the movie clips and the machine callouts and compare.

2 months later
#2646 5 years ago

looks like a keeper NPO, are you going to hang onto this one?

#2680 5 years ago

thanks jeremiah! looking forward to the upgrade. may your super jackpots be plentiful!

2 weeks later
#2748 5 years ago


your drac looks great man, I hope you are enjoying it!

3 weeks later
#2793 5 years ago

would somebody please take the time for a photo for all 3 pop bumper leaf/EOS switch wiring? I am getting a ground 1 short error report and a wire is off a terminal and I have tried every option possible. thanks.

#2796 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

You can sorta see the colors of all 3. Does this help at all? If not I'll try to get a better one.

thanks Glarrow..can you take individual pics of the left, bottom, and right EOS switch wires for the pops? I have a jumper wire from the right pop bumper that piggy backs to either the lower bottom pop or to the left pop. i'll take pics if this doesn't make any sense. thanks.

edit, not anything to do with the solenoid wiring, just the switches

#2799 5 years ago
Quoted from Glarrownage:

flip the game around on my rotisserie.

I don't know if you have to get that crazy. I would just need individual pics of the wiring to each terminal for each pop bumper switch. thanks for taking your time!


#2800 5 years ago

ok, so the big question is where does the yellow wire (attached to the 2 green/blue wires, 3 total wires on the terminal) on your final 3rd picture connect to? this is the wire I need to re-solder...thanks again brother

#2802 5 years ago

yeup, makes sense, that's how I figured it was supposed to be..now its time to get serious I suppose . thanks for your pictures and time.

#2805 5 years ago

things are getting interesting....seeing ground row short error, check fuses 114 and 115 (switch matrix fuse). 3/4 slow amp is blowing at power up.

10 months later
#3424 4 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

I've had a heck of a time finding LEDs that go into this type of Slot. My Comet Ghostbusting LEDS and PinbalLife LEDS don't seem to want to fit. Anyone know of a trick?

buy a 'flex' led, then you can adjust it to fit the insert

2 weeks later
#3469 4 years ago

just interested in a general opinion. how much would the general census pay for a fully functioning drac with pf planking, cab fad with red touchups, new plastic set, and full leds? i'd consider it an expremely routed players condition machine.

7 months later
#4253 4 years ago

sorry to get off topic, quick technical question. I have been working on a dracula for some people that was in storage for 10 years or so, and was in a humid environment. The boards have been untouched, and the game has hardly seen any play. i noticed one of the Batteris had minimally leaked down a few resisitors and one chip. I replaced the batteries, cleaning the battery holder and thought (lets give it a shot). After cleaning and address some minor mechanical issues to get the game playing, and running diagonists i finally got no credit dots, and we played some games (all switches and coils worked in test mode, the mist and all castle optos were fine).

After they had played it for a couple hours, i guess the shit hit the fan. The machine now has opto failures (even though they work in test mode) as well as the castle ball divertor coil not firing (getting power via multi meter). Also, the callouts are there, but the background music isn't . like i said, everything was working prior, could it be correct to assume that the machine 'was' working prior to the battery leak, then after a few hours the corrision caused these failures ?


WPC_Dracula_MPU (resized).jpg

#4255 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

How did you clean it? Vinegar and then rubbing alcohol is the right way. It's hard to get under the chips as that usually keeps eating away at stuff. First try a different CPU to see if it's the opto board. Then I'd replace your U20.

honestly, all i cleaned up was the contact point on the battery holder. ironically enough, the machine isn't factory resetting. I have backup U14-U20 chips. I considered swapping out my Dracula MPU, but i think i will just send the board to Clive (unless he won't accept it) or i'll have to replace that chip under the resistors. thanks for the advice, DNO had some great opinions as well. My next concern is the music, would this corrision result in losing the background music or would the audio board and/or sound chips need to be addressed as well?

#4261 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Just start with reseating the 4 connector ribbon cable at each board connection...top left MPU to Fliptronix board to sound board to the DMD controller board.
No. The battery damage is affecting your switches, not your sound.

thanks, i was thinking that as i will have the owners purchase some replacement ribbon cables anyways from minnesota here on pinside. the display was garbled, reseated them fixed it, but that comes back too. might as well replace them all at this point.

4 months later
#4635 3 years ago

i was wondering if anyone has replaced their MPU board with a rottendog aftermarket? i have one on order and will be installing it next week, and was just interested in feedback. My original is finally toast, too much humidity corrision on all of the U chip legs finally has taken its toll.

1 year later
#6334 1 year ago
Quoted from tomtest:

mist motor runs continuously and reverses at the ends but doesn't stop

pretty sure there's a home leaf switch at the end of the tract, might need adjusting when it comes back to home.

Quoted from tomtest:

magnet drops the ball 1/3 of the way thru it's travel

probably the long opto transmitter and/or receiver, or the opto board might be having problems. if the optos are mounted too high or low across from another, they won't work...its a long opto beam. also, the copper gates might need adjusting so that they don't block it...lots of fine tuning.

Quoted from tomtest:

machine on the shooter lane ramp does not go up in order to shoot the ball up into the right side gate

could be related to the home switch on the magnetic track, or mist opto issues. the entire mist multiball system is kind of a PIA. I'm thinking one of those switches that isn't working for you is the fault for triggering the coil. have you tried to test the machine with the mist service test?

that's what i have for you, hope it helps. i haven't had to deal with my mist problems for 3 years THANK GOD.

1 week later
#6373 1 year ago

try the test mode 'magnet'. that goes through all the required testing for successful mist operation. you will see what fails in a specific order, which should give you a lead to what is failing.

2 weeks later
#6453 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Found a new issue . Some mounts somewhere under the right castle lock are not correct. Anyone have a map of post lengths under the right ramp return?

the hex posts underneath the sculpture are wrong or not there, nothing wrong with the ball return guide. hell you could add spacers for a quick fix to the support posts under it to get the clearance. sorry, i do not know the lengths of them.

3 months later
#6909 1 year ago
Quoted from NPO:

I'd buy the board to "know" that is covered.. Worst case: you have a nice new updated board to replaced a 25+ year old board.

you can always send the original opto board in for repairs and upgrades to any board tech for probably 30-50$ as well. i did that, was happy after i bailed and got a refund for that horrible replacement board HomePin or whatever that australian/china company name is.

3 weeks later
#6939 1 year ago

i don't think you could buy a dracula that plays well without a credit dot for less than 3k these days.

4 months later
#7220 10 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

pinhome makes the replacement board, right?

don't touch that with a 10 foot pole. i ordered and paid for it, 3 months later nothing received and it was a kit to be soldered by the purchaser. he did give me a refund though.

just send the opto board in for repairs to chris hibler, costs maybe $50 and worth it.

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