(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

6 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (6 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (6 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (6 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (6 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (6 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (6 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (6 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (6 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (6 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (6 years ago)

Post #416 Plunger rebuild parts. Posted by vintage4life (6 years ago)

Post #483 Gameplay / Instruction cards Posted by tilted81 (6 years ago)

Post #563 Playfield Protector Posted by phishrace (6 years ago)

Post #677 Mystery Hole rewards Posted by Jodester (5 years ago)

Post #701 Coffin Ramp Rejecting fix - Clear plastic under headstone Posted by 27dnast (5 years ago)

Post #890 Pinball Rebel Instruction cards Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #958 Mounting the prototype plastics Posted by Drano (5 years ago)

Post #975 Mist Gate Troubleshooting Posted by Bryan_Kelly (5 years ago)

Post #1002 Making a Left Mist Gate? - Click the link Posted by aobrien5 (5 years ago)

Post #1065 BSD Shop Out Guide Posted by gtown (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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554 posts in this topic match your search for posts by aobrien5. You are on page 1 of 3.
#715 5 years ago

There's a BSD owner's club? whoo! I'm in!

The Castle opto is the Altar/Rats hole - I just had my transmitter there go out.
Pretty sure the coffin has an opto in the same place, just above the coil.

I'll have to look for these plastic slide rails, because I don't remember seeing those.

#719 5 years ago

Does anybody have that how to shop a BSD pdf from page 1? Would you please repost it or send it to me?

Thanks

1 week later
#752 5 years ago

so I'm going to be doing a shop job in the near future any consensus on which rubber to use - black or white? Is there a big difference? Pretty sure it shipped with black?

#756 5 years ago

I read somewhere it was originally black and ipdb shows black. Is one more springy?

#758 5 years ago

ah, well, Drac could use a little less bounce sometimes, so maybe black would be better.

#768 5 years ago

2 things. Finally got to 30 Millions today for the first time!! Was cruising along and then... I tilted out of it.

Actual question. On some screens I appear to have a credit dot, and others I don't. I know my top left drop switch is sketchy, but that usually causes a full-on dot with a Test Report. I do not get a Test Report right now. I'm pretty sure it was always clean before.

IMAG0327.jpg IMAG0328.jpg
1 month later
#830 5 years ago

So I started tearing down the playfield today to shop my Drac and look what I found! How in the world did that get there??

Also, I remember someone asking about the lengths of the posts for the coffin setup. There are 4 posts that have very close lengths. Anyone still interested in that information while I have it apart?

IMAG0391.jpg
#835 5 years ago

Next question! What in the world are these wires for? I've noticed them before, and they've never been hooked up. I'd love to use them as my connection into the GI circuit for lighted flipper buttons. I'm pretty sure they're green/black and white/red, but I'm partially color blind, soo....

Anyway, they're in the same bundle as the ones for the start button. Potentially important info - my machine is a re-import.

Thanks

edit: you can't see because my hand is in the way, but they both have push connectors on the end.

IMAG0431-410.jpg

#839 5 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

they go on the start button. they are for the light .look at the switch there is two spade connection blades on the sides. joe

My start button already has 4 wires on it and the light works fine.

#841 5 years ago
Quoted from shock_me:

Those wires are for the door audits switch I believe. I don't see it on your door in that picture though. Maybe it was removed, mine was missing too.

Ok, I don't even know what that is. Like an audit menu entry for when the door is opened/closed?

#843 5 years ago
Quoted from Kcpinballfan:

Audit for amount of plays I assume

Ahh... I'm pretty sure my machine does not count plays. Anywhere I can look for more info on replacing that switch? I never noticed a bracket with nothing attached or anything like that.

Thanks for the newb help.

#849 5 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

hi aobrien5,i looked on my game those wires connect to the coin door interlock switch. joe

Thanks Joe, it looks like I may be missing that, too.

Quoted from TaylorVA:

for lighting up the flipper buttons you can just use coin door interface board. You can easily piggy back onto the existing IDC or make a connector to plug into one of the non used pins if the pins are on the board. This is how I have always done it.

Taylor, you're saying to just punch a second wire down directly on top of the wires going to the coin door lights? That would certainly make it easy.

Thanks

#854 5 years ago

You're lucky, you've just got a broken right gate, which is available. The left gate is not available.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7064

#857 5 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Most gates are not that difficult to make out of flat stock and wire.
Robert

That's true, as long as you have something to compare it to. Took me lots of trial and error to fabricate my own left gate.

1 week later
#890 5 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

Thank you, on pinballrebel there are much good cards, but not this one
Mike

It looks like these to me: http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/bsdset.zip

Quoted from ModCity:

This shop job is complicated enough as it is, I don't need the manual throwing curve balls at me too!

Be careful, there are several things in the manual that are not accurate. Mislabeled part numbers, missing diagram indicators for lights, etc.

#893 5 years ago

Nice pic, very artsy! I can't play in the dark myself, hurts my eyes.

#895 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

do you have LEDs?

Yes I do

#899 5 years ago

Unfortunately I don't, but my decals look similar so if you do get it done I'd love a copy of the file!

#908 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Once I'm done with mine, I'll have the original Sun Process playfield for sale along with a bunch of parts.

Can I have your left mist gate wire?

#909 5 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

I am looking at one of these. What would one be worth with a good playfield (needs cleaning and shop job) broken middle plastic and one broken sling plastic, but trashed cab. The cab is faded with dings on the sides and the front of the cab has major damage from an operators lock down bar. What would it be worth? Keep in mind I live in Canada and we pay a big premium for pins up here. Thanks.
Edit: A professional pinball advisor up here told me $1600 - $1800, I trust he is correct just seeing what the world thinks

If the cab is that trashed and everything else workse, he's probably about right.

#934 5 years ago
Quoted from Snowyetti:

Here it is done mostly LEDs backbox as well went with blue ,purple ,red,couple yellow fresh rubs and a good tear down cleaning well worth it plays like a new game

Looks good! Does your backbox look that washed out in real life, or is that just the pictures? That's the only place without LEDs on my machine.

#936 5 years ago
Quoted from Raven2012:

Can anyone help me what to do with those error messages..

The castle opto's are the ones on the wireform where the Castle Lock balls sit. All three of them being out sounds like a wiring issue. Make sure they're plugged in. I'm not sure which is the opto TL popper, but that's most likely your rats hole or the return from the mystery hole.

If you don't see a wiring problem, point your cell phone camera at the opto led in the white housing for whatever you can access. If the transmitter is working, you'll be able to see the purple light in your camera.

#938 5 years ago
Quoted from Raven2012:

Just checked the wiring i don't see any problems so far, the opto's are those little bulbs that detects the balls right, one is in a black housing the orher in a white ? I checked all of them with my iPhone camera and i don't see a purple light nowhere in the opto's.
Could all of them be broken ?!..
Could be possible i think because when i play a game he does not recognize a castle lock either.. also when in the opto popper (that's the one on the left where the ball comes when video mode is finished) he does not recognize it..
Guess i'll the pinball shops for opto's..

Yes, the white one is the emitter, and the black one is the receiver. Check the opto in your right mist pocket just to see what I'm talking about. That one you can see without taking anything apart. Sure, it's possible they're all bad, but it seems odd that all three of those Castle lock ones are out.

When I had this problem, the emitter led was loose on the board, so I could just wiggle it around in the housing to make the light go on and off. The replacement wasn't too expensive, but it's nice to know you're replacing the right thing the first time.

#940 5 years ago
Quoted from MXV:

I think it means TOP LEFT popper - the one on the left side below the left ramp. I forget if they call it the celler but it is where Renfield says "master you promised me eternal life" when the ball goes in there.

Oh, yes, that's the one I was forgetting. I believe it's called the Asylum.

#953 5 years ago
Quoted from RoberAstur:

A picture is worth a thousand words ...

Is that target supposed to be yellow? mine is black.

#955 5 years ago
Quoted from little-italy:

Hey I'm putting on those sling plastics with the actors faces on them and does anyone know what spacers I need to get the plastics off the regular sling thanks and who sells them

should be able to use just about anything. How far off do you want them? 3/4"?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=358

#961 5 years ago
Quoted from RoberAstur:

Mine is black too ...
That image does not belong to my BSD, found on the internet.
I guess that is what you need mate.

kudos to your google-fu if you found that online. haha

I'm just stupid about things being factory (or better if modded), not hating on stuff that isn't. IOW, I would've had to buy a yellow one if it was supposed to be that color! Working is ok, but I replaced my fully functional launch button with the correct one for the machine because it was the wrong color.

#974 5 years ago

New Mist ball problem. I just got done shopping my machine, and now the right gate doesn't open far enough to allow the ball out most of the time. Usually the ball gets hung up on the gate and just sits there. If I help the gate open further during activation, everything works fine. I didn't disassemble this mech when shopping it, but I did take the solenoid apart to clean it after this started happening. I did have to take the gate off so I could remove the plastics, but I never unhooked it from the arm.

Help?

#976 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Make sure the bracket the coil is mounted on is straight up and down. It can easily get bent toward the center of the playfield which will not allow the gate to open far enough. Take off the building above it and it'll be easy to tell.

Yup, that did it. Thanks so much! I never would have tried something like that!

#978 5 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

Hello BSD Fans,
i plan to make red illuminated flipper buttons on my BSD. So i have to change to illuminated arcade buttons with integrated microswitch. can anyone tell me wich wires i have to use for the mechanical microswitch ?
on the opto boards i have the following wires:

Sounds like you're going about it the hard way. Take a look at this:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

#986 5 years ago

Just finished my shop job and lighted flipper installation. Looks awesome!
Unfortunately I also found that I apparently managed to break the "gate-runway wire" in the ball trough. This is the little one way gate that prevents the ball from bouncing back into the outhole. Would anyone be able to post a picture of this so I know how to reinstall a new one?

Thank you!

#997 5 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

Just don't light video mode while a multiball is going, or you'll lose your multiball This happened to me this week. Seems to me video mode should be disabled while a multiball is going.
Another weirdity.... I've had the mist ball gather a partner and BOTH end up in the mist hole ... twice now. Probably happens a lot.

Video mode should disable during multiball - mine does. Taylor, usually, I don't get the Mist mb when that happens, and just video mode - such a bummer.

Also, yes, partnering the mist ball is another huge bummer. Sometimes you get lucky and the other one falls off when the magnet turns off, other times you gotta shake it pretty hard!

#1002 5 years ago
Quoted from jimbeam42:

I need to make a left mist gate, any recommendations on wire thickness? Was going to use stainless steel rod. Thanks

good luck

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-making-new-bsd-left-mist-gate

#1010 5 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I had posted this in a separate thread...but am still looking for some brainstorming. My BSD has a ghost in the machine, so to speak:
Once every 40 games or so, if a ball hits the center or left target on the stand-up bank straight up the middle, the game will start randomly (and quickly) handing out rewards (such as a coffin ramp hit, a rat hole hit, video lane hit... sometimes the dungeon (upper left scoop) hit...). Then, just as quickly as it started, it stops and the game goes back to normal play.
I've had the glass off...can't get it to recreate. Put it in switch test and banged around... nothing. I've also looked under the play field...can't seem to find any loose wires or shorts.
Anyone have any thoughts?

All of those awards are opto hits, except the coffin ramp, unless it's the coffin hole opto that's causing it and the game is smart enough to detect that as a malfunctioning ramp lift and award the ramp instead of the lock.

Look into everything that controls the optos. Seems like it would be a board issue since it's not related to a single opto.

#1033 5 years ago
Quoted from Prefect:

Does anyone else have problems with their left gate.

If the wire gate itself is not original, make sure it wasn't replaced with something that has become magnetized.

#1044 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Anyone else have metal playfield side rails on their game? The BSD I'm restoring is the second one I've seen with them.
The third and fourth pic show the NOS playfield that will be going in my game. It had wood ones on it so I made new ones and installed them not knowing my game had metal ones. The wood ones will be replaced.
I've restored a number of WH2O's and only had one that had the metal ones.

Hm, mine are metal. Had no idea there were wood ones.

#1050 5 years ago

This isn't an LS vs SP playfield thing, is it?

#1052 5 years ago

Hm. Maybe an early production thing then, because mine is an LS, too.

#1057 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

SP is the better of the two. LS playfields seem to have a lot of issues with ghosting under the inserts. You won't find that with the SP.

and the LS ones plank more, see mine for an example...

#1086 5 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

i have another question,have anyone a pic how the left building on playfield is mounted ? think at my BSD there are missing parts for mount the building with the two screws. so i only can place the building loose, and sometimes it happens if the ball is ejected the ball is thrown back the rail.Mike

Unfortunately I don't have a good picture of it installed but these are the parts and where they go.

IMAG0466.jpg
#1088 5 years ago

I used a variety of cointaker flat 8, flex 8, and talls. They specifically recommended the flex 8, and I can see why, though I do think the talls are still best in the very back in the backboard.

#1095 5 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

Thank you aobrien! Do you know the size of the spacers ?
Mike

Unfortunately I don't. Next time I have it open, I'll measure them for you, though. Assuming nobody finds them first.

2 weeks later
#1137 5 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

i have another question,
have anyone a pic how the left building on playfield is mounted ? think at my BSD there are missing parts for mount the building with the two screws. so i only can place the building loose, and sometimes it happens if the ball is ejected the ball is thrown back the rail.
Mike

Took a while but I finally took a look. The lower post is 2.5" and the upper is 3.5".

#1140 5 years ago
Quoted from flipperilaakso:

I really wish I had read this thread before I tore down my Dracula. I'm usually pretty anal about measuring everything really carefully, but those 4 post were so close that they fooled me to believe that they are all the same height when I roughly measured them on the playfield. Only noticed the slight difference after they were out and of course at this point I didn't know anymore which was from which place. So YES I would be interested in this information and I think it should be documented in this wonderful thread. Im aware you already put your BSD back together but I hope you have the info still (fingers crossed).

Sorry, I never actually took the measurements because I didn't remove the posts. I have to get back into my machine soon, though. I wasn't planning on going into the coffin, but do you know how much needs to come off to get to the posts enough to measure them?

1 week later
#1167 5 years ago

I agree. Just finished mine.

IMAG0493.jpg
IMAG0496.jpg

#1170 5 years ago

Love never dies is lit by three flashers and is probably not led'ed if the back box wasn't. Three flex flashers would light it up pretty good.

#1177 5 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

WOW that looks great !

The blue sky is only made with blue LED's ?? Do you use normal led or superbright LEDs ?

Mike

Actually the blue sky is done with blues and cool whites and I used cointaker frosted LEDs so that it wasn't too bright and blow everything out. When I put blues in the ones directly behind a large section of Dracula letter it turned it purple, so there are also reds up in that area.

#1178 5 years ago
Quoted from Wickedbass:

Does anyone have a link to say a photobucket or flickr where they stored their pics during a tear down i could look at.

No, but if you need something specific I may have it.

Quoted from Prefect:

I followed up a 430 million point game with one where I didn't even break 5 million and that's with regular flippers.

Put up my best score yesterday. 1.9b with 39 loops with lightning flippers. It was awesome.

#1183 5 years ago

Does the eos switch work properly in switch test?

#1192 5 years ago

Just a spotlight. I just did mine, too. Purple or UV led would be my suggestion for the bulb.

#1195 5 years ago

Can be a pain to shop. There's a PDF on here with a good step by step.

#1222 5 years ago
Quoted from kpull:

Yep. It's only a matter of time until Dracula gets a friend!

Agreed. It's like a sickness...

Would also like to see a pic of the topper when you get it!

#1232 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Looking at a brams Sunday
What things should I be focusing on?

Where the ball drops from the shooter lane

#1254 5 years ago
Quoted from ghostbc:

Would Lefkoff be drilling his own metal, I think not . I am Kevin from Lyons Classic PInball.
Do all BSD's have the metal hammerlite side rails ? I have only seen this on a friends CFBL.

They do not all have them and they are not interchangeable. Someone else recently discovered this in another thread.

#1261 5 years ago

Wow, nice decals. Is the outline supposed to be part of the decal?

Also, would someone do me a favor and take a picture of their coin door interlock switch and wiring for me?!

#1264 5 years ago
Quoted from kpull:

Does this help?

Yup, perfect. Thanks!

Edit: Hell, I don't even have a bracket or holes where the bracket would mount... Hrm.

#1266 5 years ago

Really? I've got the wires hanging right there. Why wouldn't they install it?

#1269 5 years ago

It is a reimport, actually. I'll probably do the same. Thank you!

2 weeks later
#1306 5 years ago

Unscrew the emitter and pull it out far enough so you can look at it with your cell phone camera. If its emitting light, maybe the receiver is bad.

#1316 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Well, couldn't tell when it was still in place, but pulling it out, it became pretty obvious there was a problem.

Found the diode laying inside the cab in the sub.
New one should be arriving tomorrow. Then I get to see how my soldering skills are these days. I've only ever really done wire to wire soldering for car stereos and electronics.

well, that was easy! You got the diode+board, not just the diode? surface mount soldering can be a pain, especially with two hands. Hopefully someone has some tips (other than making your wife hold the stuff).

#1323 5 years ago

One is in the works.

#1328 5 years ago

What exactly is the problem? Ball goes in, but doesn't get popped out? If so, do what I told n0s4atu a few posts up first.

#1336 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Check the diode board below the playfield.

You mean opto board? Check for under playfield fuses, too.

#1341 5 years ago

Not sure which one you mean. This one?

IMAG0405.jpg
#1376 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

In the pops they are 259 which I have not found anywhere else does that sound right?

That does not sound right. I think they should be standard 555s.

Quoted from SkeebWilcox:

I had Castle Lock started for the third time and NO BALLS WERE SPIT OUT!

I was playing last night and during a decent game, I finally locked my 3rd ball to start castle aaaaand nothing. Just locked up and eventually rebooted. Played a couple more games to see if it was just a fluke and just wound up empty and went to bed... I'll have to do it again tonight to make sure it's all ok.

#1384 5 years ago
Quoted from mcclad:

I just got my BSD working and I am in the prcess of figuring out the bazillion things that were wrong with the game. One thing that I noticed is that I can lock three balls in the coffin to start coffin multi ball and when it starts I only have one ball. I can start to spell DRACULA to get the jackpot but I am only doing it with one ball. Any ideas on what could be wrong? Since I have never really played a perfectly working machine before, I do not know how things are supposed to work during a game.

What should happen is if the other 2 balls are in the trough, it should eject and launch them. If they are locked in the castle locks, it should release and launch them. Check out those switches to make sure the game knows where the balls are. Also that you have 4 in the machine, as mentioned.

#1392 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

Quick question, I installed three LED flex lights under the Dracula figure which I assume are supposed to point up to illuminate the figure or does the middle one just point up while the other two face the coffin? The amount of room for each space makes one question the direction.

That's actually a good question. Mine are all pointing up, but the one in the face seems like its the only one you can see.

#1411 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Hmm, that empty cut out looks suspiciously like it could have once held an outlet. I know my game was a reimport from Europe, could that be why it's gone?

Haha, yup. Looks very familiar. Just like my reimport. Not too tough to install a new one. There was a thread about it not long ago.

#1414 5 years ago

Here you go.http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-are-the-differences-with-a-reimport

#1423 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

I have frosted purple CoinTakers. Doesn't wash out the decal print but acentuates it, imho

That's a good idea. I have purple in that area too, but the purple flex did wash it out, so I put yellow flex in there.

#1429 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

Does anything need to come off before I remove the left ramp?

I think the left wireform. You just have to very carefully lift the ramp entrance. Its difficult to reach the back bulb. Hopefully you have long fingers.

#1435 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Which LEDS are you guys using in the GI on the playfield? Ultrabrights? Cool?

Cointaker retro. Cool on the lower, red in upper right, purple in upper left.

Quoted from CptAwesomest:

I found that super bands really help the brutality of this game. its still brutal, but i found my score doubling since i put them on.

I have to agree here. Same experience.

#1438 5 years ago

Welcome Kiwi!

#1450 5 years ago
Quoted from yoshootme:

mine is possessed! as the ball goes to the inlane ,an apparition pulls it into the outlane, EVERY TIME!!!! wth!

Does it make you feel like a blundering novice?

#1457 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

I posted earlier where the left bank, pops, and middle bank GI are out after installing LED's. The flashers in the middle of each bank flash as the castle lock is lit. Fuse 106 (12 A) is fine. Must be a wire loose or cold solder??

If you shorted something when installing the LEDs and blew the fuse, you may have blown all the bulbs. I did the same thing in the same location. Move one of the LEDs to another location to make sure it's not the bulb.

#1460 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

I have tried that as well. I did not blow the fuse and the original 106 12A still tests fine with MM. For a short time after the LED install that section worked fine.

Sounds like a loose wire then. Find the last bulb on the strand and start tracing. Luckily that's a pretty small set of bulbs.

#1463 5 years ago

Definitely an opto problem. Look back a few posts with others having the same problem. They can be intermittent so pull then out and test them.

#1478 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

Ok I was able to give it another try today on my lunch break. I left the game unplugged and untouched since I posted last night. I started it up and the coffin multiball was working! So I tried the castle multiball, also working! I think the coffin opto might be intermittent as i hear a solenoid firing randomly at times. I have never owned a game with optos, do they require maintenance/cleaning? Or is this one of those things you just leave alone if it's working?
Thanks in advance. Side note: When you can play this game it is fun as hell!

Mostly maintenance free, but you should clean them when you're in the area cleaning other things. Qtip with alcohol on each diode.

#1485 5 years ago
Quoted from CptAwesomest:

So the black plastic shroud on the backside of the coffin. It has a long screw from the top. What does this screw thread into? Am i missing a nut that goes in between the coffin cover plastic and the metal bracket for the above coffin blue lights? I dug through the manual and found no reference.

pretty sure there's supposed to be a standoff and a very short screw.

#1511 5 years ago

That definitely sounds like ghosting. I think there's a setting for "allow dim illumination" or something like that. Setting that to false may help.

#1515 5 years ago
Quoted from rudygulp42:

Unfortunately I am experiencing three minor issues: Left Magnet error (which is not affecting play), the top left lane light is unlit (Not the bulb, i swapped it out) and Never of Love Never Dies flasher is out. The last one is the most heart breaking because my wife and I bought the machine in lieu of a wedding party. Now love dies and we feel it is a bad omen.

magnet: check the switch on the far left of where the magnet runs, it would tell the motor when to stop by closing the switch when it bumps into it.

bulb: check to make sure the socket or lug don't spin around easily, may need a new socket.

LND: all three flashers or just one? changed bulbs, checked connection?

#1518 5 years ago
Quoted from rudygulp42:

Above or below the playfield for the magnet?

below

Quoted from rudygulp42:

ulb: The bulbs for the lanes were all in correctly, and i swapped the left and right to see if it was just a simple bad bulb. Might be a loose connection, as apparently it is now flashing irregularly.

sounds like a bad socket

Quoted from rudygulp42:

LND: Just the Never. I would have checked it a bit closer but I did not know how to access the back of the panel.

probably just a bulb

#1524 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

1. Everytime I turn bsd on, a ball search goes off and the magnets goes across the pf and reloads. Sometimes it goes half way, drops the ball, and continues on.. then reloading the ball. Normal?

It shouldn't do a full ball search, but it will run the magnet and sometimes reload the mist pocket on the right. However, if it's carrying the ball half-way across and dropping it, that's probably a mist opto problem. How does it run in magnet test?

Quoted from Blackbeard:

2. Won't completing the top 3 rollovers light the "2x" light? When I complete the rollovers, the DMD says "2X", but the light doesn't light. I know the light works as I've tested it in diagnostics.

The 2x light is your jackpot multiplier. It lights when you have two multi-balls going. 3x for 3.

#1526 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I know there is an adjustment A2 44 "Game over unlock" that addresses balls being ejected at different times.

That's referring to emptying castle locks after the game. On power up, if it's working properly, it will simply open the right gate and the mist ball will fall out, it won't carry it halfway across. When you run the magnet test, let it run through several times.

#1531 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

I think this is normal behavior if the mist ball is on the left side during startup.

Yes, I agree.

#1533 5 years ago

Yeah, could be. Switch test should make that easy.

#1536 5 years ago

The coffin ramp has 2 solenoids associated with it. The main coil that lifts it and a secondary little coil that holds it up. Check the little coil. It definitely sounds like you fried something but I wouldn't know what. Any help going through each coil and noting which ones don't work? Maybe a particular transistor that drives several coils got blown?

#1540 5 years ago

Yeah, start a full thread, you have a short somewhere and putting a new board in will either blow something on there or just keep tripping the fuse.

#1549 5 years ago
Quoted from mcclad:

For once, and just ONCE, I would like to have a pinball machine work perfectly from day one untill the day I die.

Sounds like you need to invest in The Pinball Arcade.

#1550 5 years ago
Quoted from CptAwesomest:

So over the weekend I was doing some work on my BSD and prepping to order some LEDS. (I also added the BriteButtons RED LED flipper buttons on and they look really nice). I noticed that the top right behind the playfield flasher wasn't working nor was the 2 under the coffin. Neither are getting power in the Sol/fash test (17), but it appears the backbox part function of this Sol no 17 is the red Dracula flasher, which is working fine. My game came sans manual and i've been going through the one online, but wanted to see if anyone had some ideas?

Did you try just swapping bulbs and wriggling the connector? For me, the one in the backboard under the red silhouette of Dracula was loose and I needed to reflow the solder on the twist socket.

#1551 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Suggestions? Is this a question of needing a new set of the sound chips? Game still plays great, but I miss the music, callouts, etc.

Can't help with this one, haven't had sound problems.... yet...

I'd start a new thread.

#1554 5 years ago
Quoted from CptAwesomest:

I think the next step in trace the wires and see if anything is glaringly wrong.

That's where I would go. Also easy to test the transistor if you can get to it.

#1556 5 years ago

Does #1 missing cause rejects in the form of airballs? that's the only thing that would make sense.

Bryan Kelly has a full set of plastics coming out soon (we hope). That may be your best to replace those two (and probably your other cracked/broken ones, too).

#1560 5 years ago

Thanks for being cool Mcclad.

1 week later
#1578 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

Any news on the ramps from Pinballinc?

No. I expect you have months to go.

#1593 5 years ago

Actually, I think some do have it. Do you have extra wires hanging down from the start button? Mine does.

#1595 5 years ago

Could be a local/export thing. It's wired up, but exports didn't have them installed. Mine is a reimport from Germany. Yours?

#1598 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Pretty sure it's a reimport. Not sure where.
So dumb question: when the pin comes back into the US, who modifies the electrical? Or is 220v (reimport voltage) the same as 120v in the US?

Whoever did the reimporting, most likely. I does need to be converted.

#1600 5 years ago

If you're not still getting the lamp interference in test, it should be fine. I have all LED GI in mine. Which gate is opening during play, the left or right? Make sure you're checking the left pocket optos, too. Also, make sure all your trough switches are ok, and you have the "reverse flow" gate in the trough (or whatever you want to call it).

Also check this out:
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/game-specific-toys/200-mist-multiball

#1608 5 years ago

He posted that set here too looking for offers. $20 shipping hurts. Still waiting for Bryan Kelly's set...

#1612 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

i'd like to use an extra plastic over that bottom pop so it matches the other two.

Huh? You mean the circular one in the middle of that picture with the graphic on it?

1 - it probably won't fit because the coffin wireform sits right on top of the bottom pop
2 - the right pop is completely hidden so I don't know what you mean by "matches the other two" because they're all three essentially different.

#1614 5 years ago

oh, so you just mean matching in terms of 'covered by a plastic.' Gotcha. Well, like I said, I don't think you'd be able to put a plastic over the lower pop. My cover actually has a little divot in the top where the wireform sits, so there simply wouldn't be enough room.

Interestingly, this pic on ipdb is missing the plastic covering the right pop.
http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=13263

#1618 5 years ago

Nope, sorry. Should look like this: http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=12464

Obviously red is stock.

#1623 5 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

That should do it. Also make sure a plastic, bracket etc. is not loose and is partially blocking the beam.

Good point! At one point my home-made repro left wire gate would sit right in the middle of the beam and cause all kinds of problems!

#1625 5 years ago

Go through the coil tests and note which ones don't work.

Edit: actually, what switches do those numbers refer to?

#1631 5 years ago

That's actually a really good question. They do not open at the same time and I don't believe there is a switch with the magnet/motor under the playfield that triggers it. Perhaps it is time based alone. From the time the magnet leaves the right pocket, if the ball is still blocking the long opto, it opens after x seconds?

It would obviously then close when the ball blocks the left opto or when it is no longer blocking the long opto.

#1638 5 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

There are microswitches under the playfield on each side. When the magnet assembly gets to either side, it pushes those switches closed. They are shown in the switch matrix as Magnet Left and Magnet Right. I believe those switches open the gates, shut off magnet power and the power to the motor that moves the magnet.

Those switches don't trigger the gate, they just trigger the Magnet Left/Right and stop the motor. If that also opened the gate, then the ball wouldn't make it into the pocket.

#1641 5 years ago

What exactly is your problem? Is the gate not opening at all during play? Is it closing too soon? How does it look on the DMD in Magnet Test?

#1645 5 years ago

Ok, cool, your idea should make it easier to find. I do have the schematics at home, so I can take a look tonight.

#1653 5 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

I have done some more research and I really think the I.C. 555 timer is the chip on the 24 opto board that sense how far the ball is away and opens the left gate. Can someone confirm if my guess is correct. Its like a $5 dollar chip so that would be a cheap fix.

Ok so the opto board schematic is actually in the regular manual that you can get on ipdb on page 3-24.

The timer is associated with a switch we've been forgetting - Ball on Magnet (82).

The solenoid itself on the fliptronics board is wired just like all the others (on q7). I don't see how it can't be related to that timer circuit.

1401925716040.jpg
#1659 5 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

@aobrien I am not quit sure I understand ur post. Are u saying the IC 555 controls the ball on magnet switch and I should replace that chip or are u saying just the ball on magnet switch needs adjusted/replaced

The 555 is part of the Ball on Magnet circuit. I suspect it is what you're looking for, and the schematic should let you test it to see if the chip is bad. Does it have Continuity where it should? Ground where it should?

#1672 5 years ago

Do all your trough switches register properly in switch test?

#1673 5 years ago
Quoted from rudygulp42:

This may also be related the ball save playing the animation / sound but not giving a ball save.

This just happens sometimes. It's a known bug.

Quoted from rudygulp42:

Also, when the mystery award gives Video mode Lit, the machine should drop the back target, correct?

No, it has no way to do that automatically. Yeah, it's a little counterintuitive.

#1681 5 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

If when video mode is lit and the drop target is still up and you hit it that would mean you would have to make another shot up there to start video mode?

That's correct. The drop target is always supposed to reset unless video mode is lit. Typically, getting the last letter in video manually will drop the target and it will stay down. If you barely make the loop and it doesn't make it around to the target, you'll be in the same situation - knock the target down before being able to start it. Video mode will only start once it drops in the hole.

Quoted from kporter946286:

why would you disable the option to empty the castle?

Also saves some wear on the much battered ball drop if it doesn't have to launch each of those balls every time the game ends.

#1682 5 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

how do you lock the balls the next game if they are already in there?

It's smart enough to know when it's full, and if you put a 3rd ball up there for Castle Lock 1, it'll drop one out into the shooter lane rather than from the trough.

Quoted from rudygulp42:

And to add a bit more, I have had two four ball multiballs canceled after only 3 have drained, which is more reason to suspect the trough switches.

Also, like the ball saver, this just happens sometimes. If it happens too often, you definitely need to check the trough switches, and make sure the back flow gate (or whatever) is installed in the trough.

#1684 5 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

I hook up a powered sub to my BSD, coffin lock now shakes the room

I want to do that so bad...

#1690 5 years ago

Sounds like I need to start paying more attention when I turn the machine on.

As far as I'm concerned, if after it finishes booting I don't have a credit dot, all is well.

#1695 5 years ago

Yeah, left or right pocket, mine drains all locked balls and does a "ball search."

That's on power on. After a game it does not release locks.

#1697 5 years ago

I don't have any drain issues or other problems so I'll leave well enough alone for now.

#1702 5 years ago

You probably want to fill it with glue, not putty. I'd make a general post about that.

2 weeks later
#1710 5 years ago

Beautiful! Why is your Love Never Dies text on the speaker panel black?

Edit: clear? Do tell!

#1713 5 years ago

That's one of those things I would probably love to have on mine, but seeing as how it's not terribly reversible and I don't have an extra speaker panel laying around, I'll just leave it alone.

#1718 5 years ago
Quoted from achtungboyy:

I am having an issue with my BSD. When I get Mist Multiball when the ball goes from right to left, the ball will end as soon as lose one ball leaving the other one to just drain. It does not happen when the ball is traveling from left to right. Does anyone know what this can be? I have checked the optos and switches and everything checks out. Very frustrating issue.

Have you run through the magnet test thoroughly? Let it run several times and watch the status on the dmd to make sure everything is registering properly. Seems like an opto problem.

Could also be a trough switch problem. lots of recent examples in this thread.

#1727 5 years ago
Quoted from Senegal927:

I thought BSD had a regular DMD but there was a red film in front of it.
Anyway you could try pinbits.
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=62

That's correct.

#1733 5 years ago

So I've got a Laseriffic undercab lighting kit that I want to connect to this thing. I think it was designed for a Stern, but shouldn't be that bad to make it work. I need an 18V power source, then would use the flash lamps for the signals to the different colors. Anybody know where I can get 18V or if using the 20V(?) from the flasher circuit would be ok?

#1746 5 years ago

Your bigger problem is probably the missing top clear plastic. That post may be too big. The posts in your pic are for holding to coffin, and they go shortest to tallest, front to back. The ones for the ramp may or may not be different sizes.

IMAG0815.jpg
#1750 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

My understanding is that plastic keeps the ball from going too airborne and ricocheting backwards back down the ramp.

I am a bit confused here. When you say "posts in your pic" - I assume you mean the last picture in my post that was originally Pinster68's? Are there only 3 posts that hold the coffin up?
I noted that my hard plastic coffin ramp is missing anchoring screws - look like 8-32 screws. If so, I am sure that along with missing the clear plastic are two of my problems.
But, I really want to make sure I understand this: how many circular posts hold up the coffin ramp - the hard plastic coffin ramp? I just have a bad feeling someone swapped them for whatever reason. My ball will get nearly to the roll-over switch on the hard coffin ramp and STILL roll backwards. I can't help but believe that someone put the circular posts back in and totally put them in the wrong orientation. I want to go in and fix this if they are in the wrong order.

Yes about the pastiche and picture reference. There are 6 posts holding the coffin, a pair of each of the sizes in that pic.

There are 3 posts holding the ramp itself, and they may or may not be of different sizes. Hopefully there are some shop pics to help identify those.

#1752 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Anyone have any idea as to why Castle Lock not only loads a new ball into the shooter lane, but then also unlocks the Castle Locked ball as well? Thankfully, once I let one of the balls drain, there is no pre-mature end to that ball; however, it is annoying D: ...

Check all your castle lock optos and trough switches. Make sure the right number of balls are installed in the game (4).

#1764 5 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I agree, 42 looks bad. It's cheap enough to replace 42. Or you could first swap the switches for 42 and 43 and see if it then shows that 43 is not registering, that would confirm the bad switch.

Or simply try to clean 42. Gunk can build up under the arm where the actual switch button is located.

#1768 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Hey guys, thank you so much for such thorough responses today! I just got home from work, and I plan on taking out the switches and cleaning them up a good bit. I wonder if I swapped switches #44 (for the 4th ball when you get triple stacked multiball going) and #42 if everything would behave (except during triple stacked multiball of course). I'll start doing some diagnostics later tonight.
We have some friends coming over for a possible pinball party tonight, so if I don't get to it tonight, I'll get some updates going this weekend. My clear plastics for the coffin ramp and CT LEDs should be coming in tomorrow. Prototype slingshot plastics are coming from Europse - prolly later in the week...!!

Actually, having the 4th be 'broken' would probably only effect reloading the MIST ball. triple stack would be fine because all of them would be open. It's having all 4 in the trough that would be the problem point. I bet it would probably still be better than where you're at now.

#1770 5 years ago

Frickin sweet man. I love the blood dripping during play.

#1786 5 years ago

Looking good. Don't forget the backbox!

#1791 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

I am looking at ordering some things from Marco soon, and I want to get all new trough switches - just in case. So I looked up the part #: 5647-00957-00 for trough switch 2, 3, and 4...and #5647-12693-08 for trough switch 1.

Hmm, those don't look right, but I don't remember what my switches look like. Some microswitches like that do have removable arms, and its easy to tell which ones (your second link).

Quoted from kporter946286:

Okay my turn for help.

honestly, I can't quite follow. post your pics first? show me yours and I'll show you mine?

#1794 5 years ago

How's this?

IMAG0423.jpg
#1795 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

So I got some parts in today!!!
Got this from Classic Arcade today:

Where'd you get the target decals? Been looking for a cheap place to get those.

#1803 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Then when going into attract mode, the game would not pop a ball into the shooter lane, lift the ramp, and deposit the ball into the right gate area (transmitter side of the game).

If the game knows the magnet test is failing, it assumes the Mist function is not working and will not load a ball. When you shoot the hole to start what should be the Mist ball traveling over the playfield, it will simply serve a ball from the trough into play and give you an automatic Mist multiball. The game (programmer) is smarter than you think!

#1804 5 years ago

Also @NewPinOwner - is that a plain green launch button you have? Is your machine by chance a German re-import? That's the same launch button I had on mine, where as they typically have the red "Launch Ball" button. I figured it was just replaced some time down the road, but now I wonder.

#1807 5 years ago

Nice work man. Looking good.

#1812 5 years ago

Oiling your machine is generally a no-no because it attracts dirty and will gum things up much faster.

Sounds like you're really bringing that thing back from the dead though!

#1815 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Yep, I definitely knew I was "going against the grain" on that one. This diverter was so gummed up, it would stick down and stay down. It couldn't even try to come back up. It was VERY rough. I was hesitant even telling anyone I used oil, but it was a very small amount, and it was NOT WD-40. That junk will give you hell fast. 3-in-1 oil is much more viscous, and I wiped off as much of the excess as I possibly could.
This BSD was definitely....well....it deserves some much overdue loving, and I am more than happy to do it !
Got to get a good picture of the LEDs all on soon.

Are you planning to give it a full cleaning soon then? That should be all it needs. I know some of these mechs are not easy to get to...

#1820 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

I no longer have BSD, but I do remember that if you follow the instruction manuals routing for rubber it often rubs on the diverter arm making it unreliable. I saw it in a post here somewhere, could be something to look out for as well. You can make a slight modification in how the rubber is installed and no more problems. The trouble is that often you don't realize it's a problem until all the ramps and coffin are back in place

You're right, I totally forgot about that rubber effecting the diverter arm. You have to just route the rubber around a different post or something. It was easy enough that I figured that out on my own.

#1823 5 years ago

Alright guys, finally got my LND to light up properly! Here's a brief tutorial. I got an led strip from mezel (can get about anywhere) and an old 555 led. I pulled the old led apart so I could reuse the housing, fed the wires on the led strip through the housing and folded them over like the led leads were. Then hot glued it in.

IMAG0841.jpg

Plug that into one of the sockets, stick the strip on:

IMAG0843.jpg

And voila!

IMAG0851.jpg

#1837 5 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Game play question? When i get both coffin and castle multiball both going and shoot a ball up the left ramp, it enters the Castle look ramp and remains locked, then if i drain out of multi-ball, the game still keeps the Blue Jackpot light lit at the scoop and will release the ball in the castle lock to the shooter and autoplunge it into play, it being the only ball in play. Is this normal behavior.

Yes, and it really only applies to Castle Multiball. Shooting the left ramp is what enables the jackpot (shooting it twice will lock two balls for a double jackpot). This is a timed jackpot. If you get it, or don't get it before time runs out, the ball is unlocked and put back into play. That locked ball is still considered in play. If you lock two for a double, then drain the third, you'll still be in multiball.

#1843 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Even though it's been answered, if you want to see your question of the gameplay in action, watch from 22:00 to about 22:50. Does exactly what it sounds like you asked:

And then watch the whole thing so you can feel like the worst pinball player to ever touch a machine.

Quoted from Chet:

The casual player will not control the ball by trapping up balls on the flippers and flailing means a very fast game in BSD. The reduced flipper gap might make the game a little friendlier. The BSD game i have came with the original lightning flippers.

I agree. Go ahead and swap them out to make it more fun for the customers. It'll still be brutal enough anyway.

#1849 5 years ago

Looking good man!

#1854 5 years ago

Didn't we determine you had trough switch issues when balls were draining into the trough? You had one switch (#2?) flickering sometimes?

#1856 5 years ago

yikes dude! You should definitely concentrate on the trough switches before messing with the optos. They're sooo much easier to get to!

#1860 5 years ago

Nice dude! Try to concentrate on castle jacks, they're worth more... But harder!
Don't know about the switches, I'll have to check.

#1872 5 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Wish someone made the left gate for this game.

Agreed. I made several attempts at making my own. Got a pretty good one, then lucked into a true replacement. You can make your own, just may take a few tries.

I had a thread on here a while ago about it. Search it out, or I can try to give you a hand.

#1878 5 years ago

Go back a page and do my LND mod if you really want to make it look pretty.

#1881 5 years ago

"Started investigating my "mini multiball" problem. I found something. Watch the video for the answer to what I think the problem has been...."

Freaking brilliant. Nice find.

#1883 5 years ago

Yeah, above. You may be able to get the castle off without completely removing the ramp. I'm pretty sure that's all you need. You also probably only need to move the receiver.

Edit: then again, maybe you'll get lucky and they're plugged into the board individually, but I doubt it.

#1886 5 years ago

NewPin: sound of coils are normal. They are different mechanisms. Make sure your left gate isn't magnetic! Especially if it's silver in color. It was originally brass colored. Make sure the bracket is mounted above the plastic as well. I have pics and a vid around here somewhere.

Off-Kilter: the right side of that ramp did not come with a protector. It shouldn't really need one because of the post in front of it. Hopefully you can make one from Marco work for you.

#1888 5 years ago
Quoted from Off-Kilter:

I just got one of the dracula flyers off ebay and it shows a metal ramp guide on the right side of the left ramp, I wish I could get one of those somehow. It looks like some MacGyvering will be needed.

My apologies. You're right, and mine does actually have one. Looks like part number: 01-11189-R "Ramp Protector Brkt."

Edit: aka - "guard-brkt ramp right" - probably still going to be very difficult to find unless you know someone parting one out.

#1893 5 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Where can I get the coffin ramp thingy?
50% of the time the ball won't go up...

I assume you're talking about the clear plastic that is supposed to cover the ramp. You can buy a full set of replacement plastics from Bryan Kelly or PPS, you can try to make your own, or you can beg plead and offer to pay the guy who made a couple for other members a couple pages back in this thread.

#1896 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

More easy installs - 4 new pinballs and PinballCard.com's custom apron cards.

Picture 068.jpg 205 KB

Jumping back to these - I never realized how wrong the original instruction cards were! That's where Aurium (?) is getting his text from, which makes sense, until you realize they're wrong. FWIW, JP also has incorrect instructions on the original cards.

#1897 5 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

This last picture explains better what i ment with the coffin ramp.

Congrats on your pickup!

This is the picture you want to show for your Coffin Ramp:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/35#post-1777536

#1902 5 years ago

Post a pic of your problem. Your coffin ramp is clear, and when it's up (the lock light is on), the flap can get in a way a bit to see the lit insert. That's not unique to yours, but if all the cross lights are lit, then you know the coffin is open anyway.

Edit: I'm guessing you won't be able to find a new lift ramp easily.

#1907 5 years ago