Bram Stoker's Dracula
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So it looks like I'm grabbing a Bram Stoker's Saturday! A nice one too!
What are the best mods?
I was planning to get the Color LED DMD until I learned that you have to buy a new speaker panel for 100.00 USD! Not worth it to me now! 
Thanks for your advise fellas! 
I seen the Sharpie trick before. Didn't know about the paint! I suck at art LOL!
I know the Color DMD's are great, I have one on my ST pro. It's the LCD, not the LED. But my friend has an LED on his Jackbot and it's super bright and vibrant. Some games are better with the LED and some are better with the LCD IMO and the LED is $40.00 cheaper.
Quoted from dr_nybble:I've installed RadCals on two BSDs. Not that easy in my opinion. The RadCals go to the very edge of the cabinet, if you have any rounded-over corners they overhang. Also you have to drill almost all of the holes. They look good though.
So did you epoxy wood fill the rounded corners?
Quoted from Zee:Something you might consider is red paint that's normally used for stained-glass applications. It comes out looking very much like blood.
Can you point me to the correct product?
Quoted from dr_nybble:[quoted image]
Sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!
Even got the Big Lebowski carpet for it! 
Quoted from dr_nybble:[quoted image]
OK, thanks for the info on the Rad-Cals.
I figured they would be simpler as they are thicker and would more easily hide small imperfections. I have installed cab decals in the past, but never Rad-Cals. I'll reconsider this. But they are awesome! Other than squaring up the corners and using Forstner bits as you explained, do you have any other advise?
Thanks much! 
Quoted from Zee:DecoArt has some; it can be found on Amazon. Same with FolkArt enamels for glass & ceramic.
I used the type that is supposed to be baked on (obviously I could not do that) so it took a long time to dry, and an even longer time for the faint smell to go away. However, it turned out looking like wet blood - I love it. I'll get a photo of the bottle this weekend and post it here.
How long did it take to dry?
Quoted from Wanderers:Thankyou
After the fiasco with the GnRs are they any good?
Good Question? But if you get one, just set it aside for about 4 to 6 months to let the clear coat cure before installing it.
Quoted from Wanderers:Ok
Are they made on order, or is it something that they already have sat on a shelf.
You can see what iam getting at, if they already made they could be ok as they’ve had time to cure.
Ya, I would email them. IDK if they have a date on the playfield or not.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Someone here sell me their Flickering Torches Mod. MezelMods all sold out. Thanks.
Yup, I want a set too!
Quoted from Aflacjack:I have the pinsound. It totally transforms the game. I love it. I left the speakers stock, but added a polk sub. Shakes the house.
Awesome!
That was my other question "does a sub sound good?" I know some older games don't, so thanks!
Which sound package did you install?
Quoted from Motorcitypinball:I should of had you listen to the Pin sound installed in my Shadow when you were over. Its my best sounding gam :De in my collection! Pinsound is the real deal!
Damn! I wish I did!!
I just may have to do this then!!
This machine Rocks!!!
Quoted from Gorgar666:Just ordered a Pinsound it’s going to be amazing…
Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please report back.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Now i just have to cough up $400.....
PINSOUND PLUS V3.5 REPLACEMENT SOUND BOARD FOR WPC 89 ... $369.95
PINSOUND SPEAKER KIT FOR WPC 89 AND DCS, SW8, SPK5 ........... $205.00
USB Stick .................................................................................. $10.00
Shipping.................................................................................... $25.00
Total ......................................................................................... $610.55
https://ksarcade.net/new-used-pinball-boards-parts/pinsound.html
I just ordered this package!!! Also, have a sub to hook up. 
At Kay's Arcade, you can buy it with or without the USB stick with software for $60.00 cheaper? If I do this, are the sound downloads free then?
https://ksarcade.net/new-used-pinball-boards-parts/pinsound.html
What is the best way to touch up the red in the cabinet decals. I don't want to have to lay the cab down on it's side as I don't trust doing this without pulling the playfield out. And I'd rather not pull the playfield out. I'm assuming Acrylic paint pens are the way to go as opposed to Sharpies?
Thanks
Quoted from paulie484:I'm currently undertaking this exercise now ! Have started to use these pens:
https://www.posca.com/en/product/pc-3m/
I've chosen the dark red version, also tested the normal red but seems a little too light
I'm not 100% convinced I'm sold on using these at the moment ...from a distance they look fine but up close there are streaks in the dark red and are noticeable. I haven't tackled the main Dracula logo part yet....this is because the dark red pen doesn't seem to be available in the larger tip version of the Posca pens (7M). So not sure how I'll tackle this part
My machine isn't in collectors condition so maybe I'm expecting too much...as has been noted here before it doesn't affect the playing of the game but still, is nice to have nice looking things ! So I have figured this will do until I decide to replace decals later on [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks!
It looks like I may have to attempt the old Frisket film and airbrush technique! It's a lot of work to carefully cut out the Frisket film around everything you want red, but it'll yield great results with Createx air brush paint once you match up the red which should be easy to do. I can also do it with pin standing up. Then, after it dries, you hit it with a coat of Createx transparent base for protection (paint without the pigment)
I may do the small print with your method and save the large print for the air brush! Or just use small paint brushes with the Createx paint.
This will be a good winter project if I get bored enough!
Strange how Pinsound Plus board uses the stereo left and right RCA outs on their board for the external sub? My sub only has a single RCA input, so I'll have to make up a cord to go from L,R male RCA to single RCA male to interface the sub. You think they'd have a dedicated sub out? WTF! 
But it's great with the Dracula Remix 2.0!!
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Just installed my pinsound and I have a basic question. I paid for the preloaded usb drive, and it was included, install was a breeze. Kind of fool proof. However, I've powered the machine on, and some funky music plays and a female voice says checking sound files, please wait. That's all it does. Music and please wait. That's been about 15 minutes now.... what am I missing??
First, I downloaded the Firmware update and copied it to the USB stick and installed it. Pinsound system will automatically remove those files from your stick after it's done updating. Then I copied over the unzipped sound file folder to USB stick and installed it. I plug the USB stick into the Pinsound board with game off, then turn it on to install.
See post #8373 above. I installed only this one so far. It's the 4th one on the download list. I didn't buy the software preinstalled.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Thanks for the info! I did go ahead and pay to have everything done because I'm a computer dunce... lol. Luckily, after about 25 minutes, it finished whatever it was doing and now it's ready to play. I guess the initial boot just takes a long time. I still have no idea how to switch between soundtracks. The board itself is very high quality, but the instructions and website support leave a bit to be desired. Just a quick note on the website about initial boot time would have been a plus.
From what I read, if you unzip the sound files from you computer to the USB stick it will drastically speed up the process as the Pinscape doesn't have to do it (PC is vastly more powerful). Also, to change between sound libraries, you just open the coin door and turn the volume all the way down and back up and it loads the next library. I haven't done this yet. My volume only goes down to 8, no lower.
Also, you have to adjust the EQ on the Pinscape board as it is a huge deal. It sounds lame at default settings. The sub boost adds a huge boost to base and over all volume. Base and Mids are really important and I set Treble to 3/4, but my ears are bad with the high freq. I did install the Pinscape speakers as well. I'm going to try the external sub when I get time in next couple days. This board is an amazing piece of tech!! It's a game changer all right!
** Watch this video for some answers..**
I couldn't turn the volume down below #8 on coin door setting. I found that in "Standard Adjustments" A1-28 "Min Vol Over Ride" has to be set to YES which is NOT the factory default setting. Now it allows me to turn down to Zero.
** Also. Not able to register with the Pinsound Community to download the other sound sets! They will not send me the email confirmation link to finish registration. I was only able to download the Dracula Original and Dracula Remix sound libraries as these didn't require registering. WTF?!
Quoted from Gorgar666:48 hours after registration looks like.
Hi David,
Yes, you need to receive the hardware first.
The serial number will be on the back.
Don't hesitate if I can help you
Have a good day!
Nicolas
I was trying to copy over all the available downloads from the Pinsound Community.
That's the problem, I can't finish registration because they won't send the link for me to confirm my email. It says it will, but never does. It's not in my junk folder either. And so far they haven't answered my emails explaining this.
** Are you saying the serial number is on the back of the board I already installed?
Added over 3 years ago:Pinsound resolved my account registration issue. It works now.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:That's why I went ahead and paid for the pre loaded usb drive. I hate complications. Just send me a complete, working, ready to install product.
Kay's arcade wanted an extra 60.00 to copy files to a USB stick!!! No thanks. I'll get it resolved. I have two sound sets now. No biggie!
Quoted from Zee:I don't get it - why all the mumbo jumbo? Are they worried about IP theft or something?
I don't know. These libraries are by the community, not Pinsound. I wouldn't care if the damn site worked like it's supposed to. I bought this kit expecting access to all the sound libraries. So it better get resolved.
Added over 3 years ago:Pinsound resolved my problem!
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I ordered direct from pinsound and paid $38 express shipping. $15 for files and usb stick. So the cost about evened out.
They wanted a ridiculous PayPal fee, so I went to Kay's Arcade instead.
Quoted from mollyspub:What were the totals shipped?
Post #8381 and 8382 last page.
Pinsound responded to my inquiry about connecting and external sub woofer to the Plus card..
"The two RCA output are for external amplifier or subwoofer."
"If your subwoofer has a single input, simply connect it to either one of the output of the PLUS, as bass output is not stereo sensitive."
Quoted from Gorgar666:Y’all planning on doing the Shaker?
No, too expensive. I already dumped $1200.00 into upgrades. LOL!
Quoted from Gorgar666:Could y’all post a video of the Pinsound in action here:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/3498499426859515/
Thanks, I would love to see it in BSD. Mines wouldn’t be ready for a few more weeks. It’s getting a PF Protector at this time. May end up in the Shadow. If it’s as badass as I think it will be. Getting another for BSD.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Best Pinsound I’ve ever seen.
Of course! It's Bram Stoker's Dracula!! Great pin for this upgrade for sure!
I have the speaker kit installed and the EQ setting adjusted. Lows kick ass and I feel it in my chest. Volume only a 8 and it's enough! Tomorrow, I connect an external sub. Can't wait to rock the house!
Quoted from Pinzap:Where are you located?
Quoted from Gorgar666:I'm extremely disappointed in The Shadow Pinsounds. I'll wait for my BSD and try again before I consider it a total loss. Music cutting off and on. resetting. Sound level are all over the place. Complete miss IMO. Original is Sooo much better.
Sorry to hear that! Others have said it's great. Are you sure you don't have a technical problem?
Quoted from Gorgar666:I feel ya. I'm Gonn a try this.
Shadow sounds good on YouTube?
Also, I am going to add some other main theme music to Dracula in order to have some variety. You just have to make sure to normalize the volume levels so they're the same. That's the fun of having this mod. You can experiment and tweak away to you hearts content!
Added over 3 years ago:I learned that if you install new .wav files into a folder, you have to delete the config file on the USB stick root directory before you insert it back into the Pinsound card so it can process it and create a new config file with the new sound files. If you don't do this, it will not see the new files. They can be named whatever, but I would keep the file names fairly short just in case. 
That's where I would start.
I got Drac dialed in now and it's awesome! If the bass and bass boost are set to high, the cab woofer will over power the external sub. Get your preferred average volume set for about half way on the coin door setting (you need an adequate signal going to the external sub amp). I had to max the volume on the external sub as well. You really don't need the external sub. It is better with it, but the Pinsound with speaker kit is very powerful and gets good lows on it's own! I just had to dial it back to make use of the external sub.
Quoted from KJS:Here is a video on my YouTube channel
Use USB 3.0 to avoid issues.
I have custom shaker mix in mine and also tweaked Hazzards awesome sound mix.
Amazing job he did here...
That is absolutely awesome!!!
This is how the machine should have looked to begin with! Love the bats and rats and coffin too. I wish Medisinyl mods still offered the coffin mods!
I'm never selling Dracula. I've had enough of new Sterns and will NOT buy any more at these prices. In Dracula, Pinsound upgrade IS a game changer. If you likes the movie, it's a must IMO. Also, I think Dracula will be worth more money as time goes on as it's a great addicting player's game and a great theme. People are learning about it and it will be in demand more in the future.
P.S.
I payed 4400.00 USD for mine and it has no planking.
Quoted from paulie484:Tech question:
I believe I may have a faulty EMI filter
Can I use a 10A version over the original 5A version ?[quoted image][quoted image]
I don't see why not?
How did you determine this was faulty?
Here is the right and front sides of Drac with the red all touched up. I used Frisket and air brush on big stuff and small paint brush on little stuff. About three coats of Createx Red Opaque air brush paint. Left side is how bad the fading was on both sides.. Color looks better in person though. It doesn't look as orange.
w01 (resized).JPGw02 (resized).JPG
w04 (resized).JPGQuoted from poppapin:That turned out really nice!!
Thanks! It did.
For anyone interested,
I didn't cut out the small details in Dracula. I just cut out the majority (larger areas) and finished with the small paint brush. The top logos and small text were also all done with the small paint brush. Also, after you peal off the Frisket, take a damp cloth and carefully wipe around the edges to remove the loose paint. You will have to touch up the edges in places. You can use black paint for that as well. I believe I was able to heat set the paint too. The cab decals can take a lot of heat. But I was careful to not melt them. You can cut the Frisket without cutting the decals, just keep changing to blade and be careful. You don't have to push very hard to cut the Frisket.
Should have said partial heat set. No way it's fully heat set as this requires 350 degrees for around 30 seconds I have read?
Use Createx Wicked Colors that develop a decent finish with normal air drying. No need to heat set.
Last night I was running a solenoid test on the right gate because it wasn't closing. After about a minute, I smelled something burning. Turned out, I cooked the right gate coil. Everything looked good when I disassembled the mech except for the burnt coil. There was no binding. I didn't have this solenoid firing for more than a minute. I checked the voltage during the test and voltage was changing as the test ran indicating that it wasn't locked on, nor is it powered when I just start a game. I couldn't get an accurate voltage reading, because the voltage was switching too fast, but it appeared to be around 40 volts. WTF? Any suggestions?
Thanks!
It turns out, it must have just been a bad coil after all. It shorted out inside the windings and reduced the wire resistance and over heated. The replacement coil works fine now. Nothing else found. I did or course, change the coil sleeve as well.
Quoted from KJS:Leaving the club for a 3rd time...
Reckon I'll be crazy enough to return for a 4th time!
Love never dies!
KJS[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
How can you sell that gothic masterpiece?!
FYI, last night I installed this Williams coil mount bracket on the castle lock mech and it fixed the problem I was having with the balls jumping over the disappearing post. The hole where post passes through the bracket was worn and oblong (it's normally an oval, but was worn into a larger uneven oval). Nothing else was wrong.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10008
detail (resized).jpg Also, it turns out, it must have just been a bad coil on my right gate after all. It shorted out inside the windings and reduced the wire resistance and over heated during the coil test which ran for about a minute as I was inspecting the gate, as it would not close. The replacement coil works fine now. Nothing else found. I did of course, clean the mech and change the coil sleeve as well.
Quoted from lrosent345:Making pinball ramps is not rocket science but there is definitly a learning curve that wastes material and money. After 6 years of doing this, I still am learning.
Start a thread and teach us!
FYI new owners!
I ordered some frosted LED bulbs for the back box from Comet Pinball to add a little color and get rid of some heat back there. Be warned that the back box is all wedge (555) bulbs and the frosted or clear type wedge bulbs do not fit very well into those sockets because of their round shape and size. Also these sockets are heat stressed plastic and very brittle and will break very easily. So only order the standard single SMD (555) bulbs with no lens (pictured in the middle below) rather than the frosted or clear ones with the dome covers.
1SMD_Bulbs_compact (resized).png
The wedge (906) 8 SMD work great for your flashers (pictured on right below).
Comet_Pinball_8SMD_Flasher-Recovered_compact (resized).jpg
Problem turned out to be out of spec bulb sockets. See picture @ post #8556 on page 172 this thread.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Is BSD unique compared to other WPC titles with regards to the backbox lighting? I have used 2smd frosted bulbs in a bunch of WPC games and had no issues at all. I have a BSD, but its in the backlog of repairs right now, so I haven't got to doing bulbs yet.
I'm not sure as this is my first WPC game. My F-14 (System 11) was all 44 sockets in the back box.
The 2 smd will work fine as long as you don't order them with the lens!!! I use the 1 smd just to keep the brightness down to reduce playfield glass glare.
Quoted from DudeRegular:Right on. I will have to take a look. My BSD doesn't boot so I haven't done much to it yet until I sort out the issues there. In other titles, I have really liked the frosted bulbs in the backbox (and all over really). The main positive of having the frosted domes to me is diffusing the light which is a really good effect.
Yes, which is why I ordered all frosted bulbs only to find out that the sockets don't like them at all! It's the way they're built. They have 4 corners that stick up and do not allow the dome lens bulbs to seat properly. And if you try forcing them at all, the corners of the socket break off (super brittle).
Added over 3 years ago:
Yes, but it's because of the sockets. The socket corners catch the bulbs that have the dome lenses (frosted and clear type). So only use bulbs with no lens or they will NOT seat properly!
Added over 3 years ago:
Quoted from Grandnational007:Weird, I would "think" the wedge bases would all be the same, regardless of dome/no dome/number of smd's...
I'm guessing it was a batch/lot that was manufactured out of comet's specified tolerance.
IF, big IF, you wanted to go to the trouble, you could sand a little material off the corners of each wedge so they fit better. Or, you could just try a different batch of bulbs. Weird.
While we're on the topic of bulbs, I generally only buy Cointakers and Comets; and always with a frosted dome. If I need to, I can just pull the domes off and have the flat top style.
Yes, I will try pulling some of the lenses, but not sure if that will make any difference as it's the base that the socket corners hit.. I did order some new 555 sockets to install as some are pretty loose. These new sockets accommodate the new style bulbs. But the bulbs are definitely NOT the same in this case. I did break off the corners on several sockets and the bulbs still don't seat as well as their non lens counterparts.
Added over 3 years ago:
Quoted from roffels:I installed comet wedge domed bulbs a few months back without problems. I did not use every socket though to reduce brightness.
[quoted image]
Then something changed! 
You can get some to work, but many are not seated well and fail with machine vibration in my case. Some don't seat at all (the bulbs are good). No problems with the non lens type bulbs at all though!
Quoted from Grandnational007:That really sounds like a manufacturing defect. Comet has always done me right. Maybe contact Ryan and see what's up, even if it's just to let him know.
I wonder if I have different sockets than you do? It's hard to be certain from your pic, but they do look to be the same.
Added over 3 years ago:Discovered the problem!
It is out of spec bulbs. Notice the thicker plastic wedge base. See post #8556 on page 172 in this thread for a picture.
Quoted from Grandnational007:The one with the dba is "domestic market", the one with the the three vertical stampings is "foreign market".
So if your example was a US game, then it should have the one with the dba, and if it was an export/re-import, it would have the one with the three stamps.
Thanks!
I have the Domestic one.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Interesting, I just learned something new. Regardless, the coin slots on the bottom one are crooked as Hell and its driving me insane just looking at it!!!
You can adjust those. If the door is dented in there, you'll have to pound out the dent first.
FYI.
if you plan to airbrush your faded red on cab decals, this is actually the better paint to use as it doesn't require heat setting to develop a good finish. A 2oz bottle will be plenty. Get a 2oz bottle of black for touch up as well.
Createx Wicked colors.
Quoted from freddy:Why waste your time ?
Radcal that bitch!
Quick easy and awesome !
Decals in excellent shape and it's less work actually! Already spent enough on this table with all the mods and Pinsound system.
See my posts #8461-8463
Quoted from roffels:Can you share photos of your results?
See my posts #8461-8463 previous page
Quoted from roffels:Looks good! Not sure why that other person downvoted you, I certainly can't blame you for spending a few bucks on paint vs stripping the cabinet and dumping $400 into decals.
I might have to try this.
I have Radcals on my Hobbit LE. They are super nice and durable.
But, I'm already done with the whole project! It cost me nothing but some time and it looks great! I already had everything to do it!
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I may radcal mine this winter. I've never used them before, but they appear to be an incredible product. Does anyone know of a source for them in the U.S. ?
PinballSales.com
1545 Rt 37W Suite 13
Toms River, NJ 08755
http://www.pinballsales.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=350&idcategory=43
Quoted from Elicash:Guys, is it true that if you get through 10 video modes there is an animation of Dracula washing your car?
I searched pinside for this and didnt find anything.
I heard about this in a Keith Elwyn video on youtube.
If anyone has done this, do you have video? would be cool to see.
LOL! I heard that and If true I'd shit! But, I can't imagine ever getting there!
I do enjoy slamming Renfield into the bars though!
MV5BMmQ1OTdmNmQtYWI2MC00OGM1LWJiZTgtMzBjYzVhZWVlMjY4XkEyXkFqcGdeQXVyOTc5MDI5NjE@._V1_ (resized).jpg
I just installed the blue Tilt Graphics Harvest Moon blades. I will post some pics.. But I think the red would be great too! Either will look good.
Quoted from DudeRegular:I was able to get this BSD I have up and playing (with some issues still) but figured I would document what has happened so far.
When I got the game it would not boot at all. I re-did a couple of connectors and headers on the driver board. after that unplugging ribbon cables and trying a couple different boards would get the MPU to come up but not fully start the game. Also the mist motor was running constantly. Eventually I got the game booting into attract mode after re-attaching all ribbon cables and disconnecting the mist motor power.
At that point the game still had no coil power and cabinet buttons were not working. The coils turned out to be a fuse. Then I put a new connector on the cabinet switches at the mpu. As it stands right now the game boots and starts a game. No sound however. There are a few various opto/switch errors and I have to figure out why the mist motor was constantly running.
Looking forward to getting this one back to full health. Cab is nice minus the usual red fade.The playfield is in pretty good shape and should clean up really well too. Once the errors are sorted out I plan to do a full shop on it with titan rings and comet leds.
Also to the guy who was having issues with led bulbs in the back board, I had no issues. I put comet 2smd throughout with zero issues.
Ya, I said I had problems with the frosted or clear bulbs with the lens. I appears I have a defective batch of bulbs that have thick wedge bases (out of spec). Thy are too tight and the wires are not making contact with socket. Anyone buying Comet with lenses beware of this. Mine were the 1smd frosted. You can compare a normal one to them and see the difference easily. Lucky I had a couple normal ones to compare them to. Here is a pic...
DSCN0251 (resized).JPG
I have noticed several times now that during multi ball both flippers suddenly go dead. Usually it's just for a second or two, but twice now, I had to reset the game with the menu button to get power back to flippers. Anyone have this problem?
My Drac came with standard flippers when I bought it. I watched a Bowen Kerins tutorial video on Dracula and he stated that the lightning flippers (in addition to being 1/8" shorter) make it harder to cradle and post pass. So I am reluctant to swap them out. I do like how the game plays now. Still plenty challenging! Or am I missing something?
Also, my out lanes are medium gap. I assume this was the default??
Quoted from roffels:Playing with lightning flippers will make you play other games better.
Ya. I had an Alice Copper for 18 months for that! It got too frustrating for me and everyone else that played it. Shots were too narrow on that game. Other than that, one of the most awesome games especially for a haunted theme!
Damn!
Good luck trying to replace the incandescent bulbs under Drac coffin figure! I broke two bulbs trying to remove them and I was careful! I just left the center one alone as it would be impossible! I'd suggest just getting a new Coffin 3-Lamp PC Board, but I see they're no longer available. 
I did get it back together, but had to re solder one socket that broke loose while trying to dig out the broken glass! What a PITA! At least two bulbs are LED now and I used the sunlight white which does illuminate the Drac figure a little better.
P.S.
I was assuming there was a green light in the coffin light board. But for those of you that never took it apart, it's just the regular bulbs shining through the green PCB light board making the green light inside of coffin.
unnamed (resized).jpgQuoted from roffels:That green light thing bothered me for the longest time
It's not so bad. But change the back plate light to a blue LED. Looks a millions times better. That one drove me nuts!
Quoted from DudeRegular:Bro... you have no luck with bulbs and BSD!
If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all!
Comet is sending me some new LEDs that'll work. My BSD needed a lot of TLC! Totally worth it. Game is figgin awesome!!!
Quoted from mbaumle:Is it just me, or does this game have unusually good DMD animations for the era? I'm having a hard time thinking of a game that looks better. Everything from making an Asylum shot and throwing Reinfeld into the bars, loop shots, and Altars just seems so... fluid, and the "ambient" flicker effect is so good. Hell, even the attract mode "Williams" animation is shadowed and different from other games.
Those plasma displays look better than the LED displays that Stern used on their later games too.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:The animations do look amazing for the era. A color dmd is so worth it. Even with the added cost of the clear speaker grille cover
I just saw a BSD with the color LED DMD at Ann Arbor Pinball Showcase and it was really nice! But I'm glad I put the money towards the Pinsound system instead. I've already added some of my own sounds and it's awesome! The red DMD suits this game well IMO.
Quoted from paulie484:Just completed a full led and rubber change out...wow !! what a experience !!! .... I hope it's a while before I have to do that again !
Titan Silicone is the best IMO. It's amazing how much nicer my games play! The most important ones to add Titans too are the flippers and slings .
Quoted from mollyspub:I actually hate those things! Too bouncy if you ask me. Picked up a Indy 500 and the previous owner had these on. Couldn't wait to get em off and go with standard white .
Try Pinball Life Perfect Play if you want to see bouncy!
And I just swapped out the the standard white with Titans on flippers and slings and it plays nicer IMO. Matter of personal taste I guess.
Not sure why people think Titans are more bouncy. From my experience they're not. Their silicon is less bouncy than rubber. Especially the white rubbers. Titans give me better control. They also hold up better. Most guys I play with agree and they play all the time and are better than I am generally. Hard to keep up with these young bucks!
Here is one of the coin door decals I ordered form Pinball Haus. It was made for a coin door with a wider decal section, but I just cut off the right side and fitted it on.
PINBALL HAUS DRACULA COIN DOOR DECAL
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1026-pinball-haus/03617-dracula-coin-door-decal
01 (resized).JPG02 (resized).JPG03 (resized).JPG
I sent in my power driver and CPU boards to Chris Hibler for diagnostics and bullet proofing and I didn't even know there was alkaline corrosion as I couldn't notice it when I checked. But there was corrosion and he did a lot of work to abate it as well as installing NVRAM and new caps and several new headers. Lucky I sent it in! Super fast turnaround time and top notch service!! Here is the video of the repair!
http://chrishiblerpinball.com/Contact/
Anyone remove red color for Drac DMD speaker panel? If so, how?
I might actually install a color LED display if I don't have to buy a new speaker panel.
Ya, I saw that video, but I didn't know if BSD panel was actually paint like that panel was? If so, great!
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Yep, BSD and all Gottlieb system 3 games that have red in from of the DMD is a red painted window on that speaker panel plastic.
Awesome!!
Thank You!!
Quoted from dr_nybble:Be warned that the RadCals are a double-edged sword. They look nice but your cabinet better not have rounded over corners/edges, or the RadCals with hang over. They go right to the edge of the cabinet.
I was wondering if you could just cut the Radcals edges off so you can install them like normal cabinet decals? Then just spray paint the corners black before installing decals.
Quoted from Aflacjack:I trimmed my White Water Radcals with a dremel bit with a roller guide. Turned out great
Ya, it seems like a lot of unnecessary work and hassle to have squared up corners. Not normal for pinball decals and seems it would be very susceptible to damage! A sharp plastic corner vs a blunt wooded corner. 
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:New Mirco playfield, RadCals, armor, Comet LEDs, plastics, Mirrored Backglass, Titan rubbers, Carlton Violet powder coat all in tha house!! Already scored a pinsound board and color DMD. What on earth could pimp cat Scribbles be up to???
You're definitely passionate!
Quoted from curban:decided to play around with colored epoxy on the hinges and coin door. I’m pleased with how they’ve turned out. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That's BadAss!!
Quoted from Leechman:My bsd I just picked up does a factory reset after power cycle. I replaced the batteries but no different. I'm assuming it's the battery holder possibly? Can anything else cause that? I ordered one of those nvram's to get rid of the batteries but just thought I'd see if there's anything else I should look at while waiting for it
Also could be bad IDC connectors. Chris Hibler addresses this in the video I posted here on page 173, Post #8635
Re pin female side of J101 and J114. It's best to get rid of the IDC connectors and get a crimp tool and install Molex connectors with Trifurcon crimps.
Quoted from McDoom:Help with the multi-ball issues.
I’ll explain this the best way I know-how.
When I go into multi-ball mode, the game continues to load balls into the shooter lane and launches them into play continuously even if I drain. (basically multi ball doesn't end and won't time out).
My mist multi ball works as intended (carries ball across playfield) about 10% of the time.
Usually, when I go into mist multiball the balls just come down from the left lane and where ever else they are released from. 90% the ball doesn't travel across the playfeild.
Just throwing it out there, but on my ACNC I had magnetized balls and they would stick together and not sit down properly on the switches in the ball trough. So lost ball confusion.
Quoted from The_Pump_House:The ole harbor freight transmission lift
1000 Lb. Capacity Hydraulic Table Cart
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-60438.html
Added over 2 years ago:$100.00 cheaper version of cart above.... https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-61405.html
**Plenty good enough for home use!
Quoted from November:I'm officialy new in the club, finally.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I wish I had a Congo! 
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Just joined the club!!
Where did you get those speaker cover crosses? I love em!
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I love knockers
[quoted image]
Those would bust the door in!
Dracula is a complex game. Cool to see all the hardware before wiring harness installed.
Thanks for the pic!
Quoted from Micky:Where did you find that pic? That looks so good!
A friend of mine sent it to me.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:. I've only run into a few instances where I had to relocate the hole for a mechanism or post.
Ya, my PPS repro F-14 playfield had several dimples off. The worst one was the pop bumper stack switch out of position. It was a major PITA to get it right! This is the worst part of doing a playfield swap. And I just finished my Gorgar Hard Top installation, and that is no cake walk either, although easier for sure. 
Quoted from mcuzz:I Slam him, 5 million is 5 million
I did not know this was worth 5 mil! But I always slam him!!
Quoted from Pinkitten:Awesome, thanks very much for the info! I ordered a Pinsound Plus board and USB stick. I also have a Polk sub I’m not using that I will connect. Thanks again for taking so much time to work on this. When I watched the videos with the movie soundtrack integrated so well, I just had to upgrade. I’ve watched that movie many times. Can’t wait to try it!
I love the movie so the upgrade was worth it for me. But if using an external sub (which I do) along with the Pinsound speakers. You will have to find the balance with your EQ so the sub does not get over powered by the cab speakers. I had to also crank my sub all the way up. It took some messing around to find the sweat spot.
Quoted from mollyspub:Where’s the best place to pick up pinsound? Should I just order directly from their site?
I got mine from Kay's Arcade along with the blank USB stick. Download the software yourself and save a pile. Unzip the archive on your computer and then copy to USB stick. Much faster! And this is huge... If you do any editing of sounds of any kind, you must delete the old cache file on the USB stick. The Pinsound system with automatically write a new one for you. Otherwise, the old cache will keep being read, and your edits will not be seen.
I finally had a chance to play another BSD with lightening flippers. Mine never had them. What I noticed was that the orbit and ramp shots are more consistantly makable.. But post passes and cradling multiple balls is harder obviously. I'm going to install lightening flippers after all.
Quoted from poppapin:Question, where do you guys buy your balls from?
I had the balls sticking when in mist mode, I replaced the balls with new ones and it's still doing it.
I got these from Titan, I think when I bought some rubber.
I went ahead and placed an order thru Pinball Life.
I always get pin balls from Pinball Life.
But if you mean that a ball sticks to the Mist ball when it's moving across the playfield, that's normal LOL. It's magnetized by the moving magnet below. Sorry if I misunderstood you.
BTW, that's part of what makes the Mist ball toy so awesome! It happens fairly often. That, or your ball knocks the Mist ball off the magnet and gets caught by the magnet itself! It can be maddening at times!
Quoted from paulie484:I am looking at putting in some upgraded 5.25" speakers in my BSD and also will add some diy led lights
Do I need to open up the smaller speaker cutout in the timber base board to match the larger speaker ?? - so that the led lighting effect is constant each side ? ?
- ie before if unscrew the old speakers, underneath are these are they two different sized circular openings ?
TIA
These older pins do not have the audio fidelity to justify this upgrade. Save your money for other more worthwhile mods! If you install a Pinsound audio board, then you can upgrade your sound library and speakers! Otherwise, forget it.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:A Polk10 sub sounds pretty freaking nice with this game and you can hook another 4 games to it. 100 bucks. Talk about a money saver.
Yes, a sub can help a lot depending on the game! Now with my old F-14, it would not be the case. Games that old usually lacked the low-end fidelity to even utilize the sub frequencies. For Dracula, I installed the Pinsound Plus sound board and upgraded to their speaker kit and still hooked up my external sub. Their cabinet woofer was so powerful that I had to play with the EQ to keep it from overpowering the external sub which had to be at max volume LOL! But the extra lows make it even better!
I rigged up two flasher boards from Comet Pinball on the rear of back box which I wired to the back glass flasher behind Dracula's face. They flash with the thunder and when he talks. The effect with the thunder and lightning is great!
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:amazon.com link »
This has been the best buy for my pin. 400 watts. 200 rms. $200
Wayyyyyy better imo than the Polk 100w.. which is only 50.. and not enough tbh.
I was curious about that one? I'd love to compare them.
The problem with multiple pins and subs, is when you get several people over playing several machines at once, it become a thunder dome! I usually shut the subs off in this case. The Polk 10 is Plenty IMO. The one on my Drac is not a Polk 10 but some cheapo I had from years ago. It does the job though.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:How many pins can you hook up to it?
With one of these, you can hook up 5 pins to one sub. But, only play one game at a time through it for best results.
https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsmx-passive-subwoofer-mixer
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I have one of those on my Polk. Definitely worth having the ability to adjust the bass. However, it looks like the sub he was suggesting would only operate 1 pin unless you purchased this add on.
It only adjusts the volume for each pin. I have two 4 ways.
But ya, the Polk 10 allow for two connections in back.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I put RadCals from Mirco on mine. Beware though the black background on the left side head panel had a slight purple tint to it. Mirco refused to make it right. You can't tell in a lineup anyway, but it's disappointing. Other than that, the RadCals look freaking amazing!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Mirco is not a company I'd do business with. I'm glad your Radcals turned out OK.
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Omaha, NE