With a 3.5B, I'm surprised you'd want narrower lanes and longer flippers (or have 20M average games)..unless it's to make guests happier in the short run. I've tried a BSD with regular flippers and didn't prefer it at all. I like that the game punishes bad shots and makes the good ones more rewarding. I certainly wouldn't play with 5 balls as I don't find it difficult to get 4-5 ball games with 3 balls (5 loops extra ball is very easy, and getting to level 2 on video mode isn't too hard either). Just a subjective area I suppose. Eventually I'd like to participate in tournaments and would never want to learn on a machine that is easier (control-wise) than what I'd find at an event.

The black looks way better IMO. Something I'd consider doing to my own. I'd consider the red a downgrade from stock. Perhaps red sides/lockdown and black legs would be okay, but I'd still prefer all black if the choice were mine.

I wasn't aware of the color issue when I ordered it, but saw it noted here before it arrived. Mine does have the purple, but it doesn't look bad at all on the machine, and unnoticeable during play. Still better than the somewhat foggy panel I had before.

Also, the LED ColorDMD is very impressive and has way more pop/definition than the LCD screens IMO (I'd gladly get LED again for certain machines, but I like the smoothing option on the LCD too). Just with the new LED screen set on red, I see more detail than I realized was in the dots (compared to the original setup as it was). Had I known it would look so good, I would have wanted it without the impending color

Just noticed with the Color DMD that the "SUN" frame (after putting in your initials) hasn't been colored. Not sure if this has been discovered yet or if it's worth reporting to Color DMD for possible revision.

It still shows the scrolls and reads something to the effect of "Oh no - Not the Sun -AGHHHH"

It was as a Grand Champion when I just last did it (cheated to see the color animations :p). I don't recall if that was necessary to see the text frame.

Did you check each wire for continuity through the coiled magnet cable? (diode/continuity setting on a meter). I just finally got around to fixing my light that hadn't worked since I got it. No visibly broken wires, but a test showed there was a break (test further down the line if it checks out good). I ended up just soldering in a new wire (can't seem to find a new cable in stock anywhere).

Ultimately the entire length of wire that connects to the mist light socket (if nearby wires check out good), but the coiled magnet cable (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16311) that moves every time the magnet moves tends to eventually break the wires internally. Heck, by fixing my light, I managed to break/exacerbate one of the magnet wires and had to fix that too.

Just pull the connector out (at the coiled cable) that goes to the socket and test from the pin to the corresponding socket wire. On the diode setting, if you touch each end of a wire, it will read OL if there is a break. Any reading that isn't OL (even 0.00) is a good reading for continuity. Wiggling the coiled cable (while testing) here may help reveal a break that touches some of the time, but not when the magnet is moving.

No, the wires going to the light socket are separate from the magnet . You will see two separate connectors at the tail of the coiled cable. Of course the wire colors will indicate which one is for the light.

I soldered in a new piece of wire for the time being as the cable assembly seems to be hard to find. If enough of the wire is good at the connector, you can strip a bit of that and solder/heat shrink (or method you prefer) just the one bad wire. I loosely wrapped the new wire around the coiled cable so that it can move freely with the cable and tight enough that it wouldn't catch on anything.

Preferably I'd also like to find a new assembly if they become available (perhaps I don't know where to look?), but for now it's working with the quick fix.

Been chasing a Mist issue myself. I've had BSD for about 2.5 years now and while it was mostly good in the past, it could always be finicky. Recently it completely stopped working and would just do the ball dump over and over again (not something it had never done before, but this time it never comes back to life). Magnet function seems good. In all previous tests I'd do when an issue came up, the beam could be broken by my hand--that no longer happens (it stays closed unless the receiver responds to a remote control).

I replaced both capacitors, see no obvious issues on the board (L1 inductor is connected). I can see the beam from the transmitter on a camera. The receiver was fairly responsive to a remote control at close distance before, but now seems somewhat intermittent at even recognizing the remote control signal. Could that suggest the receiver opto is suspect? Getting over 12V on the receiver side, but only .95 Volts on the transmitter side (not certain what I'm supposed to be seeing there, but was expecting 12V). The .95 V reading is the same at the board, so perhaps the issue is at the board. The board itself is getting 12V (13+ I believe), and the LED is on.

Appreciate any insight anyone may have as I continue to diagnose the issue and before I throw more parts at it.

Already went ahead and ordered that and both optos from PBL . Prefer to fix issues myself when possible, but after the caps failed to fix it and issues seemed to get weirder, I was willing to give up this time. Hopefully the board is the fix, and I figure the opto set is good to have on hand either way (of all my machines, BSD is the only one I couldn't imagine selling).

The adjuster is fixed (glued) into place on my board (perhaps that's something new they are doing). Green light worked out of the box and Mist is now working, however, now the ball ends when only one ball drains during multiball--this never happened with the old board when it worked.

I now get "lamp interference" in test mode for the opto check and suspect this could be the issue, though a search here brings up the homepin board and others that have removed 20+ LEDs with the same issue persisting after installing the hompin. While my GI bulbs around the optos were always incandescent, I'll start pulling Leds in the vicinity to see if that makes it disappear.

Thanks for the lead.

EDIT: Thus far, the magnet test clearly shows that at least the Castle/Hellsing flashers interfere with the beam (beam flickers when they flicker, and the test notes flasher interference). Both of those flashers are incandescent though and shouldn't be causing such issues I would have thought.

EDIT 2: I swapped the incandescent flashers out for flat LED flashers and no longer get flasher interference in test, but still "lamp interference." Will try pulling some other LEDs. Otherwise, the magnet test still runs fine and grabs the ball, takes it back, etc. As noted, it's just ending the round with one ball drained during mist-multi (mist-multi starts fine in game after knocking the ball off track).

/\/\ these posts seem to echo the lamp interference issue that showed up in relation to a homepin board.

Is there anything about the potentiometer setting on the homepin board that can adjust sensitivity?

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Same results for any working setting (I also tried settings outside the green range). Not a large range for working settings.

The beam responds normally to a hand blocking it (lights don't seem to cause an issue at that point), but when the opto test happens and it blinks the lights, it flickers with them.

I had actually discovered that post before and had pulled those two bulbs completely out, yet got the same result. Those are incans, and the first bulb below the trans and the receiver optos are also incan. I'm about to get back at it (I do have red LEDs in the vicinity that could be suspect).

With the new homepin board, I also noted that the receiver opto responds to a remote from a much larger range and distance than with the old board, where it would previously only respond when pointed closer and more direct. Not sure how relevant that may be, but the receiver is clearly way more sensitive now (I would expect that it really shouldn't be failing opto check with the factory spec. flashers, etc. that gave it issues).

New receiver opto ended up being the fix (swapped after checking the solder joints at the old opto and testing continuity). No more lamp interference in test and the ball no longer ends after Mist multi. Hopefully my experience helps someone down the road, but it's clear the Mist issues are hard to pinpoint as the same symptoms can be so many different things.

Thanks, and I appreciate the help

Finished up a new mod earlier today. Was a suggestion from a fellow Pinsider (rubberducks) as he asked me to come up with a way to deal with the visible switches. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-interactive-led-stained-glass-castle-switch-covers-mod-thread#post-4069479

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Just seeing this now. Thank you for the compliment. I posted the less involved "Ruins" version in the updated mod thread.

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Up and down from top and bottom Hope these can help.

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Sorry, just seeing this now, but it seems you already found it. I appreciate the interest.

Otherwise, this is the mod thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-interactive-led-stained-glass-castle-switch-covers-mod-thread#post-4074320

And the shop listing with all variations: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/01377-interactive-castle-bram-stoker-s-dracula-bsd-switch-covers

Just how it is on Drac (photo angle makes mine look lower [taken with the glass on], but it's the same as yours):

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For those still interested, I took $5 off the 3 piece Ruins set and 2 piece Tomb/skull set for Cyber Monday today : https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/01377-interactive-castle-bram-stoker-s-dracula-bsd-switch-covers

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For those with the Brock coffin mod that were interested in the switch covers (Ruins/LED Castle), I updated my thread and sale page today to offer a new version that will fit with some leeway for variations in fitment (thanks again to jazzmaster for help with test-fitting and photos).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-interactive-led-stained-glass-castle-switch-covers-mod-thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/01377-interactive-castle-bram-stoker-s-dracula-bsd-switch-covers

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I coincidentally had the same issues after installing LEDs in my machine. It started out as intermittent mist issues and shooting out two balls (sometimes everything would work fine), but eventually mist wouldn't work at all. Tried replacing the opto board with no benefit, tried blocking and pulling LEDs to no avail, but replacing the receiver opto on the the left fixed all of my issues. Worth a shot if other troubleshooting fails. In test, I could see the transmitter opto working fine, but the receiver gave wonky results when trying to trigger with a remote control (during the mist/magnet test).

An issue with the mist optos or opto board can potentially be a cause for ending multiball early, or an issue with the ball trough (not sure if this comes up at times with the castle lock opto or not as well). Do you ever have issue with the mist function? You may be able to test it by turning the mist/magnet feature off and see if it stops having that issue, or do a switch test for the trough.

Also, if the game ever spits out two balls without multiball, the arm sometimes needs to be adjusted for the shooter lane VUK.

On my game, it was the left/receiver opto that went bad and ended multiballs early (and did so gradually/intermittently for a long time before completely failing).

Are you missing the clear plastic in the attached picture? (looks like it's missing in your photo). Likely the answer. Someone on Etsy sells replacements.

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Yes, both come together. Link below:

Agreed. LED looks the best in Dracula IMO. I thought it would be the same for my Dredd, but I wish I went LCD on that one. Generally I prefer the LCD, but BSD really works well with LED and looks odd to me with the LCD high-res setting.

You'd think a blood-red display makes sense for BSD, but the color is a huge upgrade

Just opened a sale page for my coffin and headstone mods. As always, I appreciate the interest, and Happy Halloween!

Mod thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-custom-bsd-coffin-and-headstone-mods-medisinyl-mods-dracula

Sale page: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/02013-bsd-fanged-coffin-casket-and-headstone-mod-replacement

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Thank you!

And yes it does, but I may be of the minority that likes it for the most part (detail could be better for sure). With the smoked dome, my mind fills in the rest as being better than it is

I had a request to make torches that work with my mod, so I'm in the midst of that.
Here's a work in progress video clip (still need to make the handles).

Excellent news Thank you. If you do happen to post any pics once your project is complete, I'll be looking forward to them

While addressing some cold solder on the castle optos, I finally decided I couldn't look at the factory village/castle coloring anymore.

I'll post some pics when they're installed (hopefully later today).
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You get an upvote, but I'm with Joe on the trim

May just go with black legs one day to spruce it up And heck, I need to get around to putting production versions of my mods in my own game, haha (now they look particularly dull next to the painted village/castle, but the production paint-job would match). Guess the graveyard also stands out as being dull now (may hide a light behind the LED castle [pointed at the graveyard] when I pull everything to re-paint).

And again, no rush at all on those mods--I'll be keeping myself busy one way or another

Eventually I want to add some green under-cab lighting to activate with the mist (I currently have strips behind the back-box that tie in with the rear lightning/Dracula flashers--really enhances the lightning effect).

Here's several installed pics. Hopefully they add to the pool of inspiration for those that also decide to tackle these themselves. One option I believe I only saw one other time in the thread, is painting that strip at the bottom of the village in stone color, as that's what's present in the sculpt (ties the stone portion in a bit better IMO). Though admittedly, with that wire-form in the way, you'd have to be looking for that detail anyway

Note: For those with a keen eye, yes, I'm aware I need to fix that broken/loose rubber near the mist ball gate
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Thank you! Presuming you mean the paint on the factory village/castle, I painted them myself.

Otherwise, I believe you're already familiar with my mods (the coffin set/torches are more recent additions to my BSD mods).

The long one is ~82mm (~3.23") and the short one is ~28mm (~1.1"). Measured while in the machine, so likely a bit wonky (think there's a small gap at the bottom of my short one for example), but 3 1/4" and 1" may be what that translates to for post length. Hope that helps

EDIT: There's also a thin washer at the bottom of my short post (I don't see one on yours, and I'm not sure what's factory). There is no washer on my longer post. This would make the overall height of my short post about 1-1.5 or so mm higher (I initially measured from on top of the washer).

Running a sale until Sunday night on all of my BSD mods Thanks again to all of those that have purchased the switch covers over the last year (by far my #1 selling mod).

Switch covers: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/01377-interactive-castle-bram-stoker-s-dracula-bsd-switch-covers

Headstone/coffin/torch mods: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1104-medisinyl-mods/02013-bsd-fanged-coffin-casket-and-headstone-mod-replacement

Awesome! I really appreciate the chance to see them installed in your game and the positive feedback (nice to see them with blue lights for the first time).

As a standalone, I like the art style a lot (almost like antique stained glass). Doesn't look anything like crayon. I do agree on the color clash though, and at a minimum, the green mist color should match the playfield (though perhaps that's explained in Trident's post above).

That said, I do prefer ball visibility in that area, but know a lot of people like the prototype plastics too (used to think I wanted them until I experienced them on location).

Not an issue I've had on BSD, but I've had similar happen on another game and the fix was simply adjusting the habitrail to be better centered on the inlane.

This definitely looks better than the factory translite IMO (better than the other options I've seen as well), but I expect I wouldn't want to sacrifice the interactivity that lines up with the factory translite.

Looks to be a great deal indeed. Includes a Pinsound board (usually about $400?) and has new optos/opto board. I Imagine it won't last long at all (sort of thing that would have been gone in minutes if posted on FL's Village BBS [eBay is never on my radar with how pricing there usually is]).

While I thought it looked a bit off or cheesy when I first got into the hobby, it grew on me after owning the game and watching the film, and I prefer it over the alternates I've seen thus far. Looking forward to what CPR does with a mirrored version.

Very cool!

For the teeth, if you haven't tried it already, when pouring the resin, if you fill it partially to cover those teeth that are getting bubbles, you may find success by angling the mold around a bit to get the air out of there before pouring the rest of the resin.

I'm digging these decals, but is the image off due to the way these are produced, or installation? It's also missing a chunk of the art at the bottom of the cabinet. I borrowed this image from the gallery, but factory games all have the decals lined up as one image with the extra artwork at the bottom.

Awaiting the CPR backglass, and may decide to overhaul these other aspects afterward (BSD currently in a line-up, but will be on its own when GB leaves). These decals seem to be a good candidate if they can be installed with the factory alignment and artwork.

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And purchased The SoF glass was a huge upgrade IMO, and my BSD has had a burn hole on Dracs face that I'm glad I'll finally remedy.
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Will do

Had a row out that was causing the shooter lane switch to not register, bats to start on their own (castle optos), coffin ramp issues, etc. (everything associated with that row) Was intermittent for awhile, but ultimately stopped working completely.

Was able to seemingly isolate the issue to the MPU board by pulling connectors and getting the same result at the pins (didn't see cold solder or connection problems at the time and reconnected everything with no additional issue).

Last night I replaced the U20 chip to see if it would change anything (no other changes other than this swap [didn't lift the playfield between, etc.])... blew F104 and F105 and the DMD wasn't showing anything. Replaced fuses and checked all the connectors. Turned the game on again (mistake) and it immediately popped off. No blown fuses I can see, but now the game is stone dead. No response at all from the power switch, no lights on the boards.

Driver board is Rottendog as well as the DMD. Other boards likely original.

Figured I'd ask here for a head start if there are any ideas.

Seems crazy to just replace that chip and kill the machine

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Currently away until Sunday night, but thank you for some direction for when I get back.

Didn't have much time to troubleshoot, so I only checked what was visible at the boards and under the playfield and couldn't see anything obvious.

Will do some proper tests this week.

Thank you!

It's common for the red to be faded on BSD--I expect they're just saying their game isn't faded anywhere.

EDIT 2: These have now all been sold.

While I hadn't noticed it on the original, only the marble version of the coffin mod allows light to pass through.

I appreciate the glowing feedback. I'll try to live up to it

And you've got my "all-time fave" BSD

EDIT: All BSD mods have now been claimed.

For anyone with the mods that may not have noticed, I uploaded the torches I made for my headstone design to Thingiverse to freely download (as well as the casket accessories): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4857211 (the main files won't be released, and the BSD mods are indeed permanently discontinued--sorry to disappoint those hoping otherwise).

Early video test of the fire effect without handles:

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I appreciate the interest in the set, but they are indeed permanently discontinued.

The only mods that have had a hard # cap have been the AMH set and 40th anniversary Elvira set, and to a lesser extent, the TMNT mods were discontinued before demand was reasonably satisfied, out of necessity, though eventually most mods have had about 3 years of availability before being discontinued, and that will always be the case.

When I discontinued the BSD mods (~Feb. 2021), I discontinued a lot of mods, as my backlog got to be up to 6 months--it was a difficult situation to have my hands tied to production so long with no ability to design new stuff and have a creative release. Felt like an insurmountable wall, and it continued to grow. After ~2.5 years, I've finally caught up with the Elvira demand this month.

I gave in to hiring help at this time as well to buy the time to make the AMH set (a friend, and former art teacher that can be seen in the video below ).

After this point, the cost of help on BSD sets exceeded what I was charging, but I did make final run calls to give a reasonable close to them.

My stance has always been to stick to my word on discontinued mods, and this helps me move forward with new creations and streamline existing ones (also many have relied on the stance, and I don't intend to set a precedent against it).

However, while I still like the coffin set I made, I look at the BSD castle set as a weak effort that doesn't live up to what I've done since. It was the best I knew how to do in 2017, but I cringe at it now (particularly the LED version that is geometrically poor IMO, though still the one I use).

Not impossible that one day I will do something different for BSD, or some sort of V2 re-imagining. It deserves better, but there's a lot of games I'd like to get to.

The set was designed with reasonable visibility in mind, and also to not obscure the backboard skill-shot lighting. It doesn't block any sight lines for shots (with the ruins version blocking next to nothing from player perspective). Though I personally like when the ball disappears into some structures.

Back then, I also accepted requests, and this set was a request to cover the visible switches.

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My current focus is shifted to Stranger Things, which will be fully revealed by the end of June:

They were indeed permanently discontinued.

As noted before, there's some chance I'll revisit BSD one day with a different/better set, but that wouldn't be for a long time if it does happen.

Still one of my favorite games, and it deserves better than that early effort.

No plan to re-issue, though some chance I'd create some re-imagining or something completely new in the future, but as you may know, my hands have been tied to long production periods (currently STh), and some ideas have been on the backburner for several years. No telling when/if I'll find the time to get back to BSD, but my game won't be going anywhere, and hopefully it can come together eventually.

While early versions of the piece I made had the "z," (mixed information online at the time) I was informed the correct spelling is "Elisabeta," and later versions were changed accordingly.

You may also want to consider the surrounding geometry for a better fit. While my version isn't great overall on details, the grass portion did take the ramp shape into account to look more designed into the game.

I believe LED is the way to go on BSD. The flickering lights in some scenes with the brightness variance helps maintain creepiness and pops more than LCD. The LCD is more dull (less dynamic) in that regard IMO (though of course I prefer LCD on games that the hi res feature looks good on).

While irrelevant to BSD, I also think LED is the way to go on any game with movie clips (Iron Man, Transformers, etc.), and even GB (again, the brightness dynamics help there, especially on Storage Facility MB).

Many colors are more vibrant on the LED as well.

...only Zuul

Praise the Lloyd

Indeed. "meds" BSD mods are weak. I've been saying this for years