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(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,578 posts
  • 630 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by GRB1959
  • Topic is favorited by 246 Pinsiders

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BSD_Ball_Lock_Adjustment.pdf (PDF preview)
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Topic index (key posts)

32 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (8 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (8 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (8 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (8 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (8 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (8 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (8 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (7 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Jodannar.
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#6403 1 year ago

Joined today. Machine is in players condition, normal wear spot, faded cab and a tiny bit of planking. It should clean up acceptably though.

"10 Opto board is shot, and will be replaced, it has attempted to have been repaired prior, unsuccessfully. The has also had some tomfoolery done inside the head, so I have onto issues (board), and no lights. Connections in the J120 - 128 region are cooled together from other connectors and spliced in via a screw header. The pinouts on the header used are i assume, salvaged from another machine as there is no wire colour continuity.. the wires have the length to make it to the socket, so i assume this was done rather than re-pinning a series of connectors properly
Someones gone snipping at some point for an unknown reason.

If anyone could post a few photos of their connectors in this area it will help me verify against the manual and re-pin/repair the section.
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#6411 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Not sure if these help too. Thanks for making me look. Looks like my J121 needs to be cleaned up so I’ll repin it when I shop my game.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thankyou. Now to get connectors and start crimping

#6420 1 year ago

Hacked connectors replaced and repinned. I now have gi and backbox lights back and no longer have a spliced wiring harness! Win!

One string of backbox seems to still be out, violet/violet white I think. Crimp looks good, I will blame charred header pins for the moment.

Thanks for the photos to double check against the schematic

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#6425 1 year ago

Does anyone know a source for the metal guides/protectors at the entry to the left ramp? I am missing both the triangle piece and the rounded end straight metal piece that sit a the entrance to the left ramp.

#6441 1 year ago

Found a new issue . Some mounts somewhere under the right castle lock are not correct. Anyone have a map of post lengths under the right ramp return?
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Definitely a wrong length (too long front) post on the sling, assuming it’s swapped with under rocks, but haven’t torn down the ramp yet to look

#6460 1 year ago

Put a new replacement Homepin Opto board last night to address the severely "tampered" board my new machine had. Success. Game is now registering and is playable, mind you with flippers needing a rebuild. Also corrected the incorrect posts on the houses and castle so that the lock shot is now not blocked by the plastic.

My left ramp opto doesn't register, and I will correct, but is it what is used to trigger the function of the diverter to the castle lock? If i continually hit the left ramp, I can register the castle lock, but the diverter doesn't engage. The diverter works under test.

#6473 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

the hex posts underneath the sculpture are wrong or not there, nothing wrong with the ball return guide. hell you could add spacers for a quick fix to the support posts under it to get the clearance. sorry, i do not know the lengths of them.

I’ve fixed the posts under the sculpts. Inlane ramp posts still aren’t completely threaded. I think the tear down guide ya a note for the Sling post lengths

1 week later
#6547 1 year ago

Almost there with my bsd. New opto board, topside tear down, new rubbers, gi leds, cliffy’s where available, fixed and replaced multiple broken optos for mist and ramps, fixed incorrect castle and house mounts. Just needs a flipper rebuild, few broken plastics, pending parts and it’ll be a nice player.

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1 week later
#6596 1 year ago

Does anyone get a hollow knock noise when a ball hits their rear Playfield backboard above the lanes? I’ve never had another machine make such a distinctive hollow wood sound when the ball hits the back panel. *clock*

1 week later
#6619 1 year ago

Whilst mine is not overly loud.. it makes the mist ball less magical by hearing the motor and inclined spline moving, has anyone had a way to soften the noise of the movements?

#6627 1 year ago

I’ve discovered something puzzling with my machine. If I have a ball in the castle lock and then I hit the left Center standup it triggers the animation and fallout “master.. don’t fall asleep in the light” (or whatever it is) as if the ball has gone into the left opto Asylum shot. Only happens when the onto for the castle lock has a ball in it.

I can’t figure out why this is happening, can’t see any touching wires or anything. Only occurs if the castle opto 1 is blocked at the same time as the left Center standup is hit.

I have a new replacement homepin opto board in and I haven't noticed this issue before. I think I would have noticed it happening during normal play as it is quite apparent now when you hit the standup with a lock.

Could it be the diode on the standup target?

1 week later
#6669 1 year ago

The back left post on the coffin also retains the grey plastic frame of the coffin. I think there is a tab that sits under the grey part that will be free once you remove the post

2 weeks later
#6762 1 year ago

Has anyone had plunger alignment issues? I sometimes (40%) have the ball rattle through the shooter lane up under the left ramp return and not make it to the drop target for skill shot in the back. It will always make it to the lanes, just not as cleanly as I’d like. I have the plastic on the lift ramp in the shooter ramp fitted and am not sure what’s causing it

4 months later
#7127 10 months ago

Looking amazing

5 months later
#7370 5 months ago

How are peoples main left ramps attached to the playfield? My machine has been missing the metal protectors on the ramp entrance since Ive had it, and has had that ramp attached through the ramp flap into the playfield using these mount holes, the ramp protectors do not line up to be mounted. If i remove the ramp flap screws, the protectors align and shift the ramp. IPDB photos show no ramp flap mount screws.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=12459&zoom=1

#7373 5 months ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

Mine is attached via the metal protectors. I haven't screwed the ramp down, it doesn't seem necessary.

Are the screws into the ramp section backed by a nut at all? Mines secured without at the moment, but could be tighter using just the guides

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