Two things.

1. Your board has a RAMTRON FM1608. This is FRAM (NVRAM).
2. Your board is a TwoBits board. Be careful when using external SEMS screws at the bottom that the solder mask is NOT removed exposing the copper trace underneath. If this happens you will short the +5V rail to GND.

two_bits.jpg

It is important that people reading this post in the future looking for potential solutions to problems do not get misinformed.

If the implication in your image is that you inserted the connectors for J133, J134 and J135 incorrectly then that is NOT the cause for your problem. These three headers are electrically identical (you can use any of them for any connector).

wpc89_J133-J135.jpg

If your problem disappeared then you must have done something else without realizing it because swapping those connectors will not make a difference.

I can't say for sure if this particular board has these problems but I like to play the odds game (I play it for almost everything in life because the universe - specifically physics - is just an odds game). I have seen a LOT of WPC-89 power boards and I have NEVER seen any problems with the lamp rows. This circuit just does not generate heat. Odds are low that this is the cause of the problem. It's often the general illumination (GI = J115/J120/J121) that generates a lot of heat resulting in burned headers and/or connectors and/or cracked solder joints. I'm not saying that this is not what happened here. I have no evidence to refute it. Just odds and experience.

That's a true scientific experiment. Results that can be reproduced. The problem with headers and connectors is that if you try to do this you don't always get a true scientific result. This is because the connection is not 100% identical when you insert the connector onto the header. This is why when people complain about WPC resets attempting to re-seat J101 and/or J114 and/or J210 will result in the resets going away. Same deal with ribbon cables. Often people complain their DMD is "scrambled" and re-seating the ribbon cable fixes it.

If you want to know you should describe what the original problem was so that an analysis can be made.

Great advice from @Thor-NL.

I went to service a BSD the other week. The owner didn't know what Mist Multiball was and had never seen it despite owning the machine for quite some time. Switch 82 did not change state when the optical beam was interrupted. Went straight to the 24-opto board. The electrolytic capacitors had leaked and spewed their guts all over the board. Can be repaired but not cost effective to repair. So I built him one of my reproduction boards (new board) and everything is working for him.

It can be the opto pair or the 24-opto board. Inspect the 24-opto board. Electrolytic capacitor leaks are VERY common on this board. Almost every original 24-opto in a BSD I have seen has one or both electrolytic capacitors that have leaked. If you are unsure post pictures of the board.

That's what the original 24-opto board should look like. Electrolytic capacitor guts spewed on the board and components.

You can assume the Homepin board is good but if you have questions about it you should read the documentation that came with it. Failing that you should contact the manufacturer (Homepin) or the merchant that it was purchased from for support. That board is not the original circuit used by Williams and has a potentiometer for adjustment of something.

If you want to assume the board is good then verify the opto pair. If you have spares of the transmitter and receiver boards you can verify they are good by using them in an ordinary opto pair and running the switch tests. Then you can swap those now proven good transmitter and receivers to the long opto pair (switch 82) and that should work. You can also just take out a known good and swap that into switch 82 for a quick differential diagnosis. Brand new opto pairs are likely to be good (you assume this) but you should really prove they are good. Otherwise you still have two variables (opto pair or board) and you haven't differentiated between the two.

It should be either:

• the opto pair
• the 24-opto board

Of course, it could be something else but those are the two most likely things with the highest odds of return to look at.

That sounds like a board problem. Might be an adjustment on the board (that potentiometer). Mess with that at your own risk as I don't know the electronics on that board. It could also be that the opto pair is failing and the electronics manifest the failure in this manner.

To be sure going forward you must differentiate between the opto pair (both transmitter and receiver must be working) and the board. The switch test doesn't definitively differentiate between them.

Without definitive differentiation between the opto pair and the board you have reached the limit of my ability to help you on this.

If the hold winding is not energized (does not work) then if you hold the cabinet flipper button in the flipper will "chatter". The power winding will energize and the EOS switch will close. The software will either de-energize the power winding after a set amount of time or when the EOS switch closes. Without the hold winding the flipper bat will return to rest (the spring) and this will cause the EOS switch to open. The software sees the cabinet flipper button is still pressed but the EOS switch is open and will then re-energize the power winding. This results in "chatter" or a "chimp flipping" effect.

The software will NOT continually energize the power winding. This will cause the fuse to blow. It will NOT pulse the solenoid like the Deger or Stern system. I have not looked at the actual software (code) so I cannot say for certain that it responds to the EOS switch state. I suspect the software would de-energize the power winding when the EOS switch closes. The heat is coming from the power winding not the hold winding. If you want to be sure measure the resistance of the windings. For FL-15411 the power winding should be in the 4 Ohm range and the hold winding probably in the 100-150 Ohm range.

00_bsd_lamp_matrix.jpg01_bsd_solenoid_flasher.jpg

The manual almost always has the answer.

bsd_lamp_locations.jpg

They're just lamps. There are dedicated lamps for lock counts.

Sure. There are other pages in the manual. Every machine owner should actually read their manual. I know, real men don't read manuals. I would guess that > 80% of the questions asked on this forum (not just this thread) can be answered by reading the manual.

bsd_solenoid_flasher.jpg

I highlighted the lock lamps to address the quoted text above.