Hey guys, the jackwagon that shopped out my BSD before I got it must have had a boat load of parts left on his work bench when he was done and randomly put parts where he thought they might go. It is a mess putting back together, many standoffs and plastics are missing and I think he used every hardware screw he/she could find.

Therefore, I need a really good shop out guide for putting the game back together with measurements on hex posts etc. I found the written out shop guide, some pictures of John Warts shop job, but neither is helping. I did a search for "shop out" on this thread, but was unsuccessful at finding anything detailed enough. I've done full tear downs on over 100 games and have had no issue when I take my own pics and follow those to put it back together. But since this was mangled before I started taking it apart, my pics are no help.

Hope someone can point me in the right direction.... Thanks!

I already bought a set of your BSD plastic sets....many are already installed!

What size are those Hex standoffs that sit on top of that plastic so the next plastic can attach to it? Are there 3 of them and are they all the same size?

Could someone measure for me? They are missing on my game and I need to purchase the correct ones. Based on Lou Perazzoli guide, he seems to suggest they are all 5/8 inch.

Awesome job on repainting those buildings. I especially liked the "furry" snow. I assume that is white flecking material in multiple stages of build up?

Yes, and I confirmed that last night by taking apart another person's machine to validate a number of things. There are definitely two 5/8 hex spacers in that area....the other 5/8 hex spacer is on the opposite side above the skinny plastic that the left metal ramp secures to. I have all the parts now ordered that I need.

Tried searching but couldn't find as anything. I have 2 BSDs right now. One of the BSD Cabinets were silkscreen painted onto the cabinet, while the other was silkscreened onto a vinyl that is adhered to the cabinet. No, i am not speaking of repo decals, i am speaking of the difference in original cabinet artwork. Anyone know why they were done both ways and which one is more rare (if there is a difference)?

Nevermind....found this article which was helpful.

https://www.flippers.be/pinball_cabinets.html

SOLD!

Machine - For Sale

Bram Stoker's Dracula Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “This Bram Stokers Dracula pinball has been in collection for the past 19 years. It has been fully shopped out, rebuilt flippers with new coils, all new rubbers, full LEDs and it pl...”

2020-03-30

Lakeville, MN

Cudaman

4,000

Archived after: 21 days

Viewed: 498 times

Status: Sold (amount unknown)

Contributed to Pinside

In case anyone is looking for a really nice BSD.

I don't see any out there from the usual suspects...Planetary, Marco, Freeway 40, Starship Fantasy.

I might. Let me take a look. What do you think is a fair price?

When I purchased my BSD, it had remote control led strips that lit up Love Never Dies and the backbox up by Dracula. As of right now, the led strips are not working and my 5A fuse at F109 keeps blowing. When I looked to see how these leds were hooked up for power, there are trifurcon pins on the end of a piece of speaker wire and those are pushed into the J116 standard connector at pins 2 & 3. That certainly is not a stable connection. Does anyone have instructions for how this was supposed to be connected? Of course would like it to be reversible so I don't want to hard wire into J116 pins 2&3 if that is how its supposed to be hooked up.

Pictures are below. Does anyone have this mod, know where it came from and can you please let me know the best way to connect? Thanks!

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Yes it's a 12V PS at 3.2a. It just seems odd that someone would sell this led kit and tell someone to manually push trifurcon pins into the existing idc connectors. Would think they would have sent connectors that could be doubled up and be plugged in or unplugged.

Has anyone used this connector from Pinball Life on WPC games to pull 12v to led kits (like I mentioned above) or color dmds, etc? Seems like it would work well. Perhaps someone else has made something similar?

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