Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ArcadeVideo.
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Quoted from cheshirefilms:Hi friends- anyone have an extra of the purple under-village plastic in nice condition after swapping in new plastics- the one which has the round hole for the wire form? See attached. Mine is kind of toast- this is a pic from the internet.
I'm looking for one of these left-side plastics too - mine's cracked in a couple of spots but don't want to get an entire new set of plastics if someone wants to part with theirs. Thanks!
Quoted from cheshirefilms:I got a couple responses to my initial request but no one has followed through. Hope someone out there can be a saint and help.
Thanks for the update...looks like I might just have to get a whole set!
Hey all, I'm wondering if anyone has a tip to improve the lighting behind the "Love Never Dies" text under the DMD? When mine lights up, it reads "ove ver ies" and it's a little annoying! The lights seem to be very firmly in their correct position - maybe a different kind of bulb is needed? Thanks!
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:Hey all, I'm wondering if anyone has a tip to improve the lighting behind the "Love Never Dies" text under the DMD? When mine lights up, it reads "ove ver ies" and it's a little annoying! The lights seem to be very firmly in their correct position - maybe a different kind of bulb is needed? Thanks!
Thanks everyone for your responses! I'll update my post when I have my "ove ver ies" fixed!
I'm looking forward to seeing some "revamped" ramps! In the meantime, has anyone seen other examples of how BSD ramps have been modded differently than the stock decals?
Quoted from davebart5:Not to get off topic of alternative decals. but I did replace the two 555 bulbs that shine under the left ramp, and put two comet matrix 10SMD warm white 555 light strips under there instead and now my entire left ramp is illuminated from the entrance and up around the bend, and that lightning bolt in the decal is now glowing. Hide all the wires underneath for no shadowing and it looks awesome. I may add dimmers to get the perfect feel but it looks so good. I can’t inagine the ramp without it.
Now that I’ve done this, the lightning bolt in the decal looks sharp enough that it matches the bolts in the D-R-A-C-U-L-A letters, the lightning flippers and a few other spots where lightning is present.
I've thought about trying this - do you have a picture you can post, showing how it looks?
Thanks for the post, davebart5! Has anyone tried or seen an LED underlight attempt on the entirety of the ramp, finishing behind the castle model?
Quoted from Colsond3:Diverter question if someone doesn’t mind checking their game. When you run the coil test on the ramp diverter, does it go down and pop right back up?
I just replaced my coil and sleeve, and mine appears to be sticking down at times. Running the test, it’s not popping back up.
I just tested mine - the diverter pops back up immediately after it goes down.
Quoted from JamesUK:Has anyone ever had issues with the ball lunging around when hitting the castle shot, should come down into the lock but at it's speed it can jump over and onto the playfield. Any known solutions?
This happens to me occasionally - especially after cleaning the machine. I've wondered if anyone has modded a guardrail for that, but it happens so rarely on my BSD that it's really not worth the time to bother with.
Quoted from drfrightner:I'm actually using the pinblades designed for Monster Bash from Pingraffix. The reason is that the color is more in line with the game. You don't want dark colored pingrahics you want something bright. I'll tell you this Pingraffix should list this one under Dracula or even Frankenstein because it can go on many different games. I think when looking for the right set don't rely on the company selling them to tell you which ones, look around.
I even used on Batman 66 two different ones, so I bought two different sets so I could have one on the left and a different one on the right. I think the best thing you can add to ANY pinball games is Pin side artwork, powder coating and color screen. If you add nothing else those are the priorities in my book.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/monster-bash-pinblades
I've been planning to get these side blades for my Dracula...
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/bram-stokers-dracula-pinball-sideblades/
But since we're on the subject here, I'm wondering if anyone has other side blade suggestions I haven't thought of?
I've run into an issue with my BSD, was wondering if anyone has had a similar thing happen - and if you found a solution:
When the ball rolls over one of the three lane switches at the top of the play field, the bottom left opto popper fires off. Sometimes just once, sometimes it fires ever second until it stops.
This popper has a white / green wire connected to it, and these lane switches also have white / green wires. I'm wondering if the diodes on these lane switches are malfunctioning?
Any advice is much appreciated!
Quoted from 27dnast:Not sure what you mean “bottom left opto popper”
Are you saying the bottom left hey bumper fires? If you pull the glass and manually press the lane switches does it happen?
It's the popper that shoots the ball out of the left wire ramp (under the village). Yes it happens when I touch the switch(es) with my finger.
Quoted from gweempose:It doesn't appear that I do. Where does it mount?
I think that piece is supposed to mount just over the ramp entrance in the ball launch lane, not the castle ramp. It's to prevent forceful ball launches from jumping out of the ramp
I've read that people have fastened some high density foam to the castle lock ball diverter arm, to slow down the ball as it gets diverted onto the castle lock wireform. My machine does this occasionally, so I'm thinking of doing the same thing.
Just encountered an issue after a few years of owning a BSD. When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds. Has anyone dealt with this in the past? Possibly a failing Opto board?
Quoted from ryanwanger:My first guess is that the switch in the shooter lane (where the ball is plunged from) might be stuck closed. What happens when you look at that during a switch test?
Nope, that switch is ok. Also tested the launch button switch, and it's good too. However all the switches on row #4 of the switch matrix (white / yellow wires) are not registering in a switch test. This is the same row that the launch ball button is on. All the white / yellow wires seem to be connected properly to the switches listed in the row...so I was wondering if the Opto board was maybe the culprit since Opto Castle 2 switch is on this row too.
Quoted from ClassicHornet:Castle opto switch 53, I just had the same issue, test report said #53, my up down post was firing also
Yes My test report says Opto switch 54 (Castle onto #2). Did replacing the Opto switch fix the issue for you?
Does anyone have some BSD plastics to sell? I'm looking for the large piece that fits under the village on the left side of the playfield, as well as the skinny piece that goes under the left ramp, leading to the mystery hole.
Seeking some assistance from anyone who's familiar with diagnosing the MPU on Dracula. Row #4 on my switch matrix is completely out. All the wires on the row 4 switches show continuity, and I've done a test at the board. The pin associated with row 4 doesn't show in the switch test when done at the board. So my question is: which components on the board should I be checking / replacing? Thanks in advance!
Quoted from Engine09:Do you have the WPC schematic? Take a look at the connector header and trace the lines to see which ICs it runs into.
Just going off memory but I think the 373 is the buffer and the 2803 is the larger IC which is the latches. If you need to replace then solder in a socket, if it happens again it's an easy swap. Plus the less times you heat up these old boards the better.
I used this handy CPU map and figure that either the U13 or U18 chips are the problem. Would this be correct?
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