Ok, then next you'll need to pull the 2 light bulbs above the opto and test, read the post below Joh Wart had the same issue he narrowed down to the 2 GI bulbs. After you verify the fix we can figure out how to keep the bulbs and prevent them from interfering.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/-vi-rwWJsPI

One last known issue that can end the game early. If one of the gates is bent up slightly it will block the beam making the game think the ball is still on the magnet and you never knocked it off. This will end the round after one ball drain too. So check the gates with the switch test running and lift each gate up and let it drop you should see the switch verify the beam getting blocked then opened. Do this for both sides.

I had actually discovered that post before and had pulled those two bulbs completely out, yet got the same result. Those are incans, and the first bulb below the trans and the receiver optos are also incan. I'm about to get back at it (I do have red LEDs in the vicinity that could be suspect).

With the new homepin board, I also noted that the receiver opto responds to a remote from a much larger range and distance than with the old board, where it would previously only respond when pointed closer and more direct. Not sure how relevant that may be, but the receiver is clearly way more sensitive now (I would expect that it really shouldn't be failing opto check with the factory spec. flashers, etc. that gave it issues).

I was getting air balls around 20% of the time when making ramp shots.
I noticed that the metal flap on the ramp was flexing and launching the ball into the air.
I slid a small piece of double sided tape, with the paper still on it, under the flap. I now have zero air balls!
Was there something originally installed under the ramp flap to keep it from flexing?
What's the proper way to fix this problem?

Thanks

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New receiver opto ended up being the fix (swapped after checking the solder joints at the old opto and testing continuity). No more lamp interference in test and the ball no longer ends after Mist multi. Hopefully my experience helps someone down the road, but it's clear the Mist issues are hard to pinpoint as the same symptoms can be so many different things.

Alright...glad you got it sorted.

Thanks, and I appreciate the help

I'm missing the black spacers in the plastic above the pop bumper. Any idea where I can pick up these little guys?

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http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3156

Thanks but these look too tall. There's barley any space between the plastic and pop bumper.

Guys, anyone have experience they can share with replacing the coffin ramp up/down part and the corresponding ramp flap? Was this a hard project?

I bought the replacement piece from the Etsy site and I have the blue steel from pinrestore. I was going to use the old ramp flap as a template to cut out a new piece from blue steel. Then I will rivet.

But - I see you can buy the ramp flap set from pinbits. Only issue is that I only need the one flap (not all 3) and they are pretty pricey at $25 bucks. Its a tiny piece of spring steel for cripes sake. Anyone buy these and are they worth it? If I buy all 3 does anyone want to buy the other 2 from me for a reasonable price?

But wondering if it is worth the money or if anyone else tried to cut their own from the blue steel.

The PinBits pieces are stainless. I just replaced all of mine. Worth the cost to me since I was a complete tear down and rebuild shop job.

thanks. Do you recall what size rivets you used for the coffin ramp flap?

I replaced mine also and agree worth doing. Looks nice. I can't recall having to buy all three though but must have back in the day. 3/32 rivets I believe and 5/32 for the pivot hardware.

No, sorry. I've got a press and a box of various rivet sizes..

Hey everyone! I'm actually exiting the club soon, and I want to make sure the new owner gets the game in as good of shape as possible. That being said, I'm still getting the UL flipper credit dot thrown at switch F8 and I'm not sure what steps to take to get rid of that. The game works 100% and the credit dot doesn't affect gameplay but I still would like it gone. any suggestions?

Have you checked the opto on the left flipper board like I previously mentioned? Switch F8 is the upper left flipper button.

If that were the problem what steps would you suggest to fix? New optos?

I could be dirty. Try cleaning it with a Q-tip and Windex and test. It could also be that the interruptor is not moving enough/blocking the opto to the point it isn't registering.

If that doesn't rectify the problem, a new opto on the flipper board OR a new flipper board.

I'll be honest, I'm not even sure where these boards are located.

I know from your posts that you go thru games very quickly. But if you want to start resolving issues like with your BSD, the manual can be your best friend. If you don't have a manual, they are easily available. Everything from description to location of parts, boards, etc. are in the manual. Even if you're new at process and repair, this is a great way to get your feet wet. Good luck!

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/3072/Williams_1993_Bram_Stoker_s_Dracula_English_Manual.pdf

This is great advice. You can learn so much by reading the manual and working through your problems with a little bit of patience. Always good to ask for help too, but you should do some research so you know what people are telling you to do.
That's how i have learnt so much about my pins. Hopefully you can work out your problem.

+1

Thanks guys, I'll dig in. And thanks for the link!

Does anyone have an unused set or know where i could get a set of these decals?! Thanks

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Pm sent

What about these!?

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcReUtR7LoWDKYTuz9xEC_5uedIKUybxZRboaJBKgSdNgMHcnw

My opto 24 board keeps blowing out on me I checked the voltage coming in on the J3 connector and it is reading 14.2v on the 12v line is this to much voltage or is that within spec? It keeps blowing R3 and the caps. I want to buy a new opto24 board but I dont want to blow that out if my voltages are off. I put another 24 board in from a buddies project BSD and it worked for a while now that one is toast too.
Thanks,
Joe

Hey guys. I just replaced the coffin ramp with the Etsy version. Also put on a new ramp flap. Everything looks great now, and the solenoid to open and close works fine; the issue-

When the ramp is in the up position, I get a little contact with the ramp flap as the ball rolls under.

Not sure if something isn't the exact same size as the previous system. But is there an adjustment I can make to this? Anyone know a way to get the solenoid to swing the ramp up a little higher?

Thanks

Bumping this. Hoping a BSD club member can help me. I think I may be missing a part from the ramp flap up/down mechanism/hinge.

Does anyone have some recent shop out pics of this they could send me?

left the club
have a full set of new plastic ramps for sale:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/55924

add a couple washers somewhere?

This is the lever that moves up and down in the solenoid to raise/lower the ramp. I have a lot of play in the link and am thinking the part or the roll pin is worn out. The play seems to keep the ramp from fully raising.

Does anyone else have alot of play in this lever?

Unfortunately it is sold out at marco specialties.

Anyone have an extra one of these laying around?

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You should have a bushing/spacer on the roll pin a tad smaller than the hole in the part you pictured. If you have just the roll pin, it may not be lifting it high enough.

Just got hold of this BSD.

I assume the ramp decals are only meant to be on one side of the ramp ? The home made ones lasted about 5 seconds before my OCD had to rip them off.

Left ramp diverter is stuck open to the castle and the micro switch beyond the divertor on the ramp appears to be fitted the wrong way round making balls unable to pass under it in a clock wise direction.

Seems to smell funny too as you can tell by the intrest by the dog

First impressions mmmmmm. Not sure I have bought a good example

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lol your dog is awesome! Yes the decals are on the outside of the ramps only. Were those homemade decals? How did you know, they look like pretty decent decals.

Ha they look better screwed up in a pile than they did stuck to the ramps.
They are all pixilated were various shapes and sizes,out of alignment and were peeling. Apart from that ........

Anyway the original decals are all still in place on the outside of the ramps only

And thanks the dogs a little cracker

Cool. Well I hope you get the issues sorted out and get your game working 100%. It's a great game when its working perfectly. I can't believe how a pretty much "one trick pony" kind of game, ie multiball stacker, can be so consuming!

Sling shot plastics, anyone?

Hi.

Do you any of you know a source for replacement sling shot plastics for BSD?

From what I gather, no repro's were ever made. What have those of you BSD owners who have needed them worked out as a solution?

Did anyone make his/her own?

Thanks.

Jason

A full plastic set was remade not long ago. Check Planetary to see if they have any left..

G'day everyone,

bought my BSD in 2004 from Pinball Warehouse in Springwood, south of Brisbane, Qld. Not sure of its previous life but they had brought it back to a really nice condition and its only in the last few weeks that i decided to bling it up a bit so I tracked down and joined Pinside.

Just wanted to say thanks to all the contributors to this club as it is an extremely valuable source of information which has helped me out a great deal already. In the last couple of weeks I have replaced most of the playfield lamps with LEDs although there are still a couple i can't seem to find to replace, namely
left ramp lock
right lamp lock
magnet
I also haven't replaced the internal coffin lamps yet as it seems a bit of a job to remove the coffin, does anyone have a guide? I am getting a bit of ghosting and flickering with the LEDs, I was assured by the seller of the lamps that it would all be fine, yeah right. The left lamp on the coffin is always dimly lit, see pic. Is there a solution to this? Still got the GI to do.

I replaced the DMD with a ColorDMD today and that was straightforward and looks really cool but after paying nearly AU$600 to get it I was a bit hesitant to spend nearly another $200 on a replacement speaker panel. I ended up removing all the red part of the panel with a cutting tool (very carefully) and am picking up a piece of cut glass tomorrow to go between the DMD and the foam protector. Can anyone see a reason that this wouldn't work, I was a bit surprised the replacement DMD didn't have a glass panel on the front like the original.

Thanks to aobrien5 for pointing me in the right direction for instruction cards, took a few go's to print them out at the right size but once they were laminated they look great.

I would like to get my hands on one of those mods for the rear of the coffin, it improves the look 100%. I honestly thought that the place I bought BSD from had heat folded a bit of left over plastic and screwed it to the coffin, it is a shocker. If anyone has one spare or knows where I can get one that would be great.

I still have a little way to go to get my machine working 100%, I think fooling around in the guts of it may have caused a few problems, MIST no longer works properly and I keep getting other errors on the tests. I will keep trying to fix these and post my questions when all else fails!

BSD is such a great game and one that I think I will be keeping for a very long time, the kids were playing it tonight and are pretty well hooked I think.

Thanks again to everyone for their input, and I will be sure to contribute where I can.

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Ummm yeah a full plastics set was made not long ago. You didn’t look very hard did you? Lol...Anyway. I did a google search and first hit.

ebay.com link: i

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1744

They are literally everywhere.

I have a switch error, switch #85 "left ramp diverted", but the switch position is not shown on the layout page, where is it?

Maybe the one right behind the coffin on the castle wireform?

Hm, let's see. Left ramp lock sounds like it would be the lightning bolt in front of the ramp. Right ramp lock is probably the green Coffin lock lit insert under the right lift ramp. Magnet is a light on the motor assembly that lights the row of mist inserts as it moves.

For the coffin, there should be a shop out guide pdf posted early in this thread. If you cant find it, pm me and I'll email it to you.

For the ghosting, have you tried a different bulb? Weird it's just that one.

Not really sure what you mean here. You cut a hole in the panel for the display or just scraped the red off? Got pics of what you mean?

Check out the other thread. Should be able to get one from @Morpheus. They're pretty nice. Huge improvement.

For your ground short, check your documentation for everything on row 1 and make sure nothing isn't touching something it's not supposed to be.

Just brought this BSD home. Unfaded original cabinet. I started the tear down in my garage a week ago and then the weather changed. I just moved the project to my basement.

I have a few parts inbound and should hopefully have this back together in a few weekends.

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I'll check and verify, thanks

Just put on the new torches from Mezelmods. Love the look and super easy

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Switch #85 ends up being the one on the wireform at the left rear of the coffin, it's numbered #25 on the switch list which is incorrect as there are (2) 25's shown, the correct 25 is the right hand switch of the three thrulanes at the top of the playfield, everyone needs to renumber the incorrect switch.

Thanks again aobrien5, you were right concerning the location of the bulbs, all fixed now. The ghosting is happening on a few of the bulbs I just highlighted the coffin one, not much I can do about it I suppose.

For the speaker panel l actually cut out the red portion of it, you can see that in the picture with my hand coming through it. The colordmd had no glass like the original ( see comparison) so I got a pice cut to size and installed that onto foam around the cutout then a rubber spacer then the dmd. The end result is hard to pick, without knowing, that it is any different. Probably not suit the purists out there but hey it saved me $200.

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