(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7139 posts in this topic. You are on page 90 of 143.
#4451 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Can anyone tell me where I can get replacements optos both receiver and transmitter or a parts number. Please PM me. Thanks

Towards the bottom of the page here there are several types - you haven't told us which optos you are looking for exactly?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=19&pg=1

#4452 2 years ago

Thanks. I located them. The optos that go across the playfield.

Quoted from Homepin:

Towards the bottom of the page here there are several types - you haven't told us which optos you are looking for exactly?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=19&pg=1

#4453 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Can anyone tell me where I can get replacements optos both receiver and transmitter or a parts number. Please PM me. Thanks

Is this the type you're looking for?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=167

#4454 2 years ago

Im having a weird issue on my BSD where the ball will bounce off the left targets under the village, and instead of continuing a logical trajectory the ball speed seems to dampen suddenly and go straight down. Almost as if a magnet is repulsing it. It happens close enough to the inserts that maybe they are the culprit? Ive watched a bunch of gameplay videos and have not seen the issue in any.

Anyone here ever have this problem?

#4455 2 years ago
Quoted from ruddiger52:

Im having a weird issue on my BSD where the ball will bounce off the left targets under the village, and instead of continuing a logical trajectory the ball speed seems to dampen suddenly and go straight down. Almost as if a magnet is repulsing it. It happens close enough to the inserts that maybe they are the culprit? Ive watched a bunch of gameplay videos and have not seen the issue in any.
Anyone here ever have this problem?

How's the foam behind the targets look?

#4456 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

How's the foam behind the targets look?

Well now that you mention it the left most target gives much less spring to the ball. It's also more recessed than the right targets. See pics. Does this mean new targets?

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#4457 2 years ago

No, you can just replace the foam and adjust the switch if needs be.

#4458 2 years ago

Just got my parts back from Ron at Pinball Plating. He did nice work. Really wanted to start ripping this apart and get it done, but got way sidetracked with something in the last photo. Have to get back to Vlad another day.

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#4459 2 years ago

i like "best damn" better. plus, you can get pounders.

#4460 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i like "best damn" better. plus, you can get pounders.

Yeah, I don't drink all that much, so a pint of 10.7% was plenty to put a smile on my face. Crap man...did you sell your BSD? Don't see it in your collection anymore.

#4461 2 years ago

whoops, didn't read that label. wow, no wonder.

BSD is gone. it was a sad day for sure. probably my favorite game owned so far. need a quicky to lift my spirits. either that or take a fistful of cash to allentown. maybe both...

#4462 2 years ago

got a guy coming to look at JD in about an hour, too. i'll be down to just CV for a few weeks.

#4463 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

No, you can just replace the foam and adjust the switch if needs be.

Great thank you

#4464 2 years ago

Been going through by new BSD. Is this how the Village should be mounted. Its not flush with the side and the back of the plastic looks to be sloping out like its been forced over something.

Thanks!

IMG_0991 (resized).jpg

#4465 2 years ago
Quoted from ruddiger52:

Been going through by new BSD. Is this how the Village should be mounted. Its not flush with the side and the back of the plastic looks to be sloping out like its been forced over something.
Thanks!

Mine looks a bit more even with the cabinet.

BSD1 (resized).jpg
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#4466 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Mine looks a bit more even with the cabinet.

Yeah something is up with mine. Thanks for the pics!

#4467 2 years ago
Quoted from ruddiger52:

Yeah something is up with mine. Thanks for the pics!

I think mine is the same as yours. Probably got jammed on wrong and is now all bent out of shape.

#4468 2 years ago

The long metal plate running along the left side should go inside the molded buildings. At least it does on mine.

#4469 2 years ago

I thought the purpose of the metal piece was to keep the model from hanging up on the cab when lowering. I may have the piece reversed, but I'm thinking it should still be on the outside back of the model.

#4470 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I thought the purpose of the metal piece was to keep the model from hanging up on the cab when lowering. I may have the piece reversed, but I'm thinking it should still be on the outside back of the model.

Yea that's the first time I noticed it. When it clipped the cab as I was lowering playfield

#4471 2 years ago

Here's a pic from HEP archives. I'll probably adjust mine at some point.
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album623/47_G

#4472 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Here's a pic from HEP archives. I'll probably adjust mine at some point.
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album623/47_G

Yeah mine does not look like that. Thx for link

#4473 2 years ago

Yeah, I think I need to adjust mine, too.

#4474 2 years ago

I made this custom PinCup for Dracula pinball. The inside is painted Royal Blue, the outside is painted in dark red with a fade of black on the top and bottom. A "Dracula" logo is added with elaborate scroll work. An additional logo of "Love never Dies" is embellished on the bottom fro that custom look. They are available at www.modfatherpinball.com

bsd2 (resized).jpgbsd (resized).png

#4475 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Yeah, I think I need to adjust mine, too.

Well the back of my village is so bent outwards, when I install it correctly, parts of the village push against the wire form. Hard enough that the ball nicks the village and flys off. I wonder if I can reshape the plastic

#4476 2 years ago
Quoted from ruddiger52:

Well the back of my village is so bent outwards, when I install it correctly, parts of the village push against the wire form. Hard enough that the ball nicks the village and flys off. I wonder if I can reshape the plastic

Pretty sure mine is the same way. May be a job for a heat gun.

#4477 2 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Just got my parts back from Ron at Pinball Plating.

Got them on today....vast improvement.

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#4478 2 years ago

HELP:

I have had some trials and tribulations with my mist ball and I am seeking help. First the right gate would close prematurely if the mist ball magnet was brining the ball from the left gate to the right gate. Thought it was the fliprtonic board and I put in a new one and it was the same problem. Turned out to be the spring on the solenoid that was not resilient enough to hold the gate up. Replaced it and it works fine. Than when running through the magnet test the optos would not detect the ball in the gate, so the optos were replaced and it seemed to work fine for a bit and now the same thing is happening. I put in a new opto board and that does not change anything. Any suggestions? What happens is the ball is not detected so the gate opens and drops the ball and it continues to load a ball and drop it ultimately giving me a magnet error.

#4479 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

HELP:
I have had some trials and tribulations with my mist ball and I am seeking help. First the right gate would close prematurely if the mist ball magnet was brining the ball from the left gate to the right gate. Thought it was the fliprtonic board and I put in a new one and it was the same problem. Turned out to be the spring on the solenoid that was not resilient enough to hold the gate up. Replaced it and it works fine. Than when running through the magnet test the optos would not detect the ball in the gate, so the optos were replaced and it seemed to work fine for a bit and now the same thing is happening. I put in a new opto board and that does not change anything. Any suggestions? What happens is the ball is not detected so the gate opens and drops the ball and it continues to load a ball and drop it ultimately giving me a magnet error.

I had that "continual unlock of the mist ball" problem. It DID end up being my opto board.

Is your new opto board an original NOS or a Homepin unit or a Great Lakes Modular unit?

#4480 2 years ago

I got the one from pinball life but for some reason I cant locate it. It is the 24" Opto Replacement Board - A-15646 It is not original NOS but I do not know if it is either of the other mentioned. It does have a green light on it to signify the opto beam. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Quoted from NPO:

I had that "continual unlock of the mist ball" problem. It DID end up being my opto board.
Is your new opto board an original NOS or a Homepin unit or a Great Lakes Modular unit?

#4481 2 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Got them on today....vast improvement.

how much of a pita was that?

coin door next?

#4482 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I got the one from pinball life but for some reason I cant locate it. It is the 24" Opto Replacement Board - A-15646 It is not original NOS but I do not know if it is either of the other mentioned. It does have a green light on it to signify the opto beam. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Take a picture of it. It sounds like Homepin's unit, which I do know I had a faulty one from them, and they made it right. But before we go there, let's verify that it is actually one of their boards.

#4483 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Take a picture of it. It sounds like Homepin's unit, which I do know I had a faulty one from them, and they made it right. But before we go there, let's verify that it is actually one of their boards.

If it has a green LED to indicate the beam is intact then it will be a Homepin board for sure.

Happy to assist if there is a board problem.

#4484 2 years ago

It is the home pin board. What is my next move?

Quoted from Homepin:

If it has a green LED to indicate the beam is intact then it will be a Homepin board for sure.
Happy to assist if there is a board problem.

#4485 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

It is the home pin board. What is my next move?

Install the board - make sure the path between the TX and RX LEDs is free of obstructions - look to see if the green LED is illuminated - if it is, break the light beam across the playfield with your hand and observe that the green LED goes off and on as you break the beam.

If it does - the board, the LEDs and wiring is all OK. You problem is elsewhere.

If not - we need to look further at the LEDs and the wiring and plugs to them.

#4486 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

how much of a pita was that?
coin door next?

Not much of a pain...sometimes siderails are, sometimes they aren't. Depends on the tape or adhesive. Took me about two hours from start to finish, but I was real anal with removing the old double sided tape off the cab. I've debated on the coin door, not sure yet. Maybe just the skin and leave the molding black.

#4487 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

It is the home pin board. What is my next move?

Quoted from Homepin:

If it does - the board, the LEDs and wiring is all OK. You problem is elsewhere.
If not - we need to look further at the LEDs and the wiring and plugs to them.

John, any progress? Let me know if you need anything. After we were chatting last night I looked and still have a ton of articles on mist ball issues from when I had a similar problem with my first BSD I sold two years ago. It was a bitch to fix, but I eventually got it figured out.

#4488 2 years ago

The green light does not go on and the magnet just goes back and forth.

Quoted from Homepin:

Install the board - make sure the path between the TX and RX LEDs is free of obstructions - look to see if the green LED is illuminated - if it is, break the light beam across the playfield with your hand and observe that the green LED goes off and on as you break the beam.
If it does - the board, the LEDs and wiring is all OK. You problem is elsewhere.
If not - we need to look further at the LEDs and the wiring and plugs to them.

#4489 2 years ago

Working on it and will let you know. Thanks.

Quoted from Colsond3:

John, any progress? Let me know if you need anything. After we were chatting last night I looked and still have a ton of articles on mist ball issues from when I had a similar problem with my first BSD I sold two years ago. It was a bitch to fix, but I eventually got it figured out.

#4490 2 years ago

I would test all the switches and optos. There are mechanical switches under the playfield on either side of the playfield that make when the magnet carriage is at far left and far right. Make sure those are adjusted so they change state in switch edge test when the carriage is at the furthest points left and right.

There is what they call a left pocket opto that detects when a ball is in the left side mist area. Make sure this works in switch edge test. Then there's the long range opto that detects the ball as it travels across the playfield. In switch edge test, put your hand along the path where the mist ball would travel and see if the mist optos open and close as you move your hand up/down.

There are also a secondary black plastic opto shroud and brass L-bracket behind the left ball pocket area to help reduce interference from external lights and flashers that should also be installed on the playfield. These are located in front of the black receiver opto on the left side.

There's not much more to the system, but it sure can be a PITA to get it working.

#4491 2 years ago

Thank you. I did all that with the exception of testing the magnet carriage switches. The long range optos works intermittently in the test mode but when the ball is in the right gate it does not detect the ball there. I am thinking that it is the board more and more and that I got a bad one as the replacement. I hope thats it. Thanks

Quoted from schudel5:

I would test all the switches and optos. There are mechanical switches under the playfield on either side of the playfield that make when the magnet carriage is at far left and far right. Make sure those are adjusted so they change state in switch edge test when the carriage is at the furthest points left and right.
There is what they call a left pocket opto that detects when a ball is in the left side mist area. Make sure this works in switch edge test. Then there's the long range opto that detects the ball as it travels across the playfield. In switch edge test, put your hand along the path where the mist ball would travel and see if the mist optos open and close as you move your hand up/down.
There are also a secondary black plastic opto shroud and brass L-bracket behind the left ball pocket area to help reduce interference from external lights and flashers that should also be installed on the playfield. These are located in front of the black receiver opto on the left side.
There's not much more to the system, but it sure can be a PITA to get it working.

#4492 2 years ago

I am also having mist issues. I get an unload magnet error. I am unable to trip the switch by passing my finger over the playfield, however if i put my finger all the way into the left pocket I can trip the switch. Hopefully this is indicative of misalignment or light interference?

#4494 2 years ago

Awesome thx! Recognize the voice from some soldering tuts I watched so thx for those as well. In a way Im happy my mist multi failed. Like a weird badge of honor. Were having fun here!

#4495 2 years ago

Thats a badge I would rather not have, but we are all in good company.

Quoted from ruddiger52:

Awesome thx! Recognize the voice from some soldering tuts I watched so thx for those as well. In a way Im happy my mist multi failed. Like a weird badge of honor. Were having fun here!

#4496 2 years ago

Hahaha..i have the "unload magnet error" right now too! So, I thank you guys as well. It's awesome seeing good people helping other's in need! Even if it's first world problems like a broken Dracula! Also, I just installed the color dmd last nite!! Wooot,what a beauty!

#4497 2 years ago
Quoted from Dee-Bow:

Hahaha..i have the "unload magnet error" right now too! So, I thank you guys as well. It's awesome seeing good people helping other's in need! Even if it's first world problems like a broken Dracula! Also, I just installed the color dmd last nite!! Wooot,what a beauty!

Did you get the led or lcd?

#4498 2 years ago

It's the LED. I bought it un-installed from the guy I got BSD from. I actually prefer the LCD in my metallica but hopefully it grows on me! I also installed the sweet ass coffin mod that replaces Ron Jeremy!

#4499 2 years ago

For those using the Homepin board here are a few faultfinding tips.

First, assume that the new board is working. It's easy to blame an unknown but we go to extraordinary lengths to ensure the board is 100% when it leaves the factory. The chances of it being faulty are very slim.

Plug the new board in and make sure the green LED lights showing that the beam across the playfield is working.

IGNORE all other things. Forget about any DMD displays, warnings etc. Just concentrate ONLY on the new board and getting the green LED to light. Do not bother with any of the machines self tests at this early stage.

If the green LED doesn't light, chances are high that either the optos (TX and/or RX) are shot or poorly aligned. Attend to them as required and check the soundness of all wiring and connectors between them and the new board.

Again, IGNORE everything else until you get this green LED illuminated. You are wasting your time looking anywhere else. The mist ball will never work until you get this long opto beam working correctly.

A very simple bench test for those who doubt the board is working:

Wire a TX LED to a plug for J2 and an RX Phototransistor to J1, then plug them into the new Homepin board directly. Apply 12V and the green LED will light. Using a steel ruler or similar you can break the light connection between the two LEDs to confirm. The RX and TX are marked clearly on the new board. You can even solder the TX and RX directly to the PCB on the solder side for a quick test.

Also be aware that there are many replacement parts out there (RX/TX) that have the leads reversed in the body. These parts work perfectly BUT must be connected the wrong way around. See my other thread on this issue.

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#4500 2 years ago

While we're in this subject... Are the brass stand offs supposed to be loose on the resistors?

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