(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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There are 7139 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 143.
#4051 3 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

So I'll vouch and say I have actually SEEN this be the case. Note this post from 2 years ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only?tu=npo#post-1872865
My castle lock optos were reading out of order. If I recall correctly, they were triggering 2-1-3 instead of 1-2-3. I knew there was no way the wires just magically "swapped places" on the optos. I ordered the new board as I had heard great things about them, and sure enough, my optos triggered in the correct sequence at that point.
Seeing is believing, and that was all I needed to be sold.
Unfortunately, now the new board is faulty; however....
Think if I hadn't just installed this board and my mist ball circuit started acting up. I'd be installing a faulty unit into my game, and then I'd really be chasing my tail. No thanks.
So, at the end of the day, yes, I do buy boards to keep my games sound. I'd rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it.
YMMV.

Really wasn't directed towards u really... just in general that lots people buy new boards when the old can be gone over and made just as reliable or better than new ones. I have had many rd boards not work well with wpc pins so i sold them and bought oem ones. Ive also fixed quite a few bsd 24opto boards for pe8 and they have been fine for years...including mine. Nothing wrong with buying nee ones but i perfer originals as i can fix them in most cases.

#4052 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

remove the opto blank in front the of the receiver on the left side. fixed my issues.

Already did that. Still nothing.

#4053 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Really wasn't directed towards u really... just in general that lots people buy new boards when the old can be gone over and made just as reliable or better than new ones. I have had many rd boards not work well with wpc pins so i sold them and bought oem ones. Ive also fixed quite a few bsd 24opto boards for pe8 and they have been fine for years...including mine. Nothing wrong with buying nee ones but i perfer originals as i can fix them in most cases.

I wish I had the original. When I bought the game it already had a Homepin in it. After hearing such good things about the Homepin, I'd figure I'd try another to see if it would fix my issues.

#4054 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Really wasn't directed towards u really... just in general that lots people buy new boards when the old can be gone over and made just as reliable or better than new ones. I have had many rd boards not work well with wpc pins so i sold them and bought oem ones. Ive also fixed quite a few bsd 24opto boards for pe8 and they have been fine for years...including mine. Nothing wrong with buying nee ones but i perfer originals as i can fix them in most cases.

Understood. Sorry if my post sounded like a rebuttal. In retrospect, it read that way - not my original intention. Nothing taken personally.

Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I wish I had the original. When I bought the game it already had a Homepin in it. After hearing such good things about the Homepin, I'd figure I'd try another to see if it would fix my issues.

Guess who has two extra original ones...?

#4055 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I wish I had the original. When I bought the game it already had a Homepin in it. After hearing such good things about the Homepin, I'd figure I'd try another to see if it would fix my issues.

U see my post about the fliptronics board? Does yours have a c2 cap?

#4056 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

U see my post about the fliptronics board? Does yours have a c2 cap?

Ah crap. I forgot to look at it.

#4057 3 years ago

Make sure the post is centered in the wire form that it sticks up through.

Quoted from allsportdvd:

I'm having a small problem with my castle lock. If I have a ball locked in there and get "Bats" then 2 balls escape before the post comes back up.
Does anyone have a solution here? Hoping it's an easy fix
Thanks in advance

Have looked at the mechanism and the post seems to move rather freely instead of just being centered in the hole. the coil works fine but possibly a bit slow hence the 2 balls escaping?

IMG_1373 (resized).JPG

#4058 3 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

What is it doing? I put a new Homepin board in yesterday, and my mist ball STOPPED working right. The game, on startup, would just endlessly dump the mist ball. Everytime it went into the shooter lane, the game would just fire it INTO the playfield and not the mist ball holding area.
Changed my board back to factory, and all is good. Did this 2 times just to make sure, and yep, bad Homepin board.
First time ever for me.

Could you please check and make sure the power (12V) LED lights on the replacement board. After that check that the green "beam" LED lights when the board is plugged in. The beam LED indicates when the TX and RX (long throw - 24") optos are "seeing" each other.

If the board doesn't do the above please tell me where you bought it (in PM) and I will make it good for you.

#4059 3 years ago
Quoted from Homepin:

Could you please check and make sure the power (12V) LED lights on the replacement board. After that check that the green "beam" LED lights when the board is plugged in. The beam LED indicates when the TX and RX (long throw - 24") optos are "seeing" each other.
If the board doesn't do the above please tell me where you bought it (in PM) and I will make it good for you.

Tracking. I will do this in the next day or so and get back to you. Meant to PM you. Life has been happening here lately...!

#4060 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Already did that. Still nothing.

damn.

i will say, when you get your BSD working 100%, you'll quickly forget about all the problems you had.

#4061 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

U see my post about the fliptronics board? Does yours have a c2 cap?

IMG_5066 (resized).JPG

IMG_5068 (resized).JPG

IMG_5067 (resized).JPG

#4062 3 years ago

why are we looking at flipper board? i'd like to tag along.

#4063 3 years ago

Because Im a rookie (what board are we talking about)

#4064 3 years ago

no, he asked you to look at it. i just don't know why. thought we had an opto issue.

#4065 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

U see my post about the fliptronics board? Does yours have a c2 cap?

Did you mean C7 on the 24" opto board?

#4066 3 years ago

Who else has the shameless credit dot for the left ball pocket opto? Mine only seems to go away when guests play it, and it doesn't take but a few plays for it to come back.

#4067 3 years ago

Looks like u have the cap so thats not your issue eaither ...unless its bad which is possible..

#4068 3 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Did you mean C7 on the 24" opto board?

Some fliptronics boards are missing the c2 cap (not sure why) and it has been found that bsd mist works better if it has that cap....

#4069 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Who else has the shameless credit dot for the left ball pocket opto? Mine only seems to go away when guests play it, and it doesn't take but a few plays for it to come back.

Yep bc agood player will get mist almost all the time.... which then the game thinks there is a issue bc that switch/opto hasn't been hit in a certain amount of games ....

#4070 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Who else has the shameless credit dot for the left ball pocket opto? Mine only seems to go away when guests play it, and it doesn't take but a few plays for it to come back.

Yep. Almost every 5 games or so. Drives me nuts.

#4071 3 years ago

It shouldn't come up so often should it?

#4072 3 years ago

I had an issue with a new 10 opto board from 'Pindorabox'. A trace from an LM339 to the Blue resistor bank was not even present so it had to be modified to work. You can see the jumper wire on the pic below needed to complete the connection. On a brand new board. Pffft.

image (resized).jpeg

#4073 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

It shouldn't come up so often should it?

You would think not, but I do not know of any adjustments.

#4074 3 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

You would think not, but I do not know of any adjustments.

I heard somewhere a credit dot comes after some 50 balls without a switch registering. On this one, it's only a few games.

#4075 3 years ago

Ok so just for a recap, check opto 1 never passes without failing with either a lamp interference or flasher interference. I have removed lamps in the game and still get an interference even with no lighting there. In switch test mode sometimes the switch 82 ball on magnet bounces on and off (hasn't done this for a few now). The homepin long range green light is on and fine but still throws an error for check opto 1. Everything else wis working smooth besides that.

#4076 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Ok so just for a recap, check opto 1 never passes without failing with either a lamp interference or flasher interference. I have removed lamps in the game and still get an interference even with no lighting there. In switch test mode sometimes the switch 82 ball on magnet bounces on and off (hasn't done this for a few now). The homepin long range green light is on and fine but still throws an error for check opto 1. Everything else wis working smooth besides that.

Did you ever have the original board in your game?

If not - If you pay the shipping - I'll send you one of my originals, which I'll install in my game and verify works 100% before sending your way. If it works, we can negotiate a price.

#4077 3 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Did you ever have the original board in your game?
If not - If you pay the shipping - I'll send you one of my originals, which I'll install in my game and verify works 100% before sending your way. If it works, we can negotiate a price.

I never had the original. It came with a homepin when I bought it. I then purchased another homepin because of the positive reviews hoping that would fix the issue. If i can rule out everything but the board, I would like to do that first.

I guess I forgot to addd that the game also came with a rottendog mpu that ale in it as well. I might just put the game back together and deal with it at a later time.

#4078 3 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I never had the original. It came with a homepin when I bought it. I then purchased another homepin because of the positive reviews hoping that would fix the issue. If i can rule out everything but the board, I would like to do that first.
I guess I forgot to addd that the game also came with a rottendog mpu that ale in it as well. I might just put the game back together and deal with it at a later time.

Tracking. My offer still stands. I will make sure the board works in my game so if you get one of mine, you KNOW it works and then you can systematically rule things note.

#4079 3 years ago

is there a local board guy you could have make a house call?

#4080 3 years ago

Hello friends. I have been on the hunt for a BSD. May have found one and looking for some pricing advice. What is a fair price for one with

- Fully working, no credit dot.
- solid pf, no planking major wear, or raised inserts. Sounds like it has wear common from ball launch in loop
- typical cabinet fade, a couple dings to back box

I may be making offer without seeing in person, so what are some typical pitfalls or troublesome issues i should ask about with this title?

Thanks,

#4081 3 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Hello friends. I have been on the hunt for a BSD. May have found one and looking for some pricing advice. What is a fair price for one with
- Fully working, no credit dot.
- solid pf, no planking major wear, or raised inserts. Sounds like it has wear common from ball launch in loop
- typical cabinet fade, a couple dings to back box
I may be making offer without seeing in person, so what are some typical pitfalls or troublesome issues i should ask about with this title?
Thanks,

2500-2700...

#4082 3 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Hello friends. I have been on the hunt for a BSD. May have found one and looking for some pricing advice. What is a fair price for one with
- Fully working, no credit dot.
- solid pf, no planking major wear, or raised inserts. Sounds like it has wear common from ball launch in loop
- typical cabinet fade, a couple dings to back box
I may be making offer without seeing in person, so what are some typical pitfalls or troublesome issues i should ask about with this title?
Thanks,

I wouldn't make an offer without seeing some pictures first. Just going by what you said, I would offer 2,500 or so. I wouldn't rush it tho....not with a BSD

#4083 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I wouldn't make an offer without seeing some pictures first. Just going by what you said, I would offer 2,500 or so. I wouldn't rush it tho....not with a BSD

Agreed... ive never bought sight unseen and wont...

#4084 3 years ago

I just got 23 loops. So stoked.

#4085 3 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Hello friends. I have been on the hunt for a BSD. May have found one and looking for some pricing advice. What is a fair price for one with
- Fully working, no credit dot.
- solid pf, no planking major wear, or raised inserts. Sounds like it has wear common from ball launch in loop
- typical cabinet fade, a couple dings to back box
I may be making offer without seeing in person, so what are some typical pitfalls or troublesome issues i should ask about with this title?
Thanks,

Honestly, a bit tough to say without visual confirmation. "Mint" to the seller could be "average" to the buyer.

As far as problems, well, I'd read the last 2-3 pages alone about mist ball issues to start. It is the big "oo, ahh" toy, but it also is a decent circuit that can have some complications. Other than that, all VUKs are opto driven. Basically, make sure your opto boards are stout and all your wiring to your optos are good since most everything is controlled by optos in this game.

Finally, keep the location of this BSD hush hush until you decide to purchase or not. I think the "hotness" from the ColorDMD release has cooled off - about 2 months ago BSDs were leaving Pinside in 48 hours or less. Great game, and such a rush when you get 30 millions.

#4086 3 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

I think the "hotness" from the ColorDMD release has cooled off - about 2 months ago BSDs were leaving Pinside in 48 hours or less.

Talk about hotness of the BSD and missed opportunity, a few years ago I was buying an AFM from a local pin guy I deal with and he had asked me if I had an extra 1k in my pocket. I said no why in which he replied if you did I'd like you to take those 3 BSD's as well. At $333.33 each what a freaking asshole I was lol.

#4087 3 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Talk about hotness of the BSD and missed opportunity, a few years ago I was buying an AFM from a local pin guy I deal with and he had asked me if I had an extra 1k in my pocket. I said no why in which he replied if you did I'd like you to take those 3 BSD's as well. At $333.33 each what a freaking asshole I was lol.

You should have borrowed the 1K

#4088 3 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Talk about hotness of the BSD and missed opportunity, a few years ago I was buying an AFM from a local pin guy I deal with and he had asked me if I had an extra 1k in my pocket. I said no why in which he replied if you did I'd like you to take those 3 BSD's as well. At $333.33 each what a freaking asshole I was lol.

....

#4089 3 years ago

Guys,

Ok so I sent my driver board for a complete upgrade. My connectors at J120 and J121 were extremely burnt. So burnt That I had to cut the wires to send the board to Chris. Both connectors had been hacked and the wires were all over the place.

Can somebody with non-hacked connectors please take a picture of J120 and J121 for me? I really need this to re-pin new connectors. I already compared them to my IJ connectors and those are wired a bit differently. Some people say the manual is wrong and not to trust it.

So I would rather just go by pictures from one of you guys' BSD. Hope is not too much to ask....Thanks!

IMG_6820 (resized).JPG

#4090 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Guys,
Ok so I sent my driver board for a complete upgrade. My connectors at J120 and J121 were extremely burnt. So burnt That I had to cut the wires to send the board to Chris. Both connectors had been hacked and the wires were all over the place.
Can somebody with non-hacked connectors please take a picture of J120 and J121 for me? I really need this to re-pin new connectors. I already compared them to my IJ connectors and those are wired a bit differently. Some people say the manual is wrong and not to trust it.
So I would rather just go by pictures from one of you guys' BSD. Hope is not too much to ask....Thanks!

Unless someone beats me to it, I can when I get home tonight.

#4091 3 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Unless someone beats me to it, I can when I get home tonight.

Thanks NPO! That's very nice of you

#4092 3 years ago

Finally a member !

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

#4093 3 years ago

Just letting everyone know that I had the issue where the right gate doesn't stay open and that adding the 100uf 100v cap to C2 on the fliptronics board DID in fact fix the issue. The right gate now stays open long enough for the return ball.

Note I changed the 100uf 10v C1 cap too.

#4094 3 years ago

Here are my J120 and J121 Connectors:

J120 First:

20170105_211744 (resized).jpg

Someone has done work to my game in the past as you can see here. This is what happened when I pulled J120 - it is two connectors (I highly suspect previous owner work).

20170105_211810 (resized).jpg

And here is J121:

20170105_211820 (resized).jpg

Let me know if you need anything else, Kornfreak!

#4095 3 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Just letting everyone know that I had the issue where the right gate doesn't stay open and that adding the 100uf 100v cap to C2 on the fliptronics board DID in fact fix the issue. The right gate now stays open long enough for the return ball.
Note I changed the 100uf 10v C1 cap too.

That's what i was trying to say many posts ago.... thax

#4096 3 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Descriptions coming in a moment.

NPO! Thanks man! I really appreciate this! Thanks for the coming descriptions too!

#4097 3 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Just letting everyone know that I had the issue where the right gate doesn't stay open and that adding the 100uf 100v cap to C2 on the fliptronics board DID in fact fix the issue. The right gate now stays open long enough for the return ball.
Note I changed the 100uf 10v C1 cap too.

Good to hear. That was my exact problem as well and it has been rock solid since. I just got back from Vegas and have the new coffin and proto plastics in. Hope to get those installed this weekend.

#4098 3 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Who else has the shameless credit dot for the left ball pocket opto? Mine only seems to go away when guests play it, and it doesn't take but a few plays for it to come back.

Quoted from NPO:

Yep. Almost every 5 games or so. Drives me nuts.

I don't think you guys should not be having that problem so often. That does not sound like a dead switch style credit dot. Have you checked to make sure the opto isn't flaky? I've definitely seen the Opto Mag Left Pocket credit dot, but it's not recurring like that for me.

#4099 3 years ago

Hey NPO, looks like that connector was cut at some point and they added the small piece. You might want to replace it too

Thanks for your help!

#4100 3 years ago

I was looking around the game last night and I pulled the transmitor opto and I noticed there was a little scratch on the lens. I wonder if that could be the issue with alignment and not passing the opto one check?

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