(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7074 posts in this topic. You are on page 80 of 142.
#3951 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Anybody on the Mist light please?

What light are you referring to? Do you mean the opto transmitter/receiver that is housed on the right side with the mist ball?

#3952 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Btw, will raising the gate like that keep the ball inside when Mist is not running?

Don't bend it a lot, just enough for it to sneak under. Should be fine. Your going to have to take the gate right off the assembly to bend it effectively.

#3953 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnsbit:

Dumb question: Does it do anything in test mode like if you turn on all Lights? I can check the voltage on mine, I have a standard light not an LED in mine.

No dumb questions here: it does not do anything in test mode unfortunately. Yes please do. Thanks!

#3954 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

What light are you referring to? Do you mean the opto transmitter/receiver that is housed on the right side with the mist ball?

The mist light right next to the magnet under the PF. It travels with the magnet during mist MB

#3955 2 years ago
Quoted from Gnatty:

Don't bend it a lot, just enough for it to sneak under. Should be fine. Your going to have to take the gate right off the assembly to bend it effectively.

Good thing you tell me. I've been trying to bend it not its not easy. Did you have to bend yours too?

#3956 2 years ago

Just to be EXTRA sure....i bend this arm UP right? About to remove the whole thing...

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#3957 2 years ago

So it's removed...honestly I don't see how I can bend it. I little confused

#3958 2 years ago

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#3959 2 years ago

Like bend this up? You mean like grab from the right side and bend? I just don't see how...

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#3960 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Like bend this up? You mean like grab from the right side and bend? I just don't see how...

If I am understanding his suggestion correctly, he is telling you to bend at the 90 degree point in the arm before the circular loop that connects to the armature. He is telling you to grab the 90 degree bend and twist it up towards the ceiling. What you are doing is bringing the gate up just a super tiny amount - enough to raise the gate and keep the ball locked in, but once the armature pulls the loop, it will raise the gate JUST enough for the ball to get in and out.

IF....I am understanding him correctly.

#3961 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

If I am understanding his suggestion correctly, he is telling you to bend at the 90 degree point in the arm before the circular loop that connects to the armature. He is telling you to grab the 90 degree bend and twist it up towards the ceiling. What you are doing is bringing the gate up just a super tiny amount - enough to raise the gate and keep the ball locked in, but once the armature pulls the loop, it will raise the gate JUST enough for the ball to get in and out.
IF....I am understanding him correctly.

Thanks! So you are saying to bend this loop correct?

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#3962 2 years ago

You are bending the wire part NOT the flat metal mounting.

The reason is to allow the ball to JUST get through when the gate is actuated by the solenoid.

There isn't a lot of movement when the gate is actuated so it has to be bent "just right".

#3963 2 years ago

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#3964 2 years ago

Oh man!!!! Thanks sooooo much for that!!! Let me try it! Hopefully it works the first time. Now, will all this bending prevent the ball from staying put? Thanks!

#3965 2 years ago

Success! The ball clears the gate now so that is good! Did I over do it tho? The ball sticks out a little.

I still get 01 Magnet faults. How can I check what this fault is? Everything on my mist works great now that I fixed the gate.

Thanks!

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#3966 2 years ago

Bump for magnet light and magnet fault....Anybody?

Mist works great so I don't know why I have a fault?

Thanks!

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#3967 2 years ago

I'm having a small problem with my castle lock. If I have a ball locked in there and get "Bats" then 2 balls escape before the post comes back up.
Does anyone have a solution here? Hoping it's an easy fix
Thanks in advance

#3968 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I'm having a small problem with my castle lock. If I have a ball locked in there and get "Bats" then 2 balls escape before the post comes back up.
Does anyone have a solution here? Hoping it's an easy fix
Thanks in advance

Take apart the mechanism and clean everything....

#3969 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Bump for magnet light and magnet fault....Anybody?
Mist works great so I don't know why I have a fault?
Thanks!

Pretty sure that's a running total.

Quoted from allsportdvd:

I'm having a small problem with my castle lock. If I have a ball locked in there and get "Bats" then 2 balls escape before the post comes back up.
Does anyone have a solution here? Hoping it's an easy fix
Thanks in advance

Make sure the post is centered in the wire form that it sticks up through.

#3970 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Pretty sure that's a running total.

Make sure the post is centered in the wire form that it sticks up through.

Sorry but what's a running total? I've seen videos on youtube of the mist test and they show 0 faults....Thanks!

#3971 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Sorry but what's a running total? I've seen videos on youtube of the mist test and they show 0 faults....Thanks!

How many times mist has had an error since audits were reset.
If you clear your audits, you'll be back to 0. Mine says 51 or so errors, but works fine.
The important thing is that the number doesn't increase as you continually run the test.

#3972 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

How many times mist has had an error since audits were reset.
If you clear your audits, you'll be back to 0. Mine says 51 or so errors, but works fine.
The important thing is that the number doesn't increase as you continually run the test.

Nice! I will do just that! Thanks so much!

Btw, any idea on the mist light please?

Also, I need this spacer (FF) because the top has a broken screw inside. I've been looking for this size but all of them are 8-32 or 6-32. What is the correct size for this spacer please? Thanks so much!

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#3973 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Pretty sure that's a running total.

Make sure the post is centered in the wire form that it sticks up through.

Thanks guys - will try both and see how it goes

#3974 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nice! I will do just that! Thanks so much!
Btw, any idea on the mist light please?
Also, I need this spacer (FF) because the top has a broken screw inside. I've been looking for this size but all of them are 8-32 or 6-32. What is the correct size for this spacer please? Thanks so much!

It should be 3 1/4" long and 6x32 female on both ends.

#3975 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

It should be 3 1/4" long and 6x32 female on both ends.

Thanks Bryan! Nice of you to chime in

What do you think about the Mist light? It just doesn't turn on. Thanks!

#3976 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks Bryan! Nice of you to chime in
What do you think about the Mist light? It just doesn't turn on. Thanks!

Didu try changeing the bulb? Are the wires connected well?

#3977 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Didu try changeing the bulb? Are the wires connected well?

Yes, I put an LED bulb and a regular bulb and nothing. I tested the diode by unsoldering one side and the diode is good. I reseated the corresponding connectors also. No broken wires, everything looks good. I reseated the magnet connectors as well. I tested for AC volts and it gives me very low readings, much lower than the other lamps I tested. I'll test again in a little bit to give you the exact readings.

If its not too much to ask, can you or someone take a picture of the lamp? Just to make sure I have the same thing over here. Thanks!

#3978 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

the Mist light? It just doesn't turn on.

Broken wire inside the moving harness you can't see.

LTG : )

#3979 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

No broken wires, everything looks good.

Did you check each wire for continuity through the coiled magnet cable? (diode/continuity setting on a meter). I just finally got around to fixing my light that hadn't worked since I got it. No visibly broken wires, but a test showed there was a break (test further down the line if it checks out good). I ended up just soldering in a new wire (can't seem to find a new cable in stock anywhere).

#3980 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Broken wire inside the moving harness you can't see.
LTG : )

Thanks LTG! I'll look closer

#3981 2 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

Did you check each wire for continuity through the coiled magnet cable? (diode/continuity setting on a meter). I just finally got around to fixing my light that hadn't worked since I got it. No visibly broken wires, but a test showed there was a break (test further down the line if it checks out good). I ended up just soldering in a new wire (can't seem to find a new cable in stock anywhere).

Great tip! So you mean both magnet harnesses correct?

#3982 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Great tip! So you mean both magnet harnesses correct?

Ultimately the entire length of wire that connects to the mist light socket (if nearby wires check out good), but the coiled magnet cable (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16311) that moves every time the magnet moves tends to eventually break the wires internally. Heck, by fixing my light, I managed to break/exacerbate one of the magnet wires and had to fix that too.

Just pull the connector out (at the coiled cable) that goes to the socket and test from the pin to the corresponding socket wire. On the diode setting, if you touch each end of a wire, it will read OL if there is a break. Any reading that isn't OL (even 0.00) is a good reading for continuity. Wiggling the coiled cable (while testing) here may help reveal a break that touches some of the time, but not when the magnet is moving.

#3983 2 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

Ultimately the entire length of wire that connects to the mist light socket (if nearby wires check out good), but the coiled magnet cable (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16311) that moves every time the magnet moves tends to eventually break the wires internally. Heck, by fixing my light, I managed to break/exacerbate one of the magnet wires and had to fix that too.
Just pull the connector out (at the coiled cable) that goes to the socket and test from the pin to the corresponding socket wire. On the diode setting, if you touch each end of a wire, it will read OL if there is a break. Any reading that isn't OL (even 0.00) is a good reading for continuity. Wiggling the coiled cable (while testing) here may help reveal a break that touches some of the time, but not when the magnet is moving.

Thanks! I'll do this test today after work. Now let me ask you this: Wouldn't any break in the wires internally cause the magnet to fail? My magnet works 100%. Thanks again!

#3984 2 years ago

He's talking about the lamp wire that goes through the harness (bundle) that contains the magnet wires.

#3985 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks! I'll do this test today after work. Now let me ask you this: Wouldn't any break in the wires internally cause the magnet to fail? My magnet works 100%. Thanks again!

No, the wires going to the light socket are separate from the magnet . You will see two separate connectors at the tail of the coiled cable. Of course the wire colors will indicate which one is for the light.

#3986 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

He's talking about the lamp wire that goes through the harness (bundle) that contains the magnet wires.

Oh sorry! Yes, I'll check for continuity later today and report back. Thanks guys!

#3987 2 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

No, the wires going to the light socket are separate from the magnet . You will see two separate connectors at the tail of the coiled cable. Of course the wire colors will indicate which one is for the light.

Yes sir, you are correct. I remember now.....thank you very much. I'll post my results later tonight.

#3988 2 years ago

So I checked for continuity and sure enough, there is no continuity in the white wire. The red wire gives good continuity. There must be a break between the harness and the socket. I assume this means I must replace this coiled magnet cable in order to make the light work?

Thanks so much for your help!!!

#3989 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So I checked for continuity and sure enough, there is no continuity in the white wire. The red wire gives good continuity. There must be a break between the harness and the socket. I assume this means I must replace this coiled magnet cable in order to make the light work?
Thanks so much for your help!!!

Like I told you, BSD is a unique and finicky beast.

But you are jumping right in and getting things fixed and knocked out. I admire your drive - keep it up!

#3990 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So I checked for continuity and sure enough, there is no continuity in the white wire. The red wire gives good continuity. There must be a break between the harness and the socket. I assume this means I must replace this coiled magnet cable in order to make the light work?
Thanks so much for your help!!!

Assuming there is a connector between the socket and the board - You're testing continuity at each connection point along the way and you lose it at the last hop as it goes into the coiled harness? Are you sure it's not just the connector pin or something? You wouldn't have to replace the whole harness, just run another wire alongside it and tie them together.

#3991 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So I checked for continuity and sure enough, there is no continuity in the white wire. The red wire gives good continuity. There must be a break between the harness and the socket. I assume this means I must replace this coiled magnet cable in order to make the light work?
Thanks so much for your help!!!

I soldered in a new piece of wire for the time being as the cable assembly seems to be hard to find. If enough of the wire is good at the connector, you can strip a bit of that and solder/heat shrink (or method you prefer) just the one bad wire. I loosely wrapped the new wire around the coiled cable so that it can move freely with the cable and tight enough that it wouldn't catch on anything.

Preferably I'd also like to find a new assembly if they become available (perhaps I don't know where to look?), but for now it's working with the quick fix.

#3992 2 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

Preferably I'd also like to find a new assembly if they become available (perhaps I don't know where to look?), but for now it's working with the quick fix.

Remember when new ramps were "right around the corner" ?

Yeah, me too.

#3993 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Like I told you, BSD is a unique and finicky beast.
But you are jumping right in and getting things fixed and knocked out. I admire your drive - keep it up!

No doubt! Thanks!

#3994 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Assuming there is a connector between the socket and the board - You're testing continuity at each connection point along the way and you lose it at the last hop as it goes into the coiled harness? Are you sure it's not just the connector pin or something? You wouldn't have to replace the whole harness, just run another wire alongside it and tie them together.

Yes, the break is between the coiled wire harness and the light. The connectors at the driver board tested OK. So just solder a new wire along the outside correct? Do I cut the existing white wire?

#3995 2 years ago
Quoted from Medisinyl:

I soldered in a new piece of wire for the time being as the cable assembly seems to be hard to find. If enough of the wire is good at the connector, you can strip a bit of that and solder/heat shrink (or method you prefer) just the one bad wire. I loosely wrapped the new wire around the coiled cable so that it can move freely with the cable and tight enough that it wouldn't catch on anything.
Preferably I'd also like to find a new assembly if they become available (perhaps I don't know where to look?), but for now it's working with the quick fix.

I will def try this! Do you have a picture of your fix? Thanks!!!

#3996 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Remember when new ramps were "right around the corner" ?
Yeah, me too.

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#3997 2 years ago

Got the call today from Trent. BSD is ready for pick up!!!

I go get it on Sunday. Soon.....!!

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#3998 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Got the call today from Trent. BSD is ready for pick up!!!
I go get it on Sunday. Soon.....!!

Is this your 3rd time owning BSD, or just 2nd?

#3999 2 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Got the call today from Trent. BSD is ready for pick up!!!
I go get it on Sunday. Soon.....!!

1/1/17. The day when you REALLY got your shit together

#4000 2 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Is this your 3rd time owning BSD, or just 2nd?

Third and final. It becomes a keeper along with AFM and TAF.

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