I may end up doing that. I do wonder how the percentage settings work. There are essentially six different rewards: points, bonus x, castle, coffin, video mode, and extra ball. Four of them have percentage settings. I wonder how the others are determined. I'll just play around a bit.

BSD is the only pin my wife plays. She had 2.4 bill pr something crazy Im close to pulling the battery's since I cant beat that score. Trust me i have spent hours and hour trying.... Love Never Dies I guess

I will never get tired of hearing 30 MILLION

I recently joined the club, pictures forthcoming... Great pin!

Does anyone have art available; full art package or possibly even just the two for the backbox? My cabinet is in excellent shape art-wise with no fade but the backbox could possibly use a bit of a refresh. The alternate art package does look neat...

Also looking for the apron stickers or maybe just hi-res scans (600dpi if I had my choice and I can do something myself as I am painting all of the armor anyway.

Would prefer to purchase from Canada or US, overseas looks to be quite pricey.

Let me know if you have anything.

Thanks.

Does having a SP playfield bring more value to a Bram Strokers Dracua vs a IS playfield?

LS (Lenc-Smith) is what you want to see, i thought.

if you guys are bored, help me over here, please:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mist-ball-gate-not-populating

From what I've read the SP play fields are less likely to plank. Not sure if it brings added value though.

I picked up a full set of artwork before purchasing mine. Still not 100% sure what I'm going to be doing with it as the typical fade doesn't really bother me that much. It's between two other pins anyway.

Yes seems sp are the more preferred of the the 2 but no cost difference bc if u have a nice ls and it hasnt planked than i doubt it ever will now.

Thanks guys. That was my thought as well. I have a SP playfield so i'm pretty happy about that.

yeah, you're right. my FT is an SP. that's what i was thinking.

my BSD is an LS, and it looks pretty nice, too. it does have a skid mark across the drac inserts, however. never seen anything like it before.

how did you guys install the proto sling covers? i'm guessing 1" female to male hex posts?

female-female most likely. Not sure the size, but I think front and back are different. It's somewhere in the thread, I think.

Pulled the trigger on the full 5-piece art plus the inside blades, I don't have much patience apparently. With the full re-work of the armour, colour to be determined, it will look sweet!

Does anyone have, or can take hi-res scans of the apron stickers?

Let me know, thanks!

quickie q here:

one of my pops is out. doesn't fire in test. solder looks good. should i try re-soldering anyway?

Test for voltage at the coil. One lead on a coil lug and other on ground braid. Then test other lug/ground voltage.

Power off, compare ohms of coil with other coils

Better description and more detail for troubleshooting here:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work

Eric

Probably the tip 102 associated with that pop bumper

Test wire continuity. Check fuse. Reseat connector.

If fuse is blown... Check gap on the leaf switch under pop.

If those things all check out, follow BigD advice... Start looking at Tip. That driver may have blown. If so, you'll need to replace driver and associated pre-driver

volts are ~72 on both lugs. next is continuity back to the board?

Yes.

Power off

hmm, which transistor is it?

right jet. looks like drive goes to j127-5. transister q52? am i reading that right?

might be a problem...

IMAG0274[1] (resized).jpg

bigd, stop laughing .

i do have continuity back to q52 at least.

I feel for u man .... reason y i take someones word on condition and workability with a grain of salt lol. I guess it cld be much worse tho so whatever ...thats pinball for u tho.

Yea id say all that will need replaced. .... not super easy without correct tools and experience ..

1" female/ male

Search in thread and you'll find the link

If you have a good solder sucker and soldering station, you can do this yourself. If you don't, contact Chris Hibler through pinside and ship your board to him. Super reliable and good price

could he redo my 24" opto board? i figure i need that one done, too. nothing visibly wrong with it, however.

He does everything...shoot him a PM.

all this will make me appreciate it more when it's working 100%. next time i know i need a flashlight. i couldn't see shit in that guy's basement.

pm sent. thanks, guys.

at least my golden tee still works (knock on wood).

Don't beat yourself up too much. It happens. I got royally screwed once by a guy that straight up lied all the way through our parking lot exchange at Allentown. Love and learn.

and this is how my son is playing the video mode on BSD...

PS : yes, he's mad !

Time to set it on hard.

Hey guys, should this loose wire with the blue tape on it get soldered to the tab just above my thumb? That's what it looks like in the manual but I wanted to double check.

20160904_230626 (resized).jpg

Sorry guys, answered my own question. Yes.

hey, bud. started a seperate thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mist-ball-gate-not-populating

i think most of the double ball was the outhole kicker being seized up. i tore apart and cleaned: working better. mist ball is opto/board related, we believe.

Hello, has anyone the Pinball_Customs BSD coffin mod? Can you please post a picture of the entire playfield switched on? I really like the mod itself, it's terrific (pun intended). But I am not sure it fits with the overall original artwork. Is the size right, or bit too big?

No. I think the built-in red filter in the speaker panel puts this game on the far back burner.

I was hoping someone could do me a favour and check which version of power driver board you have. I was referencing the manual which reports the board is A-12697-1, but the sticker on my board is A-12697-3. My board is missing the a few components like the opto isolators at u7 and u8, and I wanted to make sure I have the correct board.

I still haven't fixed the phantom opto switch, and I am grasping at straws to find a fix. Replaced all diodes in the affected column/row, reversed a improperly wired switch, replaced u20 and u19 on MPU, replaced the opto itself, swapped in a new opto board and the problem remained, checked all test points on the power driver board and the problem was fixed for a night. But, it returned the next morning. The switch will fire intermittently during game play and ruins the game. Anyone have suggestions?

I have a clear panel waiting .....

Question for all you BSD owners:

I am currently debating between purchasing a BSD or a FT (Fishtales). They've got similar pricepoints. This question being aimed at those who have experience with both: all things being equal, how does BSD prevail?

Bsd has the mist multiball and a dark intenseness to it. Fish tales is family friendly fun loving good times pinball.
Both are on the harder side of the difficulty scale.
You can't go wrong either way.

BSD has more gadgetry with the lift ramp coffin lock, subways, castle lock and mist.. FT pretty much just has the cool ball lock.

^^^. Yup. Really comes down to which theme you like more. Both offer short games on average. Pretty much the exact opposite of LOTR!

own both here. theme is the main difference. BSD is more adult-ish and can scare some little kids. FT is totally family friendly. game play: two of the best games under $3k from the WPC era. similar flow and ball times. good game code and satisfying shots on both. theme, theme, theme really.

it's kind of part of the theme, but i didn't think about it right away, sound. fire up youtube and watch some gameplay vids. pinball arcade vids are the best i think. see which one you can listen to the longest.

FT does have a great topper, and you should definitely be paying less for one.