(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11,103 posts
  • 788 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by Nicoli125
  • Topic is favorited by 323 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_20240328_211148666_HDR (resized).jpg
IMG_20240328_211151343_HDR (resized).jpg
closeup-ic-polarity (resized).jpg
PXL_20240328_000548967 (resized).jpg
17115827208782280267193227941655 (resized).jpg
20240314_090413 (resized).jpg
20240314_090424 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240310_205042362 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240310_201837504 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240310_205105814 (resized).jpg
20240307_151004 (resized).jpg
20240307_113514 (resized).jpg
P1000806 (resized).JPG
to use (resized).jpg
to use 2 (resized).jpg
to use 3 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

35 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11,103 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 223.
#3401 7 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I have a weird issue... on my third castle lock the game just sits 15 seconds until a ball search kicks-in and eventually starts castle multi-ball.
I checked the optos in the castle...all three are working and register.
Anyone else experience anything like this?

Check all of your other switches where a ball rests - trough, shooter lane, both mist pockets. Also, check to make sure the Castle optos are registering in the proper sequence (castle 1, 2, 3).

#3402 7 years ago

Will do

#3403 7 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I have a weird issue... on my third castle lock the game just sits 15 seconds until a ball search kicks-in and eventually starts castle multi-ball.
I checked the optos in the castle...all three are working and register.
Anyone else experience anything like this?

Remove all game balls.
Go into diagnostics to the switch test menu.
Test all switches and watch for "double tapping" of multiple switches in a momentary "blip" status.

Install balls.
Test in "game mode", versus diagnostics, and test play the game manually with the glass off.
My guess is you have a flaky opto transmitter, or a momentary switch closure short.
This includes removing the castle plastic molding for visual inspection while playing, in concert with the ball trough.

Start simple.

#3404 7 years ago

Also check to make sure all the balls are sitting property when in the castle lock area. Sometimes if a ball is released from there to the shooter land the next ball may not fully move into place blocking the appropriate opto. This could cause the lat ball to be locked to be short of the third opto.

#3405 7 years ago

I checked all switches and optos. Everything seems to be working. :-/

Cleaned the optos (which appeared to be clean, overall)

I guess I'll need to spend some time with the glass off to see if I can replicate the issue. Perhaps Taylor is right... Maybe the 3rd castle lock was in a bad position.

#3406 7 years ago

My left side mist gate broke. I think it is part #a-16257. Can't seem to find one, anyone know of where I can source on, or is there another part that will work? Thanks.

#3407 7 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

My left side mist gate broke. I think it is part #a-16257. Can't seem to find one, anyone know of where I can source on, or is there another part that will work? Thanks.

Marco had them a little while back, not sure if they still have some. Otherwise you can make one.

#3408 7 years ago

Had some time to work on it yesterday! image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#3409 7 years ago

I'm out of the club. I already am planning a reunion.

#3410 7 years ago
Quoted from rudygulp42:

I'm out of the club. I already am planning a reunion.

^^^^ I made that same mistake late last year. Did score a very cherry BF for it though. Luckily I was able to rejoin the club here myself in March. BSD not leaving again!! One of the most challenging and truly tough games ever made IMO.

#3411 7 years ago
Quoted from rudygulp42:

I'm out of the club. I already am planning a reunion.

Quoted from Colsond3:

^^^^ I made that same mistake late last year. Did score a very cherry BF for it though. Luckily I was able to rejoin the club here myself in March. BSD not leaving again!! One of the most challenging and truly tough games ever made IMO.

You guys are smart. VERY smart!

#3412 7 years ago

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#3413 7 years ago

. What stage hsa is that? Hoping to own a bsd someday!

#3414 7 years ago

Coming along PJM...get that thing done and back in the game!!

#3416 7 years ago

I need to be back in the game! HSA stage 2. Started to put wires on it today.

#3417 7 years ago

i recently had a repair man work on my bran strokers dracula machine because i've been having an issue with the rat hole. the hole keeps on popping, and the alter rats show up on the screen when there is no ball in the hole. i was wondering if this is a common glitch for other owners of this machine. the repair man couldn't figure out the reason behind the issue. the sensor on the hole is working properly and nothing is wrong with the other parts for the hole. he thinks it may be a programing glitch. anyone also have this problem?

#3418 7 years ago
Quoted from coalie:

i recently had a repair man work on my bran strokers dracula machine because i've been having an issue with the rat hole. the hole keeps on popping, and the alter rats show up on the screen when there is no ball in the hole. i was wondering if this is a common glitch for other owners of this machine. the repair man couldn't figure out the reason behind the issue. the sensor on the hole is working properly and nothing is wrong with the other parts for the hole. he thinks it may be a programing glitch. anyone also have this problem?

Never had that issue. That sounds like a glitchy opto or the PCB board that controls that opto needs some TLC (sold solder joints).

#3419 7 years ago

I had this issue. It was a flaky opto. The transmitter had a cracked joint so the light would keep going off, making the game think a ball was in the hole.

#3420 7 years ago

th

Quoted from aobrien5:

I had this issue. It was a flaky opto. The transmitter had a cracked joint so the light would keep going off, making the game think a ball was in the hole.

do you think i should get both the transmitter (A-14316)& the led(A-14315) replaced? the guy did say it looked like someone had tried to clean the sensor off and that it's still functioning. maybe over heating & the light triggering it?

#3421 7 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

I had this issue. It was a flaky opto. The transmitter had a cracked joint so the light would keep going off, making the game think a ball was in the hole.

This ^^^.

I would just replace both while you're at it.

#3422 7 years ago

First of three wire harnesses 90% done. The GI harness, next switch then solenoid harnesses. Nothing on the playfield yet. image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#3423 7 years ago

I've had a heck of a time finding LEDs that go into this type of Slot. My Comet Ghostbusting LEDS and PinbalLife LEDS don't seem to want to fit. Anyone know of a trick?

GhostbusterSocketIssue_(resized).jpgGhostbusterSocketIssue_(resized).jpg

#3424 7 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

I've had a heck of a time finding LEDs that go into this type of Slot. My Comet Ghostbusting LEDS and PinbalLife LEDS don't seem to want to fit. Anyone know of a trick?

buy a 'flex' led, then you can adjust it to fit the insert

#3425 7 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

I've had a heck of a time finding LEDs that go into this type of Slot. My Comet Ghostbusting LEDS and PinbalLife LEDS don't seem to want to fit. Anyone know of a trick?

Cointaker frosted worked fine. If that is the PCB for the coffin lock, take the PCB out of the game. Even out of the game in my hands, it was super tight. Don't do it installed in the game. It isn't worth the trouble.

#3426 7 years ago
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:

buy a 'flex' led, then you can adjust it to fit the insert

I think I will buy some Flex LEDs for just this. They don't put of enough light if you don't. I was
thinking of sanding down some of the plastic on the #555 LED wedge.

Anyone Else? Experience this?

#3427 7 years ago

Mine was tight also. I managed to eventually get a flex from cointaker in there though. Works great!

#3428 7 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

I think I will buy some Flex LEDs for just this.

I would just use the flex bulbs also. Much easier and less hassle, plus if the illumination isn't that great you can adjust easily and direct the light where you want it. We have flex bulbs on our site as well, and I've used them in various areas on my BSD. 10% discount for life for Pinsiders through the LOP website also (coupon code Pinfest2016).

#3429 7 years ago

Just threw a set of red Convolux on my BSD the other night too...definitely makes the lower PF pop a little more.

photo_2_(resized).JPGphoto_2_(resized).JPG

photo_6_(resized).JPGphoto_6_(resized).JPG

photo_7_(resized).JPGphoto_7_(resized).JPG

#3430 7 years ago

Sadly LEDS are hard to photograph. Definitely pops!
I've put some Violet LEDs in Mine. Really looks insane. Not sure how to photograph it without the LED flare.

#3431 7 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Just threw a set of red Convolux on my BSD the other night too...definitely makes the lower PF pop a little more.

What is this Convolux you speak of?

#3432 7 years ago

Definitely hard to photo some games with LED's...especially icy blue or purple. They create a whole lot of glare.

Quoted from PjM:

What is this Convolux you speak of?

Convolux are fluorescent protector plastics that my company sells...we just got the exclusive contract for U.S. distribution. They come in multiple colors also (red, green, orange, yellow, blue). Here is the link:

http://www.lightsoutpinball.com/store.html#!/Dracula-Williams-Flourescent-Plastic-Set-4-Pieces/p/58714610/category=16139807

Unfortunately I had to email the German company, because my right slingshot plastic was drilled incorrectly. I informed them of the problem for future orders, but I just redrilled my own as opposed to waiting, because I already had put the other 3 plastics on. I also had to put longer posts for the wireform connect and bottom slingshot post on the left also. Wasn't much room for the nut after adding the Convolux and original plastic back on, but I think my posts were extraordinarily small and worn down. Not a big deal at all.

#3433 7 years ago

I'm actually slowly moving back to the incandescent bulbs in my games. I honestly think the playfield looks better old school. Not removing all, just the ones that are not flattering to me. My backglass setup stays though!

951113c54a8deef6d4cc56ba4a1bb56b88cf38d9_(resized).jpg951113c54a8deef6d4cc56ba4a1bb56b88cf38d9_(resized).jpg

#3434 7 years ago
Quoted from MrBellMan:

I'm actually slowly moving back to the incandescent bulbs in my games. I honestly think the playfield looks better old school.

I couldn't agree more that sometimes the PF looks better old school. I would definitely leave incandescents in some of my games if they didn't get so damn hot and ruin the backglass / translite, plastics, etc.... I'd rather use LED's and prevent parts of the game from slowly becoming ruined.

#3435 7 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

I couldn't agree more that sometimes the PF looks better old school. I would definitely leave incandescents in some of my games if they didn't get so damn hot and ruin the backglass / translite, plastics, etc.... I'd rather use LED's and prevent parts of the game from slowly becoming ruined.

From everything posted about the heat issue, I'd say your safe in a home environment unless you leave your games on as long as commercial locations. Most of what you see in damage are those long turn on times. If you like old school and are in a home environment-DO IT!

#3436 7 years ago

Joined the club a couple of weeks ago. I had to trade Doctor Who, but I am happy with the outcome. I got it cleaned up and waxed, but I still have to get the skill shot plunging hard enough, adjust the right ramp, change the lighting and ditch the cabinet speaker.

20160527_234455_(resized).jpg20160527_234455_(resized).jpg

20160527_234445_(resized).jpg20160527_234445_(resized).jpg

#3437 7 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

but I still have to get the skill shot plunging hard enough

The clear plastic above the shooter lane is mounted backwards. Flip it around and it might fix your skillshot.

#3438 7 years ago

So far my Dracula is looking great with the LED's still haven't had time to "Rock In" The new #555 into the green board wedge socket.

#3439 7 years ago
Quoted from MrBellMan:

I'm actually slowly moving back to the incandescent bulbs in my games. I honestly think the playfield looks better old school. Not removing all, just the ones that are not flattering to me. My backglass setup stays though!

I followed your backglass with a few changes and it definitely is a great improvement, really adds depth. I like LED's in the inserts but prefer incandescents for the GI. I have done LED's for inserts on all my games and played with a mix of LED's and incandescents for the backglass.

#3440 7 years ago

Any owners happen to have the spare bracket or full assembly? Working on reimport for a friend only to figure out it is missing!! Game is ready to go other than that

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#3441 7 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

The clear plastic above the shooter lane is mounted backwards. Flip it around and it might fix your skillshot.

Thanks for the heads up. I switched it around, but no luck with the skill shot yet. I also replaced the coil sleeve and tried adjusting the plastic ramp. I think it might be the one way gate at the top right of the pops.

#3442 7 years ago

On my Drac, when the ball wasn't hitting the skillshot, it was to do with the plastic ramp having a lip on the end bent slightly upwards. (heat damage over the years) Had to bend it down with a hairdryer. Now works flawless

#3443 7 years ago

Getting closer!image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

#3444 7 years ago

Your playfield looks amazing!

#3445 7 years ago

Your workshop looks amazing.

#3446 7 years ago

I am looking at putting lightning flippers on. Would black or yellow look the best? I am leaning towards black flippers with red rubber. Does anyone have pictures?

#3447 7 years ago

I did black with blue superbands and it was soso blue looked great with my yellows. Black with clear though was hotttt! Its what i rocked until i sold it.

#3448 7 years ago

I want to BUY one, so I can be in the club. PM if anyone has one they want to sell.

#3449 7 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

I am looking at putting lightning flippers on. Would black or yellow look the best? I am leaning towards black flippers with red rubber. Does anyone have pictures?

Between black and yellow, I would go with yellow. Planetary pinball has a blood red flipper that looks very cool.

Note: Some games where shipped with the blood red flipper (so I've been told).

#3450 7 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Between black and yellow, I would go with yellow. Planetary pinball has a blood red flipper that looks very cool.
Note: Some games where shipped with the blood red flipper (so I've been told).

rumor has it the red ones break easy. i think that yellow is the bomb.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 109.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 69.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
From: $ 110.00
Playfield - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
$ 285.99
Cabinet - Other
PinSound
Other
$ 84.99
Cabinet - Decals
FlyLand Designs
Decals
$ 46.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
Eproms
$ 17.50
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Haus
Sound/Speakers
$ 25.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Rocket City Pinball
Toys/Add-ons
$ 399.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
Decals
$ 17.50
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 12.00
Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
Tools
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
Other
From: $ 27.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
Boards
$ 79.00
Boards
PinballReplacementParts
Boards
From: $ 1.49
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 64.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
From: $ 399.95
Boards
PinSound
Boards
$ 19.95
Playfield - Protection
SilverBall Designs
Protection
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 225.00
Cabinet - (Alt) Translites
FlyLand Designs
(Alt) Translites
$ 85.00
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Decals
$ 39.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
There are 11,103 posts in this topic. You are on page 69 of 223.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/69 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.