Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

Most hobby shops and art supply stores carry small aluminum tubing that you can cut down and use in place of those. Works perfectly.

1. yes
2. advance cross until its full, than uper the ramp to open the coffin to lock 3 balls for MB
3. ...
4a. for what i remember, already happend too
4b. no prob here, same on all BSD, sound power not the same for all the sequence (dont know if its done that way or just bad-done)

double post edit

Intentional. May be configurable.

1. Once the mist insert is lit (blinking after 5 left ramp shots), you shoot the ball into the Mystery Hole. That should initiate the mistball, which you have to hit with your free pinball off of the magnetic track. Once you do that, mist multiball begins.

2. The right ramp awards a lit insert on the cross directly in front of the right ramp. Once all 5 are lit, the ramp lifts up and you shoot there to initiate coffin ball locks. The left ramp will bring the ball back to the right inlane which WILL reward you with a Mystery award once you hit the hole.

3. You are referring to this setup:

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The problem is you are probably missing the clear plastic which should be mounted where the ramp flap and the hard ramp meet. You can find them here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-dracula-clear-plastic-reproductions-available

Check with Jason, the OP of that thread. His Etsy store is here with the BSD plastics you may need: https://www.etsy.com/listing/173278432/bram-stokers-dracula-pinball-clear

4a. This happens from time to time. Remember, BSD has code like.... v1.0. To the best of my knowledge, there were NO new polished version of the initial code released. Sometimes, weird things are going to happen like that. To the best of my knowledge, this does happen from time to time. It is super rare, but it does happen.

4b. BSD is known for amplifying its sounds, particularly when multiballs are stacked. As you stack more multiballs, the music, sounds, and callouts will start to boom. This is totally normal.

BSD is a unique beast. With the mist ball and buggy code, it can throw someone for a loop who is not familiar with all of its.....special traits. We all go through it - next year - you'll be helping someone else out just like this . Welcome to the club!

Thanks! I'll have to start looking for those.

Does anywhere sell the clear plastic coffin ramp?

Thanks RipleYYY and NPO! I am definitely missing those plastics. NPO, where does the non-curved one go? I don't have either of the plastics in the thread you mentioned.

It sounds like like my mist multiball isn't working 100%. I'll start the debug by cleaning the optos. Unfortunately I damaged a flipper coil (which was in poor shape anyway) while trying to change the coil sleeve, so I cannot play until I get a replacement coil. So... instead of playing I'm already tearing down the playfield for a deep cleaning and waxing.

Right above the shooter lane.

You can turn the sound amplification off in the menus but why would you do that

I am considering replacing the DMD. Is it a regular Dot Matrix 128 x 32 Plasma display, Bally/Williams Part No. 5901-12784-00?
Anything particular to think about when buying?
Is this item at Pinball Center ok?
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/dot-matrix-128-plasma-display-p-1699.html?language=english

Might not be too difficult to find a decent used display with so many people upgrading their games with colorDMD.

Did MrBellMans Led backbox chart, Really brought it to another level. Thanks for the tip

bsd backglass.jpg

Also these flippers are very strong, could they be too far above the holes below them? Would that make a difference?

bsd flippers.jpg

No difference. What coils are installed?

The orange ones , they were stock on the machine. Does harder vs softer flipper rubber make a difference?

It makes a difference in controlling the ball, stall - drop stop - passing etc.

For standard rubber rings orange and green are pretty bouncey. Yellow seems a little less, and I like how black plays the most.

I completed my shop and the game playing is pretty well. I figured out my mist multiball problem. The switch for right ramp and the mystery hole were swapped at the connectors under the playfield. I have a few more questions.

Shoots up the video lane hit the drop target just fine but shots from the shooter lane hit the post just down from the drop target instead. How do I adjust this the shooter lane? It looks like the blood plastic is a bit askew with the inside (toward playfield) being a bit higher than the outside but I think that is the way it is supposed to be.

I seem to be having problems now with my coils being too clean / strong. The feeder coil for the shooter lane hits the ball too hard and the ball bounces back into the trough 25-33% of the time. The other problem is the village VUK (after the mystery hole) hits the ball so hard that the ball bounces when it gets to the playfield. I've check both coils and they are the right ones according to the manual. Any simple way to dampen their power and adjust them so that these problems don't happen?

Bend the tab on the end of the trough in a bit so the ball is deflected more downward on its way out. Too much and the ball won't fit, too little and it'll bounce off the side and fall back in.

Adjust the coil that hits the ball out of the shooter lane by removing the apron and re-adjust the coil assembly to where it hits the dead center of the ball. These kinds of adjustments take time and patience. Keep the apron off and adjust it until you get it just right.

For the village VUK,I used to have that problem with my 1st BSD. Best advice is either adjust the coil where it hits the ball, or adjust the wireform that takes the ball back to the left inlane.

BSD is a very finicky game. It's why people love and hate it to death. Easily one of the "exotic stigma" games.

Thanks for all the help everyone! I have my BSD playing really well right now. It still needs a few minor adjustments and part replacements but thanks to the advice in this thread I've fixed most of the issues.

How can anyone not like BSD?! This game is brutal and it is the only pin that I've ever played which tells me it loves me! I love you too BSD, I love you too.

When my AMH hits in the next week BSD will be headed to the garage for a full tear down and cabinet decal. While I have it apart what are the available mods other than LEDS and blood red flippers?

I finished installing the new plastic set this past weekend. One adjustment that is working well- adding a washer under the feet of the coffin ramp, just on the side that is closest to that curvy plastic.

1.jpg

I made a few color changes while torn down. Yellow posts near the flippers, purple in the middle section and red up top. I got tired of seeing everything red. I also put a heavy black cardboard in the coffin to block out the green light bleeding through from the lightboard. Now it's nice and dark in there except for when the flashers are going off.
2.jpg
3.jpg
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Hopefully, you've got a new set of plastics. If not, I know where you can get a set.

Great job on the plastics set!

Another thing I found out with BSD (after so many LEDs were poking me straight in the eye)... I like the look of warm LEDs. I bought some of Marco's white bulb condoms and put them over Sunlight bulbs. There are a good match for warm LEDs now but much softer on the eyes.

Losing your memory old man...I bought a set from you a few months ago

Cool all day, brother.

I know this is a stretch but does anyone know what size rivet and rivet backing is used on the entry ramp flap? All the backings I have stick out the side of the flap.

Hello,

I am keeping shopping my BSD and I have two questions, one for each of the following pics.

1. I have a problem with two micro-switch (coffin ramp and left inlane - see first and second pic). When I turn the machine on, those two micro-switches do not work: when they are actuated by the ball, the little button is not properly pushed. It's enough I push them manually few times, and then I hear a "click" sound and the microswitches start to work fine. I think the metal part pushing the button is a bit loose and at first does not push it down properly. Or maybe it's the button itself a bit "lazy" at first. Anyway, I bought replacements at Pinball Center following the number part on the manual. On pics 1 and 2 the new microswitched are close the old ones. The switch itself seems similar, but the metal finger is different (actually those two switch have the same part number on the manual, but the metal "finger" of the old ones is different between each other too. Also, there are three little metal bars sticking from the miscroswitch: on the old ones the external bars are connected with a special wire, but the new parts I received from Pinball Centre do not have this connection. Are my new microswitches the right ones?

2. In the cabinet I found three spare parts (last pic): what are those?

foto_2.jpg

foto_3.jpg

foto_4.jpg

Good that you bought new switches. They look fine. By "special wire" do you mean the one with the black cylinder with the silver band? That's a diode, and you'll need to put a new one on. You /could/ move the diode from the old switch, but they're super cheap and you should replace it anyway.

Those two bolts are the head bolts and they should be screwed in to the bottom of the head into the cabinet so the head doesn't fall down. And that style is much in demand so be glad you got them.

Not sure what the third piece is.

All right, gang. I have been waiting to post this one for a little while now. Check this out.

So, fellow Pinsider, modfather, reached out to me and offered to paint the village and castle for $50. Actually, it would have been all 3: village, castle, and graveyard, but unfortunately I was cracked for time and could only get the village and castle out. Sent them off to him last Monday, got them back in today. Holy cow. Dude, just look at the before pictures:

20150614_205853.jpg20150614_210629.jpg

Now, look at the after pictures o_o...

20150626_200742.jpg20150626_200850.jpg

And with them in the machine:

20150626_201827.jpg20150626_201836.jpg20150626_201850.jpg

This was WELL worth $50. He did an absolutely outstanding job. The paint is covered in a clearcoat, so it is safe if you have oily hands like me.

Sucks having your machine with plastics missing, but at least my game was still fully functional with the plastics gone, so hey, if you're willing to wait a good 1.5-2 weeks, his price is VERY fair. He does a lot more than just this too. That's why they call him the Modfather .

10/10 - couldn't be any happier unless I could have gotten my graveyard sent to him as well.... ._.

Thanks Aobrien. So if the microswitches are fine, I guess I will need to adjust the shape of the "finger", because they all look different from each other. Right?

..ah ok, thats a diode! ...a newbie here.. Still learning the basics! )

Honestly, when I start having recurring issues with microswitches, I replace them. Although you can adjust the metal ( finger ) switch activator, it seems more trouble then it's worth , and for me anyway it seems to require more frequent adjustments. I think the small button gets gummy over time too.

Only a few minutes tops, if you have a soldering iron. You obviously want to use the correct actuator arm too. Rollover switches are thinner, like wire, compared to the wider metal ones for wireform switches.

The metal arms on the microswitches can be popped off and interchanged too.

Those are thumb screws to secure the head to the cabinet, and the other is a shim that goes under one of the pads of one of your playfield supports.

Edit. AObrien already answered about the screws.

thanks. which pad of which support?

Your old ramps switch looks way bent out of shape. See if the new one works as is.

Hard to see what your new inlane switch arm looks like in the pic. like Toaster said, it should be a wire arm, not a flat arm like your ramp switch. But if it's the right type, again, I'd say your old one is bent out of shape so try the new one as is.

newbie here. I have a soldering iron and already used it successfully. In this case it looks like I have to un-solder the actuator arms and the diode. right? and how to do this?

You should get new diodes, and you should not have to touch the actuator arms. Post a better pic of old vs new so we can see the arms.

Both supports have one shim each towards the middle of the playfield, ie not by the apron.

Sorry newbie and not native speaker.. What and where are those two supports?

Actually I think I got the wrong switches. I checked the part number on the manual: the last two digits are different and now all makes sense. I need part 5647-12693- -19 and -21. The ones I got are -25! Wrong ones.

About the diodes, I see there are many types for sale on pinballcentre. Which ones I need for switches -19 and -21?

No problem. When you raise the playfield up and out of the cabinet there are two metal "U" shaped bars attached to the bottom of the playfield that are used to support the playfield on the cabinet in a slightly raised position. These bars are called playfield supports.

1N4004 and then you can use them on coils also.

Do you mean this? I checked the right one too, but no evidence of this shim..

image.jpg

Thanks! So do I simply need to solder the end part of the diode to the external fingers of the switch?

That's it. Someone had it off at some point, and reinstalled it backward from what I can see. The shims aren't super important though.

Remove the old diode and wires and get a good physical connection (through the hole in the lug and then wrap around) on the new diode and wires and then solder. Make sure the band on the diode and the wires are installed exactly as they where before.

Jeremiah,

your drac looks great man, I hope you are enjoying it!

Anybody ever have this happen ? My bsd in video mode wont shoot bullets on the right flipper but the flipper works fine any help is appreciated i wanna kill some wolfs people help

The Flipper Optos off the buttons go to the Fliptronics board. The Fliptronics board tells the flipper solenoids to fire and also reports switch closure to the MPU. I'm going to guess that your flipper doesn't work when you try to set a high score either. Try reseating connector J903 on the fliptronics board first.