A lot of the mist issues I have had were fixed by bending/tweaking the mist gates. They get hit a lot and sometimes end up in the sight of the optos.

Its been a while but I am going to build a few batches of these mods again. pm me if your interested. Heres the old link.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-mods-mod-video-posted#post-996820

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Guess who is home and now a member of the club once again ?

Man, this example is SO nice. Weirpinball will be coming over to help me get this up the stairs later today (Sunday). Once it is setup, I will take a good number of pictures for everyone to see. This is a SUPER nice example!

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I'd love to see some more info about the mods. Where are they hooked in? What does it take to install them, etc. They look great.

Welcome back man!! If you ever have to come back for a 3rd time.....we will have words. You have been warned
Seriously tho looks to be a sweet BSD...grats.

My 2nd BSD has gone to NPO, he will be missed. Yes there will be a third in my future. Seriously congrats Jeremiah, awesome time meeting you and playing some games.

Thanks, man. It was a pleasure to meet you too, Ryan. Seriously, I had a fantastic time, and I know Corvette went to a loving family and a great pinhead who will take great care of it.

As for BSD, here's a couple pictures !

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Great looking NPO, congrats!!

(while looking at the pics I wondered, why is there a crucifix on the thombstone of Dracula ..... ??? Can some Dracula "nerd" enlighten me on this )

I've got 2 Romanian cleaners, who have become friends, mostly after I spent ages boring them about pinball, phonographs, arcade games and jukeboxes.. They love this pin. "Welcome to the Carpathians" hehe. Imagine being from the country that contains Transylvania? So cool. They know, and have taught me, a helluva lot about Dracula and the legends underlying the story, theme parks in Romania etc.

IMO Eastern Europe will rise again.. It is the China of Europe. Or something.

<bluote cite="#2499473">Thanks, man. It was a pleasure to meet you too, Ryan. Seriously, I had a fantastic time, and I know Corvette went to a loving family and a great pinhead who will take great care of it.
As for BSD, here's a couple pictures !
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One thing I noticed is that the one decorative plastic on your lower pop bumper actually goes on the top left pop.

Lol. I wasn't going to say anything.

And it's staying right there . Helps make my BSD "different" (read: technically inaccurate).

Got new speakers on the way to upgrade the 22 year old ones. Ron Jeremy already replaced with the "old man Dracula" mod and the external sub has been hooked up. Coffin lock always sounds so awesome with a sub!!

Hi, whats the best tool to uns rew those? Whats the size?image.jpg

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I use a nut driver...don't remember the size

Congrats NPO glad you got another one

Its either 1/4" or 5/16"

Join the club yesterday with a couple of buds. We are adding it to our location as soon as I get it shopped out and get a U.S. Coin door in it.

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It's a 1/4" Nut Driver. You don't even wanna try doing much at all with that little open end wrench. You will lose your mind in certain scenarios. A good trick while reinstalling the screw into wherever is to insert the screw into the 1/4" socket with a little scrap of paper towel wedged in there to hold the screw. Now you can just hold the nut driver with screw held in place while you fish it through the wire mess and start screwing when you find the hole! Hmmmmm that sounded bad lol.

Get Klein magnetic nut drivers @ pinball life. Joe

Yuuuuuup, magnetic nut drivers and screwdrivers are worth every penny!

Totally. Gonna get em one day lol. I still use my non magnetic set haha.

Have any of you upgraded the speakers on BSD? I'd really like to enhance the sound but I'm not sure what the best method is. I see Flipper Fidelity has 2 options, and one is much cheaper than the other. Will simply replacing the speakers do the trick, or is there something special about the full kit?

Also wondering if there is a clear speaker panel produced yet... I'd love to put a color DMD into this one.

You can get a panel with a clear window. Check eBay.

I am going to replace the rubber on the lightning bats. First time, so need some suggestions.. Is the color influencing the behaviour of the rubber? Do lightning flippers require shorter special rubbers? Which color is suggested for BSD? (At the moment i have yellow lightning bats with red rubber)

Lee from leesparts was over last night, now my BSD's mist hole lights up Blue for mystery & jackpot and Red for mist & extra ball.

if 2 are lit it makes it purple which is adds a nice effect.

I also have 2 lamps on my graveyard (Blue) but i think i might get some UV's & some paint.

I'll try to bring my camera home from work and get some pics.

Also just got a nice external sub for free yesterday that i plan on hooking up tonight

Nothing special needed. Color doesn't really matter, pick your favorite. You can get special rubbers (Super Bands, etc), that do play differently, but if you get standard red/black rubber, they're pretty much the same.

I like black bats with red rubber for BSD. You use the same size rubber for lightning flips as normal flips....

Here's some pics of the Mist Hole Lights

as always the pics don't do justice

It looks great when you drain, the machine goes dark except a few lights like mystery stay on

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That is really cool, Tim!!! I love it!

As for me, got the speakers upgraded and put the proto plastics in near the slingshots!

"Old man" Drac is in the coffin as well. I have some ideas for incorporating the bat version of Dracula into this game. That one may be a lil' while to implement...

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thanks jeremiah! looking forward to the upgrade. may your super jackpots be plentiful!

Man NPO, you really know how to make a games sound rock

I love the speakers you put in mine, and cause of it I'll upgrade all the speakers in any other game i get

Are the speakers you got fairly plug & play? I've been considering upgrading mine, would appreciate any installation details you have.

They are plug and play. The only modification is for the 3.5" speaker. Instead of reusing the thread holes and the bolts both used to mount the factory speaker, you have to make new holes to mount the new 3.5" speaker. This is because the new 3.5" speaker is about 1" bigger in diameter then the stock speaker, so you cannot reuse the stock mounting holes.What I do is use the 2 hex screws that were originally used to mount the electrolytic capacitor near the factory speaker. I take a 1/32" drill bit to start a pilot hole for each hex head screw, and those 2 screws will hold the new speaker in just fine. For the pilot holes, do NOT drill far at all. All you need are two very small starter holes, like what you would get if you used an awl for drilling a hole in metal.

Thanks. It will be interesting to hear if any difference in sound... cheap enough to give it a try.

You can take the part numbers right off the pictures I posted and go to Parts Express Online. They should all be in stock. Normally, I get Pyle 3.5" and 5.25" speakers so they match, but unfortunately the 5.25" Pyle are out until the last week of June. No way I was waiting that long :p.

Any recommendations for an external sub?

Yep, this bad boy right here:

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Polk+Audio+PSW10

You can hook up 2 pins to it at once, so the sub can be shared between two games. Personally, I have under each of my games, and on BSD, holy crap is it awesome.

New Graveyard and Tunnel Lights mods from LeesParts.com now available. Thanks to TimTim for letting me use his machine.

http://www.leesparts.com/products/dracula-graveyard-lights.html
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http://www.leesparts.com/products/dracula-tunnel-lights.html
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Got these bad boys in today. I am working on making a plate for the bat figure to stand on, and then mounting it at the end of the habittrail where the ball leaves the coffin and returns to the pop bumpers. If there is a way I can incorporate a spotlight to shine on him when Bats Mode is enabled, that'll be the shiznat.

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I have had a couple people ask me about speaker replacements in BSD. I wrote up an email earlier today, and I figured I'd share it with everyone here. This post will have all the details needed to pretty much pick out and install new speakers in your BSD or any equivalent WPC game!

The speaker upgrade is always a good investment, and the sounds produced from new speakers is simply awesome. I will say this: we are simply swapping out speakers from a quarter century ago and installing new ones along with introducing an external sub. Just wanted to warn you: don't expect to spend $175-$200 of speakers and expect a $3000 sounding system in a high end luxury car.

With that disclaimer out of the way, you will want to buy the following components:

1 pair of 3.5" Pyle speakers: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770

1 pair of 5.25" Pyle/Lanzer speakers (the Pyles are out of stock until late June; the Lanzers are a plug and play speaker just as the Pyles):

5.25" Pyles: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080

5.25" Lanzers: http://www.parts-express.com/lanzar-mx53-5-1-4-140-watt-3-way-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-7160

For the cabinet speaker, you'll want to get a Pyramid Pro 6.5" mid-range woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-w64-6-1-2-pro-plus-midbass-woofer--290-025

There's even a user review for the Pyramid Pro saying he used it as a direct-fit replacement for his WPC pinball machine. That made me smile - whoever that was!

The external sub I use is an external Polk PSW10: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Polk+Audio+PSW10

The 6.5" cabinet speaker has two tabs for both the "+" and "-" leads (one set will be used for the wiring coming from the game's harness). I simply stripped the ends of the wire coming from the sub and alligator clipped those raw leads onto the remaining pair of leads.

All the speakers are plug and play except the 3.5" ones. For that, you'll need to do the following:

The only modification is for the 3.5" speaker. Instead of reusing the thread holes and the bolts both used to mount the factory speaker, you have to make new holes to mount the new 3.5" speaker. This is because the new 3.5" speaker is about 1" bigger in diameter then the stock speaker, so you cannot reuse the stock mounting holes.What I do is use the 2 hex screws that were originally used to mount the electrolytic capacitor near the factory speaker. I take a 1/32" drill bit to start a pilot hole for each hex head screw, and those 2 screws will hold the new speaker in just fine. For the pilot holes, do NOT drill far at all. All you need are two very small starter holes, like what you would get if you used an awl for drilling a hole in metal.

And that's that guys! Any questions, let me know!

<blocke="#2508613">I have had a couple people ask me about speaker replacements in BSD. I wrote up an email earlier today, and I figured I'd share it with everyone here. This post will have all the details needed to pretty much pick out and install new speakers in your BSD or any equivalent WPC game!
The speaker upgrade is always a good investment, and the sounds produced from new speakers is simply awesome. I will say this: we are simply swapping out speakers from a quarter century ago and installing new ones along with introducing an external sub. Just wanted to warn you: don't expect to spend $175-$200 of speakers and expect a $3000 sounding system in a high end luxury car.
With that disclaimer out of the way, you will want to buy the following components:
1 pair of 3.5" Pyle speakers: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
1 pair of 5.25" Pyle/Lanzer speakers (the Pyles are out of stock until late June; the Lanzers are a plug and play speaker just as the Pyles):
5.25" Pyles: http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080
5.25" Lanzers: http://www.parts-express.com/lanzar-mx53-5-1-4-140-watt-3-way-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-7160
For the cabinet speaker, you'll want to get a Pyramid Pro 6.5" mid-range woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-w64-6-1-2-pro-plus-midbass-woofer--290-025
There's even a user review for the Pyramid Pro saying he used it as a direct-fit replacement for his WPC pinball machine. That made me smile - whoever that was!
The external sub I use is an external Polk PSW10: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Polk+Audio+PSW10
The 6.5" cabinet speaker has two tabs for both the "+" and "-" leads (one set will be used for the wiring coming from the game's harness). I simply stripped the ends of the wire coming from the sub and alligator clipped those raw leads onto the remaining pair of leads.
All the speakers are plug and play except the 3.5" ones. For that, you'll need to do the following:
The only modification is for the 3.5" speaker. Instead of reusing the thread holes and the bolts both used to mount the factory speaker, you have to make new holes to mount the new 3.5" speaker. This is because the new 3.5" speaker is about 1" bigger in diameter then the stock speaker, so you cannot reuse the stock mounting holes.What I do is use the 2 hex screws that were originally used to mount the electrolytic capacitor near the factory speaker. I take a 1/32" drill bit to start a pilot hole for each hex head screw, and those 2 screws will hold the new speaker in just fine. For the pilot holes, do NOT drill far at all. All you need are two very small starter holes, like what you would get if you used an awl for drilling a hole in metal.
And that's that guys! Any questions, let me know!

So no capacitor is used anymore?

Nope. I always take it out now. If I understand it correctly, that capacitor is there to reduce any "white noise" or fuzzy noise. The new speakers negate the need for the capacitor.

The capictor is to make that speaker a tweeter

So here was a new one for me. I got done playing a game, and I noticed a credit dot appeared on my DMD.

Went into switch test mode, error that popped up was the following: "Check Switch F8 - U.L. Flipper But."

Now this error came completely out of nowhere; I had no precursor that this was going to happen. First things first: I did some homework on it, and it appears that this is an error that occurs whenever an opto goes out. All right, fair enough, here are the steps I took:

1. Took off the female connectors to each flipper opto board, applied de-oxit to all female ends and 120 grit sandpaper to all the male pins. Put everything back together.

Checked - error still present.

2. Went to the Fliptronics II board and did the same as step #1 to all female and male pins. Put everything back together.

Checked - error still present.

3. Swapped opto flipper boards to see if the error would come up reading differently.

Checked - error still present.

4. Checked all the under PF optos as well as the ones in the right orbital, left ramp, and mist ball in "Switch Test Mode." All of them checked out fine.

Checked - error still present.

5. Swapped Fliptonic II boards with the one in my JM.

Checked - error still present.

At this point, I just said "heck with it, let me play a game and see what happens" at which point I played with the glass off and got a funny idea. I enabled Mist Multiball and let the Mist ball travel across the entire PF. Once I did this, I noted that the credit dot had disappeared.

Also, my JM has been playing 100% fine so far - all 4 flipper buttons work 100% as of this writing.

Moral of the story: the credit dot MAY NOT disappear after a quick reboot; you may have to actually play a game and engage the once-faulty switch to clear the credit dot. Unfortunately, I do not know EXACTLY which step corrected the credit dot - just figured this information may help someone down the road.

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I've been experimenting with color a bit, trying to figure out what I like before I replace the rest of my plastics. Yea or Nay on the yellow star posts? I was thinking about replacing red underneath the village and castle plastics as well, leaving the rest red. What other alternate colors has anyone tried & liked?

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Sure makes the lower playfield look bright.

This is my 3rd BSD since 2007, my fav pin hands down! Just finished putting it back together, sanded inside of cab, touched up outside of cab, stripped top n bottom of PF, painted castles, custom Drac figure(made by fellow pinsider), Lasserific topper, polk sub etc etc. This pin was a stinky, dirty, routed pin and it took 2 yrs to do everything (used to be able to do all that in 2-3 days, now my 2 boys are a priority over my pins. ha
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I just joined this club today! The pin I picked up is a mixed bag. The playfield looks really great and all the ramps and plastics looks to be in very good condition (with the exception of the center plastic over the targets. That seems to be a junk reproduction). the cabinent is solid but faded. Eletronics looks good.

I have a few beginner questions:
1. What are the rules to start mist multiball? Once the mist multiball insert is lit if you shoot that hole should mist mulitball start immediately? That doesn't happen for me. The hole consistently awards mystery awards so the switches in there are working. Also the mist multiball insert is never lit fully. It blinks. I've seen mist multiball a few times in my handful of games but I'm not sure what is starting it. Sometimes I have shot the hole multiple times when the insert is lit and never get mist multiball.

2. What is the right ramp supposed to award? It is giving me mystery award which seems wrong.

3. When the right ramp flap is down the movable ramp is maybe 1/8" lower than the rest of the ramp. This leads to rejects on the ramp more often that it should. Any tips on how to raise the flap or lower the rest of the ramp such that the two pieces are level?

4. In the 3 hours the game has been at my house I've had 2 weird sound issues.
a. The music stopped working. The sound effects continued. I reset the pin and the problem persisted and then a minute or two later the sound came back.
b. At least once the sound for multiball was much louder than the regular sound. It was like 5/10 before multiball, 8/10 during and went back to 5/10 as soon as multiball was over.
Thoughts on what is causing these sound problems? I am going to re-seat connectors...

Thanks!

Hey guys, does anyone know what these small stand off posts are called or possibly have a part number?

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Anyone know how to fix chipped lighting bolts? It might be just the clearcoat. Has any made new inserts?