(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by PinballWizard666
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31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7074 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 142.
#1551 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Suggestions? Is this a question of needing a new set of the sound chips? Game still plays great, but I miss the music, callouts, etc.

Can't help with this one, haven't had sound problems.... yet...

I'd start a new thread.

#1552 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Sounds like you need to invest in The Pinball Arcade.

Yes, but with MY luck...........................

: )

#1553 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Did you try just swapping bulbs and wriggling the connector? For me, the one in the backboard under the red silhouette of Dracula was loose and I needed to reflow the solder on the twist socket.

I did, and got the volt meter out and confirmed that no power is coming to the socket neither there or the 2 flashers under dracula's coffin (on the coffin plate assembly) in the flasher test. I did a quick visual and continuity test (without removing) on the fuses and everything seemed good as well. I think the next step in trace the wires and see if anything is glaringly wrong. Maybe the Q42 transistor?

#1554 5 years ago
Quoted from CptAwesomest:

I think the next step in trace the wires and see if anything is glaringly wrong.

That's where I would go. Also easy to test the transistor if you can get to it.

#1555 5 years ago

Got my first triple stacked multiball last night, what a rush! Thirrrrrrtttyyyyyyy Millllllion!!!

After looking at some pictures, it looks like I am missing the clear plastic that goes over the coffin ramp and it's causing some shots to be rejected. Anyone know where I can get one of these? Also looking for the purple/yellow plastic that goes to the right of the coffin ramp if anyone has one. Thanks!

26002-i.jpg

#1556 5 years ago

Does #1 missing cause rejects in the form of airballs? that's the only thing that would make sense.

Bryan Kelly has a full set of plastics coming out soon (we hope). That may be your best to replace those two (and probably your other cracked/broken ones, too).

#1557 5 years ago

Ya that is exactly it, if a shot goes in with any power it jumps up and hits the main ramp as it turns the corner and gets rejected. Very frustrating. I guess I could make something temporarily, but I wasn't sure if Bryan Kellys set would come with the clear pieces.

The plastic labeled #2 is not as important to me, I have one but it's cracked, I will probably just glue it in the meantime.

#1558 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

Ya that is exactly it, if a shot goes in with any power it jumps up and hits the main ramp as it turns the corner and gets rejected. Very frustrating. I guess I could make something temporarily, but I wasn't sure if Bryan Kellys set would come with the clear pieces.
The plastic labeled #2 is not as important to me, I have one but it's cracked, I will probably just glue it in the meantime.

I made one out of clear lexan and still have the old one. I can mail you the old one, (thich is yellowing with age,) or I can make a new reproduction one for you which will be EXTREMELY close to the original. Just let me know.

#1559 5 years ago
Quoted from mcclad:

I made one out of clear lexan and still have the old one. I can mail you the old one, (thich is yellowing with age,) or I can make a new reproduction one for you which will be EXTREMELY close to the original. Just let me know.

Dude, that's awesome, thank you so much! I sent you a PM.

#1560 5 years ago

Thanks for being cool Mcclad.

#1561 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Thanks for being cool Mcclad.

I try. I may fall short sometimes, but I try. LOL

#1562 5 years ago

I'm in thanks to jho159
He picked it and delivered it!
Awesome pinsider and friend there huh?

#1563 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

Ya that is exactly it, if a shot goes in with any power it jumps up and hits the main ramp as it turns the corner and gets rejected. Very frustrating. I guess I could make something temporarily, but I wasn't sure if Bryan Kellys set would come with the clear pieces.
The plastic labeled #2 is not as important to me, I have one but it's cracked, I will probably just glue it in the meantime.

The clear plastics will be included.

#1564 5 years ago

Anyone know where I can get reolacement inserts?

#1565 5 years ago

Hit the triple multiball three times now and joined the billion club on attempt 3.
This table is such a rush and no shot is ever guaranteed.

10
#1566 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

Ya that is exactly it, if a shot goes in with any power it jumps up and hits the main ramp as it turns the corner and gets rejected. Very frustrating. I guess I could make something temporarily, but I wasn't sure if Bryan Kellys set would come with the clear pieces.
The plastic labeled #2 is not as important to me, I have one but it's cracked, I will probably just glue it in the meantime.

I made one for you skywelker. I will put it in the mail on Monday.002-73.JPG

#1567 5 years ago

That looks awesome! Thanks again, truly appreciated!

1 week later
#1568 5 years ago

I found this cool Department 56 Dracula Castle and used it as a topper:

dept 56 castle sm.jpg

It comes with a red light that plugs into the wall but I wired it to the coin door so it would flash. Crappy video but you get the idea:

I ran the coin door light wires (6v & signal) plus ground to the topper so I have a steady light and a flashing but can't find a good combo I like so I just used the flasher so far. I wanted to do a steady white and have the red flash over it but the white drowns out the red too much and muting the white just turned the red orange. I'll keep experimenting but it's still cool with a red that flashes.

#1569 5 years ago

hi g, how much was it? I found a cheap wooden castle and painted it with gray fleck. came out o.k. I put a blue led strip in front of it . now it looks great.i still need to add some flashers. joe

#1570 5 years ago

This one is no longdr produced but I got lucky and found it on eBay for $28 though they normally sell for more. This one was missing the Bela Legosi Dracula figure which I didn't want anyway. Post a pic of what you put together.

#1571 5 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

BSD down! My game has a short. Report says Ground Short on row 3. Same fuse keeps blowing and killing the power to the opto board. No point in continuing to replace the fuse until finding and eliminating the cause for the short. Any ideas on what could be causing it? It seems to occur when lifting the playfield up and down. My tech came out today and was unable to identify the culprit. He took the CPU board with him to run some tests to make sure it's not a bad chip or something. Process of elimination.

Well hopefully your tech will find whats wrong but if you still had the board, look at the report and find the same colored wires on the cpu board, unhook that connector and power up the game, if the error goes away you have a something shorted at the playfield level if error is still present with that particular connector removed its at the board level.

#1572 5 years ago

I made one for you skywelker. I will put it in the mail on Monday.

i noticed my game is missing this plastic as well. I can make one, no problem, but can someone tell me if the picture in the attachment of the plastic is about the correct/actual size? I printed it off and can use it as template to make my own. thanks

#1573 5 years ago

hi g, crappy camera but you get the idea. the led strip puts a blue wash on the castle. joe

SAM_0183.JPG SAM_0184.JPG
#1574 5 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

I made one for you skywelker. I will put it in the mail on Monday.
i noticed my game is missing this plastic as well. I can make one, no problem, but can someone tell me if the picture in the attachment of the plastic is about the correct/actual size? I printed it off and can use it as template to make my own. thanks

Never mind,
i printed, scaled it up to fit the Centerline distance of the holes, and made a new clear plastic. Thanks for posting the pictures of the plastic.

#1575 5 years ago

Quality Cab art

#1576 5 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

hi g, crappy camera but you get the idea. the led strip puts a blue wash on the castle. joe

That looks cool, like the blue, I might try blue & red instead of white and red...

#1577 5 years ago

Nice looking toppers.

Any news on the ramps from Pinballinc?

#1578 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

Any news on the ramps from Pinballinc?

No. I expect you have months to go.

#1579 5 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Never mind,
i printed, scaled it up to fit the Centerline distance of the holes, and made a new clear plastic. Thanks for posting the pictures of the plastic.

That plastic really made the game play a lot better. Mcclad really hooked me up!

#1580 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

That plastic really made the game play a lot better. Mcclad really hooked me up!

Mine is also missing. Never knew it was suppose to be there until this thread. Guess I will try to make one tonight. So it stops the ramp rejects Skywelker?
Thanks,
Keith

#1581 5 years ago

No more rejects when this plastic is installed

BSD_Battlesuit.JPG
#1582 5 years ago
Quoted from kpull:

Mine is also missing. Never knew it was suppose to be there until this thread. Guess I will try to make one tonight. So it stops the ramp rejects Skywelker?
Thanks,
Keith

I can honestly say I haven't had a single reject since it was installed. Before installation it was at least 50% rejected, if not more. Sometimes I can even backhand the coffin ramp if I hit it just right.

#1583 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

That plastic really made the game play a lot better. Mcclad really hooked me up!

I played some test games with the new plastic installed and the ball just flys around the coffin ramp now. I believe the plastic lid /cover helps a lot, by making the travel of the ball consistent, acting as a ball guide by keeping the ball lower as it makes the turn after getting by the lift ramp. Before installing the plastic, I noticed the ball would sometimes strike the bottom of the metal castle look ramp, slowing it down or sometimes even stopping and sending it backwards.

#1584 5 years ago

I brought my BSD home and the DMD started randomly cycling through screens. It is constant but does not affect gameplay. I ran a display test and got:

Page error B(1) 07

Anybody have any experience with this issue?

IMG_0296.jpgIMG_0296-261.jpgIMG_0298.jpg

#1585 5 years ago

First, did you check your ribbon cable connections in the backbox from CPU to DMD

#1586 5 years ago

I should have but didn't. I will and that may be a factor, we had to solder one of the Love Never Dies flasher connectors due to it snapping of the board when installing LEDs.

Thank you.

#1587 5 years ago
Quoted from gatordad:

Well hopefully your tech will find whats wrong but if you still had the board, look at the report and find the same colored wires on the cpu board, unhook that connector and power up the game, if the error goes away you have a something shorted at the playfield level if error is still present with that particular connector removed its at the board level.

Good tip! I'll definitely try that.

#1588 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

No more rejects when this plastic is installed

BSD_Battlesuit.JPG 63 KB

I usually think aftermarket toppers looks like crap, but that one is bad ass! Care to share where you got it and how you lit it up?

#1589 5 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

I usually think aftermarket toppers looks like crap, but that one is bad ass! Care to share where you got it and how you lit it up?

Well thank you sir
It's more of a DIY topper.
I used an model Horizon Dracula in Battlesuit (but more of a Thailand spin-off )
Like this : ebay.com link » Hor040 Bram Stokers Dracula In Armor

Assemble and paint.
Feeded two orange prewired LED's (6-16V) for his eyes. Thought it was too bright, and used fragments of a Cointaker frost dome to tone it down some notches.
Put a red-spot at the base, shining upwards and giving that shadow on the ceiling.
Leeched 12V through the vent holes from the powerboard.

The model kit comes with full size legs, but due to ceiling clearance i had to make the Luitenant Dan version
As compensation he holds a pinball

BSD_topper-Battle.JPG BSD_topper-Battle2.JPG
#1590 5 years ago

Do all BSD NOT have the coin interlock switch that cuts power to solenoids?

I don't get that annoying sound when I open my coin door.

#1591 5 years ago

I don't believe that came out till after BSD, perhaps 94 or so. I know the WPC security games have it.

#1592 5 years ago

Thanks Chet.

I was thinking it just was removed or something, but I think you're right.

There is just one button in the door, but I believe that's one for just the high scores, etc.

#1593 5 years ago

Actually, I think some do have it. Do you have extra wires hanging down from the start button? Mine does.

#1594 5 years ago

I think so. I'd have to recheck.

#1595 5 years ago

Could be a local/export thing. It's wired up, but exports didn't have them installed. Mine is a reimport from Germany. Yours?

#1596 5 years ago

Pretty sure it's a reimport. Not sure where.

So dumb question: when the pin comes back into the US, who modifies the electrical? Or is 220v (reimport voltage) the same as 120v in the US?

#1597 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Well thank you sir
It's more of a DIY topper.
I used an model Horizon Dracula in Battlesuit (but more of a Thailand spin-off )
Like this : ebay.com link ยป Hor040 Bram Stokers Dracula In Armor
Assemble and paint.
Feeded two orange prewired LED's (6-16V) for his eyes. Thought it was too bright, and used fragments of a Cointaker frost dome to tone it down some notches.
Put a red-spot at the base, shining upwards and giving that Shadow on the ceiling.
Leeched 12V through the vent holes from the powerboard.
The model kit comes with full size legs, but due to ceiling clearance i had to make the Luitenant Dan version
As compensation he holds a pinball

BSD_topper-Battle.JPG 31 KB

BSD_topper-Battle2.JPG 46 KB

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I'd love to do something similar to my BSD, but unfortunately I'll need to sell it pretty soon due to the Hobbit I just ordered. Possibly a stupid ass move. I guess I'll find out when Hobbit comes out.

#1598 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Pretty sure it's a reimport. Not sure where.
So dumb question: when the pin comes back into the US, who modifies the electrical? Or is 220v (reimport voltage) the same as 120v in the US?

Whoever did the reimporting, most likely. I does need to be converted.

#1599 5 years ago

Hey guys, i've been trying to pin down what i believe is a long opto problem on my machine. Im getting a lot of premature ends to balls during mist or mist+other mball, as in once I drain out of mball the ball just ends with one ball still left on the playfield.

Also, the mist gates pop open when a ball hovers through the middle of the playfield after I have already started mist mball.

The motor will also kick on sometimes while im in multiball,

from everything im reading these symptoms seem to be an issue with the switch 82, the long range opto, i found these 2 threads that would appear to have similar problems

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-weird-things-happening-or-not

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-mist-question

but no real great answers, most people seem to buy the replacement 24-opto board, but im wondering if there's anything I should try before buying the new board?

I was getting a "lamp interference" error during the magnet test during opto check 1, I have some blue frosted LEDs in the GI of the lower playfield, i removed 1 bulb that is under the right opto and now the magnet test runs clean but I am still getting balls that end prematurely. Should I try putting all the normal lights back in the GI?

#1600 5 years ago

If you're not still getting the lamp interference in test, it should be fine. I have all LED GI in mine. Which gate is opening during play, the left or right? Make sure you're checking the left pocket optos, too. Also, make sure all your trough switches are ok, and you have the "reverse flow" gate in the trough (or whatever you want to call it).

Also check this out:
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/game-specific-toys/200-mist-multiball

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