(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by LTG
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#6791 4 years ago

is there a way to reset the board maybe?

#6792 4 years ago

i updated firmware, but it's still acting the same.

also noticed that when powering on, the game will not do it's normal reset of the mistball. if i do it without the ribbon cable connected to the pinsound board, it does. the board is creating some kind of conflict.

#6793 4 years ago

i emailed pinsound.

#6795 4 years ago

anytime you turn the game on, it resets the mistball. it'll empty the ball from either side, the magnet will cycle back to the right if necessary and it'll launch another ball into the right gate. it stopped doing that with the pinsound board installed.

#6798 4 years ago

guys, my mist was fine for a month or two, since i got the thing. and like i said, it works fine, when i take the pinsound board out of the loop.

doesn't repopulate? that's weird. the only time i notice the game does that is when it disables the mistball feature, which doesn't explain why it works in the first place.

pinball: gotta love it.

#6803 4 years ago

is it normal that the usb stick gets hot? i've never had one that got this hot, or hot at all, honestly. maybe this sandisk just is a pos.

i'm trying the install right now with unzip'd folder, hazzard. ty.

#6804 4 years ago

it's just getting worse at this point. now i powered it on and it looked like all the coils locked on and i blew 3 fuses. uninstalling board. now i get to see if anything else blew up. fml.

#6805 4 years ago

everything works in test, but some weird stuff happens during game play now. going to try a factory reset...

#6806 4 years ago

i think i'm okay now. coffin lock ramp was going up without me hitting the shot 5 times, but i noticed you get one credited shot at the start of each ball. going to keep an eye on it though.

i'm going to let pinsound know which fuses i blew. this outta be good.

#6807 4 years ago

i played a decent amount last night. everything seems okay. i'm going to order a replacement game rom for sanity purposes.

anything else you guys can think of that i should test? i'm just totally paranoid at this point. i was getting the game really dialed in and was very happy with it before this. if i replace the rom, and all the coils/switches work, i should be good? i want to go over it with a fine tooth comb. i'm very anal with gameplay.

#6809 4 years ago

i put the original board back in and everything is fine. why is that?

#6815 4 years ago

my bad. f104, 105 and 112.

#6818 4 years ago

wouldn't a short blow fuses immediately? i didn't start blowing fuses until day 2 of troubleshooting.

#6820 4 years ago

yeah, i'm not saying i didn't mess something up. do i want to try, again? not really. not after all that. it sucks. just blew, what, $400...

#6826 4 years ago

not direct sunlight.

tbf, i wasn't really digging it anyway. i know that's sacrilege to say around here. i usually lean towards original parts and programming, unless it could pass as oem and/or is just a strict upgrade. not a big mod guy; except TRON . don't really like alt translites. what's that alternate game rom for DM? i didn't really like that either.

#6828 4 years ago

i would have been interested in running stock sound through it though, with the stereo rewire.

1 week later
#6867 4 years ago

well, my saga continues over here. i was in the backbox last night, preparing to install my new game rom. i started checking connectors, since everyone was saying i had a short possibly with the pinsound fun the other day. noticed several connectors, maybe more, that were real loose. i got all pushed in the whole way and fired up the game. did not swap roms, btw.

i immediately notice that all my inserts are brighter. i can even feel heat over the dracula letters. some bulbs weren't working at all, but they're not burnt out. i can swap lights on the same board underneath and the out is at the socket, not the bulb. i tried playing a game and i'm getting massive ghosting. it's not even ghosting, honestly. inserts are fully lit, coming on and off. game is basically unplayable, imo. they work fine in test, but the out sockets are still off.

so i'm going to try some different bulbs first. i have the cheapest bulbs i own in there currently: comet flattops. if i still get the same behavior from 5050's, do you think it would be worth trying some non-ghosting? i never bought any of those. if you have any other ideas, let me know, please.

one thing i do know, i'm probably going to run the other way the next time i see a game with replacement boards. maybe i'm overreacting, and there's a proverbial hump i'll get over at some point, but this has been a nightmare. definitely more than i thought i was getting into. hopefully i can get through the issues, because i'll get smoked if i try to get rid of it. i paid a lot. ugh.

#6869 4 years ago

i had very minor ghosting before last night, but i would happily play the game. like i said, it's unplayable in its current state. you have no idea of your progress of any game features.

it's like pushing in these connectors turned the brightness up on everything. only thing i can think of is i was getting 3-4 volts before from the loose connections, but now i'm getting the full 5, and the bulbs don't like it. the full on/off ghosting is basically all inserts. way more than one.

i have the same bulbs in my TOM. no issues. i've actually used these on almost every pin i've owned. no issues. a little ghosting on my sterns, but wpc's love em. i've never needed to install an ocd board.

all boards except the sound board are rottendog replacements. lights were fine before last night, except a very small ghost flicker. i'd say i've had it almost two months now. all i did was tighten connectors.

#6870 4 years ago

dupe.

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#6877 4 years ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

Controlled lamps are on the +18VDC circuit that strobes many times per second to get the voltage down to down to +6 volts. If a transistor has shorted on, a row or column of lamps will be turned on for a longer time, and hence be brighter.
What lamps are on all the time? Go into single lamp test mode and test each controlled lamp. What lamps don’t work? Do certain lamps light multiple lamps in the test mode? If so, which ones?

no controlled lamps are on all the time, but they're all brighter. what i was trying to explain when i said on/off, and it's just my theory, is that the level or intensity of the ghosting has risen proportionately to the aforementioned brightness increase. makes sense, right? i imagine they'd go hand in hand. this has turned my minor ghosting issue, which i didn't mind much, into inserts appearing to fully come on and off. example, you hit the start button, and the yellow dracula letter inserts will start coming on and off. again, i don't think they actually are, i think the ghosting intensity has increased to the point where they look like they're on. and in my world, the game is unplayable at that point.

i will get a list of which inserts don't work, btw. ty.

#6878 4 years ago

yeah, things are deteriorating.

i went into single bulb test. first thing, 01 unused, i have 7 inserts lighting: left skill, left coffin lock, video-v, dracula-c, rat hole, right inlane and the coffin manikin head bulb. i can give you more examples, if needed. same behavior through the entire list of bulbs basically.

also, test reported 2 balls missing. i found one in the top left popper, which isn't working anymore. bottom jet is out, too. so either i blew more fuses or i'm blowing transistors. fml...

#6881 4 years ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

I had that light intensity on my original afm. I had a short to a solenoid meaning the insert lights wire strand had somehow made contact with the wire of the solenoid. Super bright light show on all the time.

actually, this got me thinking. the bottom left popper power line came off almost right when i got this thing. i thought i'd be smart and pop the wire in through the inner hole on the coil base and tie it off temporarily. it worked. i forgot about it. never went back and fixed it correctly.

so i just pulled that off and soldered it to the outside lug. i powered up and all coils locked on like it did that one time with the pinsound board. i'm assuming that coil is just f'd at this point, right? i could pull that wire off and see where i'm at now?

#6882 4 years ago

i tried that q90 test and didn't get anything. actually i got nothing to any transistor i tried. are you sure that's how you test those?

#6885 4 years ago

wait, was i supposed to try that test while powered on?

what about that coil? disconnect that thing, right?

#6886 4 years ago

btw, i blew 104 and 105, again. 112 was fine this time.

#6887 4 years ago

didn't replace those fuses yet, but did disconnect that popper coil. now the only inserts that work are start, launch, rat hole, dracula a, mystery, mist multiball, castle jackbot. noticed some gi out in the backbox, too. hopefully i'm not just chasing my tail around here.

#6888 4 years ago

if anyone has an idea of where to start, i'd appreciate it. id prefer not to make things worse, if at all possible. thank you.

if this is going to be a complete pita to go through, i'll just outsource it. i have no problems paying someone for this kind of thing.

#6890 4 years ago

i imagine i screwed it up when i rigged that coil control/signal wire fix, no?

#6892 4 years ago

yeah, this is my second BSD. i know what you're talking about. behavior doesn't match that theory and they were fine for almost two months. oh well. i'll call in the pros. no biggy.

#6899 4 years ago

whoa.

2 months later
#7061 4 years ago

hopefully, i figured out my weird issues that seemed to start around the time i tried to add pinsound. i called in the big guns, jim from jt amusements. he was diagnosing for a while, had the power board out ready to start soldering some new components, then the idea of replacing the ribbon cable popped in his head. turns out the one i have from the cpu to the power board isn't even the right one. he popped a new little shorty in there and everything started working.

pretty sure someone on here suggested that and i was on that path, but just didn't get there. i ordered a new game rom and sound roms, sort of with that same idea of weird stuff happening that didn't make sense with normal troubleshooting. eh, oh well.

i think i wanna try the board again, but i just might do the factory sound package. sorry, i'm an old school guy; like the original stuff. my question is would the stereo conversion pinsound offers be beneficial with me only using the factory sounds?

#7063 4 years ago

ok, how about this? i'll put the remixes on there, too, then i can switch between them when i want. it just looks weird having all rottendog replacement boards, then a factory sound board. know what i'm saying?

maybe i'll mess with that tonight, if i get bored.

2 months later
#7204 4 years ago

i cut about a 1/4" piece off of a black post rubber on slid it on top of that metal stopper post.

1 week later
#7213 4 years ago
Quoted from wcbrandes:

sorry what black rubber post cover would that be that fits ? I would love to do this, much easier than taking apart the playfield to cut down the support post.

not a cover. talking about a regular post sleeve.

#7214 4 years ago

got my BSD working, again. rottendog mpu board and pinsound just ain't gonna work together. i still randomly get a high volt lockup when flipping power on. stock board works without issue. not a big deal; i prefer stock sound anyway. it would have been cool to upgrade to stereo, if possible. oh well.

now, more importantly, my long beam opto won't open in test mode. what's the quickest, most likely way to fix that? new board, optos, both? pinhome makes the replacement board, right? sorry; been awhile. ty.

#7219 4 years ago

i tried the remote control (module, as my wife says) trick, but still couldn't open that circuit. only when i mess with connectors on the board does it open; obviously when i pull the power to it. maybe i'll just try the new board. easiest thing to do. not the cheapest, but oh well. ty.

#7222 4 years ago

board ordered...

#7227 4 years ago

well, that was easy. popped my new board in just now; solid red power LED and solid green opto LED. went into test and the switch opened immediately when i put my hand in the beam. i think we're good. going to enable the magnet and see how it plays. tyvm.

#7233 4 years ago

the mistball will definitely stay on the left, if that's where it ends during gameplay. not sure about the castle locks, but that could be right, too.

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