gots a BSD wednesday night. having a mistball issue. sometimes i power it on, the game sets it up correctly; sometimes it doesn't. if you hit the mistball during gameplay, it won't repopulate the mistball gate and starts popping two balls out in the shooter lane. that makes sense, since the trough has an extra ball in it. how does the game keep track of that feature? optos?

does that run the whole process, populating an empty mist gate, etc.? i thought it just moved the magnet back and forth. guess i wasn't patient enough. surprise, surprise...

explain? i'm having gi issues, plan on replacing j120 and 121. i think those are the #s. what else you do?

gotcha.

LS (Lenc-Smith) is what you want to see, i thought.

if you guys are bored, help me over here, please:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mist-ball-gate-not-populating

yeah, you're right. my FT is an SP. that's what i was thinking.

my BSD is an LS, and it looks pretty nice, too. it does have a skid mark across the drac inserts, however. never seen anything like it before.

how did you guys install the proto sling covers? i'm guessing 1" female to male hex posts?

quickie q here:

one of my pops is out. doesn't fire in test. solder looks good. should i try re-soldering anyway?

volts are ~72 on both lugs. next is continuity back to the board?

hmm, which transistor is it?

right jet. looks like drive goes to j127-5. transister q52? am i reading that right?

might be a problem...

IMAG0274[1] (resized).jpg

bigd, stop laughing .

i do have continuity back to q52 at least.

could he redo my 24" opto board? i figure i need that one done, too. nothing visibly wrong with it, however.

all this will make me appreciate it more when it's working 100%. next time i know i need a flashlight. i couldn't see shit in that guy's basement.

pm sent. thanks, guys.

at least my golden tee still works (knock on wood).

hey, bud. started a seperate thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mist-ball-gate-not-populating

i think most of the double ball was the outhole kicker being seized up. i tore apart and cleaned: working better. mist ball is opto/board related, we believe.

own both here. theme is the main difference. BSD is more adult-ish and can scare some little kids. FT is totally family friendly. game play: two of the best games under $3k from the WPC era. similar flow and ball times. good game code and satisfying shots on both. theme, theme, theme really.

it's kind of part of the theme, but i didn't think about it right away, sound. fire up youtube and watch some gameplay vids. pinball arcade vids are the best i think. see which one you can listen to the longest.

FT does have a great topper, and you should definitely be paying less for one.

my guess is it was replaced with a newer board, maybe a DCS or WPC-S power board. probably fine.

gots mines in, too, and they all work!

IMAG0269[1] (resized).jpg

all natural white, except the coffin.

my daughter is 4 and she's been fine with it so far. got it about 2 weeks ago. i'm kind of surprised, actually.

prototype sling plastics.

http://www.pinballdecals.com/Images/PartsbyGamePictures/Pic689.png

mine should arrive monday .

i was really bored.

riodrac (resized).jpg

not sure why they thought they needed to keep it powered on during the import process.

so i replaced both resistors and they cooked again, as soon as i turned it on.

this was the pop bumper not working issue where r88 and 89 were melted.

i'll start a thread in tech. thanks, guys.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-pop-out-burning-resistors#post-3343892

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http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/3072/Williams_1993_Bram_Stoker_s_Dracula_English_Manual.pdf

sounds like ball time, not game. i would have guessed it's ball save time, but i see that's a.2.03. who knows.

default works for me.

oursler overload, if that's even possible.

my buddy has a Space Shuttle. barry doesn't suck.

just installed my pinball pro 3-piece kit. feel the bass! too much actually. had to turn it down. glass still rattles on the lowest setting on the sub control dial. pretty impressive without it being powered.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

try a ribbon cable from another pin.

remove the opto "guide" in front of the opto receiver on the left-hand side. looks like an opto blank, if that makes sense.

i always check the original flyer for stuff like that:

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=4583&zoom=1

i just noticed the prototype sling covers on the flyer. that's pretty cool.

i have them, too. i meant that they were on the promo flyer.

i'm assuming this:
http://pinballbulbs.com/products/bram-stokers-dracula-ultimate-led-lighting-kit

if i bought a BSD with a colordmd, i doubt i would swap it out. i could see myself buying one if i need a new dmd, maybe. not a mod for me (just for fun), but if you want one, buy one. i'm not going to stick my nose up in the air at you. actually, i guess it could be the other way around .

the BSD hype did get me looking into the mod a little bit more than usual. i'll admit, this hi-res color SM vid got me excited:

i've bought speaker kits if i needed a new main cabinet speaker. that's been my most expensive mod to date, i believe.

not sure about that square piece, but the other goes over the beginning of the inner loop, behind the coffin. you need spacers, too, or you'll get ball jams.

my mist ball stopped working after led's. had to remove the beam "shield" in front of the receiver on the left-hand side. that thing that looks like an opto blank.

comet flat-tops. permanently removed the beam guide thingy. led's still installed and mist ball is working 100%.

knock on wood.

you are really handcuffing yourself with options to your collection with that mentality, but you can obviously have that opinion. i say have a little bit of everything. your collection isn't just for you. it's for everybody that visits and plays pinball, too, unless you don't let other people play them...

that's what he used the business card for. credit card has a better thickness. guess u could double-up on the business card. should be about right.

have a multimeter? i think testing resistance on the coil and volts at the lugs would be worth it. just guessing, but that's what you gotta do sometimes.

was the coil sleeve stuck in the right side coil or did it slide out fairly easy? sometimes coils will cook over time and the inner cylinder will shrink, causing more friction than you want.

agreed. give it a break for a few days.

i'm having a weak flipper issue on a JD i just got. flipper parts look almost new. maybe i need an opto board, too.

already has collection updated .

i think i'm gonna fart around with some colored gi. you guys make me jealous with your pics. i figure i could easily match the blue and purple plastics with those colors and run red under the pops and top lane guides. of course, then there's the backbox... i'm also looking into upgrading my rubbers with some colored ones, since mine are showing some age. i'm starting with blue on the flippers.

this seems like a never-ending quest of tweaking, so i hope i'm up for it. i don't want it to wear me out to the point where i'm waving the white flag. i do hit the wall of frustration sometimes, but i think BSD is worth it. we'll see.

remove the opto blank in front the of the receiver on the left side. fixed my issues.

you read my mind.

damn.

i will say, when you get your BSD working 100%, you'll quickly forget about all the problems you had.

why are we looking at flipper board? i'd like to tag along.

no, he asked you to look at it. i just don't know why. thought we had an opto issue.

is there a local board guy you could have make a house call?

are there bugs in the L1 code with the game losing track of balls or is it just nature of the beast with BSD? there's been a few times where i have two or three multis going and i feel like it'll go to the next ball while i have other balls in play. there's a ball shooting in the shooter lane and the 3 heads skill shot starts flashing. what's up with that?

i did some cleaning up of my cabinet tonight. took a little flathead screwdriver and scratched some dirt and boogers off of it. i also need to get off the old glue from the serial number sticker that is missing under the coin door. that'll take some elbow grease.

then i did it, i ordered some ice blue, purple and red led's to play around with for some colored gi. that should be fun. my daughter is excited. i put on my blue flipper superbands, too. look sweet as hell. i'll be replacing everything pretty soon, after seeing those on there. damn you, BSD!

cometpinball.com. i bought an ocd board for the RBION i'm selling (plug). i threw in some colored single smd frosted bulbs for BSD. it was the cheapest bulb, i think, where i could pick ice blue and purple was in stock. up to this point, i've only bought frosted natural white flattops. i'm splurging .

i hate to ask this, because i know it can be an annoying topic, but what about the backbox? i feel like color matching is always tough, but it doesn't look too difficult on this one. i was also thinking of just switching to all warm white. the natural white waters down the reds and oranges pretty bad. that would be the easiest thing to try.

superbands:
IMAG0463[1] (resized).jpg
IMAG0464[1] (resized).jpg
can't wait to do the rest. going to try to match plastic color throughout, hopefully with my gi.

thanks, brah.

since they sell them on their site pushing the titles and not the display in a generic way, yeah, i'd say they should come pre-loaded.

my rat vuk started hitting the top of my right sling. i adjusted the position of the assembly in the hole; i slide the back max right. guess i could move the front max left. just kinda weird that it would go weak all of a sudden.

anybody?

finally took the colored gi plunge.
IMAG0474[1] (resized).jpg

yep, comet 1smd frosted. ice blue, purple, red. i need one more purple under the coffin and i need to get the red in under the left ramp. oh, the right pop bulb, too. looks way more natural in person. colors bleed out very nice. camera on my phone stinks.

not sure if i want ice blue bottom or darker, normal blue.

same. i've never really noticed much of anything with any of my wpc's, even with the cheap comet bulbs. just turn the power save setting off in the adjustments. now my RBION is a different story.

damn, you are anal .

yeah, i've just used flat-tops so far so not very noticeable, if at all. i had entry level cointakers on my Sorcerer. i didn't notice anything on that either. we all have our pet peeves.

x2

tonight, i started replacing all rubbers on my BSD with superbands. holy shit; i'm going to break something. they are so hard to get on. a simple 5/16" on a star post is almost impossible. maybe i'll try titans next time...

i got about halfway and quit. i'll finish tomorrow maybe. my fingers hurt.

i also don't understand the flatside on the smaller ones. sometimes it'll face down; sometimes it'll face in. it's hard enough to get them on, let alone get that to go the right way. is that suppose to make them easier to get on, because it doesn't. makes them impossible to get off, i'd imagine. i know the mini posts aren't coming off.

extra ball at 200k?! million, you mean?

got an update on my superband install aches and pains. i used a little naphtha to lube the rings before installing. i think it helped a little. i also figured out the correct technique finally. i was trying to push the 5/16" star post rings on whole, but you need to start at one point then go around the circumference like you would a bowl or cup lid. once i got that down, it made it way easier. almost done now.

oh, and i found a ball, back right corner, underneath the red finger pointing plastic. a previous owner must have lost a ball, couldn't find it, so just threw another one in. kinda funny.

i knew my original rubbers were old. they looked like crap. i did not, however, think about the performance benefits of replacing them. i was doing it more for cosmetics. man, it's like a new game. so much more bounce. the ball just won't quit.

i'm checking out pinballpt inside cabinet decals. wondering how hard the install would be. would i have to remove the playfield?

i always thought water was a no-no on a pin, since it's wood.

okay, so it's not an all-encompassing no-no. yeah, that would seem to make it a lot easier. thanks, guy.

~$2500.

i always prefer matching part #'s with the manual. i've never heard of downsizing coils on BSD.

i like working from the topside, when possible. yeah, you have to remove that subway to get to the screws for those switches. if you have to go that way, remember to put the subway back in on top of the vuk landing. i've gotten balls stuck there, since i botched the reinstall.

even better.

if you want the trade, then do it. sounds fine to me.

after i got all the kinks worked out, it quickly became my favorite of what i've owned so far. you'll love it.

remove the opto blank in front of the receiver on the left-hand side. it fixed mine and have heard of that fixing others.

at that point, i'd be afraid to play it.

yeah, i have no explanation for your issue.

left-hand side. it would look like you have two opto receivers there. the one in front is just a blank; nothing in it. if you see two empty screw holes in the playfield there, it's been removed already.

i'm still waiting for your decals .

i've got rat hole, mystery hole, both inlanes and shooter lane. i am a freak, however, when it comes to cliffys.

is that different than coffin jackpot?

i guess the castle is where you stake his hoochies, huh? i go for coffin, stake drac a few times and kill him.

wish the red was darker.

i have the some things are louder than others "issue". had the same on my HS2. i think i'm on volume 11. if i go up to 12, it evens it out (everything loud). i always figured it was pre-DCS crappy sound programming.

bend it up a lot. don't be nervous. bend it at the factory bend closest to the actuator, too. i use needle-nose pliers.

opinions?
IMAG0548[1] (resized).jpg
IMAG0551[1] (resized).jpg
first is what i had in it, flat-top frosted natural whites. second is single smb frosted sunlights. i wanted brighter and i wanted to bring the red and orange back out in it. now that i did it, not sure i like it. definitely lost some blue.

i'll try a mix of natties and warms and see how that goes. i may get to the point with the colormatching, but you'll have to drag me, kicking and screaming.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/fire.htm

so, yeah...

you just went next level.

i just noticed in attract mode the programmers blinked the backbox gi in and out for that effect. i don't think you'd get the best payoff for putting those back there. that is unfortunate.