Bram Stoker's Dracula
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There's a BSD owner's club? whoo! I'm in!
The Castle opto is the Altar/Rats hole - I just had my transmitter there go out.
Pretty sure the coffin has an opto in the same place, just above the coil.
I'll have to look for these plastic slide rails, because I don't remember seeing those.
2 things. Finally got to 30 Millions today for the first time!! Was cruising along and then... I tilted out of it. 
Actual question. On some screens I appear to have a credit dot, and others I don't. I know my top left drop switch is sketchy, but that usually causes a full-on dot with a Test Report. I do not get a Test Report right now. I'm pretty sure it was always clean before.
IMAG0327.jpg
IMAG0328.jpgSo I started tearing down the playfield today to shop my Drac and look what I found! How in the world did that get there??
Also, I remember someone asking about the lengths of the posts for the coffin setup. There are 4 posts that have very close lengths. Anyone still interested in that information while I have it apart?
IMAG0391.jpgNext question! What in the world are these wires for? I've noticed them before, and they've never been hooked up. I'd love to use them as my connection into the GI circuit for lighted flipper buttons. I'm pretty sure they're green/black and white/red, but I'm partially color blind, soo....
Anyway, they're in the same bundle as the ones for the start button. Potentially important info - my machine is a re-import.
Thanks
edit: you can't see because my hand is in the way, but they both have push connectors on the end.
Quoted from joe2012:they go on the start button. they are for the light .look at the switch there is two spade connection blades on the sides. joe
My start button already has 4 wires on it and the light works fine.
Quoted from shock_me:Those wires are for the door audits switch I believe. I don't see it on your door in that picture though. Maybe it was removed, mine was missing too.
Ok, I don't even know what that is. Like an audit menu entry for when the door is opened/closed?
Quoted from Kcpinballfan:Audit for amount of plays I assume
Ahh... I'm pretty sure my machine does not count plays. Anywhere I can look for more info on replacing that switch? I never noticed a bracket with nothing attached or anything like that.
Thanks for the newb help.
Quoted from joe2012:hi aobrien5,i looked on my game those wires connect to the coin door interlock switch. joe
Thanks Joe, it looks like I may be missing that, too.
Quoted from TaylorVA:for lighting up the flipper buttons you can just use coin door interface board. You can easily piggy back onto the existing IDC or make a connector to plug into one of the non used pins if the pins are on the board. This is how I have always done it.
Taylor, you're saying to just punch a second wire down directly on top of the wires going to the coin door lights? That would certainly make it easy.
Thanks
You're lucky, you've just got a broken right gate, which is available. The left gate is not available.
Quoted from MrSanRamon:Most gates are not that difficult to make out of flat stock and wire.
Robert
That's true, as long as you have something to compare it to. Took me lots of trial and error to fabricate my own left gate.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/index.htm
The ones from www.southjerseypinball.com?
Quoted from Netsepp:Thank you, on pinballrebel there are much good cards, but not this one
Mike
It looks like these to me: http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/bsdset.zip
Quoted from ModCity:This shop job is complicated enough as it is, I don't need the manual throwing curve balls at me too!
Be careful, there are several things in the manual that are not accurate. Mislabeled part numbers, missing diagram indicators for lights, etc.
Quoted from TaylorVA:do you have LEDs?
Yes I do
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Once I'm done with mine, I'll have the original Sun Process playfield for sale along with a bunch of parts.
Can I have your left mist gate wire?
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:I am looking at one of these. What would one be worth with a good playfield (needs cleaning and shop job) broken middle plastic and one broken sling plastic, but trashed cab. The cab is faded with dings on the sides and the front of the cab has major damage from an operators lock down bar. What would it be worth? Keep in mind I live in Canada and we pay a big premium for pins up here. Thanks.
Edit: A professional pinball advisor up here told me $1600 - $1800, I trust he is correct just seeing what the world thinks
If the cab is that trashed and everything else workse, he's probably about right.
Quoted from Snowyetti:Here it is done mostly LEDs backbox as well went with blue ,purple ,red,couple yellow fresh rubs and a good tear down cleaning well worth it plays like a new game
Looks good! Does your backbox look that washed out in real life, or is that just the pictures? That's the only place without LEDs on my machine.
Quoted from Raven2012:Can anyone help me what to do with those error messages..
The castle opto's are the ones on the wireform where the Castle Lock balls sit. All three of them being out sounds like a wiring issue. Make sure they're plugged in. I'm not sure which is the opto TL popper, but that's most likely your rats hole or the return from the mystery hole.
If you don't see a wiring problem, point your cell phone camera at the opto led in the white housing for whatever you can access. If the transmitter is working, you'll be able to see the purple light in your camera.
Quoted from Raven2012:Just checked the wiring i don't see any problems so far, the opto's are those little bulbs that detects the balls right, one is in a black housing the orher in a white ? I checked all of them with my iPhone camera and i don't see a purple light nowhere in the opto's.
Could all of them be broken ?!..
Could be possible i think because when i play a game he does not recognize a castle lock either.. also when in the opto popper (that's the one on the left where the ball comes when video mode is finished) he does not recognize it..
Guess i'll the pinball shops for opto's..
Yes, the white one is the emitter, and the black one is the receiver. Check the opto in your right mist pocket just to see what I'm talking about. That one you can see without taking anything apart. Sure, it's possible they're all bad, but it seems odd that all three of those Castle lock ones are out.
When I had this problem, the emitter led was loose on the board, so I could just wiggle it around in the housing to make the light go on and off. The replacement wasn't too expensive, but it's nice to know you're replacing the right thing the first time.
Quoted from MXV:I think it means TOP LEFT popper - the one on the left side below the left ramp. I forget if they call it the celler but it is where Renfield says "master you promised me eternal life" when the ball goes in there.
Oh, yes, that's the one I was forgetting. I believe it's called the Asylum.
Quoted from RoberAstur:A picture is worth a thousand words ...
Is that target supposed to be yellow? mine is black.
Quoted from little-italy:Hey I'm putting on those sling plastics with the actors faces on them and does anyone know what spacers I need to get the plastics off the regular sling thanks and who sells them
should be able to use just about anything. How far off do you want them? 3/4"?
Quoted from RoberAstur:Mine is black too ...
That image does not belong to my BSD, found on the internet.
I guess that is what you need mate.
kudos to your google-fu if you found that online. haha
I'm just stupid about things being factory (or better if modded), not hating on stuff that isn't. IOW, I would've had to buy a yellow one if it was supposed to be that color! Working is ok, but I replaced my fully functional launch button with the correct one for the machine because it was the wrong color.
New Mist ball problem. I just got done shopping my machine, and now the right gate doesn't open far enough to allow the ball out most of the time. Usually the ball gets hung up on the gate and just sits there. If I help the gate open further during activation, everything works fine. I didn't disassemble this mech when shopping it, but I did take the solenoid apart to clean it after this started happening. I did have to take the gate off so I could remove the plastics, but I never unhooked it from the arm.
Help?
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Make sure the bracket the coil is mounted on is straight up and down. It can easily get bent toward the center of the playfield which will not allow the gate to open far enough. Take off the building above it and it'll be easy to tell.
Yup, that did it. Thanks so much! I never would have tried something like that!
Quoted from Netsepp:Hello BSD Fans,
i plan to make red illuminated flipper buttons on my BSD. So i have to change to illuminated arcade buttons with integrated microswitch. can anyone tell me wich wires i have to use for the mechanical microswitch ?
on the opto boards i have the following wires:
Sounds like you're going about it the hard way. Take a look at this:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418
Just finished my shop job and lighted flipper installation. Looks awesome!
Unfortunately I also found that I apparently managed to break the "gate-runway wire" in the ball trough. This is the little one way gate that prevents the ball from bouncing back into the outhole. Would anyone be able to post a picture of this so I know how to reinstall a new one?
Thank you!
Quoted from chadderack:Just don't light video mode while a multiball is going, or you'll lose your multiball This happened to me this week. Seems to me video mode should be disabled while a multiball is going.
Another weirdity.... I've had the mist ball gather a partner and BOTH end up in the mist hole ... twice now. Probably happens a lot.
Video mode should disable during multiball - mine does. Taylor, usually, I don't get the Mist mb when that happens, and just video mode - such a bummer.
Also, yes, partnering the mist ball is another huge bummer. Sometimes you get lucky and the other one falls off when the magnet turns off, other times you gotta shake it pretty hard!
Quoted from jimbeam42:I need to make a left mist gate, any recommendations on wire thickness? Was going to use stainless steel rod. Thanks
good luck
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-making-new-bsd-left-mist-gate
Quoted from 27dnast:I had posted this in a separate thread...but am still looking for some brainstorming. My BSD has a ghost in the machine, so to speak:
Once every 40 games or so, if a ball hits the center or left target on the stand-up bank straight up the middle, the game will start randomly (and quickly) handing out rewards (such as a coffin ramp hit, a rat hole hit, video lane hit... sometimes the dungeon (upper left scoop) hit...). Then, just as quickly as it started, it stops and the game goes back to normal play.
I've had the glass off...can't get it to recreate. Put it in switch test and banged around... nothing. I've also looked under the play field...can't seem to find any loose wires or shorts.
Anyone have any thoughts?
All of those awards are opto hits, except the coffin ramp, unless it's the coffin hole opto that's causing it and the game is smart enough to detect that as a malfunctioning ramp lift and award the ramp instead of the lock.
Look into everything that controls the optos. Seems like it would be a board issue since it's not related to a single opto.
Quoted from Prefect:Does anyone else have problems with their left gate.
If the wire gate itself is not original, make sure it wasn't replaced with something that has become magnetized.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Anyone else have metal playfield side rails on their game? The BSD I'm restoring is the second one I've seen with them.
The third and fourth pic show the NOS playfield that will be going in my game. It had wood ones on it so I made new ones and installed them not knowing my game had metal ones. The wood ones will be replaced.
I've restored a number of WH2O's and only had one that had the metal ones.
Hm, mine are metal. Had no idea there were wood ones.
Quoted from Netsepp:i have another question,have anyone a pic how the left building on playfield is mounted ? think at my BSD there are missing parts for mount the building with the two screws. so i only can place the building loose, and sometimes it happens if the ball is ejected the ball is thrown back the rail.Mike
Unfortunately I don't have a good picture of it installed but these are the parts and where they go.
IMAG0466.jpgQuoted from Netsepp:Thank you aobrien! Do you know the size of the spacers ?
Mike
Unfortunately I don't. Next time I have it open, I'll measure them for you, though. Assuming nobody finds them first.
Quoted from Netsepp:i have another question,
have anyone a pic how the left building on playfield is mounted ? think at my BSD there are missing parts for mount the building with the two screws. so i only can place the building loose, and sometimes it happens if the ball is ejected the ball is thrown back the rail.
Mike
Took a while but I finally took a look. The lower post is 2.5" and the upper is 3.5".
Quoted from flipperilaakso:I really wish I had read this thread before I tore down my Dracula. I'm usually pretty anal about measuring everything really carefully, but those 4 post were so close that they fooled me to believe that they are all the same height when I roughly measured them on the playfield. Only noticed the slight difference after they were out and of course at this point I didn't know anymore which was from which place. So YES I would be interested in this information and I think it should be documented in this wonderful thread. Im aware you already put your BSD back together but I hope you have the info still (fingers crossed).
Sorry, I never actually took the measurements because I didn't remove the posts. I have to get back into my machine soon, though. I wasn't planning on going into the coffin, but do you know how much needs to come off to get to the posts enough to measure them?
Quoted from Netsepp:WOW that looks great !
The blue sky is only made with blue LED's ?? Do you use normal led or superbright LEDs ?
Mike
Actually the blue sky is done with blues and cool whites and I used cointaker frosted LEDs so that it wasn't too bright and blow everything out. When I put blues in the ones directly behind a large section of Dracula letter it turned it purple, so there are also reds up in that area.
Quoted from Wickedbass:Does anyone have a link to say a photobucket or flickr where they stored their pics during a tear down i could look at.
No, but if you need something specific I may have it.
Quoted from Prefect:I followed up a 430 million point game with one where I didn't even break 5 million and that's with regular flippers.
Put up my best score yesterday. 1.9b with 39 loops with lightning flippers. It was awesome.
Quoted from kpull:Yep. It's only a matter of time until Dracula gets a friend!
Agreed. It's like a sickness...
Would also like to see a pic of the topper when you get it!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Looking at a brams Sunday
What things should I be focusing on?
Where the ball drops from the shooter lane
Quoted from ghostbc:Would Lefkoff be drilling his own metal, I think not . I am Kevin from Lyons Classic PInball.
Do all BSD's have the metal hammerlite side rails ? I have only seen this on a friends CFBL.
They do not all have them and they are not interchangeable. Someone else recently discovered this in another thread.
Quoted from kpull:Does this help?
Yup, perfect. Thanks!
Edit: Hell, I don't even have a bracket or holes where the bracket would mount... Hrm.
Quoted from n0s4atu:Well, couldn't tell when it was still in place, but pulling it out, it became pretty obvious there was a problem.
Found the diode laying inside the cab in the sub.
New one should be arriving tomorrow. Then I get to see how my soldering skills are these days. I've only ever really done wire to wire soldering for car stereos and electronics.
well, that was easy! You got the diode+board, not just the diode? surface mount soldering can be a pain, especially with two hands. Hopefully someone has some tips (other than making your wife hold the stuff).
Quoted from Thor-NL:Check the diode board below the playfield.
You mean opto board? Check for under playfield fuses, too.
Quoted from Tyson1868:In the pops they are 259 which I have not found anywhere else does that sound right?
That does not sound right. I think they should be standard 555s.
Quoted from SkeebWilcox:I had Castle Lock started for the third time and NO BALLS WERE SPIT OUT!
I was playing last night and during a decent game, I finally locked my 3rd ball to start castle aaaaand nothing. Just locked up and eventually rebooted. Played a couple more games to see if it was just a fluke and just wound up empty and went to bed... I'll have to do it again tonight to make sure it's all ok.
Quoted from mcclad:I just got my BSD working and I am in the prcess of figuring out the bazillion things that were wrong with the game. One thing that I noticed is that I can lock three balls in the coffin to start coffin multi ball and when it starts I only have one ball. I can start to spell DRACULA to get the jackpot but I am only doing it with one ball. Any ideas on what could be wrong? Since I have never really played a perfectly working machine before, I do not know how things are supposed to work during a game.
What should happen is if the other 2 balls are in the trough, it should eject and launch them. If they are locked in the castle locks, it should release and launch them. Check out those switches to make sure the game knows where the balls are. Also that you have 4 in the machine, as mentioned.
Quoted from Tyson1868:Is it pinball life that making new ramps?
No. Pinball, Inc.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/time-to-retire-from-pinball-inc-ramp-manufacturing-its-been-a-blast/page/3
Quoted from Tyson1868:Quick question, I installed three LED flex lights under the Dracula figure which I assume are supposed to point up to illuminate the figure or does the middle one just point up while the other two face the coffin? The amount of room for each space makes one question the direction.
That's actually a good question. Mine are all pointing up, but the one in the face seems like its the only one you can see.
Quoted from n0s4atu:Hmm, that empty cut out looks suspiciously like it could have once held an outlet. I know my game was a reimport from Europe, could that be why it's gone?
Haha, yup. Looks very familiar. Just like my reimport. Not too tough to install a new one. There was a thread about it not long ago.
Quoted from Thor-NL:I have frosted purple CoinTakers. Doesn't wash out the decal print but acentuates it, imho
That's a good idea. I have purple in that area too, but the purple flex did wash it out, so I put yellow flex in there.
Quoted from Tyson1868:Does anything need to come off before I remove the left ramp?
I think the left wireform. You just have to very carefully lift the ramp entrance. Its difficult to reach the back bulb. Hopefully you have long fingers.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Which LEDS are you guys using in the GI on the playfield? Ultrabrights? Cool?
Cointaker retro. Cool on the lower, red in upper right, purple in upper left.
Quoted from CptAwesomest:I found that super bands really help the brutality of this game. its still brutal, but i found my score doubling since i put them on.
I have to agree here. Same experience.
Quoted from yoshootme:mine is possessed! as the ball goes to the inlane ,an apparition pulls it into the outlane, EVERY TIME!!!! wth!
Does it make you feel like a blundering novice?
Quoted from Tyson1868:I posted earlier where the left bank, pops, and middle bank GI are out after installing LED's. The flashers in the middle of each bank flash as the castle lock is lit. Fuse 106 (12 A) is fine. Must be a wire loose or cold solder??
If you shorted something when installing the LEDs and blew the fuse, you may have blown all the bulbs. I did the same thing in the same location. Move one of the LEDs to another location to make sure it's not the bulb.
Quoted from Tyson1868:I have tried that as well. I did not blow the fuse and the original 106 12A still tests fine with MM. For a short time after the LED install that section worked fine.
Sounds like a loose wire then. Find the last bulb on the strand and start tracing. Luckily that's a pretty small set of bulbs.
Quoted from skywelker:Ok I was able to give it another try today on my lunch break. I left the game unplugged and untouched since I posted last night. I started it up and the coffin multiball was working! So I tried the castle multiball, also working! I think the coffin opto might be intermittent as i hear a solenoid firing randomly at times. I have never owned a game with optos, do they require maintenance/cleaning? Or is this one of those things you just leave alone if it's working?
Thanks in advance. Side note: When you can play this game it is fun as hell!
Mostly maintenance free, but you should clean them when you're in the area cleaning other things. Qtip with alcohol on each diode.
Quoted from CptAwesomest:So the black plastic shroud on the backside of the coffin. It has a long screw from the top. What does this screw thread into? Am i missing a nut that goes in between the coffin cover plastic and the metal bracket for the above coffin blue lights? I dug through the manual and found no reference.
pretty sure there's supposed to be a standoff and a very short screw.
Quoted from rudygulp42:Unfortunately I am experiencing three minor issues: Left Magnet error (which is not affecting play), the top left lane light is unlit (Not the bulb, i swapped it out) and Never of Love Never Dies flasher is out. The last one is the most heart breaking because my wife and I bought the machine in lieu of a wedding party. Now love dies and we feel it is a bad omen.
magnet: check the switch on the far left of where the magnet runs, it would tell the motor when to stop by closing the switch when it bumps into it.
bulb: check to make sure the socket or lug don't spin around easily, may need a new socket.
LND: all three flashers or just one? changed bulbs, checked connection?
Quoted from rudygulp42:Above or below the playfield for the magnet?
below
Quoted from rudygulp42:ulb: The bulbs for the lanes were all in correctly, and i swapped the left and right to see if it was just a simple bad bulb. Might be a loose connection, as apparently it is now flashing irregularly.
sounds like a bad socket
Quoted from rudygulp42:LND: Just the Never. I would have checked it a bit closer but I did not know how to access the back of the panel.
probably just a bulb
Quoted from Blackbeard:1. Everytime I turn bsd on, a ball search goes off and the magnets goes across the pf and reloads. Sometimes it goes half way, drops the ball, and continues on.. then reloading the ball. Normal?
It shouldn't do a full ball search, but it will run the magnet and sometimes reload the mist pocket on the right. However, if it's carrying the ball half-way across and dropping it, that's probably a mist opto problem. How does it run in magnet test?
Quoted from Blackbeard:2. Won't completing the top 3 rollovers light the "2x" light? When I complete the rollovers, the DMD says "2X", but the light doesn't light. I know the light works as I've tested it in diagnostics.
The 2x light is your jackpot multiplier. It lights when you have two multi-balls going. 3x for 3.
Quoted from Blackbeard:I know there is an adjustment A2 44 "Game over unlock" that addresses balls being ejected at different times.
That's referring to emptying castle locks after the game. On power up, if it's working properly, it will simply open the right gate and the mist ball will fall out, it won't carry it halfway across. When you run the magnet test, let it run through several times.
Quoted from skywelker:I think this is normal behavior if the mist ball is on the left side during startup.
Yes, I agree.
The coffin ramp has 2 solenoids associated with it. The main coil that lifts it and a secondary little coil that holds it up. Check the little coil. It definitely sounds like you fried something but I wouldn't know what. Any help going through each coil and noting which ones don't work? Maybe a particular transistor that drives several coils got blown?
Quoted from mcclad:For once, and just ONCE, I would like to have a pinball machine work perfectly from day one untill the day I die.
Sounds like you need to invest in The Pinball Arcade. 
Quoted from CptAwesomest:So over the weekend I was doing some work on my BSD and prepping to order some LEDS. (I also added the BriteButtons RED LED flipper buttons on and they look really nice). I noticed that the top right behind the playfield flasher wasn't working nor was the 2 under the coffin. Neither are getting power in the Sol/fash test (17), but it appears the backbox part function of this Sol no 17 is the red Dracula flasher, which is working fine. My game came sans manual and i've been going through the one online, but wanted to see if anyone had some ideas?
Did you try just swapping bulbs and wriggling the connector? For me, the one in the backboard under the red silhouette of Dracula was loose and I needed to reflow the solder on the twist socket.
Quoted from n0s4atu:Suggestions? Is this a question of needing a new set of the sound chips? Game still plays great, but I miss the music, callouts, etc.
Can't help with this one, haven't had sound problems.... yet...
I'd start a new thread.
Quoted from CptAwesomest:I think the next step in trace the wires and see if anything is glaringly wrong.
That's where I would go. Also easy to test the transistor if you can get to it.
Does #1 missing cause rejects in the form of airballs? that's the only thing that would make sense.
Bryan Kelly has a full set of plastics coming out soon (we hope). That may be your best to replace those two (and probably your other cracked/broken ones, too).
Quoted from Tyson1868:Any news on the ramps from Pinballinc?
No. I expect you have months to go.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Pretty sure it's a reimport. Not sure where.
So dumb question: when the pin comes back into the US, who modifies the electrical? Or is 220v (reimport voltage) the same as 120v in the US?
Whoever did the reimporting, most likely. I does need to be converted.
If you're not still getting the lamp interference in test, it should be fine. I have all LED GI in mine. Which gate is opening during play, the left or right? Make sure you're checking the left pocket optos, too. Also, make sure all your trough switches are ok, and you have the "reverse flow" gate in the trough (or whatever you want to call it).
Also check this out:
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/game-specific-toys/200-mist-multiball
Quoted from Blackbeard:i'd like to use an extra plastic over that bottom pop so it matches the other two.
Huh? You mean the circular one in the middle of that picture with the graphic on it?
1 - it probably won't fit because the coffin wireform sits right on top of the bottom pop
2 - the right pop is completely hidden so I don't know what you mean by "matches the other two" because they're all three essentially different.
oh, so you just mean matching in terms of 'covered by a plastic.' Gotcha. Well, like I said, I don't think you'd be able to put a plastic over the lower pop. My cover actually has a little divot in the top where the wireform sits, so there simply wouldn't be enough room.
Interestingly, this pic on ipdb is missing the plastic covering the right pop. 
http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=13263
Nope, sorry. Should look like this: http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=12464
Obviously red is stock.
Quoted from terryb:That should do it. Also make sure a plastic, bracket etc. is not loose and is partially blocking the beam.
Good point! At one point my home-made repro left wire gate would sit right in the middle of the beam and cause all kinds of problems!
That's actually a really good question. They do not open at the same time and I don't believe there is a switch with the magnet/motor under the playfield that triggers it. Perhaps it is time based alone. From the time the magnet leaves the right pocket, if the ball is still blocking the long opto, it opens after x seconds?
It would obviously then close when the ball blocks the left opto or when it is no longer blocking the long opto.
Quoted from phishrace:There are microswitches under the playfield on each side. When the magnet assembly gets to either side, it pushes those switches closed. They are shown in the switch matrix as Magnet Left and Magnet Right. I believe those switches open the gates, shut off magnet power and the power to the motor that moves the magnet.
Those switches don't trigger the gate, they just trigger the Magnet Left/Right and stop the motor. If that also opened the gate, then the ball wouldn't make it into the pocket.
Quoted from kporter946286:I have done some more research and I really think the I.C. 555 timer is the chip on the 24 opto board that sense how far the ball is away and opens the left gate. Can someone confirm if my guess is correct. Its like a $5 dollar chip so that would be a cheap fix.
Ok so the opto board schematic is actually in the regular manual that you can get on ipdb on page 3-24.
The timer is associated with a switch we've been forgetting - Ball on Magnet (82).
The solenoid itself on the fliptronics board is wired just like all the others (on q7). I don't see how it can't be related to that timer circuit.
1401925716040.jpgQuoted from kporter946286:@aobrien I am not quit sure I understand ur post. Are u saying the IC 555 controls the ball on magnet switch and I should replace that chip or are u saying just the ball on magnet switch needs adjusted/replaced
The 555 is part of the Ball on Magnet circuit. I suspect it is what you're looking for, and the schematic should let you test it to see if the chip is bad. Does it have Continuity where it should? Ground where it should?
Quoted from rudygulp42:This may also be related the ball save playing the animation / sound but not giving a ball save.
This just happens sometimes. It's a known bug.
Quoted from rudygulp42:Also, when the mystery award gives Video mode Lit, the machine should drop the back target, correct?
No, it has no way to do that automatically. Yeah, it's a little counterintuitive.
Quoted from kporter946286:If when video mode is lit and the drop target is still up and you hit it that would mean you would have to make another shot up there to start video mode?
That's correct. The drop target is always supposed to reset unless video mode is lit. Typically, getting the last letter in video manually will drop the target and it will stay down. If you barely make the loop and it doesn't make it around to the target, you'll be in the same situation - knock the target down before being able to start it. Video mode will only start once it drops in the hole.
Quoted from kporter946286:why would you disable the option to empty the castle?
Also saves some wear on the much battered ball drop if it doesn't have to launch each of those balls every time the game ends.
Quoted from kporter946286:how do you lock the balls the next game if they are already in there?
It's smart enough to know when it's full, and if you put a 3rd ball up there for Castle Lock 1, it'll drop one out into the shooter lane rather than from the trough.
Quoted from rudygulp42:And to add a bit more, I have had two four ball multiballs canceled after only 3 have drained, which is more reason to suspect the trough switches.
Also, like the ball saver, this just happens sometimes. If it happens too often, you definitely need to check the trough switches, and make sure the back flow gate (or whatever) is installed in the trough.
Quoted from achtungboyy:I am having an issue with my BSD. When I get Mist Multiball when the ball goes from right to left, the ball will end as soon as lose one ball leaving the other one to just drain. It does not happen when the ball is traveling from left to right. Does anyone know what this can be? I have checked the optos and switches and everything checks out. Very frustrating issue.
Have you run through the magnet test thoroughly? Let it run several times and watch the status on the dmd to make sure everything is registering properly. Seems like an opto problem.
Could also be a trough switch problem. lots of recent examples in this thread.
Quoted from Senegal927:I thought BSD had a regular DMD but there was a red film in front of it.
Anyway you could try pinbits.
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=62
That's correct.
So I've got a Laseriffic undercab lighting kit that I want to connect to this thing. I think it was designed for a Stern, but shouldn't be that bad to make it work. I need an 18V power source, then would use the flash lamps for the signals to the different colors. Anybody know where I can get 18V or if using the 20V(?) from the flasher circuit would be ok?
Quoted from NPO:My understanding is that plastic keeps the ball from going too airborne and ricocheting backwards back down the ramp.
I am a bit confused here. When you say "posts in your pic" - I assume you mean the last picture in my post that was originally Pinster68's? Are there only 3 posts that hold the coffin up?
I noted that my hard plastic coffin ramp is missing anchoring screws - look like 8-32 screws. If so, I am sure that along with missing the clear plastic are two of my problems.
But, I really want to make sure I understand this: how many circular posts hold up the coffin ramp - the hard plastic coffin ramp? I just have a bad feeling someone swapped them for whatever reason. My ball will get nearly to the roll-over switch on the hard coffin ramp and STILL roll backwards. I can't help but believe that someone put the circular posts back in and totally put them in the wrong orientation. I want to go in and fix this if they are in the wrong order.
Yes about the pastiche and picture reference. There are 6 posts holding the coffin, a pair of each of the sizes in that pic.
There are 3 posts holding the ramp itself, and they may or may not be of different sizes. Hopefully there are some shop pics to help identify those.
Quoted from NPO:Anyone have any idea as to why Castle Lock not only loads a new ball into the shooter lane, but then also unlocks the Castle Locked ball as well? Thankfully, once I let one of the balls drain, there is no pre-mature end to that ball; however, it is annoying D: ...
Check all your castle lock optos and trough switches. Make sure the right number of balls are installed in the game (4).
Quoted from Lermods:I agree, 42 looks bad. It's cheap enough to replace 42. Or you could first swap the switches for 42 and 43 and see if it then shows that 43 is not registering, that would confirm the bad switch.
Or simply try to clean 42. Gunk can build up under the arm where the actual switch button is located.
Quoted from NPO:Hey guys, thank you so much for such thorough responses today! I just got home from work, and I plan on taking out the switches and cleaning them up a good bit. I wonder if I swapped switches #44 (for the 4th ball when you get triple stacked multiball going) and #42 if everything would behave (except during triple stacked multiball of course). I'll start doing some diagnostics later tonight.
We have some friends coming over for a possible pinball party tonight, so if I don't get to it tonight, I'll get some updates going this weekend. My clear plastics for the coffin ramp and CT LEDs should be coming in tomorrow. Prototype slingshot plastics are coming from Europse - prolly later in the week...!!
Actually, having the 4th be 'broken' would probably only effect reloading the MIST ball. triple stack would be fine because all of them would be open. It's having all 4 in the trough that would be the problem point. I bet it would probably still be better than where you're at now.
Quoted from NPO:I am looking at ordering some things from Marco soon, and I want to get all new trough switches - just in case. So I looked up the part #: 5647-00957-00 for trough switch 2, 3, and 4...and #5647-12693-08 for trough switch 1.
Hmm, those don't look right, but I don't remember what my switches look like. Some microswitches like that do have removable arms, and its easy to tell which ones (your second link).
Quoted from kporter946286:Okay my turn for help.
honestly, I can't quite follow. post your pics first? show me yours and I'll show you mine?
Quoted from NPO:So I got some parts in today!!!
Got this from Classic Arcade today:
Where'd you get the target decals? Been looking for a cheap place to get those.
Quoted from NPO:Then when going into attract mode, the game would not pop a ball into the shooter lane, lift the ramp, and deposit the ball into the right gate area (transmitter side of the game).
If the game knows the magnet test is failing, it assumes the Mist function is not working and will not load a ball. When you shoot the hole to start what should be the Mist ball traveling over the playfield, it will simply serve a ball from the trough into play and give you an automatic Mist multiball. The game (programmer) is smarter than you think!
Also @NewPinOwner - is that a plain green launch button you have? Is your machine by chance a German re-import? That's the same launch button I had on mine, where as they typically have the red "Launch Ball" button. I figured it was just replaced some time down the road, but now I wonder.
Quoted from NPO:Yep, I definitely knew I was "going against the grain" on that one. This diverter was so gummed up, it would stick down and stay down. It couldn't even try to come back up. It was VERY rough. I was hesitant even telling anyone I used oil, but it was a very small amount, and it was NOT WD-40. That junk will give you hell fast. 3-in-1 oil is much more viscous, and I wiped off as much of the excess as I possibly could.
This BSD was definitely....well....it deserves some much overdue loving, and I am more than happy to do it!
Got to get a good picture of the LEDs all on soon.
Are you planning to give it a full cleaning soon then? That should be all it needs. I know some of these mechs are not easy to get to...
Quoted from skywelker:I no longer have BSD, but I do remember that if you follow the instruction manuals routing for rubber it often rubs on the diverter arm making it unreliable. I saw it in a post here somewhere, could be something to look out for as well. You can make a slight modification in how the rubber is installed and no more problems. The trouble is that often you don't realize it's a problem until all the ramps and coffin are back in place
You're right, I totally forgot about that rubber effecting the diverter arm. You have to just route the rubber around a different post or something. It was easy enough that I figured that out on my own.
Alright guys, finally got my LND to light up properly! Here's a brief tutorial. I got an led strip from mezel (can get about anywhere) and an old 555 led. I pulled the old led apart so I could reuse the housing, fed the wires on the led strip through the housing and folded them over like the led leads were. Then hot glued it in.
Plug that into one of the sockets, stick the strip on:
And voila!
Quoted from Chet:Game play question? When i get both coffin and castle multiball both going and shoot a ball up the left ramp, it enters the Castle look ramp and remains locked, then if i drain out of multi-ball, the game still keeps the Blue Jackpot light lit at the scoop and will release the ball in the castle lock to the shooter and autoplunge it into play, it being the only ball in play. Is this normal behavior.
Yes, and it really only applies to Castle Multiball. Shooting the left ramp is what enables the jackpot (shooting it twice will lock two balls for a double jackpot). This is a timed jackpot. If you get it, or don't get it before time runs out, the ball is unlocked and put back into play. That locked ball is still considered in play. If you lock two for a double, then drain the third, you'll still be in multiball.
Quoted from NPO:Even though it's been answered, if you want to see your question of the gameplay in action, watch from 22:00 to about 22:50. Does exactly what it sounds like you asked:
And then watch the whole thing so you can feel like the worst pinball player to ever touch a machine.
Quoted from Chet:The casual player will not control the ball by trapping up balls on the flippers and flailing means a very fast game in BSD. The reduced flipper gap might make the game a little friendlier. The BSD game i have came with the original lightning flippers.
I agree. Go ahead and swap them out to make it more fun for the customers. It'll still be brutal enough anyway.
Quoted from TomGWI:Wish someone made the left gate for this game.
Agreed. I made several attempts at making my own. Got a pretty good one, then lucked into a true replacement. You can make your own, just may take a few tries.
I had a thread on here a while ago about it. Search it out, or I can try to give you a hand.
Quoted from Troutfarm:cross pollenating in here.. she is not cheap, but she is a beauty.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/clearcoated-chrome-ledd-bram-stokers-dracula-4k#post-1836779
Go back a page and do my LND mod if you really want to make it look pretty.
Yeah, above. You may be able to get the castle off without completely removing the ramp. I'm pretty sure that's all you need. You also probably only need to move the receiver.
Edit: then again, maybe you'll get lucky and they're plugged into the board individually, but I doubt it.
NewPin: sound of coils are normal. They are different mechanisms. Make sure your left gate isn't magnetic! Especially if it's silver in color. It was originally brass colored. Make sure the bracket is mounted above the plastic as well. I have pics and a vid around here somewhere.
Off-Kilter: the right side of that ramp did not come with a protector. It shouldn't really need one because of the post in front of it. Hopefully you can make one from Marco work for you.
Quoted from Off-Kilter:I just got one of the dracula flyers off ebay and it shows a metal ramp guide on the right side of the left ramp, I wish I could get one of those somehow. It looks like some MacGyvering will be needed.
My apologies. You're right, and mine does actually have one. Looks like part number: 01-11189-R "Ramp Protector Brkt."
Edit: aka - "guard-brkt ramp right" - probably still going to be very difficult to find unless you know someone parting one out.
Quoted from Axl:Where can I get the coffin ramp thingy?
50% of the time the ball won't go up...
I assume you're talking about the clear plastic that is supposed to cover the ramp. You can buy a full set of replacement plastics from Bryan Kelly or PPS, you can try to make your own, or you can beg plead and offer to pay the guy who made a couple for other members a couple pages back in this thread.
Quoted from NPO:More easy installs - 4 new pinballs and PinballCard.com's custom apron cards.
Picture 068.jpg 205 KB
Jumping back to these - I never realized how wrong the original instruction cards were! That's where Aurium (?) is getting his text from, which makes sense, until you realize they're wrong. FWIW, JP also has incorrect instructions on the original cards.
Quoted from Axl:This last picture explains better what i ment with the coffin ramp.
Congrats on your pickup!
This is the picture you want to show for your Coffin Ramp:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/35#post-1777536
Post a pic of your problem. Your coffin ramp is clear, and when it's up (the lock light is on), the flap can get in a way a bit to see the lit insert. That's not unique to yours, but if all the cross lights are lit, then you know the coffin is open anyway.
Edit: I'm guessing you won't be able to find a new lift ramp easily.
Quoted from joe2012:well I finally decided to fix up the coffin. I added alittle more black. came out good. joe
Very cool!! So you did the stone then just some touches of black on top for effect? Looks great!
Quoted from Troutfarm:My BSD started having some issues today. It is doing some crazy stuff where it will not load the mist ball and start launching ball after ball into play. After one of these episodes it will play fine for a game then do it again. I was intermittently getting a "magnet load error" but the optos all seem to be functioning and all the switches seem to be working. thoughts?
When starting a game it will launch two balls instead of one the first time? Does the lift ramp work at all? Have you run through magnet test?
Quoted from Troutfarm:Games seem to start fine.. I am pretty sure things don't get strange till after mist ball does it's thing.
Ya, lift ramp works, but when it does it's freak out it does not load the mist ball until it launches all the balls an eventually ends the ball
It runs through the magnet test fine.
Sounds like a trough switch is sticking, or maybe your shooter lane switch.
Quoted from NPO:Well, I played about 6-7 games tonight, and finally I got to thoroughly enjoy BSD with only one hiccup - the left gate for mist multiball doesn't go up enough for the ball to enter the left holding cell if you miss it passing across the PF.
I have a brand new spring, and that didn't help anything. It seems as if the spring needs to be shorter as it is not lifting the left gate highly enough. We'll get to that soon enough...
It was nice to finally play and have all the multiballs behaving as they should. Took a good 1.5 months to get to this point with only getting to work on it a day here and there each week, but we're nearly home free!
Such an adrenaline rush of a game.
Make sure the bracket is installed on top of the plastic. Make sure the gate has not become magnetized. It should NOT stick to a magnet. If the wire gate is not original, bend the arm forward a hair rather than deforming the spring.
The ball should just barely make it, to the point where the ball actually pushes the gate up as it goes underneath. It should definitely be on top of the plastic. If its that close i don't see how that would make it worse.
Quoted from MapleSyrup:Is that true?? Why does everybody swear by the lightenings on this machine then? Just curious. I don't have mine yet. I would think that a notoriously difficult game doesn't need to made MORE difficult, unless the aim is to collect more quarters.
I fell in love with this machine by playing it at Modern Pinball NYC, and TPF. One had regular flippers, and one had lightening. I didn't notice a huge difficulty difference. It's interesting to hear that the game was intended to have regular flippers. I was under the impression that the lightening bats were the original on this machine.
It is true. The game is known for being difficult, partly because of the lighting flippers, so people don't want to make it easier. Other people, like MXV would rather have it as the designer intended. To each his own.
Edit: lightning flippers were designed specifically for eating more quarters.
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:So I figured out the intermittent ball plunge sound. I took the apron off and watched what was going on in the ball trough/shooter lane. So it turns out the solenoid that launches the ball is sticking after the ball launches which continues to hold the shooter lane switch down. The machine doesn't know the ball has launched and so the sound clip never triggers. Do you know what would cause it to stay out and not retract?
Try cleaning it first. Replace the sleeve if it looks nasty. Make sure all the brackets are tight.
Quoted from movingpictures:Trying to get my BSD back in form, any help is appreciated.
I am having a couple issues related to the castle optos.
Ramp shots or secret passages are randomly triggering when the ramp is not hit.
This leads to extra points or bats starting on its own.
Also, the castle release post only works when 2 balls are in the castle lock.
If only one is there, the post drops and pops back up too quickly to allow the ball to release.
Are these issues related?
After some digging, it looks like the castle opto 2 was replaced at some point without a shielded piece.
In switch test, everything works as it should.
The castle optos have been working fine for about a year and have just recently started acting up.
I have attached some photos so you can see what I'm talking about:
Sounds like opto 1 is starting to flake out. Put it in switch test mode and start wiggling both the emitter and receiver around to see if you can get the switch to trigger. Chances are the leg of the diode has broken and is making intermittent contact due to vibration. You can also use your cell phone camera to see the light coming out of the emitter and if that goes on/off then you know it's bad.
Quoted from movingpictures:Have a look at this - what a strange piece in the reset plate assembly !
A penny?! Yeah, I think that whole assembly is due for a rebuild when you see things like that. Get a new spring while you're at it.
Quoted from movingpictures:Where do you see a penny? That looks like a regular old fashioned house key.
Actually not all that much different than the pic in the manual (#8) ... hehehe
LOL, I didn't see the part sticking through the back. hilarious.
Quoted from aveamike:It's 40 pages!
Topic search at the top of the page allows you to search within the thread so we don't make it 80 pages by reposting all the info again.
Looks like it should be two of each. http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/3072/Williams_1993_Bram_Stoker_s_Dracula_Parts_List.txt
Quoted from bigd1979:Anyone ? I found everything but the plastic behind the grave marker .someone with a nice one wanna take some pics of it off ? Maybe I can make one im not worried about thee sticker on it . Im sure oalot people could use this piece
Many people who need it probably picked up Bryan Kelly's set.
Quoted from bigd1979:His set don't come with this part actually or I would just order a whole set .
I'm sorry, I completely misread your post. If Glarrownage can't get you pics, I'll pull mine out for you.
Quoted from Glarrownage:Does anyone else have a straight guide on the left side of this ramp or is it just me?
I suspect just you.
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:Can someone run a sound/music test and see how many play on their machine?
I'll try to remember to do this tonight and report back.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I have two BSD's here and one has the guide with the finger and the other has the straight guide. The finger is there to prevent ball traps. On the one with the straight guide, there should be a couple of plastic posts mounted to the ramp to do the same thing as the finger.
Is this a wood vs metal side rail thing?
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:Hey everybody, working out some possible sound issues with my BSD. When I run a sound/music test I only have 11 clips that play. Some are music and some are speech. I know there are WAY more than 11 sound clips in the game. Is this correct amount for the test? Can someone run a sound/music test and see how many play on their machine? Thanks as always!!
Just the eleven
Quoted from Glarrownage:Funny you mention it. I have the metal ones and the next problem I have to figure out is how to fix the damage on the side rail. I'm thinking maybe black powder coat on the whole thing?
there goes the wood/metal rail thing coinciding with the straight/triangle guard. I have metal rails and a triangle guard.
I have the same scratch in my metal rail, so I'll be interested to see how you fix it.
Quoted from NPO:So, here is video documentation of the left gate problem I was having. Two videos - first is an explanation of the problem. Second is the fix applied and demonstration of the mist ball behaving.
Gotta be careful shortening the spring. If it's too short, the gate won't sit low enough at rest and will get in the way of the ball too much. Since it's not available anymore, you want to protect it (and of course you don't want it interfering with the ball when it shouldn't be).
Quoted from Solder_Splash:Thanks for the quick reply. Hopefully the proper coil will address the issue.
BTW I stacked all 3 multiballs last night for the first time.
What a blast!!
No problem. Nice job. It's such a great feeling.
Quoted from MikeTangoIndia:Nice job! I still have no ever achieved castle multi ball lol. I must really suck haha. I have started the other two multiball a but castle seems to be the most challenging!
It definitely is. Here's some tips. When you get your first left ramp award (probably at 6 ramps), make sure the coffin is already open. If it is, you'll get a Castle Lock lit for free, though it is timed. It's often said to stay away from the center target bank, and that's good advice. However, you'll often need just the center target to light the lock. A backhand from the right flipper on that is worth the risk to get you over the hump.
This is a couple years old, so hopefully he's still making them. But all I could think was "Holy sh.. Those are awesome!"
Quoted from BLACK_ROSE:Me either ,, Hmm
gotta turn off the match sequence, B_R.
Quoted from pbu:Joined the club a couple of weeks ago, but just now getting around to posting. Couple of questions somebody can hopefully help me with:
The ball gets stuck at the very end of the subway leading to the bottom left popper. Any good way to adjust it so this doesn't happen?
Starting the machine up cold, I get a magnet unload error because the long throw opto acts like something is blocking it. If I put I go into the operators menu and wait around 60 seconds then exit, everything works fine. Any ideas?
Make sure the end of the subway is ABOVE the bracket where the ball will fall into. If it's below, it will catch on the bracket and not roll over the lip.
Make sure the left mist gate is mounted ABOVE the plastics as that can get in the way of the opto. Go into switch test and open/close the gate to make sure it's not in the way when it's closed.
Quoted from Marv:Does anyone have the settings for Drac to set it to 50p per play and 3 games for a £1 please?
Check the manual on ipdb
Quoted from JWV:At my BSD the "point of no return" for the Coffin ramp is at the yellow arrow, is this where it should be?
I read somewhere that getting around the first corner should be enough to get through the ramp. That would mean the ramp should be raised at the right side..
Mine is about the same, maybe not quite as far. Are you sure you have the ramp/coffin posts installed correctly? They are 3 different sizes, all very close to each other. what kind of gap between the end of the lift ramp and entrance of the plastic ramp do you have?
Quoted from Marv:I have the manual, its set for 4 games for a £1.
page 1-36 footnote 2 says to press enter to change that setting.
Quoted from Iaintnobodydork:I'm hoping you guys can confirm this for me. I have recently noticed on 3 different BSD's that about 70% of the time when you have your right hand flipper up, and if the trough coil fires to load a ball in the shooter lane, that flipper will go dead for a second. I will be using mine in a tournament soon and I want to be sure that this is a normal glitch in the software that we just have to live with. Thanks, Charlie
That doesn't sound right. Is your EOS switch adjusted properly?
Quoted from Iaintnobodydork:Yes everthing is working properly. Please check your machine before picking mine apart.
If you knew everything was working properly, you wouldn't have asked the question. I'm just trying to help.
My first thought was a drained Mist ball which gets reloaded. I know I've held the flipper during that period and it has never happened. You weren't specific about when it happens, so don't assume I'm trying to insult you.
Quoted from neurokinetik:Just when I thought I knew all of the rules to BSD in and out, I stumbled across something last night that I'd not seen before. Had my best game ever going, managed to stack all three multiballs on ball 3. While that was going on, I started and finished rats (pretty quickly, as expected since I still had four balls in play).
Now, the puzzling part. My rats bonus was a little over 112M. I would have expected it to be 3x the normal total, which would have put it more like 36M. I'm pretty sure this was the first and only time I started rats in the game. I've done bats before with the stack, and it does double and triple like expected. So why that total for rats?
Someone needs to do the math on that. Maybe it's tripling the total for each switch rather than the total. I'd always seen that, but never thought about it. Bug?
Quoted from neverahighscore:Congrats-Nice looking game! Like your scorecards. Did you make them or find them somewhere. Thanks-Joe
I think you can get them from pinball rebel.
Quoted from Jaybird815:Yeah I didn't want to bend anything, the opto housing is a PITA to
get at though.
Don't bend the opto housing, bend the metal ball guide IF the ball isn't properly sitting in front of the opto.
Quoted from doublestack:On my left inlane I have a touch of flipper chatter, where the rubber is slightly higher than the lane. I have measured both sides with a caliper and both are exactly the same. I have taken the lane off and on and it will not stay where it needs to. There just isn't much play in the holes to move the lane at all. Wondered if any of you have had this issue and what your fix was. I've never not been able to move the hardware to fix this so I'm curious as to what solutions you all have..
Pictures?
Quoted from ZenTron:I don't think my skillshot is working properly but if someone can answer these questions, that would be helpful:
1) Should the top left drop target be down prior to plunging the ball or does hitting that drop target actually give the skill shot award?
2) Is there a setting to change the skillshot that i might of overlooked?
thanks
Drop should be up, hitting it should award the skills hot.
No settings I know of.
Quoted from ZenTron:thanks for the quick replies!
I'll dig into it this evening when I get home, but the drop target is up and it drops but no skill shot is registered. The skill shot gets registered when ball goes over a rollover switch above pops.
Anything suggestions on wear I should look etc.. is appreciated. I assume it could be a loose wire possibly..
Is the target being reset immediately after it's hit? That sounds like the target switch isn't closing. The target should always immediately reset unless you have VIDEO spelled out. Once you shoot behind the target for video mode, it again resets.
Quoted from Erik:So my shooter launches the ball up the ramp and it jumps into the little clear plastic cover at the top of the launch ramp about half the time. That kills the momentum and it either dribbles into the lanes or never makes the lanes. Suggestions?
Do you have the small clear square plastic that sits atop the shooter lane to prevent airballs?
Quoted from Jaybird815:Does anyone know where I can find target decals? Pinball decals has them for $30, was wondering if anywhere else has a set.
Thanks
Hope you can find some. I couldn't.
Quoted from Erik:Hard to tell, but I think so!
I do, and that's part of the problem! The ball is jumping at the top of the ramp and clipping the back edge of the plastic, which slows it down
Whoops. Missed that. How does your ramp flap look? Is it dented?
Is the plastic installed backwards? (mine was when I got it.) The overhang should be in front.
Quoted from Jaybird815:It is a pretty awesome game, stacked 3 multiballs for the first time last night!
I got so excited the first time I got there I tilted out from flipping too hard. I was devastated.
Quoted from mjfisher:Brilliant - mine's been backwards all this time and I never realised. Thanks for that.
Quoted from JWV:Mine too.. (for a long time, there are some scratches on it caused by the metal of the castle ramp)
Lots of useful stuff is posted here once in a while
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:ya, wrong tip. also, I just learned I am missing that plastic piece..ug. lol
Boy, what was it about this plastic?
Quoted from doublestack:Guys and Gals I need your help!
I have a glitch that is driving me nuts. I'll try my best to explain it.....It is very specific but this is now the third time its happened, so its real
Ok so I was just in coffin and mist multibal. I had hit multiple loops and castle lock was lit. As I slowly drain balls, I am left with one. This is on ball 3 and has always happened on ball 3. Anyways I hit my castle lock ramp with the last ball and it goes to the castle lock, and BOOM game thinks I drained the ball. Game over-I'm pissed. This is driving me nuts. Game has no errors and the boards are squeaky clean.
Now there is one other error that comes to mind every so often. I'll lock a ball in the castle and sometimes once it drops one out to the lane it automaticly give me a skill shot award...very odd. I cant really think how the two are related, although both involve the castle. All the castle optos work fine in my switch test and I never have switch errors. Any advice will help. My last drac was haunted....no joke..this one appears is not far off
edit: Also I have tried to recreate this with the glass off, It seems to happen when mist is trying to reload
Thanks!!!
Check all your mist optos very carefully. The game is thinking it has all of the balls accounted for when it doesn't. The skill shot triggering is a clue that there's a switch somewhere closing when it shouldn't be.
Edit: try going into switch test and bang around on everything to see if you can make a switch trigger.
Quoted from Jaybird815:Man aobrien5 you have a really clean shooter lane!
I showed you mine, you show me yours!
Quoted from doublestack:Ok, I'm still stumped so far. Magnet test works perfect. All my switches work. The long throw optic was what i thought was possibly the culprit, but its working as it should. I have recreated the problem a few times, but i cannot consistently. It seems to get confused when its loading mist and all the balls are draining from a multiball. One time when I got it to think a ball drained, castle was not locked and the game came back as soon as another playfield switch was hit and then mist loaded. Ugh, this game.... I tell ya
Check your castle Optos, the shooter lane switch and the trough switches.
Quoted from n0s4atu:Well, rebuilt my flippers and they're working much better. So much better in fact I decided to not fix the hack job yet since I didn't have the time to make sure I did it right. Finally put up a decent score too.
And of course it was good while it lasted, we had a kid over who didn't know what a pinball machine was pretty much and was pretty much just pounding the flippers constantly. Then the game stopped working properly and reports a ball missing. The trough isn't working or registering anything and the launch button is not lit or responding.
Now, I had the flippers rebuilt for a bit and logged at least 20 games on it to "test" it. This kid plays less than a game and it's jacked up.
Is there a fuse that could have possibly gone? Any ideas? Thanks as always for the help.
Hm... Check the switch matrix for correlation.
Quoted from neurokinetik:That part might just be one of the normal BSD annoyances. Going into video mode when it isn't supposed to (i.e. when a multiball is running) is a known bug in the game.
Yeah, I think video mode simply starts before multiball is detected. If you can get yourself killed before the mist ball drains, it will put you into multiball.
Quoted from doublestack:Thanks, Neuro. I know BSD has some interesting software sometimes. Also does anyone know if its the latest rom that has the fix for for losing your bats score after a double danger on ball 3? I had that come up, I've got a rottendog mpu board with rom L-1 in it.
L1 ROM is the only official one, and the warning bug is all over. Not just bats on ball three. If you get any warning on draining any ball that can happen. The only ROM currently available to fix it is the tournament ROM that papa uses. That also kneecaps the mystery reward (always 500k), so not great for home use.
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:I am also trying to figure out why the left ball gate coil doesn't open before the magnet begins to move and pull the ball, resulting in the ball being stuck in the left gate. I'm assuming this is because of the left magnet motor switch arm adjustment (lots of previous bends and hacks everywhere on every switch).
If the ball is in the left pocket, the coil does NOT open the gate when moving the ball from left to right. The only time it opens is at the last second when the ball is going from right to left. The left gate should open freely at all times (with your finger), because it's just being held by a spring.
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:so the only driver for pulling the ball from the left gate is the magnet? I could have sworn the left gate coil opens the gate a second after the motor and magnet start to operate. I will be spending the rest of the night trying to resolve this. thanks aobrien.
Actually, I'm a damn liar.
at about 2:10.
It is supposed to open, but it's still just the magnet that takes it out and I'd be surprised if the gate held it in. Does the magnet enable and the motor run? Is the gate binding? It should move freely with your finger.
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:ya, new motor for magnet, rebuilt opto boards, replaced all optos (transceiver and recievers) everywhere that needed. all work in 'magnet' test, except the ball doesn't get pulled out from left gate (magnet begins to pull ball out of left gate, but not past it, then the left get coil triggers the gate but too late). like I said, I have this 'custom' copper left gate that is problematic (not constructed correctly). also, the left motor switch is super bent toward the center of pf, I think i'll bend it back. need to figure out why the ball doesn't always stage in the right mist area as well (when loaded from shooter lane ball sometimes rests against the entry gate and the far right side of the ball guide). like I said, so many fine adjustments I figure to get things working. thanks for taking your time to assist a fellow pinhead.
Yeah, if the left motor switch isn't releasing soon enough, that's probably what's keeping the gate from opening on time.
Can you get the long opto to trigger in switch test with a ball in the right gate? Bang on PF, rattle things around, etc. Also, get out your cell phone camera and see if you can see the opto beam around the ball where it sits in the right pocket.
Quoted from Ballsofsteel:adjusted the left magnet motor switch, that fixed the left gate release issue. After gameplay last night, I had a friend watch the staged ball in the right gate (as I was having random ball plunge into the stage area resulting in 2 balls in right mist gate). it seems that when i'd nudge the machine during gameplay, the single ball would move and get hung up between the entry gate and the far right side of the ball guide, resulting in the long opto not being closed. still making adjustments to get this resolved.
Nudging is cheating!
Just kidding. Sounds like you're almost there!
Quoted from MMP:I'm very excited to finally join this club! BSD in the house ready for playtesting then a bit of Treasure Cove love.
Does anyone have a list with number of each bulb type needed for a full LED conversion?
you should be able to find it on some of the sites that sell the kits. if not, I have one around here somewhere.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:555's in the backbox, pops and inserts should be 47's in the GI. Should be able to get a quick count if you have the machine on site. The manual should also have them listed. I can check in a bit.
There are at least a couple 555's in the GI (under the left ramp/in the coffin).
Quoted from Drano:Thanks!
Hope I can get it done.
Again, if amyone can recommend a good sculptor I'd love to work with someone to get this off the ground. I can probably pull something off myself if I had to, but would like it done right.
BackAlleyMatt
Quoted from n0s4atu:Ok, this is pretty much what I was thinking. Maybe his rationale is that BSD is on average a $2500 game and maybe people wouldn't spend $1000 on a perfect playfield? I guess he hasn't seen what they go for when they do pop up or how quickly?
I just can't imagine that considering how valuable CC is that there are many people with one that has a trashed playfield to begin with.
Personally, I'd buy another game before a playfield for that kind of money. And my pf is no peach either.
Quoted from n0s4atu:And maybe that's what Mirco figures most people would do too. My game looks good and plays great (when something doesn't stop working), but a new playfield would sure look pretty in it and I'd love to see what it played like clear coated and smooth as glass.
Yeah, I don't at all disagree, I just don't have the funds to make that happen, so I'd rather have another game rather than beautify my existing ones. Believe me. I wish I could!
Quoted from Drano:Thanks.
Already tried Matt.
Although he seemed very positive about helping me out with this coffin mod (and another small thing I needed for a custom pin project) I've only had one reply from him and he seems really tied up.
Yeah, I'm sure he's busy (and will get more busy for Hobbit production). I know he's not on pinside all the time. For whatever that's worth.
Quoted from MMP:My BSD didn't look terribly dirty, but I started cleaning it up last weekend. I don't really want to put a cliffy on the rats hole. Has anyone used a bit of mylar for this area? Not sure if that would just end up looking bad, or not enough protection.
I could also use a set of sling plastics if anyone has a spare set to sell. Used, not broken would be fine too.
My rat hole has a factory mylar spot on the kick out. Doesn't help save the hole itself. Mine was pretty good but I cliffy'ed it anyway. Doesn't hurt the shot at all.
Quoted from goatdan:Yay! I joined the club a while ago, but just pulled it out recently to get it working. I have the crappy playfield and am going to get it cleared, but luckily I have such a nice example it's still currently in perfect shape.
Question - for Mist Multiball, my game loses the ball about halfway across. From what I can tell, this is the opto board. I found the replacement board for it, but it seems that it is only made in Australia - is that right? Is it worth it? I generally much prefer replacing old stuff with new stuff than repairing it, but like to make sure they are decent first.
The homepin board? Search the thread and you'll see several people raving about it in here.
Quoted from goatdan:Yup, that one.
Is it only sold from Australia, or do any US sellers carry it? I'm in no rush, just curious, and I couldn't find a US seller in my searching.
Pretty sure they're the only ones that sell it.
Quoted from MMP:I am guessing the previous person to shop this just swapped out the GI molex connectors with the coffin VUK.
Got my game back together and had an issue with the right opto not working for mist. Apparently the two GI bulbs next to the opto need to remain incandescent, because it worked right after switching them out.
Type of LED must matter, I haven't had a problem with mine, but it's definitely a problem for some people.
Quoted from MMP:Other issue I have (no more time now, will have to troubleshoot later) is castle lock sometimes releases the ball when it should be held. Then 2 balls end up in the shooter lane. Maybe a problem with the top wireform switch needing adjustment?
Check your optos. Sounds like one of those may be staying closed or something.
Quoted from Tyson1868:Are the ramp flaps specific to BSD? I could not find the game on the pinbits site.
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=460
Quoted from Delta9:heres my high score hope i dont get bored to quick i kicked his ass last night
put the glass back on 
Quoted from MMP:I stripped my coin door and gave all the plastic pieces a good soak in simple green. It makes me cringe every time my little ones stick their fingers in the return slots, so I also lined the bottom of those with mylar.
Good idea, now you just need to add these:
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